.dt Luncheons, by Mary Arnold-A Project Gutenberg eBook
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LUNCHEONS
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LUNCHEONS
A COOK’S PICTURE BOOK
A SUPPLEMENT TO THE
CENTURY COOK BOOK
BY
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[Illustration: Mary Arnold]
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AUTHOR OF THE CENTURY COOK BOOK
ILLUSTRATED WITH OVER
TWO HUNDRED PHOTOGRAPHS
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[Illustration: Publisher’s Logo]
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NEW YORK
THE CENTURY CO.
1902
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Copyright, 1902, by
The Century Co.
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Published October, 1902
THE DEVINNE PRESS
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THE BOOK
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This book is intended as a supplement to the “Century
Cook Book,” hence no general rules for cooking are given.
It is a book of illustrated receipts, a cook’s picture-book,
intended to be very useful in the way of suggestion. It is
arranged so that housekeepers may more readily make up a
menu, often a difficult task, or may easily find new dishes
to vary the routine of the daily fare.
Instead of various menus, which are impracticable because
they seldom suit the convenience of the moment, lists
of dishes are given which can be quickly read over and those
suitable for the occasion selected. These lists are placed at
the heads of the sections, each section representing a single
course, and each list comprising a number of dishes, any one
of which is suitable for that course.
The receipts will meet the requirements of luncheons, but
the majority of them are equally appropriate for dinner.
Attention has been given to the garnishing and manner of
dishing, in order to make the dishes pleasing to the sight; for
pretty dishes are attractive and recommend themselves, while
carelessly served ones are sometimes refused on account of
their appearance.
The illustrated dishes, though apparently elaborate, are
in fact quite simple, the pastry-bag and tube, the use of
which is easily acquired, being the means employed to decorate
many of them.
The illustrations will serve as suggestions, and the taste of
the cook will lead her to use such other combinations as are
suited to her convenience.
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CONTENTS
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#CHAPTER I:ch01#
(Pages 1-34)
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Luncheons |Fontage Cups
Garnishing and Dishing |Different Ways of Preparing Butter
The Pastry-bag |Measures and Terms
Order of Courses |
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#CHAPTER II:ch02#
(Pages 35-42)
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|Fruits
First Course |Oyster and Clam Cocktails
|Oysters and Clams on the Half Shell
|Canapés
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#CHAPTER III:ch03#
(Pages 43-48)
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Second Course |Soups
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#CHAPTER IV:ch04#
(Pages 49-58)
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Third Course |Eggs
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#CHAPTER V:ch05#
(Pages 59-68)
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Fourth Course |Shell-fish\_\_\_Lobsters\_\_\_Fish
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#CHAPTER VI:ch06#
(Pages 69-82)
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Fifth or Seventh Course |Entrées
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#CHAPTER VII:ch07#
(Pages 83-106)
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|Meats
Sixth Course |Vegetables and Cereals used as Vegetables
|Chicken
|Sauces for Meats\_\_\_Sweet Sauces
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#CHAPTER VIII:ch08#
(Pages 107-111)
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Seventh Course |Frozen Punches\_\_\_Fruits\_\_\_Cheese Dishes
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#CHAPTER IX:ch09#
(Pages 113-131)
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Eighth Course |Game\_\_\_Salads\_\_\_Cold Service\_\_\_Cheese\
\_\_\_Salad Dressings
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#CHAPTER X:ch10#
(Pages 133-163)
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Ninth Course |Hot Desserts\_\_\_Cold Desserts\_\_\_Pies and Tarts
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#CHAPTER XI:ch11#
(Pages 165-171)
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Tenth Course |Ices
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#CHAPTER XII:ch12#
(Pages 173-176)
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Eleventh Course |Fruits
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#CHAPTER XIII:ch13#
(Pages 177-195)
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Loaf Cakes|Small Fancy Cakes|Icings
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#CHAPTER XIV:ch14#
(Pages 197-211)
Breads
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#INDEX:index#
(Pages 213-223)
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LUNCHEONS
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ERRATA[#]
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Page 20, line 16, for “gelatines” read “galantines.”
Illustration No. 10, 2, read “Purée Sieve”; 3, read “Fontage or Swedish\
timbale irons.”
Page 31, line 8, for “will rise and cover” read “will rise when put in the\
hot fat and cover.”
Page 47, last title, for “Creamed Soups” read “Cream Soups.”
Page 71, 4th line from bottom, for “usual” read “original.”
Page 71, 7th line from bottom, for “dilute it” read “diluted.”
Page 73, 2d line from bottom, for “flour” read “water.”
Page 91, 8th line from bottom, for “browned” read “brown.”
Page 119, for “Salads Nos. 6-7-8-9” read “Illustrations Nos. 94, 95, 96, 97.”
Page 135, line 3, for “and moisten” read “moistened.”
Page 143, 2d line from bottom, for “thick” read “whipped.”
Legend of illustration No. 134 read “Strawberry Charlotte No. 2.”
Legend of illustration No. 137 read “Chestnut Purée.”
Page 155, line 6, for “cupful” read “pound.”
Page 162, line 10, for “by placing” read “and.”
Page 168, 7th line from bottom, for “lemon” read “melon.”
Page 169, to receipt for Lemon Ice add, “1 quart of water.”
Page 170, line 4, for “cupful” read “quart.”
Page 175, after title, “Pineapple,” add “Illustration No. 158.”
Page 184, 5th line from bottom, for “icing” read “tracing.”
Page 189, 5th line from bottom, for “box with” read “box and serve with.”
Page 192, 9th line from bottom, for “coloring” read “covering.”
Page 199, 11th line from bottom, for “double its bulk” read “doubled in bulk.”
Page 201, 8th line from bottom, for “one quarter of an inch” read “one\
and a quarter inches.”
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Transcriber’s note: these Errata have been applied to this text. (2018-08-15)
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CHAPTER I||LUNCHEONS
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The midday meal, called luncheon, varies in character
from a very informal service, where the dishes
are placed on the table and the servants leave the
room, to one of equal elaboration and formality with
that of a dinner. As this meal is made to conform
to convenience, it is difficult to give general rules,
as rules are conventions of ceremony, and ceremony
is sometimes disregarded, as in the case where a
larger number of guests are received than the service
of the house admits of entertaining in other than
an informal manner.
Luncheon proper corresponds to what in foreign
countries is called the second breakfast, or déjeûner
à la fourchette, where people are seated at the table
and served as at dinner. The French breakfast hour,
however, is usually twelve o’clock, while luncheon
is an hour or more later.
The companyEntertaining at luncheon is as customary as dinner
giving, but ordinarily the company is composed of women alone, men as
a rule not being entertained at this hour, except on holidays or
special occasions.
Seating the guestsA card with the name of the guest
distinctly written on it designates the place at the table to be
occupied by that guest, and each one finds her place without being
otherwise directed, as the hostess is the
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last one to enter the dining-room. If, for any reason,
one lady has precedence over the others, she is
placed at the right of the hostess; otherwise the hostess
selects for that seat the one whom she wishes particularly
to compliment. If a stranger is being especially
entertained, the other guests having been
invited to meet her, she is given this seat of honor.
The hostess in this case presents her as a new acquaintance
to her friends, who afterward may call
upon and extend to her other courtesies.
InvitationsThe invitations for luncheon are the same in form
as for dinner; if the luncheon is a formal entertainment
they are usually written in the third person,
or conventionally expressed in the first person.
An informal note is written for informal occasions.
Under no circumstances should a verbal invitation
be given.
It is polite to answer an invitation within twelve
hours. People who are in the habit of entertaining
are seldom remiss in the courtesy of a prompt reply,
for they have probably experienced the inconvenience
of uncertainty, and the embarrassment of
having to fill places at the last minute, and so are
better able to understand the significance of this
social convention.
DressWomen wear street costumes or afternoon gowns;
they lay off their wraps, but do not remove their hats.
Men should wear afternoon dress.
The tableAt luncheon a table-cloth is not used if the table
is handsome enough to permit its omission, but often
leaves are put in which have not the same polish
as the main table and must be covered with a cloth.
The use of a cloth is, however, a matter of taste, not
of rule.
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The polished table requires care to keep it clean
and free from stains and scratches. It should be
very frequently rubbed hard with a soft cloth, and
occasionally a little kerosene or furniture polish
should be used; but what is particularly needed is
plenty of hard rubbing. A varnish polish is easily
defaced, especially by hot dishes, which leave white
marks that are difficult to eradicate. The table top
should have what is called hand polish. This can be
washed without injury, does not easily stain, heat
does not affect it, and with daily care it constantly
grows handsomer. It is better for young housekeepers
to start with a dull mahogany, or oak, than
with a shellacked table, which needs frequent
redressing.
MatsTo protect the table when no table-cloth is used,
mats are placed under the dishes. The plate mats,
either square or round, are seven to nine inches
across. Mats are sometimes lined with asbestos, felt,
or other thick material to protect the table better
from the heat of the plates. The mats, as a rule,
match the centerpiece, but this is not obligatory.
There is no limit to the variety of centerpieces and
mats. They range from crochet work and embroidered
linen to beautiful laces.
DecorationsExcept the mats, the decorations used are the same
as for the dinner-table, flowers being the chief and
always the most beautiful resource. The decorations
should be kept low in order not to obstruct the
view across the table and so make general conversation
impossible.
A large table is more imposing with high centerpieces,
and at buffet luncheons high decorations can
be indulged in. The cold dishes used on such occasions
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are susceptible of much garnishing, and are
made to form a part of the decoration.
Where a large number of guests are being entertained,
as at wedding breakfasts, or where the luncheon
is accessory to some other entertainment, the
guests are frequently seated at small tables placed
throughout the room. In this case, no ornamentation
is attempted other than a few flowers on each
table, as anything more would be an inconvenience.
LightingThe lighting of the table requires careful consideration.
Artificial light is not used unless necessary;
but a dark, gloomy table should always be
avoided, and if the room is dark candles should be
lighted. Sometimes half the guests face bright windows,
while the faces of those sitting with their
backs to the windows are in shadow. Shaded lights
in the chandelier will often remove this shadow; and,
if carefully managed, the gas-lights will not be disagreeably
noticeable. This, together with a careful
adjustment of the curtains, will often equalize the
light; but if a blinding glare cannot thus be overcome,
it is better to draw the shades and curtains
and light the candles. In city houses this is frequently
done.
Laying the tableThe table is laid as for dinner, except that bread-and-butter
plates are placed at the left of the dinner
plates, each bread-and-butter plate having a small
knife laid across it. These plates are small, and are
used for the breads and hors d’oeuvres.
The food and coursesAt luncheon the soup is served in cups, and, where
the guests are seated at the table, roasts are seldom
presented, the meats being served in the form of
chops, or individual portions; otherwise, the service
is the same as at dinner.
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At buffet luncheons large cold roasts are used, and
ordinarily not more than one or two hot dishes are
served, such as bouillon, creamed oysters, or croquettes.
Cold fish, cold joints, gelatines, and salads
make the substantial part of the luncheon. All the
dishes, including the ices, are placed on the buffet
table at once, and no order is observed in respect to
courses, each person making his own selection. On
these occasions the gentlemen serve the ladies, and
but little extra household service is needed.
Where the guests are seated at small tables the
service is the same as if all were seated at one table,
and a number of servants are required. There
should always be enough waiters to serve the meal
quickly. An hour and a half is the extreme limit
of time that guests should be kept at the table.
Seven or eight courses are all that should be presented,
and these should be served quickly, but without
apparent haste. The days of long feasting are
passed. People of to-day value their health and
time too much to sit for hours at a time at the table.
The meal should be over before there is any fatigue
or dullness; but on the word of Brillat-Savarin, an
accepted authority on gastronomic subjects, it is safe
to detain guests at the table for one hour. He says:
“La table est le seul endroit où l’on ne s’ennuie
jamais pendant la première heure.”
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GARNISHING AND DISHING MEATS
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One celebrated French chef says: “Il faut viser a
charmer les yeux des gourmet avant d’en satisfaire
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le goût”; and another, in giving advice to beginners,
says: “A cook should have that artistic feeling
which imparts to everything, great and small, that
harmony of style which captivates the eye.”
This necessity is well recognized by every good
cook, and such a one tries to give dishes the inviting
appearance justly demanded by epicures. It is not
necessary that the dish belong to the category which
in cooking parlance is termed “high class,” for the
simplest one comes under the same rule and is capable
of being raised to a higher rank by careful dishing
and tasteful garnishing. The greatest cooks are
renowned for such specialties.
It is said of Soyer, “for dishing up he was entitled
to celebrity”; and of Carême, “he excelled in everything
requiring perfect taste, and dealt in a new
and very effective manner with the ornamentation
of large cold dishes.”
There is nothing which so quickly indicates the
grade of the cook as the manner in which she serves
her dishes. One who has no pride in her work seldom
takes time for ornamentation, though garnishing is
the simplest part of her duty. When, however, attention
is given to this branch, even though the result
may not be perfect, it gives promise of better things,
and one may confidently predict for the cook who
thus shows desire to do well that she will attain a
higher degree of excellence in her profession. There
is no class of dishes, from breads to desserts, which
are not more appetizing when made attractive in appearance.
It has been said that “eyes do half the
eating,” and as no expense need be incurred in the
indulgence of tasteful arrangement of the dishes,
there seems to be no reason why the simplest table
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should not share with the most expensive one this
element of success. Care, taste, and ingenuity will
do much to remedy the lack of money, and may
change the standard of the table from coarseness to
refinement. Many suggestions for decorations may
be found in the show-windows of bakers, pastry-cooks,
fishmongers, and of delicatessen shops. Many
of the pieces displayed there may seem elaborate and
difficult to the novice, but they are, in reality, simple
enough when the use of materials is understood.
The word garnishing is used here in a broad interpretation
of the term, meaning the general ornamentation
of dishes, whether it be obtained by form,
color, dishing, or by dressing them with those articles
called garnishes.
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NO. 198. SODA BISCUITS CUT WITH FLUTED STAMP.
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[Illustration: NO. 198. SODA BISCUITS CUT WITH FLUTED STAMP.]
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For example, beginning with breads, embellishment
is accomplished by means of form and color.
The form is gained by molding and cutting; the
color, by glazing with egg or sugar. A universal
expedient, when short of bread, is the soda biscuit.
These biscuits, when cut in very small rounds of
uniform size, will tempt the scoffer of hot breads;
while large or small crusty rolls, all of exactly the
same size, and baked a golden color, will also make
him forget his prejudices and find excuse in the
delicious crust for eating them. But these same
biscuits carelessly cut or molded or baked would
offer him no excuse for inviting dyspepsia. Toast
looks more inviting when cut into strips or triangles,
or with the corners neatly cut off if served in whole
slices. Any little thing which indicates care on the
part of the cook recommends the dish to favor and
almost guarantees its excellence—on the principle
that straws show which way the wind blows.
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For soups, there is to be found, in any cook book,
a long list of garnishes which may be used. Certainly
a clear soup is more beautiful when a few
green peas or a few bits of celery increase its brilliancy;
a cream soup is greatly improved by a few
small croutons; and so on through the various classes
of dishes.
The garnishes for meat dishes are so various, it
may be said that their only limit is the ingenuity
and resources of the cook.
It should be remembered that dishes which are
served hot do not permit of as much garnishing as
cold ones. The first requisite in the former is heat,
and this must not be lost by time given to elaborate
garnishing. It does not, however, exclude them from
the privilege of being embellished; for if the garnishes
are prepared and ready at hand, it takes but
a minute to put them in place. Hot meat dishes can
also rely on other things to improve their appearance,
such as shapeliness and uniformity; therefore,
strict attention should be given to the cutting and
trimming of meats, to the molding of croquettes,
of meat-balls, or of anything served in pieces, and
also to the dishing of the same.
After meat is well cut, if a joint, it should be divested
of all points and irregularities, and of cartilage
which will interfere with the carving, and
then should be trimmed into a well-balanced and
symmetrical form, attention being given to the matter
of its standing squarely and solidly upon the
platter.
Chops and cutlets should be trimmed into uniform
size and shape. This can be done without
waste, as the trimmings have their uses. Careful
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dressing and trussing is essential for poultry, as the
appearance of an untrussed fowl is enough to destroy
the appetite and condemn the dinner. A fowl
should be pressed into a rounded and smooth surface
in order to dissociate the article served from the
thing of life.
Meat should be placed exactly in the center of the
platter, except in certain instances where studied
irregularity is given for special garnishing. To place
chops or cutlets neatly overlapping one another,
either in rows or in a circle, requires some dexterity,
perhaps, but this is acquired by a very little practice,
and such an arrangement not only helps to keep
the meats hot, but is in itself ornamental. The
platter should be in right proportion to the article
served upon it. A large joint on too small a platter
gives the same sense of unsuitableness that an outgrown
garment gives to a boy or a girl, and the carving
of this seemingly overgrown joint usually results
in accidents to the table-cloth. Again, too small a
platter affords no room for garnishing.
The color given meat in cooking may be called
its secondary garnish, space being the first. Care
should be taken, if it is roasted, that it be well
browned; if it is boiled, that it be white and clean-looking;
if it is fried, that it be not blackened, but
a clear lemon color. Poultry should have a golden
color that suggests crispness. It is difficult to make
the mediocre cook understand these points.
Larding also serves an ornamental purpose. Dry
meats, like veal, and oftentimes fowls, are improved
in flavor by being larded; and it should be so
done as to make it an ornamental feature. There is
no part in the preparation of dishes easier to perform
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than larding, and no novice need hesitate to
undertake it.
Hashes and minces can, with very little trouble,
be made attractive in appearance as well as in taste.
Hash pressed into a mold, giving it a ring or a dome
shape, then masked or not with a sauce, or simply
turned upon a platter, can be prettily garnished
with eggs and greens. Plain meat-balls and potato-
or hominy-balls can be placed together on a platter
with such regard to effect that the dish assumes the
character of an entrée, instead of appearing like a
makeshift from left-over pieces.
The next means after larding in what may be
called natural garnishing is in the employment of
gravies and sauces. No article should ever swim
in sauce, but a little can be used with good effect on
many dishes. A venison steak wet with a currant
jelly sauce, and just enough of the sauce poured
on the bottom of the platter to color it, gives a glaze
and juicy look to the steak which improves its appearance.
A very little tomato sauce under breaded
veal chops or croquettes gives color and emphasis
to the dish. White sauce poured over boiled dishes
gives greater whiteness and often covers defects. In
French cooking, much use is made of masking,
which is often done by glazing and by the use of
sauces. As white sauces will make white foods
whiter, so brown ones will make brown ones browner.
Fitness must of course be observed. If crispness is
a part of the excellence of a dish, it would not do to
destroy that quality by using a moistening garnish.
Vegetables as garnishes come next in order of
suitableness and convenience. When vegetables are
placed on the same platter with meats, they not only
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ornament the dish, but contribute to the ease of
serving a dinner. When they are used the dish is
called à la jardinière or à la printanière. Probably
every cook knows how to serve mashed or fried potatoes
or green peas in the center of a circle of chops.
Similar combinations can be made in various ways
and of many things. Spinach, beans, carrots, purées,
macaroni, spaghetti, or rice may be placed so as to
form a base, raising the chops like a crown, or
grouped with them in rows, or alternating with the
individual pieces. Macedoine is a mixture of any
number of vegetables, such as peas, beans of various
kinds, carrot and turnip balls, flowers of cauliflower
and any other vegetable obtainable. They may be
mixed together, or each vegetable may be kept distinct
and placed in small piles around the platter.
Small portions of vegetables left over may be used to
advantage in this way. Very little need be used of
any one, and any number may be combined on the
same dish. Potatoes boiled or fried can be prepared
in many fancy ways to make them suitable for garnishing.
Well-seasoned spinach is excellent with
chops, steaks, or roasts. Browned onions are often
used. Meats with onion garnishes make dishes called
à la soubise. Brussels sprouts, hot, are a suitable garnish
for corned beef; or cold, with a French dressing,
are an excellent salad to serve with cold beef. They
should not be over-cooked or they will lose their
shape. Stuffed tomatoes may be used with almost
any meat dish.
Vegetable purée, in fancy form, is useful for embellishment,
and may take the place of a fresh vegetable.
Purée is made of any vegetable mashed and
seasoned in the same manner as potato. Navy beans,
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lima beans, flageolets, and peas, either fresh or dried,
are so used. The purée can be pressed through a
pastry-bag into forms simulating roses, or placed in
piles on rounds of toast. Vegetables intended to be
eaten with the meats they garnish should be well
seasoned before being placed on the platter; but
where they are to serve only an ornamental purpose,
they may sometimes, as in the case of carrots
and turnips, be used uncooked, as they have a better
color and more firmness when raw. These two vegetables
are very useful, as they are obtainable all
the year round. Carrots are particularly pretty
when small. Large ones sliced and then stamped into
fancy shapes, combined with turnips treated in the
same way, are frequently used for making designs.
Sometimes they are cut into balls, sometimes are
carved into forms simulating roses. It is easy to
make them into cups, using a fluted knife to shape
the outside, and hollowing the center with a potato-scoop.
These cups are good for holding any vegetable
or for vegetable salads.
Rice is generally used for borders which are intended
to keep creamed dishes and fricassees in
shape. Sausages cut in halves or quarters, or fried
bacon, make a good relish as well as a garnish for
many meats; they are particularly good with egg
dishes. Paper frills on protruding bones serve the
excellent purpose of concealing these unsightly ends.
They are easily made by folding a strip of paper
lengthwise, then cutting it down about one and
a half inches at intervals of one-eighth inch on the
folded side, thus making a double fringe; next slip
one side up a little, making the fringe round out;
and, finally, roll this around a stick, leaving the
// 025.png
.pn +1
openwork in a close spiral. These frills are used on
the bones of a leg of mutton, on ham, on chops, and
on drumsticks.
The green garnishes are parsley, watercress, small
crisp lettuce leaves, green lettuce cut into ribbons,
chicory, and celery tops. These are all edible, and
all have places where they are especially appropriate.
Parsley, which is most commonly used, is preëminent
for convenience, beauty of leaf, and freshness.
In many cases, however, greens which can be eaten
with the dish are preferable, such as watercress with
broiled or fried meats or fish. Parsley may be used
with almost everything in its purely ornamental
function, but it can be chopped and sprinkled over
foods for both its flavoring and decorative qualities.
A woman who has mastered the art of making an
omelet will usually give it this finishing touch.
Parsley should be very green and crisp, well washed,
and dried with a cloth before being used; it may
then be broken into sprigs and placed at intervals,
or formed into a wreath. Sometimes a large bunch,
like a bouquet, may be used with good effect.
.if h
.il fn=fig-001.jpg w=600px id=fig-001
.ca
NO. 1. LEMONS CUT FOR GARNISHES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 1. LEMONS CUT FOR GARNISHES.]
.sp 2
.if-
Lemons, like parsley, have convenience to recommend
them, and, like watercress, are acceptable with
fried meats. The acid of lemon is the best condiment
for veal. When they serve the double purpose of
garnish and condiment, they should be cut so the
pieces can be taken in the hand and pressed without
soiling the fingers. This is effected by cutting
them in quarters lengthwise, or in halves and then
in quarters. In some instances a half lemon is not
too much to serve with one portion, but ordinarily
quarters are sufficient. Slices are useless with meats,
except as ornaments. Illustration #No. 1:fig-001# shows a
// 026.png
.pn +1
lemon ready to be sliced. It has been channeled so
as to give the notched edges which make the slices
more ornamental. The illustration also shows a
lemon made to simulate a pig. This form can be
used with propriety on a ham or pork dish. The
ears are formed by cutting and raising a triangular
slice on each side of the pointed end, the eyes are
made of cloves, the legs and tail of wooden toothpicks.
.if h
.il fn=fig-002.jpg w=600px id=fig-002
.ca
NO. 2. EGGS CUT FOR GARNISHES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 2. EGGS CUT FOR GARNISHES.]
.sp 2
.if-
Hard-boiled eggs ornament in a variety of ways.
They should be boiled very hard, then cut with a
thin, sharp knife so the slices will be smooth and the
edges clean. Illustration #No. 2:fig-002# shows plain slices,
rings made by slipping the yolk out of slices, an
egg cut into quarters and eighths, a whole yolk set
into a ring, and a stuffed egg. Yolks pressed through
a colander and sprinkled over creamed meat and fish
dishes, cream toast, and some other dishes make a
beautiful golden covering. Chopped whites in conjunction
with crumbed yolks are used for tracing
designs over salads, minces, and cold pieces.
Pickled beets are a useful and effective garnish.
The color gives decided contrast, and the flavor is
a good relish. Sliced beets can be stamped with
vegetable-cutters into fancy shapes, or cut with a
knife into diamonds, cubes, or strips. One can easily
have them always at hand. Two or three boiled beets
sliced thin and put into vinegar will last until all are
used, and should be among the stores in the dresser
awaiting the convenience of the cook. Cucumber
pickles and gherkins are equally useful in point of
color effects, and in giving piquancy to many foods.
They are used in slices stamped into fancy shapes, or
chopped and arranged in lines or in little heaps.
Gherkins are usually left whole, but may be sliced,
// 027.png
// 028.png
// 029.png
.pn +1
giving buttons of color. Capers and olives complete
the list of condiment garnishes, though any pickle
may be used with propriety on cold meat dishes.
Illustration #No. 3:fig-003# shows various garnishes as explained
in legend.
Croutons are an indispensable part of hot minced
meat dishes, creamed mixtures, and eggs cooked in
various ways. They serve also to ornament these
dishes, which especially require garnishing to make
them presentable. Croutons are pieces of bread
browned in butter in a sauté-pan, or moistened with
butter and browned in the oven. Care should be
taken to cut them exactly, the shape depending on
the dish with which they are to be used. For soups
they should be quarter-inch cubes; for minced meats,
triangles more or less acute. Circles, squares, and
strips also have their places. The color should be
light golden, not dark brown; the latter color betrays
inexperience or carelessness.
.if h
.il fn=fig-003.jpg w=600px cj=l id=fig-003
.ca
NO. 3. GARNISHES.
1. A carrot cut into cup shape with a fluted knife and filled with tomato.
2. A lemon cut into basket shape, the center covered with chopped parsley.
3. A turnip cut into cup shape with fluted knife and filled with green peas.
4. A carrot cup holding parsley.
5. Graduated slices of carrot holding a sprig of parsley.
6. Olives.
7. Strips of the white of a hard boiled egg arranged in a circle, the whole\
yolk placed in the center. The white is cut lengthwise of the egg, the\
strips pointed at the ends and sliced so they will lie flat. A small\
slice is taken off the yolk to make it stand firm.
8. Cranberries.
9. Slices of celery that are crescent shaped.
10. Sliced pickled beet stamped into various shapes.
11. A gherkin sliced nearly to the end, the slices then spread out to resemble\
a leaf.
12. Chopped pickled beet.
13. A bottle of capers.
14. Aspic jelly cut into triangular, square, and diamond shaped pieces\
and into small dice.
On the front edge of the board are three pieces of chicken aspic which is\
so transparent that the pattern of the paper shows through it.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 3. GARNISHES.]
1. A carrot cut into cup shape with a fluted knife and filled with tomato.
2. A lemon cut into basket shape, the center covered with chopped
parsley.
3. A turnip cut into cup shape with fluted knife and filled with green
peas.
4. A carrot cup holding parsley.
5. Graduated slices of carrot holding a sprig of parsley.
6. Olives.
7. Strips of the white of a hard boiled egg arranged in a circle, the whole
yolk placed in the center. The white is cut lengthwise of the egg, the
strips pointed at the ends and sliced so they will lie flat. A small
slice is taken off the yolk to make it stand firm.
8. Cranberries.
9. Slices of celery that are crescent shaped.
10. Sliced pickled beet stamped into various shapes.
11. A gherkin sliced nearly to the end, the slices then spread out to resemble
a leaf.
12. Chopped pickled beet.
13. A bottle of capers.
14. Aspic jelly cut into triangular, square, and diamond shaped pieces
and into small dice.
On the front edge of the board are three pieces of chicken aspic which is
so transparent that the pattern of the paper shows through it.]
.sp 2
.if-
Fontage cups holding vegetables are useful for
garnishing.
The articles in the following list are used for garnishing
meats:
.in +4
.nf l
Parsley
Lettuce
Watercress
Chicory
Hard-boiled eggs
Lemons
Pickles
Capers
Olives
Beets
Croutons
Fancy skewers
Paper frills
Vegetables
Mushrooms
Macaroni
Spaghetti
Rice
Potato or purée forms
Sauces
Sausages
Bacon
.nf-
.in -4
// 030.png
.pn +1
A cook who has a desire to ornament her dishes can
make an infinite variety of garnishings by combining
various things, or by changing the form and arrangement
of any one of them. Most of the articles
used are within the reach of all. It is even not
necessary to buy articles especially for this purpose,
for odds and ends left over, or those standard stores
always in the larder, will afford enough material
tastefully to ornament the dishes.
It must be borne in mind that decorations should
not be such as will embarrass the carver.
.sp 2
.h3
VEGETABLES
.sp 1
With very few exceptions, vegetables should be
served au naturel. Meats require all the aids of skilful
handling and tasteful adornment. Vegetables,
on the contrary, have great beauty in themselves,
and the art of the cook cannot rival that of nature.
Therefore a few sprigs of parsley so arranged as to
give a finish to the dish are ordinarily sufficient garnishing.
In those cases, however, where the vegetables
lose form and color in cooking, the skill of the
cook may be employed to restore these qualities as
far as possible. The more a cabbage can be made to
look like itself, the more attractive it will be. This, at
first thought, may seem a difficult thing to do, but the
boiled vegetable can easily be placed in a cup made
of the outside green leaves of the cabbage, and so,
in a measure, present its own beautiful form and
color. Illustration #No. 4:fig-004# shows a plain boiled cabbage
mixed with a white sauce and so arranged.
.if h
.il fn=fig-004.jpg w=600px id=fig-004
.ca
NO. 4. SAVOY CABBAGE LEAVES HOLDING CREAMED BOILED CABBAGE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 4. SAVOY CABBAGE LEAVES HOLDING CREAMED BOILED CABBAGE.]
.sp 2
.if-
The color of this vegetable in its natural state appeals
to the esthetic sense of every artist, and many
// 031.png
// 032.png
// 033.png
.pn +1
a beautiful picture has been made of a field of cabbages;
yet the farmer who sees a man sit down with
canvas and brush before his cabbage patch usually
regards him as a crank, for to his untutored mind
cabbages are associated only with their utility.
Many housekeepers are equally mistaken in their
views about this vegetable, and consider it coarse
food fit to serve only garnished with apologies. Such
opinions are based on error, however, for the cabbage
is both beautiful to look at and delicious to eat.
There are many receipts for cooking cabbage which
make it as delicate a dish as cauliflower.
.if h
.il fn=fig-005.jpg w=600px id=fig-005
.ca
NO. 5. SPINACH GARNISHED WITH WHITE OF HARD BOILED EGG AND CROUTONS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 5. SPINACH GARNISHED WITH WHITE OF HARD BOILED EGG AND CROUTONS.]
.sp 2
.if-
In the case of spinach, since the form cannot be
preserved, recourse is had to molding; the color also
may be heightened by contrast with other colors.
Illustration #No. 5:fig-005# shows spinach molded by being
pressed into a basin decorated with the whites of
hard-boiled eggs, and with croutons placed around
the form after it is unmolded. Both the eggs and the
croutons improve the taste of the spinach. The
basin was first buttered to hold the egg in place while
the design was being arranged. Crumbed yolk of
hard-boiled egg sprinkled over spinach is another
garnishing for this vegetable which enhances its
green color and gives the dish a better appearance.
.if h
.il fn=fig-006.jpg w=600px id=fig-006
.ca
NO. 6. ASPIC OF GREEN PEAS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 6. ASPIC OF GREEN PEAS.]
.sp 2
.if-
There are many ways of cooking any vegetable.
These various ways may serve for change, but few
of them are better than the simple one of boiling
and serving with a suitable sauce. Attention should
be given to dishing vegetables so that there is no appearance
of their having been turned carelessly on
to the platter. A neatly folded napkin can be used
under dry, unseasoned vegetables, like asparagus,
artichokes, or corn. The napkin gives daintiness to
// 034.png
.pn +1
the dish, and in the case of corn, when folded over
it, helps to keep it hot.
.sp 2
.h3
COLD DISHES
.sp 1
It has been said above that discrimination should
be made in garnishing dishes; those to be served hot,
for instance, should go directly from the fire to the
table, and not be allowed to become cool while being
elaborately garnished; on the other hand, cold dishes
demand no haste and permit of so much elaboration
that at suppers and buffet luncheons they are depended
upon largely for table decoration.
The accomplished cook considers the work on cold
pieces an opportunity for giving examples of his
skill, and the ornamentation of molds and chaud-froids
a kind of fancy work which requires nicety
and taste. Under the head of cold dishes come all
the salads, the pâtés, galantines, cold fish dishes, ices,
and sweets. In each of these there is range in which
to display culinary accomplishments. The skill requisite
for moderate adornment of these dishes is
not so great that one need hesitate to undertake
them. Cold dishes are often more gratefully received
in summer than hot ones, therefore it is desirable
that every cook should be able to serve them
in attractive forms. Again, from an economic point
of view they are desirable, as meats can be served
a second time in cold forms quite as acceptably as
before.
Many meats, when served cold, require to be boned
and pressed into good shape. Ordinary kitchen
boards weighted down serve very well for a press.
The meat, while hot, is put into molds, or is rolled
// 035.png
.pn +1
in cloth, the ends tied, and then placed in the press.
Small muffin-rings can be used for sweetbreads,
bread-tins or oval molds for other meats. Chaud-froid
sauce is often spread over galantines, and jellied
mayonnaise over cold fish. On this smooth surface
the decoration is laid in some design traced in
fancy cuts of truffle, or in a combination of white of
egg with truffles, cold tongue, olives, and other suitable
things which give color. See illustration
#No. 114:fig-114#.
Aspic jelly is a principal reliance for covering cold
pieces. It is not masking in this case, for the jelly
should be perfectly transparent, while masking conceals
the material of which the dish is composed.
Aspic is also cut into small triangles or in squares
to make borders, and is sometimes chopped and used
for decoration. See illustration #No. 3:fig-003#. Aspic is no
longer one of the difficult preparations reserved for
the hand of the very experienced cook. Any of the
beef or chicken extracts stiffened with gelatine, and
seasoned and cleared if necessary, make good aspic.
The preparation is as simple as that of any jelly.
A little care, however, in molding and handling is
requisite for good results. Jellied vegetables are appropriate
to use with jellied or other cold meats.
Small cups are used for molding them, and the pieces
can be made very ornamental. See illustration #No. 6:fig-006#.
The small forms placed around meat and served with
a green salad make an attractive cold course.
.if h
.il fn=fig-007.jpg w=600px cj=l id=fig-007
.ca
NO. 7. FANCY SKEWERS FOR GARNISHING COLD MEAT OR FISH DISHES.
1. Mushroom, Cranberry, or Olive, whole Hard Boiled Egg, Cranberry, Mushroom.
2. Cranberry or Olive. Prawn, Quarter of Lemon. Prawn, Cranberry, or Olive.
3. Mushroom with Stem. Notched Slice of Lemon. Cranberry or Olive.\
Lemon, Cranberry, or Olive.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 7. FANCY SKEWERS FOR GARNISHING COLD MEAT OR FISH DISHES.
1. Mushroom, Cranberry, or Olive, whole Hard Boiled Egg, Cranberry, Mushroom.
2. Cranberry or Olive. Prawn, Quarter of Lemon. Prawn, Cranberry, or Olive.
3. Mushroom with Stem. Notched Slice of Lemon. Cranberry or Olive.\
Lemon, Cranberry, or Olive.]
.sp 2
.if-
Fancy skewers are much employed on cold meats.
Their office is purely ornamental, so when they are
used trouble is not to be considered. A fancy-headed
skewer is run through, perhaps, a fine red cockscomb,
then a truffle, then a fancy cut of lemon, or a mushroom,
// 036.png
.pn +1
or a carved vegetable. Truffles in combination
with vegetables molded in aspic and quenelles also are
often used. If all these things are impracticable,
one can devise combinations more easily obtained.
A trussing needle can be utilized, concealing the
head in a section of lemon and building down with
carrot and turnip in alternating colors and shapes,
and perhaps using a crawfish, an egg, or an olive
in the combination. See illustration #No. 7:fig-007#. French
authors recommend that these skewers be employed
only occasionally, so that they may not lose the attraction
which novelty gives them.
Cracked, crushed, or ground ice can often be used
with good effect. It gives crispness to olives, celery,
radishes, and cucumbers, and enhances the beauty
of the dish as well. With raw oysters it is indispensable,
and with melons very desirable. A free use of
ice on the summer breakfast table will go far toward
inviting an appetite for that meal.
It is well to remember that although great elaboration
is possible in cold dishes, it is not necessary, and
dishes can be made very attractive without chaud-froid,
aspic, or traced designs. If the pieces are
shapely, they will look well if simply sprinkled with
chopped parsley, chopped white of egg, or the
crumbed yolks, and dressed with any of the green
salads. Flowers also can be used to aid in adornment.
.if h
.il fn=fig-008.jpg w=600px id=fig-008
.ca
NO. 8. BOILED FISH IN SWIMMING POSITION.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 8. BOILED FISH IN SWIMMING POSITION.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
FISH
.sp 1
As fish dishes rank with any other kind in point
of attractiveness, and are open to almost as great a
variety of garnishing as are meats, the same general
// 037.png
// 038.png
// 039.png
.pn +1
remarks apply to them. The matter of shape and
color here, too, has to be considered. A boiled fish
dropping to pieces from over-cooking, or bereft of its
head or tail, is an unsightly dish. It is permitted
to serve fish au naturel, even going so far as to simulate
swimming. This is done by propping it with
a whole carrot laid inside, which gives the fish
enough rigidity to stand upright. Illustration No.
#8:fig-008# shows a fish served in this way. The garnishing
is white rings of hard-boiled egg, holding sprigs of
parsley, laid along the back. A slice of lemon
sprinkled with and surrounded by parsley, giving
the effect of a medallion, is placed against the side of
the fish. A fish to be baked may be twisted like the
letter S to make it stand upright. A boiled fish,
whether served whole or in part, should appear clean.
No scum from the kettle should be suffered to remain
on it, and no water should drip from it into the
platter. A folded napkin is usually placed under
boiled fish to insure dryness.
Boiled potatoes are ordinarily served with boiled
fish, and may be used for garnishing, if cut into balls
and cooked so that they are very white and mealy.
Parsley gives color and also a sense of freshness. It
may be used in large bunches, especially when the
fish is cut, or on creamed fish dishes.
.if h
.il fn=fig-009.jpg w=600px id=fig-009 cj=l
.ca
NO. 9. BOILED SECTION OF FISH COVERED WITH WHITE SAUCE AND\
GARNISHED WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY AND POTATO BALLS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 9. BOILED SECTION OF FISH COVERED WITH WHITE SAUCE AND
GARNISHED WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY AND POTATO BALLS.]
.sp 2
.if-
Illustration #No. 9:fig-009# shows a middle cut of fish with
potato and parsley decoration. The fish being cod,
the flesh is not sufficiently white to be attractive, and
so it is masked with white sauce, then sprinkled with
chopped parsley. Had the fish been halibut, the
sauce would have been omitted. Hard-boiled eggs
are an excellent accompaniment for boiled fish, and
when not used in the sauce may be supplied in the
// 040.png
.pn +1
garnishing. Creamed fish is pretty with the top
made golden with crumbed yolks.
Fried fish should have a lemon color and look
clean, dry, and bright, not black or greasy. The
color is secured by dipping them in milk, then rolling
in flour and frying in smoking-hot fat; or, if eggs
and crumbs are used, having white, fresh crumbs
grated from the stale loaf. Fish to be fried is often
cut into slices, or into fillets, but small fish need not
be cut and so lose their character. Smelts are sometimes
turned into rings, or are laid open and the head
drawn through a slit cut in the back. Different ways
of dressing them give variety, and make dishes ornamental
from form alone. If potatoes are served with
fried fish, they should be cut into balls and fried.
Lemons are indispensable with fried or broiled fish.
They are frequently sliced, but are better cut in
quarters so as to give more of the juice, which is
needed for condiment. Lemon sprinkled with chopped
parsley is very pretty.
Broiled fish is improved by being spread with
maître d’hôtel butter. This gives it a moist appearance,
and is the best possible sauce for it; at the same
time the parsley in the sauce helps to garnish the
dish. Watercress placed around the fish completes
the garnishing and makes the dish perfect. Lemon
and watercress are the best condiments for any fried
or broiled dish. Baked fish will not bear more than
a few sprigs of parsley as garnishing.
Lobster coral is much esteemed on account of its
brilliant color, and when lobster is served it is well
to use it as a garnish. It may be sprinkled over the
whole surface of a lobster dish, or be arranged in
lines or dots as the circumstances suggest. Shrimps,
// 041.png
.pn +1
prawns, and crawfish make good garnishes for any
fish, whether it is served hot or cold.
When dishes are to be passed, the dishing and garnishing
should be such that the portions are easily
distinguishable.
An amusing story is told by a scientist of the predicament
in which he was placed when the guest
of honor at an English table. He was a man of simple
habits in his home, and was very near-sighted.
Elaborately garnished dishes were passed to him
first, as he sat at the right of the host, and he had to
break the construction of what he was pleased to call
architectural or master-builder’s dishes, and this
without knowing where their keystone lay, or of
what they were composed. He was thus obliged to
make public exhibition of his awkwardness, as well
as betray ignorance in that branch of his own business,
which left him unable to recognize biological
specimens when they had evolved into their highest
development in the hands of the cook. This story
serves as an important hint that no dish should be
entirely disguised. A lobster should still be a lobster
in form or suggestion, however it is prepared. For
example, should it be served in chops, a claw pressed
into one end would not only carry out the form of a
chop, but would also designate the dish. There is
generally something that can be reserved from an
article which loses its shape in cooking that may be
used to garnish the dish and act as a kind of label.
The garnishes are:
For Vegetables
.in +4
.nf l
Parsley
Hard-boiled eggs
Croutons
.nf-
.in -4
// 042.png
.pn +1
For Cold Meats
.in +4
.nf l
Parsley
Leaves of any of the salads
Cold vegetables in fancy cuts
Hard-boiled eggs
Stuffed eggs
Pickles of any kind
Capers
Olives
Lemons
Jellied vegetables
Aspic jelly
Truffles
Chaudfroid sauce
Fancy skewers
Flowers
Ice
.nf-
.in -4
For Fish
.in +4
.nf l
Parsley
Lettuce
Watercress
Croutons
Hard-boiled eggs
Lemons
Pickles
Capers
Potato purée and balls
Lobster coral and claws
Crawfish
Prawns
Shrimps
.nf-
.in -4
.sp 2
.h3
POTATOES
.sp 1
Potatoes are a universal dish, and there are an
infinite variety of ways of cooking them: boiling,
baking, frying, all manner of ways to suit all manner
of people, and to accompany all kinds of meats.
Yet, strange as it may seem, it is the food usually
the worst cooked of any that is presented. The potatoes
are too often soggy, greasy, blackened, burned.
The poor cook seems determined to destroy both the
favor and flavor of this useful vegetable. The potato
is mostly starch, and it is not as well known as
it should be that the principle of cooking starch is
to cook it only until the starch grains burst, and then
remove it from moisture, for the starch grains, when
// 043.png
.pn +1
open, readily absorb moisture and become soggy.
Hence we see this vegetable a most delicious dish
or one unfit to eat, according to the skill of the cook.
Mashed potato is served from the simplest kitchen,
but betrays the poor cook as quickly as a greasy soup.
Sometimes one sees an attempt made to improve
the appearance of this dish by pressing and smoothing
it over the top. This makes a hard and compact
mass of what ought to be a light and flaky substance.
Often it is served in a deep dish, which is another
mistake; for the potato, when light and white, is
tempting enough to serve on a flat dish where it may
be seen. Potatoes that are to be served in this way
should be mashed the moment they are cooked, and
not set aside for a more convenient time. They may
then be moistened with milk or cream and be seasoned
with butter, pepper, and salt, in measure to
the richness desired, and whipped until, like the
whites of eggs, they become white and spongy from
the air imprisoned in the cells. Mashed potato may
be served in a great variety of ways. It can be run
through the menu from soup to salad; can be used
for entrées, and can make ornamental fancy dishes
out of even minces and stews. It is invaluable as a
mask for broken dishes; for instance, a leg of mutton
can be made a presentable dish to serve a second time
by filling the cut with mashed potato. In this case
it must be molded to the shape of the roast and be
painted with egg over the top, so it will take color
and not betray the patch. Such expedients are at
times admissible and should not be scorned. It has
been wisely said that “if there is not economy in the
kitchen there will soon be no kitchen.”
When potato is made into cakes, timbales, or croquettes,
// 044.png
.pn +1
it must have egg mixed through it, else it
will lose its form when cooked the second time. When
used as borders for minces or creamed dishes, it can
be turned into shape with a knife, be lightly pressed
into a mold to give it form, or be pressed through a
pastry-bag and tube into fancy forms.
Frying is perhaps the method of cooking potatoes
which requires the most skill. Fried balls, slices, or
straws are always excellent with broiled meats, and
at the same time are the best garnish for them. The
height of skill is reached in the soufflé. These small
balloons are something of a marvel, and are seldom
seen except from the hand of a French cook. The
amateur seldom succeeds with this dish, yet it is one
worthy of the practice which makes perfect. To prepare
the delectable soufflé, the potato is cut lengthwise,
or with the grain; the slices must be one eighth
of an inch in thickness and taken off with one clean,
sharp cut, then trimmed to uniform shapes, either
elliptical or round. The slices are soaked in cold
water and dried with a cloth at the moment of cooking.
They are immersed in fat just below the smoking-point,
and cooked for five minutes, or until softened;
are then drained and allowed to cool for a little
time in an open oven, and then immersed a second
time in fat which is very hot, when the slices at once
puff and brown. They should be served at once.
.if h
.il fn=fig-010.jpg w=600px id=fig-010 cj=l
.ca
NO. 10. UTENSILS.
1. Baking sheet.
2. Purée sieve.
3. Fontage or Swedish timbale irons.
4. Pastry brush.
5. Two pastry bags made of rubber cloth, the larger one holding a star tube.
6. Tubes for pastry bags with plain, round, and star openings of different\
sizes. The last four on the right are small tubes for icing cake in\
ornamental designs.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 10. UTENSILS.
1. Baking sheet.
2. Fontage or Swedish timbale irons.
3. Purée sieve.
4. Pastry brush.
5. Two pastry bags made of rubber cloth, the larger one holding a star tube.
6. Tubes for pastry bags with plain, round, and star openings of different\
sizes. The last four on the right are small tubes for icing cake in\
ornamental designs.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-012.jpg w=600px cj=l
.ca
NO. 12. CUTTERS AND MOLDS.
1. A nest of long vegetable cutters making pencil-shaped pieces of different\
sizes.
2, 3, 4. Bread and cake cutters in the forms of a heart, a spade, and a\
clover leaf.
5. Individual timbale molds.
6. Pastry cutter for vol-au-vents.
7. Form for molding lobster or fish chops.
8, 9. Small plain round, and fluted cutters for tiny biscuits or for garnishes.
10. A group of fancy cutters for sliced vegetables to be used in macedoine,\
in soup, or as garnishes.
11. A smaller cutter used for truffles and hard boiled eggs.
12. Cake cutter in form of crescent.
13. Three vegetable scoops.
14. Fluted knife for cutting fluted slices of vegetables, turnip cups, etc.
15. A spatula, or dull edged flexible knife.
16. Small molds for aspics or other jellies used for garnishing.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 12. CUTTERS AND MOLDS.
1. A nest of long vegetable cutters making pencil-shaped pieces of different
sizes.
2, 3, 4. Bread and cake cutters in the forms of a heart, a spade, and a
clover leaf.
5. Individual timbale molds.
6. Pastry cutter for vol-au-vents.
7. Form for molding lobster or fish chops.
8, 9. Small plain round, and fluted cutters for tiny biscuits or for garnishes.
10. A group of fancy cutters for sliced vegetables to be used in macedoine,
in soup, or as garnishes.
11. A smaller cutter used for truffles and hard boiled eggs.
12. Cake cutter in form of crescent.
13. Three vegetable scoops.
14. Fluted knife for cutting fluted slices of vegetables, turnip cups, etc.
15. A spatula, or dull edged flexible knife.
16. Small molds for aspics or other jellies used for garnishing.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-013.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 13. RING MOLDS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 13. RING MOLDS.]
.sp 2
.if-
Potato straws are very attractive and seem so light
and harmless that those who ordinarily reject fried
dishes are tempted by them. They are cut lengthwise
of the tuber, first in slices about one eighth of
an inch in thickness, and then into straws the length
of the slices. They cook very quickly in smoking-hot
fat, and must not be left in so long as to become
// 045.png
// 046.png
// 047.png
.pn +1
brown and dry. They should be crisp and of a lemon
color. The straws can be cut of a larger size if desired,
and are especially pretty if cut with a fluted
knife.
It seems desirable to suggest to housekeepers the
feasibility of making a specialty of cooking potatoes,
and with them to give variety, which is so acceptable
to those who sit at their board. Perhaps no other
one thing is susceptible to so many changes, and is
so simple to prepare, is so satisfactory when properly
served, and withal so nutritious. It answers both
the substantial and the esthetic requirements of the
perfect meal; it can be suitably served for breakfast,
dinner, supper, and luncheon; it is within the
reach of all.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM
.sp 1
Whipped cream often makes the best sauce for a
dessert dish, and can be used as a garnish. Its use
need not be considered an extravagance. A half-pint
of double cream is all that is usually called for,
this costs but ten cents, and often the use of cream
saves the use of butter, in the same way that water
can sometimes be substituted for milk if a little
butter is added to the receipt to give the richness
which milk imparts.
.sp 2
.h3
CAKE
.sp 1
Decorating cakes takes a little time, but facility is
soon acquired, and the time is not misspent, as the
cakes, before being served, can be used to ornament
the table.
// 048.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
THE PASTRY-BAG
.sp 1
The pastry-bag is a cornucopia-shaped pocket
made of rubber cloth, of duck, or of any closely
woven fabric like ticking. The point of the cornucopia
is cut off and a tin tube pressed into the small
opening. The bags made of rubber cloth are the best,
as they do not allow moisture to come through, and
are easily cleaned. They cost fifteen cents each, and
can be bought at house-furnishing stores, but bags
can be easily made at home.
The tubes cost ten cents each, are of graduated
sizes, and have various-shaped openings.
The pastry-bag is easy to handle, and is of great
utility where ornamental dishes are desired. It is
used for mashed vegetables, meringues, whipped
cream, drop cake mixtures, icing, etc.
A tube, with opening of suitable size, is fitted into
the small end of the bag, the mixture is then put in,
and the bag, gathered over close to the material, is
held and pressed with one hand while the tube is
guided with the other, leaving the material squeezed
through it in the forms desired. It needs but very
little practice to make ornamental designs. It is
well to have at least two bags, one of them large, with
a large tube, to hold mixtures used in quantity, and
one small for decorating with icing.
.sp 2
.h3
FONTAGE CUPS
.sp 1
.in +4
.nf l
1 cupful of flour,
½ teaspoonful salt,
Yolks of 2 eggs,
Milk or water.
.nf-
.in -4
// 049.png
.pn +1
Add enough milk to a cup of flour to make a thin
batter, then add the salt and the beaten yolks. The
batter must be smooth and quite thin. Use a small
bowl deep enough to immerse the fontage iron.
Have deep fat smoking hot. Place the iron in the fat to heat it. Dip
the hot iron into the batter, covering it to within a quarter of an
inch of the top; the batter will rise when put in the hot fat and
cover the whole iron. Hold the iron in the batter for a minute, or
until a little of the batter has hardened around it, then lift it
carefully, holding the iron so the batter will not slip off. Immerse
it in the hot fat and cook until light-colored.
After a few trials one will be able to make the
cups even and thin. They are also called Swedish
timbales, and are used for holding any kind of
creamed mixtures, or for holding vegetables. They
can be used as an entrée, or for garnishing other
dishes. The cups will keep for some time, but in
this case should be freshened by heating before being
used; and, as they soften quickly, the mixture
should not be replaced in them until the moment
of serving. Illustration #No. 10:fig-010# shows fontage irons.
.if h
.il fn=fig-011.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 11. DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING BUTTER.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 11. DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING BUTTER.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING BUTTER
.sp 1
Numbers one, two, and three are made by pressing
butter through a pastry-bag with star-tube. In No.
1 it is cut in three-inch lengths; in No. 2 it is
pressed into long pencils and cut when cold into one-inch
lengths; and in No. 3 it is made into rosettes
by holding the tube still until the butter has piled
up to the size desired. These are good forms for
fresh butter, and they should be made as soon as the
// 050.png
.pn +1
butter is churned and worked, as it is soft enough
then to pass through the tube. If salted butter is
used, it must be whipped with a fork until it is soft
and light before being pressed through the bag. The
forms must be dropped at once into ice-water to
harden them. Serve the pieces in a dish with cracked
ice and green leaves. Parsley will do if nothing
better is at hand. Rose leaves are especially pretty,
or a lettuce leaf may be used as a kind of basket.
No. 4 are shell-shaped pieces made with a bent,
fluted utensil made for the purpose (see illustration
No. 5, opposite page 256, “Century Cook Book”).
The utensil is dipped in hot water, wiped dry, and
then drawn lightly over the butter, making a thin
shaving which curls over as the utensil is drawn
along. The crook must be dipped in hot water and
wiped clean each time.
Butter molded into fancy shapes and served in
this way is very attractive.
.sp 2
.h3
MEASURES AND TERMS
.sp 1
1 cupful means half a pint.
1 teaspoonful of salt or spices means an even
teaspoonful.
1 tablespoonful of flour, butter, etc., means a
rounding spoonful.
Sauté means to cook in a pan with a little butter
or drippings.
Frying means cooking by immersion in hot fat.
Blanching almonds means taking off the skins.
This is done by letting them lie in boiling water
until the skins are loosened.
.if h
.il fn=fig-014.jpg w=600px cj=l
.ca
NO. 14. PAPER FRILLS. PAPER BOXES. CAKE DECORATIONS.
1. Pleated paper frill for concealing a baking dish.
2. Frill for leg-of-mutton bone.
3. Frills on wooden toothpicks for croquettes.
4. Frills for chop bones.
5. Board holding on a lace paper confectioners’ roses, of different colors,\
and other flowers for decorating cake.
6. Paper box holding silvered candy pellets for decorating cake.
7. Paper boxes for ices, or mixtures of creamed meats, or eggs.
8. Paper boxes for holding small iced cakes or candied fruits.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 14. PAPER FRILLS. PAPER BOXES. CAKE DECORATIONS.
1. Pleated paper frill for concealing a baking dish.
2. Frill for leg-of-mutton bone.
3. Frills on wooden toothpicks for croquettes.
4. Frills for chop bones.
5. Board holding on a lace paper confectioners’ roses, of different colors,
and other flowers for decorating cake.
6. Paper box holding silvered candy pellets for decorating cake.
7. Paper boxes for ices, or mixtures of creamed meats, or eggs.
8. Paper boxes for holding small iced cakes or candied fruits.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-015.jpg w=600px cj=l
.ca
NO. 15. CASSEROLES AND BAKING DISHES.
1. A white china dish for holding creamed oysters, etc., or to hold a\
smaller dish which has been in the oven.
2, 3. Oblong and round baking dishes of glazed pottery, brown on the outside,\
white in the inside, which can be sent to the table.
4. Pipkin, to use the same as a casserole.
5. Casserole.
6, 7. Brown-ware dishes for shirred eggs.
8. China cups for individual creamed dishes.
9. Small casserole.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 15. CASSEROLES AND BAKING DISHES.
1. A white china dish for holding creamed oysters, etc., or to hold a
smaller dish which has been in the oven.
2, 3. Oblong and round baking dishes of glazed pottery, brown on the outside,
white in the inside, which can be sent to the table.
4. Pipkin, to use the same as a casserole.
5. Casserole.
6, 7. Brown-ware dishes for shirred eggs.
8. China cups for individual creamed dishes.
9. Small casserole.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-016.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 16 ICE PLANE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 16 ICE PLANE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-017.jpg w=600px cj=l
.ca
NO. 17. HORS D’OEUVRES.
Hors d’oeuvres are relishes which are passed between the courses.
1. Olives.
2. Small heart stalks of celery and radishes in the same dish.
3. Curled celery. The celery is cut in two-inch lengths, which are scored\
across the ribbed side and then cut in narrow strips down to a quarter\
of an inch of one end. The pieces are then placed in cold water to\
make them curl.
4. Radishes cut in fancy shapes.
5. Pim-olas (olives stuffed with red peppers).
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 17. HORS D’OEUVRES.
Hors d’oeuvres are relishes which are passed between the courses.
1. Olives.
2. Small heart stalks of celery and radishes in the same dish.
3. Curled celery. The celery is cut in two-inch lengths, which are scored
across the ribbed side and then cut in narrow strips down to a quarter
of an inch of one end. The pieces are then placed in cold water to
make them curl.
4. Radishes cut in fancy shapes.
5. Pim-olas (olives stuffed with red peppers).]
.sp 2
.if-
Blanching sweetbreads means whitening them by
// 051.png
// 052.png
// 053.png
.pn +1
pouring cold water on them immediately after the
hot water is poured off.
A scale and a half-pint tin cup are indispensable
cooking utensils, as the success of many dishes depends
on exact weight and measurements.
Except in a few cases, receipts given in “Century
Cook Book” are not repeated here.
.sp 2
.h3
ORDER OF COURSES
.sp 2
.ta h:20 l:30
First Course |Fruits
|Cocktails
|Canapés
|Oysters on the half shell
|Clams on the half shell
First or Second Course |Soup
First, Second, or Third Course | Eggs
Fourth Course |Shell-fish
|Lobsters
|Fish
Fifth or Seventh Course |Entrées
Sixth Course |Meats
|Vegetables
|Cereals used as vegetables
|Chicken
Seventh Course |Punches
|Fruit
|Cheese dishes
|Entrées
Eighth Course |Game
|Salads
|Cold service
|Cheese
// 054.png
.pn +1
Ninth Course |Hot desserts
|Cold desserts
|Pies
|Tarts
Tenth Course |Ices
|Cake
Eleventh Course |Fruits
|Candies
Twelfth Course |Black coffee
|Tea
|Liqueurs
.ta-
.sp 2sp 4
.nf c
BEVERAGES SERVED AT LUNCHEON
.nf-
.nf b
Table waters
Cups
Wines
.nf-
// 055.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch02
Chapter II||FIRST COURSE
.nf c
FRUITS
.nf-
// 056.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 2
.nf c
FRUITS
.nf-
.sp 2
.in +4
.nf l
Oranges
Salpicon of fruits on glass plate
Salpicon of fruits in glasses
Grape-fruit
Strawberries on individual plates
Individual pineapples
Currants on individual plates
Frosted currants
Muskmelon
.nf-
.in -4
.sp 2
.nf c
COCKTAILS, CANAPÉS, OYSTERS, CLAMS
.nf-
.sp 2
.in +4
.nf l
Clam cocktails
Oyster cocktails
Anchovy eggs
Salmon canapés, heart-shaped
Anchovy canapés
Canapés of caviare
Oysters on the half shell
Clams on the half shell
Bread and butter sandwiches with oysters and clams
.nf-
.in -4
// 057.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h3
FRUITS
.sp 1
.ni
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Oranges. Cut off the tops of the oranges. Scrape out
the pulp and draw a narrow ribbon through each
top, passing the two ends through with a bodkin and
tying them on the under side. Drawing through the
ribbon soils it. Tie a bow on top.
Loosen the pulp of the orange, using a silver knife,
so it can be eaten with a spoon. Add a little sugar
if necessary, and a teaspoonful of sherry, if desired.
.ti -6
No. 2. Salpicon of fruits. Place in the center of a glass plate
some pieces of the pulp of an orange or grape-fruit,
or both mixed together. Arrange around them a
double row of white grapes cut in halves and with
the seeds removed.
Salpicon of fruits in glasses. This is a mixture of
fruits such as grape-fruit, grapes, oranges, bananas,
and pineapple, or any combination convenient. Divide
the oranges and grape-fruit into sections, then
carefully take off the skins and remove the seeds.
Leave the pulp in large pieces; add enough sugar to
sweeten and a little sherry if desired. Cut the grapes
in halves and remove the seeds. Place the mixture
in individual glasses and add two or three candied
cherries to each glass.
Grape-fruit. Prepare grape-fruit as directed above.
Sweeten it and make it very cold. Place it in individual
// 058.png
.pn +1
glasses with a candied cherry in the center.
At the last moment add a teaspoonful of cracked ice
to each glass.
.if h
.il fn=fig-018.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 18. 1. SALPICON OF FRUIT ON GLASS PLATE. 2. ORANGE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 18. 1. SALPICON OF FRUIT ON GLASS PLATE. 2. ORANGE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-019.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 19. INDIVIDUAL DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 19. INDIVIDUAL DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.]
.sp 2
.if-
Strawberries. Press powdered sugar into a small cup
or glass to mold it. Turn the sugar into the center
of a dish and arrange around it carefully selected
strawberries. Leave the hulls on the berries and
serve in individual portions.
Individual pineapples. Cut small pineapples in two.
Cut the ends so the pieces will stand straight. Cut
out the centers and tear the pulp into pieces, then return
it to the cups formed by the skins. Sweeten with
powdered sugar; add a tablespoonful of sherry, if
desired, to each portion. Let them stand a little while
to extract the juice. At the moment of serving add a
teaspoonful of cracked ice to each cup. Serve as a
first course at luncheon, or before the game at
dinner.
A variety called strawberry pines are best suited
for this dish. They are sometimes so small that a
whole one may be used as one portion.
.if h
.il fn=fig-020.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 20. INDIVIDUAL DISHES OF STRAWBERRY PINEAPPLES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 20. INDIVIDUAL DISHES OF STRAWBERRY PINEAPPLES.]
.sp 2
.if-
Currants. Make a mound of sugar as directed for
strawberries. Place around the sugar bunches of
cherry currants, as in No. 1, or pile them on grape
leaves as in No. 2. White and red currants may be
placed in the same dish. Serve in individual portions
as first course at luncheon or at breakfast.
.if h
.il fn=fig-021.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 21. INDIVIDUAL DISHES OF CURRANTS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 21. INDIVIDUAL DISHES OF CURRANTS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-022.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 22. FROSTED CURRANTS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 22. FROSTED CURRANTS.]
.sp 2
.if-
Frosted currants. Stem large cherry currants. Put
them in a dish with a quantity of granulated sugar
// 059.png
// 060.png
// 061.png
.pn +1
and shake them together. The moisture of the currants
will cause enough sugar to adhere to completely
cover them. Turn them off the sugar and serve
at once before the sugar loses its dryness. Serve
them on leaves in individual portions, or pass them
as a first course at luncheon or breakfast. This is a
very pretty way of serving currants.
.if h
.il fn=fig-023.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 23. MUSKMELON.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 23. MUSKMELON.]
.sp 2
.if-
Muskmelon. The muskmelon should be very ripe
and very cold. Cut the melons in two and serve
with cracked ice in each half. If the melon is not
too large serve a half as one portion. Serve on individual
plates, or pass as first course for breakfast,
luncheon, or dinner. Pass salt and sugar.
For other arrangements of fruits see “Century
Cook Book,” page 529.
.in 0
.pi
.sp 2
.h3
CLAM OR OYSTER COCKTAILS
.sp 1
Use small Little Neck clams or small Blue Point oysters.
.in +4
.nf l
To each 8 or 10 clams or oysters use:
One tablespoonful of tomato catsup,
Two tablespoonfuls of Chili sauce,
One half teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce,
A dash of tabasco or of paprika,
One tablespoonful of clam or oyster liquor,
The juice of one quarter of a lemon.
.nf-
.in -4
Mix the sauces and let the clams or oysters stand in them
for an hour before serving.
Serve in small glasses as a first course.
.if h
.il fn=fig-024.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 24. ANCHOVY EGGS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 24. ANCHOVY EGGS.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 062.png
.pn +1
.h3
ANCHOVY EGGS
.sp 1
Cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise, using a thin-bladed,
sharp knife. Have the eggs boiled twenty-five minutes
so the yolks will be crumby.
Remove the yolks, mash them, and mix them with mayonnaise
and the trimmings of the anchovies. Just before serving,
fill the white halves with the yolk mixture, covering the
whole top, heaping it in the middle and leaving a rough
surface. Trim anchovies to the right length and lay two
of them crossed over the top of each egg. Set each piece
on a round of bread sautéd in butter. Slice a little piece off
the bottom of the egg to make it stand firm.
Serve on individual plates.
Anchovies preserved in oil are put up in small bottles and
can be purchased from a grocer.
.if h
.il fn=fig-025.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 25. HEART-SHAPED SALMON CANAPÉS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 25. HEART-SHAPED SALMON CANAPÉS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
HEART-SHAPED SALMON CANAPÉS
.sp 1
Cut very light bread into slices one quarter of an inch
thick. Stamp them with a cutter into heart shapes. Spread
them thinly on both sides with butter and put them in the
oven to brown; or sauté them in butter. Let them cool, then
lay on each one a slice of Nova Scotia smoked salmon, cut as
thin as possible. Place around the edges of the heart a
border of chopped white of hard-boiled eggs, and a little
crumbed yolk just at the upper point of the heart, making
a round spot. The salmon must not be entirely covered with
egg, so that the hearts may show three colors. Serve on individual
plates, with a small piece of parsley at the rounded
end.
Nova Scotia salmon can be bought at delicatessen stores.
.if h
.il fn=fig-026.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 26. OYSTERS AND CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 26. OYSTERS AND CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 064.png
// 065.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
ANCHOVY CANAPÉS
.sp 1
Cut fresh bread into slices quarter of an inch thick, then
into rounds two and a half inches in diameter. Spread the
rounds of bread with butter, season with a little salt, pepper,
and mustard.
Split and trim the anchovies to uniform length and arrange
them on the bread in rosette form. Fill the spaces
between the anchovy fillets with the chopped white and the
crumbed yolk of hard-boiled eggs and make a border around
the bread with the white. Use a little chopped parsley in the
decoration.
For other canapés, see “Century Cook Book,” page 368.
.sp 2
.h3
CANAPÉS OF CAVIARE
.sp 1
Cut very light bread into slices quarter of an inch thick,
then into rounds or squares two inches across. Sauté them
in butter on one side. When they are cold spread them with
a thin covering of caviare moistened with a little oil and
lemon juice. Place on the top of each one a very thin slice
of lemon.
Caviare is the fermented roe of the sturgeon. It is a
dish much esteemed in Russia, but the taste for it is not very
general in other countries, so discretion should be used in
serving it.
It comes in small jars and can be obtained at grocers’.
.sp 2
.h3
OYSTERS OR CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL
.sp 1
Raw oysters and clams are served on the “half shell” for
a first course. Blue Point oysters and Little Neck clams are
the varieties preferred. The smallest ones, and those uniform
in size, should be selected. They should be opened
// 066.png
.pn +1
only a short time before serving. The muscle holding the
mollusk to the shell is cut and the oyster or clam is served
on the deep valve.
Arrange the clams or oysters symmetrically in a circle,
the beaks turned to the center, on a bed of cracked ice. Place
in the middle a quarter of a lemon cut lengthwise, the top
edge shaved off and the seeds extracted. Rest the piece of
lemon on a sprig of parsley or any green leaf.
Condiments, thin brown bread and butter sandwiches, and
biscuits are passed with this course.
The condiments (horseradish and tomato catsup, black
and red pepper) may be placed on a dish, and the bread and
biscuits arranged around them as in illustration.
// 067.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch03
Chapter III||SECOND COURSE
.nf c
SOUPS
.nf-
// 068.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 4
.nf c
SOUPS
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Consommé of Beef
Consommé of Chicken
Clam Broth
Clam Bisque
Cream of Clams
Cream of Oysters
Cream of Spinach
Cream of Celery
.nf-
.in 0
// 069.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h3
SOUPS
.sp 1
Soups used for luncheon are served in cups. Any kind of
soup can be used, but those given below are the ones generally
employed. For other soups, see “Century Cook Book,”
page 97.
.if h
.il fn=fig-027.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 27. BOUILLON CUP WITH SIPPETS OF TOAST AND ITALIAN BREAD STICKS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 27. BOUILLON CUP WITH SIPPETS OF TOAST AND ITALIAN BREAD STICKS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
CONSOMMÉ OF BEEF
.sp 1
Cut into pieces four pounds of beef taken from the under
part of the round, and the meat cut from a knuckle of veal.
Put them into a soup pot with two tablespoonfuls of butter
and let them brown on all sides. Then add a cupful of
water and let it fall to a glaze. This is to give color to the
soup. Add five and a half quarts of cold water. Let it boil
slowly for five to six hours. An hour before removing it add
soup vegetables, a tablespoonful of salt, fifteen peppercorns,
three cloves, two bay-leaves, a little thyme, marjoram, and
summer savory.
Strain the soup through a cloth and let it cool without
covering. When it is cold take off the grease. As no bones
were boiled with the soup, it will be clear; and as the meat
was browned, it will have a good color.
It can be made perfectly clear as follows: Pour the soup
off the sediment which has fallen to the bottom of the dish.
Stir into it while it is cold the whites of two eggs beaten
enough to break them. Place it on the fire and stir it until
it comes to the boiling-point; the egg will then be cooked and
have imprisoned any particles which clouded the soup.
Let it boil violently for a few minutes, then draw it to the
// 070.png
.pn +1
side of the range. Strain it again through a cloth. Heat it
again before serving it.
In summer this soup is sometimes served cold in the form
of jelly. In this case the bone of the knuckle of veal must
be cooked with it in order to make it jelly. Care must be
taken that during the cooking the water only simmers, for
if it boils lime will be extracted from the bone and it will
be impossible to have a clear soup.
.sp 2
.h3
CONSOMMÉ OF CHICKEN
.sp 1
Place a fowl in a soup pot with four quarts of cold water
and let it come slowly to the boiling-point, then draw it to
the side of the range and let it simmer for five or six hours.
If it is allowed to boil the soup will be clouded by lime extracted
from the bones.
An hour before removing it add an onion, a branch of
celery, a tablespoon of salt, and six peppercorns. Strain it
through a cloth, and when cold remove the grease. Clear it
the same as the beef consommé.
A knuckle of veal may also be used with this soup if a
jellied stock is wanted to serve cold.
.sp 2
.h3
CLAM BROTH
.sp 1
Boil clams in their own liquor for twenty minutes. Let
the liquid settle before pouring it off. Season it with pepper
and serve it very hot in cups, with a teaspoonful of whipped
cream on the top of each cupful. About two dozen clams
will give a quart of liquor.
.sp 2
.h3
CLAM BISQUE
.sp 1
Boil a pint of clams in their own liquor. Chop the clams
very fine and return them to the fire with the clam liquor,
// 071.png
.pn +1
a quart of soup stock (chicken or veal stock preferred), half
a cupful of uncooked rice, a sprig of parsley, and a bay-leaf.
Boil until the rice is tender, then strain the soup through a
purée sieve, pressing through as much of the clams and rice
as possible. Strain a second time. Just before serving,
heat it, add a cupful of cream, and beat the whole with an
egg-whip.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM OF CLAMS
.sp 1
Steam twenty-five clams and as soon as they open remove
them from the shells and strain off the liquor. Chop the
clams, pound them in a mortar, and rub as much of them as
possible through a purée sieve. Put three cupfuls of milk
into a double boiler, cook two tablespoonfuls of butter and
two tablespoonfuls of flour together, but do not let them
brown, then add to the cooked butter and flour a little of the
milk from the boiler to make a smooth paste, put the paste
into the milk in the double boiler, and stir the mixture until it
is a little thickened. When ready to serve add two cupfuls of
clam liquor and the pulp which has passed through the sieve.
Let it get hot, but do not let it boil or it will curdle. Season
with salt, if necessary, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. At
the moment of serving add a cupful of cream and beat the
whole well with an egg-whip. This receipt makes a quart and
a half of soup.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM OF OYSTERS
.sp 1
Prepare the same as the Cream of Clams.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM SOUPS
.sp 1
Any vegetable pulp can be used for creamed soups after
the rule given for Cream of Spinach.
// 072.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM OF SPINACH
.sp 1
Boil spinach until tender, then drain it. Chop it and rub
it through a purée sieve. To two cupfuls of vegetable pulp
add a quart of soup stock, or a quart of milk, or half stock
and half milk. Rub together a tablespoonful of butter and
two tablespoonfuls of flour. Put this into the soup on the fire
and stir all together until the soup is a little thickened. Season
it with pepper and salt and add a half or a whole cupful
of cream. Beat it well with an egg-whip and serve at
once. If the soup is too thick dilute it with a little stock or
milk. It should have the consistency of cream.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM OF CELERY
.sp 1
This is prepared in the same manner as the Cream of
Spinach, using celery pulp instead of spinach. The roots
of the celery as well as the stalks should be boiled to make
the pulp.
// 073.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch04
Chapter IV||THIRD COURSE
.nf c
EGGS
.nf-
// 074.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 2
.nf c
EGGS
.nf-
.in +4
.nf l
Plain French Omelet
Beaten Omelet
Omelet Chasseur
Eggs à la Romaine
Eggs baked in Tomatoes
Eggs baked in Green Peppers
Scrambled Eggs with Tomato
Creamed Poached Eggs
Creamed Egg Baskets
Poached Eggs with Greens
Eggs in Nests
Eggs Farci, No. 1
Eggs Farci, No. 2
Eggs with Giblet Sauce
Eggs à l’Aurore
Scrambled Eggs with Brains
.nf-
.in 0
.sp 2
.pb
.if h
.il fn=fig-029.jpg w=600px cj=l
.ca
NO. 29.
1. EGGS À LA ROMAINE.
2. EGGS BAKED IN TOMATOES.
3. EGGS BAKED IN GREEN PEPPERS.
4. SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATOES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 29.
1. EGGS À LA ROMAINE.
2. EGGS BAKED IN TOMATOES.
3. EGGS BAKED IN GREEN PEPPERS.
4. SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATOES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 075.png
.pn +1
.h3
EGGS
.sp 1
Egg dishes are especially useful for luncheon, as they
are easily and quickly prepared, are always liked, and can
be served in a great variety of ways. They may be used as
a first course, or in the order named in the list.
.sp 2
.h3
TO POACH EGGS
.sp 1
Drop the eggs into water just off the boiling-point. Let
them cook slowly until the whites are like jelly, but not until
hard. Muffin-rings may be used to keep them in good
shape.
.sp 2
.h3
TO POACH EGGS IN FRENCH STYLE
.sp 1
Use a large saucepan and have it two thirds full of water.
Add a tablespoonful of vinegar. When the water boils
stir it with the handle of a wooden spoon until it whirls,
then drop quickly a fresh egg into the depression or eddy
of the whirling water. This will give the egg a rounded
shape. When the white is set and before the yolk has hardened,
remove the egg with a skimmer and place it on a dish
to drain. Only one egg at a time can be cooked in this way.
Trim the eggs carefully, cutting away all the ragged white.
.sp 2
.h3
TO SCRAMBLE EGGS
.sp 1
Add a tablespoonful of milk, a saltspoonful of salt, and a
dash of pepper for every two eggs. Beat them just enough
to break them, but not enough to make them smooth or
// 076.png
.pn +1
frothy. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a sauté-pan, and
when it bubbles turn in the eggs. With a fork scrape the
cooked eggs from the bottom of the pan, giving flakes of
cooked egg. If the butter is not allowed to brown, the eggs
will have a clean, bright yellow color.
.sp 2
.h3
PLAIN FRENCH OMELET
.sp 1
Add a tablespoonful of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt,
and a dash of pepper to three or four eggs. Beat them just
enough to break them. Put a tablespoonful of butter into
a clean, smooth sauté-pan. When the butter bubbles turn in
the eggs. When the eggs are a little set on the bottom, tip
the pan a little towards the handle, and with a fork stir
the mixture on the handle half of the pan, lifting the cooked
portion off the bottom in large flakes. When the mixture
is all cooked, but still soft, pile the scrambled part on to the
smooth half, making it high in the center. Turn the omelet
on to a hot dish. This should give a smooth outside surface
of egg, covering the softer inside portion, which is scrambled
in large flakes. It is not well to make an omelet of more
than three or four eggs. If more is needed, make a second
omelet.
.sp 2
.h3
BEATEN OMELET
.sp 1
Beat the whites of three or four eggs to a stiff froth. Add
to the yolks a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and
a tablespoonful of milk. Beat them well together, then fold
in lightly the whipped whites. Put a teaspoonful of butter
in a sauté-pan and let it run all over the bottom. When it
bubbles turn in the egg mixture and spread it evenly over the
pan. Let it cook slowly without stirring until it seems
cooked through, then place it in the oven for a few minutes
// 077.png
// 078.png
// 079.png
.pn +1
to harden the top surface. Fold one half over the other
and turn the omelet on to a hot dish.
.if h
.il fn=fig-028.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 28. OMELET CHASSEUR.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 28. OMELET CHASSEUR.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
OMELET CHASSEUR
.sp 1
Make either a French or a beaten omelet. Before folding
it, place in the center some well-seasoned or creamed minced
chicken, or other meat. Fold the omelet and turn it on to a
dish. Cover the top with well-seasoned tomato. The tomato
should be dry enough to hold its place, leaving a border of
yellow egg between the tomato and the meat.
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Eggs à la romaine. Cut sliced bread into rounds and
sauté them in butter. Place on each one an artichoke bottom which has
been heated in hot water. On the artichoke place an egg poached in the
French style (see page #51#). Arrange the eggs around a mound of green
peas, and pour over the eggs a white sauce made partly of chicken
stock, with the yolk of an egg beaten in the last thing.
.ti -6
No. 2. Eggs baked in tomatoes. Select round tomatoes of uniform
size. Cut off the stem ends and take out enough of the pulp to leave a
space as large as an egg. Sprinkle the inside with salt and pepper.
Drop into each one an egg. Place the filled tomatoes in a baking-dish
with a little hot water, and bake them about fifteen minutes, or until
the eggs are set and the tomatoes are a little softened. Serve the
eggs on rounds of bread browned in butter. No sauce is required with
this dish.
.ti -6
No. 3. Eggs baked in green peppers. Select green peppers of
uniform size and shape. Cut off the stems close to the
// 080.png
.pn +1
peppers so they will stand firmly. Take off the tops and remove the
seeds and ribs. Parboil them. Remove them from the water as soon as
they are a little tender, and before they become limp. Break an egg
into each one. Set them in a baking-pan with a little hot water, and
bake them slowly about fifteen minutes, or until the eggs are set.
Arrange them on rounds of browned bread with white sauce in the dish.
.ti -6
No. 4. Scrambled eggs with tomato. Place scrambled eggs on
rounds of browned bread, and on the top of each piece place a slice of
broiled tomato (see page #97#). Serve with or without a white sauce.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-030.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 30. CREAMED POACHED EGGS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 30. CREAMED POACHED EGGS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
CREAMED POACHED EGGS
.sp 1
Poach eggs, the French style preferred. Lay them on
rounds of bread sautéd in butter. Arrange them symmetrically
and pour over them a plentiful amount of white sauce
made partly of stock, and having the yolk of one or two eggs
stirred in after it is taken from the fire. Garnish the dish
with a large bunch of parsley, or a bunch of nasturtiums.
The dish may be varied by placing a very thin slice of
broiled ham under each egg; or the eggs may be covered with
a tomato sauce.
.if h
.il fn=fig-031.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 31. CREAMED EGG BASKETS ON BEAN PURÉE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 31. CREAMED EGG BASKETS ON BEAN PURÉE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
CREAMED EGG BASKETS
.sp 1
Boil the eggs hard. Cut them in two lengthwise and remove
the yolks. Drop the whites into hot water so they will
be warm when needed for use. Mash the yolks and mix them
with a little white sauce, or with stock, or with cream and
a little butter and salt. Beat the mixture until it is smooth
// 081.png
// 082.png
// 083.png
.pn +1
and light. Press the paste through a pastry-bag and star
tube into the hollows of the white halves, and insert handles
made of thin slices of celery cut from the green ends.
Arrange the little baskets on a bed of any kind of well-seasoned
vegetable.
In illustration the center is bean purée (see page #98#)
pressed through a pastry-bag.
.if h
.il fn=fig-032.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 32. POACHED EGGS WITH GREENS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 32. POACHED EGGS WITH GREENS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
POACHED EGGS WITH GREENS
.sp 1
Boil green leaves of lettuce until tender, drain them, chop
them fine, and season with a little white sauce. Cover rounds
of bread, which have been browned in butter, with the lettuce;
or, if more convenient, with well-seasoned creamed
spinach. Make nests of the green, leaving the edges of the
toast clean, with a border one half inch wide around the
depression. Place in each one an egg poached in the French
style; or break an uncooked egg into each hollow, and place
them in the oven until the eggs are set.
.sp 2
.h3
EGGS IN NESTS
.sp 1
Whip to a stiff froth the whites of as many eggs as are
needed. Pile it irregularly on a flat, buttered baking-dish,
and make depressions in it here and there. Sprinkle the hollows
with salt and pepper and drop into each one the yolk
of an egg. Put a small piece of butter on each yolk. Place
the dish in a moderate oven for five to eight minutes. Serve
at once.
The yolks can be conveniently kept in the half shells until
needed.
.if h
.il fn=fig-033.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 33. SPANISH EGGS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 33. SPANISH EGGS.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 084.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
SPANISH EGGS
.sp 1
Cover the bottom of an earthen baking-dish with well-seasoned
tomato purée. Arrange on it poached eggs, leaving
spaces to show the red color. Lay between the eggs whole
small sausages, already cooked, or sausages cut in inch
lengths. Place a bit of butter on each egg and set the dish
in the oven to heat it only.
.if h
.il fn=fig-034.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 34. EGGS FARCI, NO. 1.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 34. EGGS FARCI, NO. 1.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-035.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 35. EGGS FARCI, NO. 2.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 35. EGGS FARCI, NO. 2.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
EGGS FARCI
.sp 1
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Boil until hard as many eggs as are needed. Cut them in two
lengthwise. Remove the yolks and mash them. To six yolks add four
tablespoonfuls of crumb of bread, softened with water, one half
teaspoonful of onion juice, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley.
Mix well. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan on the fire, add
the egg mixture with enough milk or stock to moisten it, but not
enough to make it lose consistency. Season with salt, pepper, and a
dash of nutmeg. A mushroom or a chicken liver chopped fine added to
the farce improves its flavor. Fill the whites of the eggs with the
farce, and with what is left make a mound on the serving-dish. Pour a
white sauce over it and arrange the stuffed eggs on it; or cut the
eggs in two crosswise and fill the cups with farce, molding it to
look like whole yolks. Cut a small slice off the ends so they will
stand. Arrange them on a dish with white sauce around them.
.ti -6
No. 2. Boil until hard a dozen eggs, cut them in two lengthwise and
remove the yolks. Place the whites in cold water to keep them white
until ready to use them. Put in a chopping-bowl the breast of a fowl
which
// 085.png
// 086.png
// 087.png
.pn +1
has been boiled for chicken stock, the yolks of the
boiled eggs, two fresh mushrooms sautéd, one half
of a truffle, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley,
and two tablespoonfuls of crumb of bread. Chop
all together to a fine mince. Place in a saucepan
two tablespoonfuls of butter and a teaspoonful
of onion juice. When the butter bubbles add the
chopped mixture moistened with enough chicken
stock to make it of the right consistency for filling
the egg cups. Season it with two teaspoonfuls of salt,
one half teaspoonful of pepper, and a dash of nutmeg,
and stir until it is hot. Place the whites in hot
water to heat them, then fill each one with the hot
farce, rounding it to look like a whole yolk.
Make a sauce as follows. Beat the yolks of two
eggs enough to break them, stir them into a cupful
of cream, and add this to the farce left after filling
the cups. Stir it over the fire long enough to set the
eggs. If not soft enough, add stock to make it the
consistency of thick cream. Pour this sauce on a
platter and arrange the stuffed eggs on it in lines or
in circles.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-036.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 36. EGGS WITH GIBLET SAUCE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 36. EGGS WITH GIBLET SAUCE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 3. With giblet sauce. Prepare eggs as in No. 1. Add
chopped giblets to a brown sauce. Spread the sauce
on a dish and place the stuffed eggs upon it.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-037.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 37. EGGS À L’AURORE IN CUPS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 37. EGGS À L’AURORE IN CUPS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
EGGS À L’AURORE
.sp 1
Chop the whites of hard-boiled eggs into fine dice. Mix
them with enough white sauce to make them creamy. Crumb
the yolks by pressing them through a coarse sieve or a colander,
and spread them over the creamed whites.
// 088.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH CALVES’ BRAINS
.sp 1
To a pair of calves’ brains use three or four eggs. Scald
the brains by letting them lie in scalding water six or eight
minutes. Trim them and cut them into half-inch dice. Put
them in a sauté-pan with a tablespoonful of butter and cook
them until they look white, then add the beaten eggs and
stir them all together, using a fork, until the eggs are cooked.
Add one half teaspoonful of salt and one quarter teaspoonful
of pepper.
For other egg dishes, see “Century Cook Book,” page 261.
// 089.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch05
Chapter V||FOURTH COURSE
.nf c
SHELL-FISH—LOBSTERS—FISH
.nf-
// 090.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 4
.h3
SHELL-FISH—LOBSTERS—FISH
.sp 2
.nf l
Sautéd Oysters
Fried Oysters with Cold Slaw
Oysters à la Newburg
Fried Scallops
Scallops on the Shell
Creamed Lobster
Broiled Lobster
Broiled Smelts
Broiled Shad Roe
Shad Roe Croquettes
Fillets of Fish, Fried
Rolled Fillets of Flounder
Baked Fillets of Fish with Sauce
Fillets of Fish with Mushrooms
Creamed Fish Garnished with Potatoes
Fish à la Japonnaise
.nf-
// 091.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h3
SAUTÉD OYSTERS
.sp 1
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a sauté-pan; when
it is hot add as many drained oysters as will make two cupfuls.
Add a little salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of
lemon juice. Shake them in the pan until the gills are
curled, then add a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine.
Turn them upon slices of toasted bread on a hot platter.
.if h
.il fn=fig-038.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 38. FRIED OYSTERS WITH COLD SLAW.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 38. FRIED OYSTERS WITH COLD SLAW.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
FRIED OYSTERS WITH COLD SLAW
Use box oysters. These are large in size and cost two cents
each.
Lay the oysters on a cloth to dry them. Roll them in
cracker dust, then in egg diluted with a little milk and
seasoned with pepper and salt, then again cover them with
cracker dust. Lay them in a frying-basket and fry them
in smoking-hot fat just long enough to give them a light-brown
color. Oysters toughen if cooked too long. Prepare
only four at a time, as more lower the temperature of the
fat too much, and if they are rolled before the moment of
frying they moisten the cracker dust. Place them on a paper
on the hot shelf until all are done.
Fold a small napkin and place it in the center of a cold
platter. Pile the oysters on the napkin and make a wreath
around them of cold slaw.
.sp 2
.h3
COLD SLAW
Cut cabbage into fine shreds. Put in a saucepan a half
cupful of weak vinegar, the yolks of three eggs, a half teaspoonful
// 092.png
.pn +1
of English mustard, a dash of pepper, a teaspoonful
of salt and of sugar. Beat them together, then place them
on the fire and stir until the mixture is thickened. Pour
it, while hot, over the cabbage and set it away to cool.
.sp 2
.h3
OYSTERS À LA NEWBURG
Place twenty-five large oysters in a saucepan with one
and one half tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of white
wine or a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and a little pepper
and salt. Cook until the oysters are plump, then add half a
cupful of mushrooms cut into quarters, and a chopped truffle,
if convenient. Beat the yolks of four eggs into a cupful of
cream, turn it into the oyster mixture, and let it get hot and
a little thickened, without boiling. Turn it into a hot dish
and garnish with croutons.
Oysters toughen if cooked too long, and cream curdles
easily when added to a mixture which has acid in it, so it is
necessary to prepare this dish quickly and to serve it at once.
.sp 2
.h3
SCALLOPS
Scallops are the adductor muscle of a large pecten, a mollusk
commonly known as scallop.
.sp 2
.h3
FRIED SCALLOPS
Marinate the scallops in a mixture of oil, lemon juice, salt,
and pepper. Roll them in cracker dust, then in egg, and again
in cracker dust or white bread crumbs. Fry them in smoking-hot
fat to a golden color.
Prepare but a few at a time so the covering will not be
dampened, serve on a napkin with quarters of lemon, and
sprinkle over them parsley chopped very fine.
// 093.png
// 094.png
// 095.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
SCALLOPS ON THE SHELL
Discard the black ring. Cut the scallops into quarters.
Place them in the scallop shells. Dredge them with salt,
pepper, and chopped parsley, then cover them with a layer
of chopped fresh, or canned, mushrooms, some bits of butter,
a teaspoonful of white wine or of lemon juice, for each
shell, and lastly with bread crumbs moistened with butter.
Place them in a hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes.
.if h
.il fn=fig-039.jpg w=600px id=fig-039
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NO. 39. CREAMED LOBSTER.
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[Illustration: NO. 39. CREAMED LOBSTER.]
.sp 2
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.sp 2
.h3
CREAMED LOBSTER
Cut the meat of boiled lobster into inch dice. Put a tablespoonful
of butter in a saucepan with a teaspoonful of grated
onion, let them cook a minute, then add a tablespoonful of
flour. Stir for a few minutes to cook the flour, and then add
slowly a cupful of stock and a tablespoonful of lemon juice,
or a quarter of a cupful of white wine. When all this
thickens add the lobster meat, turning it carefully so as not
to break it. When the meat is heated remove it from the
fire and mix in a quarter of a cupful of cream which has the
yolk of an egg beaten in it. Replace it on the fire for just a
minute.
Serve in fontage cups or as in illustration #No. 39:fig-039#.
For Lobster Newburg and other lobster dishes, see “Century
Cook Book,” page 136.
.sp 2
.h3
BROILED LOBSTER
Parboil a lobster. As soon as it begins to turn red take it
out. Split it in two down the back. Remove and discard
the stomach and intestine. Remove the green and the coral.
Broil it fifteen to twenty minutes with the shell side to the
fire, but turn the flesh side to the coals for a minute before
removing it, then at once season it with butter, pepper, and
salt.
// 096.png
.pn +1
Mix the green, which is the liver, and the coral with melted
butter and use it as a sauce.
.sp 2
.h3
BROILED SMELTS
Select large smelts of equal size. Have them split down
the back, the head and tail left on. Dip them in melted butter
and broil them until they are tender. Lay them evenly
on a hot dish and spread them with maître d’hôtel butter
(see page #103:fig-048#).
If convenient, arrange a wreath of watercress around the
dish.
.sp 2
.h3
BROILED SHAD ROE
Wash and dry the roes, then broil them very slowly and
keep them moistened with butter to prevent the skin from
breaking. They may also be cooked by sautéing them in butter;
or they may be baked in the oven with a little stock or
water in the pan to baste them with. Cook them brown.
Cover the top with butter, pepper, salt, and a little lemon
juice, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley. Garnish
with lemon and watercress and serve some of the watercress
with each portion. Serve them with maître d’hôtel butter.
.sp 2
.h3
SHAD ROE CROQUETTES
Boil shad roes in salted, acidulated water for fifteen minutes,
letting the water simmer only, so that the skin will not
break. When they are cold cut them, using a sharp knife,
into slices one and one half inches thick. Sprinkle them with
salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Roll them first in egg, then
in bread crumbs or cracker dust, and fry them in smoking-hot
fat to a light brown color. Garnish with watercress and
serve them with maître d’hôtel butter.
// 097.png
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NO. 40. BROILED SMELTS.
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[Illustration: NO. 40. BROILED SMELTS.]
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NO. 41. BROILED SHAD ROE.
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[Illustration: NO. 41. BROILED SHAD ROE.]
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.il fn=fig-042.jpg w=600px
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NO. 42. SHAD ROE CROQUETTES.
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[Illustration: NO. 42. SHAD ROE CROQUETTES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 098.png
// 099.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
FILLETS OF FISH
Fillets of fish are the flesh of the fish freed from the skin
and bones. (See “Century Cook Book,” page 112.) The
fillets of flounder are used to imitate sole, a variety of fish
much esteemed in France and England. Sheepshead and
other smaller fish also make good fillets.
.sp 2
.h3
FRIED FILLETS OF FISH
Marinate the fillets by letting them lie in a mixture of oil,
salt, pepper, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. Take the
fillets from the marinade, roll them first in flour, then in
egg, and then in white bread crumbs grated from the loaf.
Fry them to a lemon color in smoking-hot fat. They must
not be cooked too long or they will become dry. They may
also be cooked by sautéing, using half butter and half lard.
Prepare one fillet at a time, for the covering of flour and
crumbs will become damp if it stands long, and then will
not crisp. If the fillets are small, serve them piled in crossed
layers on a napkin and garnish with quarters of lemon.
If they are large, serve with maître d’hôtel butter or with
tartare sauce and garnish with watercress.
.sp 2
.h3
ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER
Sprinkle each fillet with salt and pepper. Spread it with
a mixture made of butter, lemon juice, and parsley cut in
pieces, not chopped fine. Fold the fillet over, roll it, and
fasten it with a wooden toothpick or small skewer. Stand
the rolled fillets on end in a baking-pan, put a piece of butter
on the top of each one, and pour over the whole a half cupful
of white cooking wine (California sauterne). Bake them
in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, or until tender, and
baste them frequently. Arrange the fillets symmetrically on
a platter. Put a piece of parsley in the top of each one, and
// 100.png
.pn +1
place in the center of the dish a lemon cut into the shape of
a basket. Sprinkle the exposed pulp of the lemon with
chopped parsley.
Make a sauce to serve with the fish as follows: Add to the
drippings, in the pan in which the fish was cooked, a tablespoonful
of flour, stir constantly until the flour is cooked,
then add enough stock to make a creamy sauce. Add pepper
and salt if necessary.
.sp 2
.h3
BAKED FILLETS OF FISH WITH SAUCE
Arrange evenly on a baking-platter fillets of flounder or
of sheepshead, or slices of halibut or codfish cut one quarter
of an inch thick. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper.
Make a sauce as follows: Put a tablespoonful of butter
in a saucepan, add to it a half teaspoonful of onion juice,
cook until the butter has browned, then add a tablespoonful
of flour and stir until the flour has browned. Take it off
the fire and add very slowly one and a half cupfuls of soup
stock, stirring constantly to keep the mixture smooth. Add
a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine, a teaspoonful
of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of salt, one half teaspoonful
of pepper, and, if convenient, a teaspoonful of mushroom
catsup, or a half cupful of liquor from a can of mushrooms,
or a half cupful of juice strained from a can of
tomatoes. Pour the sauce over the fish, lifting the fillets a
little to let the sauce run under them. Place the dish in the
oven and cook for thirty minutes, or until the fish is tender.
If the sauce dries away too much, baste the fish with stock.
The cooked sauce should have the consistency of cream.
When taken from the oven sprinkle the top with bread
crumbs browned in butter and ornament with mashed
potato pressed through a pastry-bag and star tube, making
a design that will cover the edges of the platter where the
sauce has stained it. Set the hot platter on a second platter
to serve.
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.il fn=fig-043.jpg w=600px cj=l
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NO. 43. ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER. A PIECE OF PARSLEY PLACED IN THE\
TOP OF EACH ONE; A LEMON BASKET IN CENTER\ AND QUARTERS OF LEMON\
BETWEEN THE FILLETS.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 43. ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER. A PIECE OF PARSLEY PLACED
IN THE TOP OF EACH ONE; A LEMON BASKET IN CENTER
AND QUARTERS OF LEMON BETWEEN THE FILLETS.]
.sp 2
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.il fn=fig-044.jpg w=600px
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NO. 44. BAKED FILLETS OF FISH WITH MUSHROOMS.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 44. BAKED FILLETS OF FISH WITH MUSHROOMS.]
.sp 2
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.il fn=fig-045.jpg w=600px
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NO. 45. CREAMED FISH GARNISHED WITH POTATO.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 45. CREAMED FISH GARNISHED WITH POTATO.]
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.il fn=fig-046.jpg w=600px id=fig-046
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NO. 46. FISH À LA JAPONNAISE, PREPARED FOR BAKING AND\
SHOWING HOW IT MAY BE GARNISHED.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 46. FISH À LA JAPONNAISE, PREPARED FOR BAKING AND
SHOWING HOW IT MAY BE GARNISHED.]
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.il fn=fig-047.jpg w=600px
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NO. 47. SLICED CUCUMBER AROUND A MOUND OF ICE. TO SERVE WITH FISH.
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[Illustration: NO. 47. SLICED CUCUMBER AROUND A MOUND OF ICE. TO SERVE WITH FISH.]
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// 103.png
.pn +1
Creamed hashed fish can be served in the same manner.
After the fish has been mixed with the sauce spread it
smoothly on the baking-platter, cover the top with buttered
bread crumbs, and set it in the oven to brown.
.sp 2
.h3
FILLETS OF FISH WITH MUSHROOMS
Take fillets of flounder, season them with pepper and
salt. Take half a can or more of mushrooms, a slice of onion,
and a sprig of parsley, and chop them all fine; add a cupful
of stock and a tablespoonful of sherry. Spread a part of this
mixture on the bottom of a platter that can be used in the
oven. Lay the fillets of fish on the mixture. Cover them
with the rest of the mixture, then with bread crumbs and
with small pieces of butter. Bake forty minutes or until the
fillets are tender. Heat the rest of the mushrooms in a little
stock. Place them around the edges of the dish and pour the
stock over the whole if the fillets are at all dry. This dish
should be very moist.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAMED FISH GARNISHED WITH POTATOES
Make a good white sauce, or any other sauce preferred.
Cut cold boiled fish in pieces one or two inches across and
heat them in the sauce without breaking them. Use a plentiful
amount of the sauce. Turn the fish mixture on to a platter
and sprinkle over the top a little parsley chopped very fine.
Season some mashed potato with salt, butter, and milk,
and beat it until it is light and white. Press it through a
pastry-bag with star tube into rosettes, forming a wreath
around the creamed fish.
.sp 2
.h3
FISH À LA JAPONNAISE
Make a creamed mince of any kind of fish, or use a fish
forcemeat. Canned salmon is very good for the purpose.
// 104.png
.pn +1
Place the creamed fish on a piece of stiff paper and mold
it into the form of a fish. Roll some pie paste very thin.
Lay a piece of the paste on one end of the mince and shape
it into the form of a fish’s tail. Cut the paste into circles
of half an inch diameter, using a pastry-tube if a small
vegetable-cutter is not at hand. Beginning at the tail, cover
the molded fish with little rounds of paste, placing them in
even overlapping layers to imitate scales, and mold a piece
of pastry to imitate a head and fins. Use half a cranberry
or a turned vegetable to imitate an eye. Brush the paste
over lightly with yolk of egg and place it in the oven to
brown. Slip it carefully off the baking-sheet on to the serving
platter. Trim off the paper that projects and garnish.
Illustration #No. 46:fig-046# shows a fish ready to bake and the manner
in which it may be garnished.
// 105.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch06
Chapter VI||FIFTH OR SEVENTH COURSE
.nf c
ENTRÉES
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.sp 4
.pb
// 106.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.h3
ENTRÉES
.sp 2
.nf l
Rissoles
Vol-au-vent
Sweetbreads, Baked
Sweetbreads, Glazed
Sweetbreads, Coquilles of
Calf’s Brains à la Poulette
Calf’s Brains à l’Aurore
Calf’s Brains with Hollandaise Sauce
Calf’s Brains with Black Butter
Croquettes
Timbales of Chicken
Timbales of Liver
Mushrooms, Baked
Mushrooms, Stuffed
Tomatoes, Stuffed
Green Peppers, Stuffed
Baked Tomatoes and Fontage Cups
Jardinière
Vegetarian Dish
.nf-
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
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.il fn=fig-049.jpg w=600px
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NO. 49. RISSOLES.
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[Illustration: NO. 49. RISSOLES.]
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// 106.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
RISSOLES
Roll puff paste about one eighth of an inch thick. Put
a teaspoonful of meat of any kind at intervals on the paste,
about three inches from the edge. Moisten the paste around
the meat-ball, fold over the paste, and press it lightly around
the meat. Stamp it with a fluted biscuit-cutter into half circles,
leaving the meat on the straight side and an inch of
paste around the meat on the round side. Egg the top and
bake from fifteen to twenty minutes in a hot oven.
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NO. 50. VOL-AU-VENT.
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[Illustration: NO. 50. VOL-AU-VENT.]
.sp 2
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.h3
VOL-AU-VENT
Roll puff paste (see page #154#) three quarters of an inch
to an inch in thickness. Stamp it with a cutter, or if this
is not convenient use a tin, of the size desired, for a gage;
lay the tin lightly on the paste, and with a sharp knife cut
around it with a quick, firm stroke so as to press the paste
as little as possible; then with a sharp-pointed knife cut a
ring around the form, leaving a border about an inch wide,
and do not let the knife penetrate the paste more than an
eighth of an inch. Brush the top with the yolk of an egg,
diluted with a little water, and set it away to cool. Bake
it in a hot oven as directed for puff paste for thirty minutes,
and do not open the oven door during the first fifteen minutes.
It should rise to about three times its original thickness.
When it is well dried and a good light-brown color, remove
it from the oven and let it stand for a few minutes, then
carefully lift out the centerpiece and remove all the uncooked
// 108.png
.pn +1
paste. Set it in the oven again to dry the inside.
The uncooked pieces can also be returned to the oven for
a few minutes, and when dry be put back into the shell.
Although puff paste is better when used at once, it will
keep very well for several days, and will be perfectly crisp
and tender if well heated in the oven just before being
used.
When ready to serve fill the center with any salpicon,
place the little cover on top, and set the vol-au-vent on a
lace-paper. The filling must not be put in until just before
sending it to the table, as it will soften the pastry if it stands
in it for any length of time.
.sp 2
.h3
SALPICON
For filling vol-au-vent or patty shells.
Salpicon is made of cooked chicken, sweetbreads, veal, or
calf’s brains cut into small dice, mixed with mushrooms, a
little chopped truffle and chopped tongue. One meat alone,
or a combination of two or more, may be used. The mixture
is then combined with enough good sauce to make it creamy.
A white sauce should be used with white meats; a brown
sauce when the dark meat and livers of chicken are used.
(See “Century Cook Book,” pages 80-299.)
A plain white sauce is made as follows: Put a tablespoonful
of butter in a saucepan. When the butter is hot add a
tablespoonful of flour and cook them together for a few minutes,
not letting them brown; remove from the fire and add a
cupful of stock. Add the liquor very slowly at first, stirring
constantly to keep it smooth. Return the sauce to the fire,
add a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper,
and a little cream, if convenient. Stir constantly until the
sauce is thickened. Lastly, add the beaten yolks of one or
two eggs to the sauce after it has been taken off the fire.
// 109.png
// 110.png
// 111.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
SWEETBREADS
Sweetbreads are the thymus gland and the pancreas of
calves and lambs. They are commonly called by butchers
the throat and the stomach, or heart, sweetbreads. The
former is the larger, the latter is the whiter, rounder, and
more delicate.
.sp 2
.h3
TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS
Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for two hours, changing
the water several times. Put them on the fire in cold water.
When they are whitened and firm to the touch, or parboiled,
remove and immerse them again in cold water to blanch them.
Remove all the pipes, fibers, and fatty substance. Roll each
one in a piece of cheese-cloth, draw the cloth tight and tie
it at the ends, pressing the sweetbread into an oval shape.
Place them under a light weight for several hours.
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NO. 51. BAKED SWEETBREADS WITH SALT PORK ON TOP.
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[Illustration: NO. 51. BAKED SWEETBREADS WITH SALT PORK ON TOP.]
.sp 2
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.sp 2
.h3
BAKED SWEETBREADS
Parboil and blanch the sweetbreads. Marinate them by
standing them for two hours in a mixture of one beaten egg,
a teaspoonful of onion juice, one half teaspoonful of salt,
one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful
of chopped parsley. Turn them in the marinade occasionally
so they will absorb the seasoning. Roll them in
cracker dust and place them in a pan on very thin slices
of salt pork, and place a thin slice of pork on top of each
one. Bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes, or until
they are tender and brown. The pork will crisp and the
sweetbread will brown around it.
Serve with a sauce made as follows: Brown a little flour
in the drippings left in the pan, then add a little water or
stock, a little lemon juice, and what is left of the marinade.
// 112.png
.pn +1
Stir it until it has the consistency of thick cream and strain
it on to the platter. Place the sweetbreads upon the sauce.
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NO. 52. GLAZED SWEETBREADS.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 52. GLAZED SWEETBREADS.]
.sp 2
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.sp 2
.h3
GLAZED SWEETBREADS
.sp 2
Place sweetbreads, prepared as directed on page #73#, in a
sauté-pan with butter and a few slices of onion. Sauté
them for a few minutes on both sides, then place them in
the oven to finish cooking. Put a little stock in the baking-pan
and baste them frequently to brown and glaze them.
Serve them as in illustration, or place them around a pile of
green peas.
.sp 2
.h3
COQUILLES OF SWEETBREADS
Parboil one pair of sweetbreads. Trim and put them under
a light weight to cool. When they are cold and firm cut
them into dice. Sauté them in a tablespoonful of butter for
a few minutes, then add a cupful of button mushrooms cut
in quarters, a tablespoonful of white wine or of lemon juice,
a dash of pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, and cook them
until tender, then add a white sauce as given below, and turn
over the mixture until it is creamy. Fill shells with the
mixture, cover the tops with white bread crumbs wet with
melted butter, and place them in the oven to brown.
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NO. 53. COQUILLES OF SWEETBREADS.
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[Illustration: NO. 53. COQUILLES OF SWEETBREADS.]
.sp 2
.if-
Chicken, turkey, or veal can be used instead of sweetbreads
in the same way.
Sauce: Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when
it bubbles, add a tablespoonful of flour. Cook the flour a
few minutes, but do not let it brown. Remove it from the fire
and add, while stirring all the time, a half cupful of stock,
chicken stock preferred, a dash of nutmeg and of pepper,
and a saltspoonful of salt. Put the saucepan on the fire
again and stir until the sauce has thickened, then add two
tablespoonfuls of cream.
// 113.png
// 114.png
// 115.png
.pn +1
Any pretty bivalve shell of suitable size may be used for
holding this or other creamed mixtures. The illustration
shows pecten and cardium shells.
.sp 2
.h3
TO PREPARE CALF’S BRAINS
Calf’s brains, in whatever way they are to be served, must
be prepared in the following manner: Soak the brains in
cold water for some time to extract all the blood. Trim them,
removing the membranes and fibers, without breaking the
brains apart. Place them in hot water with a bay-leaf, soup
vegetables, a few peppercorns, a teaspoonful of salt, and a
tablespoonful of vinegar. Cook them for half an hour, letting
the water simmer only. When done immerse them in
cold water to blanch them.
.sp 2
.h3
CALF’S BRAINS
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. À la poulette. Cut the brains in halves or quarters.
Arrange them in a circle around mushrooms and
pour over the whole a white sauce made partly of
stock, and the beaten yolks of two eggs with a little
cream added after the sauce is taken from the fire.
Garnish with croutons or cut the brains into large
dice, mix them with the same sauce, and serve them
in individual cups.
.ti -6
No. 2. À l’aurore. Cut the brains into dice; add the chopped
whites of three or four hard-boiled eggs to each pair
of brains. Add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped
very fine, and a saltspoonful of salt. Moisten with
white sauce and place the mixture in a baking-dish.
Cover the top with crumbed yolks, and over the yolks
spread a thin layer of white bread crumbs wet with
butter. Set the dish in the oven to brown the crumbs.
// 116.png
.pn +1
.ti -6
No. 3. With Hollandaise sauce. Cut the brains in halves.
Place each piece on a round of bread which has been
browned in butter. Pour over the whole a Hollandaise
sauce, or a white sauce to which has been added,
after taking it from the fire, the beaten yolk of an
egg and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine.
.ti -6
No. 4. With black butter. Cut the brains into thick slices.
Cook two tablespoonfuls of butter in a sauté-pan until
it is brown. Lay in the slices of brains and color them
on both sides. Arrange them in a dish, sprinkle them
with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Add a teaspoonful
of vinegar to the butter, and strain it over
the brains.
.in 0
.sp 2
.h3
CROQUETTES
Croquettes can be made of chicken or turkey or veal, alone,
but are much nicer when the meat is mixed with sweetbreads
or calf’s brains and mushrooms. The meat mixture
must be chopped very fine.
Make a sauce as follows:
Put a tablespoonful of butter and a half teaspoonful of
onion juice into a saucepan. When it bubbles add two tablespoonfuls
of flour and cook it a few minutes without browning,
then add slowly, so as to keep it smooth,
.in 6
.nf l
A cupful of jellied stock,
1 teaspoonful of salt,
1 saltspoonful of pepper,
A dash of paprika,
A dash of celery salt,
A dash of nutmeg.
.nf-
.in 0
Cook until the sauce has thickened a little. Remove it
from the fire, stir in a beaten egg and two cupfuls of minced
meat. Turn it on to a tin platter and place it on the ice to set.
// 117.png
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NO. 54. CHICKEN CROQUETTES.
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[Illustration: NO. 54. CHICKEN CROQUETTES.]
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NO. 55. TIMBALES OF CHICKEN.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 55. TIMBALES OF CHICKEN.]
.sp 2
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// 118.png
// 119.png
.pn +1
When the mixture is set mold the croquettes into shapes
pointed at one end. Cover them with egg diluted with a very
little water, to break the stringiness of the whites, then cover
them with bread crumbs. Crumbs grated from the loaf give
a better color than dried crumbs composed partly of crusts.
Fry the croquettes in smoking-hot fat to a light-brown color,
and until a thin crust is formed. Place them on paper in the
open oven to dry and keep hot until all are fried. Arrange
them symmetrically on a platter and stick a paper frill into
the pointed end of each one. These frills are fastened to a
little stick. They can be bought at confectioners’.
It is important to use for the sauce stock which jellies, as it
hardens the mixture and makes it easy to mold, while it
softens when the croquettes are fried, making them very
creamy. Stock will jelly if a knuckle of veal is used in making
it. If jellied stock is not at hand, put a level teaspoonful
of soaked gelatine into a cupful of any stock or of milk.
.sp 2
.h3
CHICKEN TIMBALES
Lay raw chicken breasts on a board and scrape off the meat,
thus separating it from the large fibers. Put the scraped
meat in a mortar with the white of an egg and pound it to
separate it still more from the fibers, then rub it through
a purée sieve.
Soak some crumb of bread with milk, stir it to a smooth
paste, and cook it until it leaves the sides of the pan. This
makes a panada.
Take a half cupful of the fine chicken meat, a quarter of a
cupful of panada, one egg, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash
of pepper and of nutmeg. Beat them all well together, then
fold in lightly a half cupful of cream whipped to a stiff
froth.
This quantity of material will make six individual timbales.
// 120.png
.pn +1
Butter the timbale molds well, ornament them with slices
of truffle cut into fancy shapes, or with chopped truffle
sprinkled over the surface. Put the mixture into the molds
carefully with a small spoon so as not to disarrange the
decoration, and fill them to within a quarter of an inch of
the top. Set them in a pan of hot water. Cover them with
a greased paper and poach them in the oven for five to eight
minutes, or until they are firm to the touch.
Turn the timbales on to a flat dish and pour around them a
white sauce made with chicken stock and the yolks of two
eggs diluted with two tablespoonfuls of cream added the
last thing. (See Allemande and Poulette sauces, “Century
Cook Book,” pages 279-280.)
.sp 2
.h3
LIVER TIMBALES
Cut two pounds of liver into large pieces and rub them
through a grater.
Moisten a half cupful of crumbs of bread and a half cupful
of flour with a cupful of milk.
Fry the slices of half an onion in a tablespoonful of
butter until they are tender, then remove them and turn into
the pan the mixture of bread, flour, and milk. Stir until it
is cooked to a smooth paste.
Put into a bowl two cupfuls of liver pulp, the bread paste,
a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a dash
of paprika. Mix them well together and add, one at a time,
four eggs, beating in each one well, then add enough cream
to make rather a thin batter. Pass the whole through a
purée sieve. Beat it well again and turn it into molds.
This amount of mixture will fill twelve individual timbale
molds and one pint mold, the latter to be used cold (see
page #127#).
Fill the individual timbale molds to within a quarter of an
inch of the top, set them into a pan of hot water, cover them
// 121.png
// 122.png
// 123.png
.pn +1
with a greased paper, and poach them in the oven for fifteen
to twenty minutes, or until firm to the touch.
Turn the timbales on to a flat dish and pour around them
a little good brown sauce. The molds may be ornamented,
if desired, the same as chicken timbales, using the white of
hard-boiled eggs instead of truffles.
For other timbale receipts, see “Century Cook Book,”
page 296.
.if h
.il fn=fig-056.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 56. BAKED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST. THE BREAD STAMPED IN LEAF SHAPES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 56. BAKED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST. THE BREAD STAMPED IN LEAF SHAPES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
BAKED MUSHROOMS
Cut the mushroom stems off even with the caps. Peel the
caps and stand them on a dish with the gills up. Sprinkle
them with pepper and salt and let them stand until moisture
gathers on them. Cut sliced bread with a biscuit-cutter into
rounds, or if convenient use a fancy cutter. Illustration
shows bread cut with a leaf-shaped stamp. Dip the pieces
of bread into water to moisten them, but do not let them
get soggy. Place them on a baking-tin and sprinkle with
pepper and salt and bits of butter. Arrange the mushrooms
on them, one or more according to size, with the gills up.
Bake about thirty minutes, or until tender.
Watch them carefully so they will not get overdone or too
dry. Baste with melted butter, if necessary, while they are
baking.
.sp 2
.h3
STUFFED MUSHROOMS
Cut the stems off close to the gills. Peel the caps. Cut the
stems fine. Sauté all the parts together in butter. Remove
the caps when they are tender and before they lose shape.
After the caps are removed add six drops of onion juice
and a teaspoonful of flour. Let the flour cook a few minutes
and then add a quarter of a cupful of stock and a tablespoonful
of minced chicken or livers, pepper, and salt, and
stir until the mixture is thickened.
// 124.png
.pn +1
Place a little of this mixture on the gills of each mushroom.
This quantity is enough for six or eight large caps.
Use the stuffed mushrooms for garnishing meat dishes, or
serve them separately as an entreé on rounds of bread
which have been browned in butter.
.if h
.il fn=fig-057.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 57. STUFFED TOMATOES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 57. STUFFED TOMATOES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
STUFFED TOMATOES
Select smooth, round tomatoes of equal size. Cut a slice
off the stem end. Remove carefully the pulp and fill the
shells with any of the mixtures given below. Cover the top
of the stuffing with bread crumbs moistened with melted
butter. Bake them about one half hour, or until they are
tender, but not fallen out of shape. Have a little water in
the bottom of the baking-pan. Use them for garnishing meat
dishes, or serve them on rounds of browned bread as an
entrée.
.sp 2
.h3
STUFFING FOR TOMATOES
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Chop fine a half cupful of canned mushrooms, add
a half or three quarters of a cupful of crumb of
bread and the pulp taken from six tomatoes, a tablespoonful
of chopped ham or of chicken, if convenient,
a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, six drops
of onion juice, a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper,
and a teaspoonful of melted butter. If the mixture
is not sufficiently moistened by the tomato juice add
enough stock to make it quite wet.
.ti -6
No. 2. Use equal parts of minced meat (chicken or veal
preferred) and crumb of bread, add the yolks of two
hard-boiled eggs. Season with chopped parsley, a little
onion juice, pepper, and salt. Moisten with the
pulp taken from the tomatoes, or with stock, or with
both of them.
// 125.png
// 126.png
// 127.png
.pn +1
.ti -6
No. 3. Use boiled rice mixed with chopped green peppers,
a few drops of onion juice, pepper, and salt. Moisten
with the pulp taken from the tomato, or with stock.
.ti -6
No. 4. Boil macaroni, broken into half-inch lengths, until
tender. Moisten it with well-seasoned white sauce,
and add some grated cheese, a little pepper and salt,
and a dash of paprika.
.in 0
.sp 2
.h3
STUFFED GREEN PEPPERS
Select green peppers of equal size. Cut a piece off the
stem end, or cut them lengthwise. Remove the seeds and
ribs. Parboil them, stuff them with any of the mixtures
given for stuffed tomatoes, using stock instead of tomato-pulp
for moistening. Bake with a little water in a pan for
fifteen to twenty minutes, or until they are tender, but not
so long as to allow them to lose their shape. Sprinkle a little
parsley chopped fine over the tops just before serving them.
.if h
.il fn=fig-058.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 58. BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES AND FONTAGE CUPS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 58. BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES AND FONTAGE CUPS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
BAKED TOMATOES AND FONTAGE CUPS
Place in the center of the dish stuffed tomatoes (see page
#80#) and place around them fontage cups filled with eggs
à l’aurore, as in illustration, or with any well-seasoned
vegetable, or minced meat. Put a handle made of celery
in each cup, to resemble a basket.
Eggs à l’aurore are chopped hard-boiled eggs moistened
with white sauce.
.if h
.il fn=fig-059.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 59. JARDINIÈRE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 59. JARDINIÈRE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
JARDINIÈRE
The illustration shows a variety of vegetables served together,
or à la jardinière.
This dish can be used as a course or vegetable entrée, and
is particularly appreciated where one has an abundance of
fresh vegetables from the garden. The vegetables should
// 128.png
.pn +1
be well seasoned and arranged with regard to color so as
to give a pleasing effect.
The combination used in the illustration is a cauliflower,
green peas, string beans, lima beans, corn, macedoine, and
baked tomatoes.
.if h
.il fn=fig-060.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 60. VEGETARIAN DISH. RING OF RICE FILLED WITH CORN. FONTAGE
CUPS HOLDING LIMA BEANS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 60. VEGETARIAN DISH. RING OF RICE FILLED WITH CORN. FONTAGE
CUPS HOLDING LIMA BEANS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
VEGETARIAN DISH
After boiling enough rice to fill a ring mold, steam it until
it is quite dry, and until the grains are separated. Mix the
rice with enough thick white sauce to moisten it. Butter a
ring-mold well and sprinkle it thickly with white bread
crumbs (crumbs grated from the loaf). Put in the prepared
rice and place the ring in a pan, the bottom of which is covered
with a very little water. Cover the top with greased
paper, and bake for half an hour, or until the crumbs are
brown. Turn the browned ring on a platter. Fill the center
with any vegetable, and place around the outside fontage
cups holding a second vegetable. In the illustration the
ring is filled with corn, and the cups hold small lima beans.
A good combination is baked tomatoes alternating with
fontage cups holding macedoine of vegetables, the ring holding
green peas.
The same style of dish may be made with meat. The ring
may be made with mashed potato and hold minced creamed
meat.
// 129.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.h2 id=ch07
Chapter VII||SIXTH COURSE
.nf c
MEATS
.nf-
// 130.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 4
.h3
MEATS
.sp 2
.in 6
.nf l
Casserole of Beef
Fillet of Beef
Filets Mignons
Filets Mignons with Tomatoes and Mushrooms
Mutton Chops à la Soubise
Mutton Chops with Horseradish Sauce
Mutton Chops Boned, with Artichokes
Mutton Chops Boned, with Mushrooms
Leg of Mutton à la Jardinière
Leg of Mutton Slices
Cottage Pie
Meat and Potato Pie
Minced Meat with Potato Rings
Minced Ham and Eggs
Veal Chops
Veal à l’Italienne
Veal Cutlets, Small
Grenadines of Veal
Pork Tenderloins with Fried Apples
.nf-
.in 0
.nf c
VEGETABLES AND CEREALS USED AS VEGETABLES
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Potatoes, Stuffed Baked
Potatoes, Purée of
Rice à la Milanese
Baked Hominy
Quenelles of Cornmeal
Boiled Lettuce
Tomato Farci
Broiled Tomatoes
Spinach
Bean Croquettes
.nf-
.in 0
.nf c
CHICKEN
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Casserole of Chicken, No. 1
Casserole of Chicken, No. 2
Chicken, Panned } Can be used in place of
Chicken, Smothered } game in ninth course.
Chicken Fried in Cream
Chicken Joints
Chicken en Surprise
Forcemeat
.nf-
.in 0
.nf c
SAUCES
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
White Sauce
Brown Sauce
Supreme Sauce
Tomato Purée
Hollandaise Sauce
Maître d’Hôtel Butter
Glaze
To Make Glaze
Hard Sauce
Liquid Sauces
.nf-
.in 0
// 131.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h4
CASSEROLE OF BEEF
Sauté three or four sliced onions in a tablespoonful of butter.
Put them when soft into the casserole. Cut a steak,
taken from the upper side of the round, into pieces suitable
for one portion. Put them in the sauté-pan and sear them on
all sides, then put them in the casserole. Add a tablespoonful
of flour to the sauté-pan, let it brown, then add
slowly a cupful and a half of water and stir until it is a little
thickened, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful
of pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
Add, if convenient, a little Worcestershire sauce and a little
mushroom catsup. The sauce should be highly seasoned, and
such condiments as are at hand may be used. The sauce
will be richer if stock is used instead of water. Turn the
sauce over the meat, cover the casserole, set it in the oven
and cook slowly until the meat is tender, then cover the top
with parboiled sliced potato and return it to the oven for
a few minutes to finish cooking the potatoes. The sauce
should be of the consistency of cream, and there should not
be a great quantity of it. Serve in the casserole.
.sp 2
.h4
FILLET OF BEEF
The fillet or tenderloin of beef is taken from the under
side of the loin. It is the most tender and the most expensive
cut of the beef, costing from eighty cents to a dollar a pound.
The whole fillet is used as a roast. When sliced it is given
different names. Cuts from the middle, which is the thickest
part, are Chateaubriands. The Chateaubriand is cut one
and a half to three quarters of an inch thick, trimmed, tied
into a neatly rounded shape, and struck lightly with the flat
// 132.png
.pn +1
side of the cleaver to smooth the top and reduce the thickness
to one and a quarter or one and a half inches. It is
cooked and served as a steak.
The next pieces are the mignon fillets. These are prepared
in the same way as the Chateaubriand and should be
about one inch thick and from two and a half to three
inches across when finished. They may be broiled or cooked
on a hot pan.
Cuts from the small ends are noisettes and turnedos; the
former are cut one half of an inch thick and cooked in a
sauté-pan; the latter are cut one quarter of an inch thick,
and are cooked in a sauté-pan for five minutes only. The
noisettes and turnedos should be brushed with glaze before
serving (see Glaze, page #104#).
Grenadines are cut lengthwise from the thin end of the
fillet and trimmed into chop-shaped pieces. They are larded,
sautéd in a little butter, and cooked five to eight minutes.
.if h
.il fn=fig-061.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 61. FILLETS MIGNONS ARRANGED IN CIRCLE. HALF A SLICE OF LEMON
ON EACH FILLET. FRIED POTATOES IN CENTER.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 61. FILLETS MIGNONS ARRANGED IN CIRCLE. HALF A SLICE OF LEMON
ON EACH FILLET. FRIED POTATOES IN CENTER.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
FILETS MIGNONS
Prepare and cook the fillets as directed above. Arrange
them in a circle overlapping one another and fill the center
of the circle with fried potatoes. Lay on each fillet a half
slice of lemon sprinkled with chopped parsley.
The center of the circle may be filled with potato, mashed,
balls, puffed, straws, etc., or with a vegetable such as peas,
beans, macedoine, etc.
The fillets may also be served with a bearnaise or a mushroom
sauce.
.if h
.il fn=fig-062.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 62. FILLETS MIGNONS. EACH FILLET COVERED WITH A SLICE OF BROILED
TOMATO AND A STUFFED MUSHROOM. FANCY SKEWER ON RIGHT OF DISH.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 62. FILLETS MIGNONS. EACH FILLET COVERED WITH A SLICE OF BROILED
TOMATO AND A STUFFED MUSHROOM. FANCY SKEWER ON RIGHT OF DISH.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
FILETS MIGNON WITH TOMATOES AND MUSHROOMS
Prepare the fillets as directed on this page. Have
them of uniform size. Broil them over coals or on a hot pan.
Turn them very often so they will cook slowly and when done
// 133.png
// 134.png
// 135.png
.pn +1
have an even red color all through. The broiling will take
eight to ten minutes. Cover the tops with maître d’hôtel
butter (page #103:fig-048#), or butter, pepper and salt, and chopped
parsley. Arrange them in a circle on one end of a platter.
Place on each one a slice of broiled tomato (see page #97#), and
on the tomato a stuffed mushroom (page #79#).
On one side of the platter place an ornamental skewer
stuck into a shaped piece of uncooked vegetable of sufficient
size. The skewer in illustration has a mushroom on top, then
a slice of lemon, then a row of small carrots strung on a
thread, a slice of lemon to hold the carrots in place, and
then the foliage of the carrots. It is stuck into a raw parsnip
cut so it stands firm. The skewer is for ornamenting the
dish only.
.sp 2
.h4
CHOPS À LA SOUBISE
Put soubise sauce in the center of the dish and arrange
broiled French chops standing in a ring around it. Place a
ring of fried onion over each chop bone.
French chops are cut from the rack and trimmed so as
to leave the upper half of the bone bare.
.if h
.il fn=fig-063.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 63. CHOPS À LA SOUBISE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 63. CHOPS À LA SOUBISE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
SOUBISE SAUCE
Boil six white onions for ten minutes. Cut them in pieces,
put them in a saucepan with one quarter of a pound of
butter and cook them very slowly indeed for a long time or
until they are soft. The onions must cook so slowly that
they do not color. Add a tablespoonful of flour. After
the flour is cooked remove the onions from the fire, add
one cupful of cream, and pass the whole through a sieve.
Add a very little pepper and salt.
This sauce should be white and have the consistency of
thick cream.
.if h
.il fn=fig-064.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 64. MUTTON CHOPS WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 64. MUTTON CHOPS WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 136.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
CHOPS WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE
Arrange French chops down the middle of the platter,
with the chops overlapping and the bones crossing. Place
a piece of bread under the first two to support and lift the
bones off the dish; the rest are then easily arranged in a
symmetrical manner.
Garnish the dish with spoonfuls of horseradish sauce, or
serve the sauce in a separate dish.
.sp 2
.h4
HORSERADISH SAUCE
Grate fresh horseradish root and mix with it enough
whipped cream to make it light and to reduce sufficiently
the sharpness of the horseradish. The horseradish absorbs
the cream, and a few more spoonfuls of the cream are needed
than of the grated horseradish. The sauce should not be
mixed until just before serving.
.if h
.il fn=fig-065.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 65. BONED MUTTON CHOPS WITH ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS
HOLDING GREEN PEAS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 65. BONED MUTTON CHOPS WITH ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS
HOLDING GREEN PEAS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
CHOPS GARNISHED WITH ARTICHOKES
These chops are cut from the rack. They are cut an inch
thick, the bones removed, and the meat turned and tied into
round pieces. They are then struck with the flat side of the
cleaver to smooth and flatten them a little.
Broil the chops, spread them with butter, and sprinkle
them with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Arrange them
symmetrically on a platter and place on each one an artichoke
bottom holding a little good sauce, such as bearnaise
or Hollandaise, or even melted butter, and a few green peas.
Artichoke bottoms come in cans and can be purchased from
a grocer. The French ones are the best. They do not need
any more cooking, but should be heated by placing them
in hot water.
// 137.png
// 138.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-066.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 66. BONED LOIN CHOPS WITH MUSHROOMS AND PEAS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 66. BONED LOIN CHOPS WITH MUSHROOMS AND PEAS.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 139.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
BONED CHOPS WITH MUSHROOMS
These chops should be cut an inch and a quarter thick from
the loin, the bone then carefully removed, some of the fat
taken out, and the thin end piece drawn around and fastened
with a wooden skewer, giving a perfectly round chop. Have
them uniform in size. Cook them on a hot pan. Turn them
frequently after the surfaces are seared so they will cook
evenly and slowly. If preferred, they can be broiled over
hot coals, but are then more likely to lose their shape and
the skewers will be burned.
Arrange the chops flat on the dish in a circle with the
skewers pointing out. Cover the top of each chop with a
sauce made of the chopped mushroom stems, and place in the
center of each chop a large mushroom cap. Place a paper
frill on each skewer. Fill the center of the ring of chops
with green peas or any small vegetable, or with mashed or
fried potatoes.
.sp 2
.h4
TO PREPARE THE MUSHROOMS
Select large mushrooms, those not fully opened preferred,
as they stand higher. Cut the stems off even with the caps.
Peel the caps. Chop the stems. Put all in a pan with butter
and sauté them until tender. Remove the caps as soon as
they are tender, and before they have flattened out. Add
a little stock, or water, to the pan, and a little flour. Stir
until the sauce is thickened to the consistency of cream, season
with a little salt and pepper. Use this sauce for the
tops of the chops.
.if h
.il fn=fig-067.jpg w=600px id=fig-067
.ca
NO. 67. CARVED LEG OF MUTTON À LA JARDINIÈRE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 67. CARVED LEG OF MUTTON À LA JARDINIÈRE.]
.sp 2
.if-
LEG OF MUTTON À LA JARDINIÈRE
.if h
.il fn=fig-068.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 68. SLICES OF MUTTON À LA JARDINIÈRE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 68. SLICES OF MUTTON À LA JARDINIÈRE.]
.sp 2
.if-
Cut a roasted leg of mutton in thick slices and run the
knife under the slices to free them, but leave them in place.
Conceal the bone with a paper frill. Arrange around the
// 140.png
.pn +1
dish a variety of vegetables. In illustration #No. 67:fig-067# the
vegetables are boiled potato balls, macedoine, and string
beans cut in two ways, lengthwise and across diagonally into
one half inch pieces.
Arrange slices cut from a roasted leg of mutton on one
end of a large platter. Cover the rest of the dish with a
variety of seasoned vegetables. The vegetables used in illustration
No. 68 are cauliflower, string beans, lima beans, and
green peas.
.if h
.il fn=fig-069.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 69. COTTAGE PIE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 69. COTTAGE PIE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
COTTAGE PIE
Peel a good-sized onion, stick into it half a dozen whole
cloves, and place it in the center of an earthenware baking-dish,
or a granite-ware basin, or, best of all, the baking-pan
of a double pudding-dish. Cut any cold meat into small
and rather thin slices. Roll each piece in flour mixed with
pepper and salt. Arrange the pieces of meat around the
onion, filling the dish three quarters full.
Put the bone of the meat and all of the scraps into a
saucepan, cover them with cold water, add a bay-leaf and
soup vegetables, and simmer the whole for an hour or longer.
Strain off the stock.
Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with a teaspoonful
of onion juice, let it brown, then add a tablespoonful
of the flour used for rolling the meat, let the flour brown,
then add one and a half cupfuls of the stock and stir until
it becomes a little thickened. Add more pepper and salt
if necessary, and a dash of mustard and of nutmeg, also a
few drops of Worcestershire sauce, if convenient. Let this
sauce become a little cooled, then pour it over the meat, and
cover the whole with mashed potato. The potato should be
seasoned by adding to it a little hot milk, with melted butter
in it, and a little salt, and then be whipped with a fork
until it is smooth, light, and white. The potato may be
// 141.png
.pn +1
put through a ricer over the meat, or be piled on it roughly
and scratched with a fork into cone shape, or be put
through a pastry-bag with star tube as in illustration. In
the latter case it must have the white of an egg mixed with
it in order to hold its form when baked. Touch the potato
lightly over the top with yolk of egg diluted with milk to
make it brown well. Put the dish in the oven for ten to fifteen
minutes, or long enough to brown the potato a little and
heat the meat. When the sauce begins to bubble through
the potato at the edges it is done.
The meat, having been cooked already, will be toughened if
cooked a second time and needs only to be heated.
Wrap a folded napkin around the dish before sending it to
the table in case a kitchen basin has been used. This is a
presentable dish and will be well liked.
.sp 2
.h4
MEAT AND POTATO PIE
Butter a pie-plate, spread over it like an under-crust well-seasoned
mashed potato. Spread it about a quarter of an
inch thick on the bottom. Make a border two inches wide,
and thick enough to rise a little above the dish. Score the
top of the potato border with a fork and touch it lightly with
egg. Fill the center with rare cold beef or mutton cut into
dice. Pour over the meat well-seasoned brown sauce and
sprinkle the top with a few buttered bread crumbs. Do not
let any of the sauce get on the potato border. Place it in
the oven for a few minutes to brown.
.sp 2
.h4
MINCED MEAT WITH POTATO RINGS
Mince any kind of meat. Make it creamy with brown
sauce for dark meat, or with white sauce for veal or chicken;
or moisten the minced meat with stock, add pepper and salt,
a few drops of onion juice, and, if convenient, a little
// 142.png
.pn +1
tomato. Chopped mushrooms added to the mince improve
it very much. Spread the creamed mince flat on the dish,
or form a mound as in illustration. Sprinkle the top with
crumbs browned in butter.
Mash some boiled potatoes, season them with butter, salt,
and enough milk to moisten them well, and one or two
beaten eggs; one egg is enough for a pint of potato. Beat the
potato until it is light and white. Press it through a pastry-bag
with star tube into rings. Paint the rings with yolk of
egg diluted with a little milk and put them in the oven to
brown. The potato will not hold its form unless the egg is
added. Arrange the rings around the minced meat and fill
the centers with corn and spinach alternately, as in illustration,
or with any other vegetables.
.if h
.il fn=fig-072.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 72. MINCED HAM AND EGGS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 72. MINCED HAM AND EGGS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
MINCED HAM AND EGGS
Mince boiled ham very fine. Moisten it with white sauce.
Form it into a mound and cover it with crumbed yolks of
hard-boiled eggs. Cut the whites of the eggs into strips
and arrange them around the ham.
.sp 2
.h4
VEAL CHOPS
Cut thin chops from the rack and trim them like French
mutton chops. Leave the bone two and a half inches long.
Strike the meat with a cleaver to flatten it out to two and a
half inches in diameter. Chop the trimmings very fine,
season them with pepper and salt and a few drops of onion
juice. Spread the mince over the chops in an even layer.
Egg and bread-crumb them and sauté them until thoroughly
cooked. Serve on a dish with a little sauce made from the
drippings in the sauté-pan, or with a tomato sauce.
Serve spinach with this dish.
// 143.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-070.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 70. MINCED MEAT GARNISHED WITH POTATO RINGS HOLDING VEGETABLES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 70. MINCED MEAT GARNISHED WITH POTATO RINGS HOLDING VEGETABLES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-071.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 71. MINCED MEAT OR FISH GARNISHED WITH MASHED POTATOES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 71. MINCED MEAT OR FISH GARNISHED WITH MASHED POTATOES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 144.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-073.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 73. VEAL À L’ITALIENNE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 73. VEAL À L’ITALIENNE.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 145.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
VEAL À L’ITALIENNE
Divide a veal cutlet into uniform small pieces and tie
them to make the pieces round and keep them in shape
until cooked, when the strings are cut and removed.
One cutlet from the top of the leg of veal will cut into
eight pieces.
Dredge the small cutlets with salt and pepper. Dip them
into egg, and then cover them with bread crumbs. Sauté
them in the fat tried out of thin slices of salt pork. It will
take from ten to fifteen minutes to cook them. Veal should
be thoroughly cooked, but not dried. The meat will be
white when cooked. Put a little lemon juice on each cutlet.
Boil the required amount of spaghetti in salted water
until it is tender, then steam it until dry so the sauce will
adhere to it. Mix it with tomato purée and a few thin strips
of boiled ham cut into straws one and a half inches long.
Pile the spaghetti in the center of the dish and arrange the
cutlets around it. Place the crisp slices of salt pork on the
dish.
.if h
.il fn=fig-074.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 74. SMALL VEAL CUTLETS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 74. SMALL VEAL CUTLETS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
SMALL VEAL CUTLETS
Cut and tie the cutlets into rounds as directed in above
receipt. Dredge them in salt and pepper and roll them in
flour.
Put a tablespoonful of butter in a sauté-pan, when it is
hot add half a teaspoonful of grated onion, let it cook for
a minute, then add the cutlets and cook them until done
and well browned, turning them several times.
Remove the cutlets. Sprinkle in the pan a teaspoonful of
flour, let it cook a minute, then add slowly half a cupful of
stock, stirring all the time to keep it smooth. Remove it
from the fire and stir in a small bit of butter and the yolks
// 146.png
.pn +1
of one or two eggs mixed with a tablespoonful of hot water;
season with salt and pepper. If the sauce is too thick, dilute
it with a little hot water or stock. It should have the consistency
of cream. Strain it on to the serving dish. Place the
cutlets upon the sauce, arranging them in a line in the center
of the dish, one on top of another, and place around them
hard-boiled eggs cut in two lengthwise.
.if h
.il fn=fig-075.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 75. GRENADINES OF VEAL.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 75. GRENADINES OF VEAL.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
GRENADINES OF VEAL
Cut a thin veal cutlet into small pieces and tie the pieces
into rounds about two inches in diameter. Lard them. Put
them in a baking-pan with a few trimmings of the larding
pork, a sliced onion, and enough stock to half cover them.
Place them in the oven and cook until the stock has fallen to
a glaze. Baste them frequently so they will be well glazed.
Arrange them on a dish and pour around them a sauce made
from the drippings in the pan, as follows: Add a little stock
or water to the pan and a little browned flour, if necessary,
to thicken it. Then strain it. A little ham cut into thin
strips an inch long improves the sauce.
.if h
.il fn=fig-076.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 76. PORK TENDERLOINS GARNISHED WITH SLICES OF APPLE SAUTÉD.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 76. PORK TENDERLOINS GARNISHED WITH SLICES OF APPLE SAUTÉD.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
PORK TENDERLOINS
Sauté tenderloins of pork until cooked and browned. Arrange
the tenderloins evenly on a dish and place around
them sautéd slices of apples.
Cut apples across into slices quarter of an inch thick,
stamp out the cores with a small biscuit-cutter, but do not
remove the skin. Sauté the rings of apple in the drippings
of the pork until they are tender, but not until they have
lost shape.
// 147.png
// 148.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-079.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 79. INDIVIDUAL MOLDS OF SPINACH GARNISHED
WITH CHOPPED WHITE OF EGG.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 79. INDIVIDUAL MOLDS OF SPINACH GARNISHED
WITH CHOPPED WHITE OF EGG.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-080.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 80. SPINACH, NO. 2.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 80. SPINACH, NO. 2.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 149.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
VEGETABLES AND CEREALS USED AS VEGETABLES
.if h
.il fn=fig-077.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 77. STUFFED BAKED POTATOES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 77. STUFFED BAKED POTATOES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
STUFFED BAKED POTATOES
Select potatoes of the same size and shape. After carefully
washing them, bake them until tender, then cut them in two
lengthwise and remove the pulp of the potato, leaving the
skins uninjured. Season the potato with butter, salt, and
a little milk. Beat it well and replace it in the potato
skins. Smooth the top with a knife, brush them with yolk
of egg, and set in the oven to brown.
.if h
.il fn=fig-078.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 78. POTATO PURÉE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 78. POTATO PURÉE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
POTATO PURÉE
Mash and season the potatoes and add enough milk or hot
water to make them quite soft. Take up a spoonful of potato
at a time and place it on a flat dish in a regular order. Place
a small sprig of parsley on each spoonful.
.sp 2
.h4
RICE À LA MILANESE
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan with a
teaspoonful of onion chopped fine. Cook for a minute, but do
not brown. Add half a cupful of clean, unwashed rice, and
stir until it is a light yellow, then add two cupfuls of stock
and cook without stirring for twenty minutes. The rice
should be tender and the stock should be absorbed. Add
a tablespoonful of grated cheese and a little salt. Turn
it lightly together, using a fork, so as not to break the rice.
Cover the top with grated cheese.
Serve as a vegetable-dish or as a course for luncheon. In
the latter case brush the inside of a ring-mold with glaze, add
to the rice a teaspoonful of butter in small bits, and a dash
// 150.png
.pn +1
of paprika. Press it lightly into the mold and set it in the
oven for a few minutes.
A brown or a tomato sauce may be served with it if desired.
.sp 2
.h4
BAKED HOMINY
To two cupfuls of cold boiled hominy add a beaten egg,
three quarters of a cupful of milk, and a half teaspoonful of
salt. Beat it until perfectly smooth. Put it into a baking-dish,
smooth the top, pour over it a teaspoonful of melted
butter, and bake it until it forms a golden surface.
Serve it in the baking-dish in place of a vegetable.
.sp 2
.h4
QUENELLES OF CORNMEAL
Put a cupful of milk and a cupful and a half of water in a
saucepan and add a teaspoonful of salt. When it boils stir
in slowly half a cupful of yellow meal and cook for fifteen
to twenty minutes, and until the mixture is well thickened.
Then take it off the fire. When it is cold and stiffened take
it up in spoonfuls and lay the egg-shaped pieces formed
by the spoon in a baking-dish. Place the pieces in the dish
symmetrically. Pour over them a little melted butter and set
them in the oven to brown slightly. Serve as a vegetable.
.sp 2
.h4
BOILED LETTUCE
Wash thoroughly whole heads of lettuce. Tie the tops so
the leaves will lie together. Place the heads in a large pan
so they do not touch and boil them in salted water until
tender. Remove them carefully and let them drain on a
sieve, pressing each one to free it of water. Lay them in
a row on a flat dish and pour over them a sauce made of
melted butter, pepper and salt, and a little vinegar; or use
a plain white sauce.
// 151.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
TOMATO FARCI
Select tomatoes of equal size, and if they are small use
them whole, if large cut them in two. Peel them. Arrange
them close together in a flat earthen baking-dish which can
be sent to the table. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper.
Spread over the top a mixture of chopped mushrooms, bread
crumbs, chopped parsley, and sufficient butter to moisten the
bread. Bake about thirty minutes, or until the tomatoes
are softened. Set the hot baking-dish on a second dish when
serving.
.sp 2
.h4
BROILED TOMATOES
Without removing the skin, cut fresh tomatoes into slices
three eighths of an inch thick. Sprinkle the slices with
pepper and salt and dip them first in melted butter or in
oil and then in cracker or bread crumbs, then broil them over
hot coals until they are softened. Do not let them cook so
much that they fall apart.
.sp 2
.h4
SPINACH
Boil carefully washed and carefully picked over spinach
until it is tender, drain it, chop it very fine, and press it
through a purée sieve. Season it with white sauce made of
half milk and half stock (page #102#). Use enough of the sauce
to make it quite creamy. If it is to be molded it cannot be
quite as soft as when it is to be served in a vegetable-dish.
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Fill thoroughly buttered individual timbale molds
with spinach and press it down quite hard. After a
few minutes, turn the spinach out of the molds on to
rounds of browned bread. Cover the tops with
chopped whites of hard-boiled eggs and place in the
center a spot of the crumbed yolks.
// 152.png
.pn +1
.ni
Serve alone or use as a garnish on a meat-dish.
This is a good way to utilize a small amount of leftover
spinach. Spinach is improved rather than injured
by recooking.
.ti -6
No. 2. Make a mound of spinach by pressing it into a
buttered bowl. Ornament the top with a hard-boiled
egg, the whole yolk standing on slices of the white cut
lengthwise.
.ti -6
No. 3. Ornament a thoroughly buttered tin basin or any
mold with half rings of hard-boiled eggs as shown in
illustration #No. 5:fig-005#. The egg will stick to the butter
and be held in place. Fill the mold with spinach,
putting it in carefully with a spoon so as not to
displace the ornamentation, and press it down firmly.
After a few minutes turn it out of the mold and garnish
it with croutons.
Croutons are slices of bread browned (sautéd) in
butter.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-081.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 81. BEAN CROQUETTES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 81. BEAN CROQUETTES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
BEAN CROQUETTES
.pi
Boil until tender a pint of dried beans which have been
soaked overnight. Boil an onion in the water with the
beans. Press the beans through a purée sieve. Season the
purée with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two beaten
eggs, a little pepper and salt, and a tablespoonful of parsley
chopped very fine. If the mixture is still too dry add a
little stock. Mold the purée into small croquettes. Cover
the croquettes with egg and bread crumbs and fry them in
smoking-hot fat. Serve with tomato sauce.
// 153.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
CHICKEN
.sp 2
.h4
CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN, No. 1
Cut tender chicken into joints. Remove the skin, put a
tablespoonful of butter into a casserole. Lay in the pieces
of chicken loosely with bits of butter between them, add the
sautéd slices of one onion and a bouquet of herbs consisting
of a small bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, and a little thyme,
wrap the parsley around the others and tie them together.
Add also a few raw potato balls and, if convenient, a few
fresh mushrooms. Sprinkle with salt. Lay two or three
very thin slices of salt pork over the top. Cover the casserole
and put it in the oven. At the end of half an hour turn the
chicken carefully and return it to the oven to finish the
cooking.
.sp 2
.h4
CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN, No. 2
Cut a chicken into joints, remove the skin, sprinkle the
pieces with pepper and salt, and roll them in flour. Sauté
the slices of one onion and a tablespoonful of butter; when
they are tender remove and put them in the casserole, then
put in the sauté-pan the pieces of chicken with a little more
butter and sauté them to a golden brown on all sides. Place
the chicken in the casserole. Add half a tablespoonful of
flour to the sauté-pan; after it has cooked a minute stir in
slowly one and a half cupfuls of water, or, preferably, stock,
and stir until it is slightly thickened. Season with a saltspoonful
of pepper and a half teaspoonful of salt. Turn the
sauce over the chicken, add a bay-leaf, a few potato balls,
and, if convenient, a tablespoonful of sherry and a few mushrooms.
Cover the casserole, put it in the oven, and cook
slowly until the chicken is tender. If the sauce becomes too
// 154.png
.pn +1
dry add enough water or stock to make it the consistency
of cream. If it is too thin leave off the lid and continue
cooking until it is reduced. There should not be a great
quantity of sauce.
.sp 2
.h4
PANNED CHICKEN
Split a spring chicken down the back, double the flippers
under the back, and cross the legs as shown in illustration
#No. 82:fig-082#.
Put a little butter all over the chicken and dust it with
pepper, salt, and flour. Place it in a baking-pan with a cupful
of water and bake it for thirty minutes, basting it frequently.
.sp 2
.h4
SMOTHERED CHICKEN
Put a chicken prepared as above in a pan, cover it with a
second pan, and set it in a hot oven for fifteen minutes, or
until browned, then turn it over, add a cupful of water,
cover it again with the pan, and cook until tender.
.sp 2
.h4
CHICKEN FRIED IN CREAM
Fry a few pieces of salt pork until crisp. Remove them
from the pan and put in the chicken, which has been cut into
pieces and the skin removed. Sauté the chicken in the pork
fat until it is cooked and browned, then turn over it a cupful
of cream in which has been mixed half a teaspoonful of
mustard and the chopped white and crumbed yolk of a hard-boiled
egg. Stir them together for a minute and serve.
.if h
.il fn=fig-082.jpg w=600px id=fig-082
.ca
NO. 82. CHICKEN PREPARED TO BROIL.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 82. CHICKEN PREPARED TO BROIL.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-083.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 83. CHICKEN JOINTS GARNISHED WITH POTATO.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 83. CHICKEN JOINTS GARNISHED WITH POTATO.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
CHICKEN JOINTS
Take the drumsticks and second joints and the wings of
cooked chicken or turkey. Remove the skin and trim them so
// 155.png
// 156.png
// 157.png
.pn +1
they are smooth and shapely. Rub them with salt and pepper.
Dip them in batter and fry them in smoking-hot fat
to a light golden color. Arrange them on a platter with the
points in, and ornament the tops with a line of mashed
potato pressed through a pastry-bag and star-tube.
Use a plain pancake batter, omitting the baking-powder;
or use the batter given for fontage cups (page #30#), but a
little thicker. Have it of a consistency to coat the spoon
evenly and let it be very smooth.
.if h
.il fn=fig-084.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 84. CHICKEN EN SURPRISE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 84. CHICKEN EN SURPRISE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
CHICKEN EN SURPRISE
Bone a chicken without removing the leg or wing bones.
Spread the boned chicken on a board, lay a roll of forcemeat
on it, draw it together, giving it the shape of the
chicken, and sew the skin together. Put the legs and wings
into the positions of a trussed fowl, roll it in a piece of cheesecloth,
and secure the ends well. (See Boning and Braising,
pages 181-182, “Century Cook Book.”)
Put it in a pot with enough water to cover it, add soup
vegetables, herbs and spices, and let it simmer for four hours.
Let the chicken cool before removing the cloth, then lard
it, rub it over with a little melted butter, and dredge with
salt, pepper, and flour. Place it in the oven to brown and to
heat it if it is to be used hot. Baste with a little butter and
water so it will not get too brown while it is heating through.
Place paper frills on the leg bones, and garnish with fried
potato balls and a few sprigs of parsley, as shown in the
illustration.
.sp 2
.h4
FORCEMEAT
Chop very fine the meat of a fowl, or use veal or pork or a
mixture of them both. Add to the meat a cupful of the
// 158.png
.pn +1
crumb of bread, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful
each of salt, thyme, and onion juice, and a quarter
teaspoonful of pepper; a little ham or tongue, some dice of
larding-pork and truffle improve the forcemeat, but are not
essential when the chicken is to be served hot. Moisten the
whole with stock and mix it well.
.sp 2
.h3
SAUCES
.sp 2
.h4
WHITE SAUCE
Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when it bubbles
add a tablespoonful of flour and cook them together
for a few minutes, but do not let them brown. Remove from
the fire and add a cupful of milk, very slowly so as to keep
it smooth; stir all the time. Add a half teaspoonful of salt
and a saltspoonful of pepper. Return it to the fire and cook
until it is thickened to a creamy consistency. The sauce is
richer if half stock and half milk are used. It is also improved
for some uses by adding the yolks of one or two eggs. If
yolks are used they are stirred in after the sauce is taken
from the fire, as it is still hot enough to cook the egg sufficiently.
(See Sauces, “Century Cook Book,” pages 275-277.)
.sp 2
.h4
BROWN SAUCE
This is made in the same way and with the same proportions
as the white sauce, but the butter with a few drops of
onion juice in it is browned before the flour is added. The
flour is also allowed to brown. It is then diluted with stock
instead of milk.
// 159.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
SUPREME SAUCE
For Chicken Breasts, Sweetbreads, Croquettes, etc.
Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when it is
hot add a tablespoonful of flour and let it cook a few minutes
without coloring, then add slowly a cupful of chicken or
veal stock, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika;
stir until it thickens, then remove it from the fire, and after
a few minutes add slowly a mixture of quarter of a cupful
of cream and the yolks of three eggs. Return it to the fire
for a minute to cook the eggs. Just before serving add a
tablespoonful of lemon juice.
.sp 2
.h4
TOMATO PURÉE
Put a canful of tomatoes in a saucepan with half an onion
sliced, a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, three cloves, one half
teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cook uncovered
until reduced one half, then strain it through a
purée sieve. Return it to the fire and add, a little at a time,
a tablespoonful of butter.
.sp 2
.h4
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
.nf c
For Fish, Vegetables, and Meats
.nf-
Put in a saucepan the yolks of four eggs, one half cupful
of butter, one half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of paprika, and
one half cupful of cold water or stock. Mix them together.
Place the saucepan in a pan of hot water and stir the mixture
over the fire until it has thickened to the consistency of
cream. When ready to serve remove it from the fire, and
after it has cooled a little add very slowly the juice of half
a lemon.
// 160.png
.pn +1
.if h
.il fn=fig-048.jpg w=600px id=fig-048
.ca
NO. 48. MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL BUTTER.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 48. MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL BUTTER.]
.sp 2
.if-
.h4
MAÎTRE D’HÔTEL BUTTER
Whip, with a fork, a quarter of a cupful of butter until
it is very light, add a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very
fine, one half teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, and lastly
add slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Smooth it over
and set it in the ice-box to harden. Dip a teaspoon in hot
water, wipe it quickly, and then draw it lightly over the
hardened butter, taking up a thin layer which will curl over
as the spoon is drawn along. Turn it off the spoon in egg-shaped
pieces. Heat the spoon again and repeat the operation,
laying the pieces in a pile as they are made. Place them
in the ice-box to harden.
Serve with any broiled meats or fish.
.sp 2
.h4
GLAZE
Glaze is a clear soup stock boiled down to the consistency
of thick cream. It is applied with a brush to the surface of
meats to give them a smooth and shining surface. It is
used also for adding richness to sauces. A very little glaze
often improves a sauce and does not thin it as stock would
do. The prepared extract of beef which comes in small jars
can be used as a glaze.
.sp 2
.h4
TO MAKE GLAZE
Put in a soup pot bits of fat cut from meat and let them
try out enough to moisten the bottom of the pot; or use a
tablespoonful of butter for this purpose. Add four pounds
of lean beef cut into pieces and let them brown, turning them
a few times, then add a half cupful of hot water and let the
whole cook until the juices are reduced to a glaze in the
// 161.png
.pn +1
bottom of the pot. This is to give color to the stock. Add
six quarts of cold water and the knuckle of veal, and let the
mixture simmer for six hours. If the water is allowed to boil
the lime will be extracted from the bone and the stock will
be clouded. After three hours’ simmering add the soup vegetables,
consisting of two stalks of celery, one onion, a few
sprigs of parsley, a piece of carrot, three cloves, a bay-leaf,
a saltspoonful each of thyme and marjoram, fifteen peppercorns,
and a tablespoonful of salt. After six hours’ simmering
strain the stock through a cloth laid on a colander, and
let it cool. You have now a soup stock. The next day remove
the grease, turn the stock into a saucepan carefully
so that no sediment goes in, and let it boil, uncovered, until
reduced to a thin paste. The stock is now glaze. Be careful
toward the end of the cooking that the stock does not
burn. Turn the glaze into a small jar and put a little melted
butter over the top to exclude the air. When ready to use
it heat a little of the glaze to soften it and apply it with
a brush.
.sp 2
.h3
SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS
.sp 2
.h4
HARD SAUCE
Hard sauce is made of butter, sugar, and flavoring.
Use twice the quantity of sugar that you have of butter.
Beat them together for a long time, or until they are very
light and white, then add the flavoring and put it in the ice-box
to harden. The yolk of an egg or the whipped white of
an egg may be added to white sauce.
To half a cupful of butter and a cupful of sugar add for
flavoring one tablespoonful of wine, or two teaspoonfuls of
lemon juice, and one teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, or
six drops of vanilla.
// 162.png
.pn +1
.h4
LIQUID SAUCES
.sp 2
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Use the same proportions of butter and sugar as
for hard sauce. Add a little wine, or milk, or hot
water. Stir the whole over the fire until the sugar
and butter are melted.
.in 0
.sp 2
.ni
No. 2. Use yolks of eggs with wine and sugar.
.in 6
4 yolks,
4 tablespoonfuls of wine,
4 tablespoonfuls of sugar.
.in 0
.ti +6
Cook in a double boiler until a little thickened.
.sp 2
No. 3.
.in 6
.nf l
1 cupful of sherry,
½ cupful of sugar,
1 egg.
.nf-
.in 0
.ti +6
Beat together and cook in a double boiler until a little
thickened.
.pi
// 163.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch08
Chapter VIII||SEVENTH COURSE
.sp 2
.nf c
PUNCHES—FRUIT—CHEESE DISHES
.nf-
// 164.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 4
.h3
PUNCHES—FRUIT—CHEESE DISHES
.sp 2
.in 6
.nf l
Frozen Punches
Brandy Peaches
Individual Pineapple. See page #38#.
Cheese Croquettes
Cheese Patties
Gnocchi à l’Italienne
Gnocchi à la Romaine
Gnocchi à la Française
Entrées given in Fifth Course
.nf-
.in 0
// 165.png
.sp 2
.pb
.pn +1
.sp 4
.h3
FROZEN PUNCHES
Any of the water-ices can be made into punches by adding
to them when half frozen the whipped whites of two eggs
which have had a tablespoonful of hot sugar syrup stirred
into them to cook the eggs. The eggs must be cold when
added to the ice, and the freezing continued until the ice is
sufficiently stiff. At the moment of serving pour over each
glassful a teaspoonful or a tablespoonful of liquor.
The liquor may be rum or kirsch, or a liqueur.
.sp 2
.h3
BRANDY PEACHES
Serve brandied peaches in individual glasses before the
game course. Keep the jar of peaches on ice for several
hours before serving them, so they will get very cold. Serve
one peach in a glass.
.if h
.il fn=fig-085.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 85. CHEESE CROQUETTES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 85. CHEESE CROQUETTES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
CHEESE CROQUETTES
Grate half a pound of American cheese. Mix in it a scant
tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of milk, an egg
beaten enough to break it, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a
dash of paprika. Mix to a smooth paste and mold into small
croquettes, using a tablespoonful of the paste for each croquette.
The above proportions will make eight croquettes.
Add a little milk to the yolk of an egg and roll the croquettes
in this and then in cracker dust. Then fry them for
a minute in smoking-hot fat. They should have a delicate
brown color and be soft inside. Serve them as soon as they
are fried or the cheese will harden.
This is a delicious cheese dish and very easily made.
.if h
.il fn=fig-086.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 86. CHEESE PATTIES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 86. CHEESE PATTIES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 166.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
CHEESE PATTIES
Cut slices of bread one inch thick. Stamp the slices into
rounds with a biscuit-cutter. With a smaller stamp cut a
round half through the center of each one of the large
rounds and take out the bread, leaving a box of bread.
Spread these with butter and put them in the oven to brown.
Fill the centers with the same cheese mixture as given for
cheese croquettes and place them in the oven just long
enough to soften the cheese. Serve at once.
.if h
.il fn=fig-087.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 87. GNOCCHI À L’ITALIENNE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 87. GNOCCHI À L’ITALIENNE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
GNOCCHI À L’ITALIENNE
Put into a saucepan one cupful of milk, one cupful of
water, one tablespoonful of butter, one half teaspoonful of
salt, and a dash of paprika. When this boils add a cupful of
hominy and stir until it is thickened a little, then set the
saucepan into a second one containing hot water and continue
cooking until the hominy is soft. Add a little more
hot water if the mixture gets dry before the hominy is
cooked. Take it off the fire, add a tablespoonful of grated
cheese, and spread the mixture in a smooth layer one half
inch thick on a buttered tin. Set it aside to cool. When the
layer of hominy has hardened cut it into rounds with a small
biscuit-cutter. Place the rounds, overlapping, in a baking-dish
which can be sent to the table. Moisten the tops with
melted butter, sprinkle them with grated cheese, and set
them in the oven to brown.
.sp 2
.h3
GNOCCHI À LA ROMAINE
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan; when it
is melted add four tablespoonfuls of flour, one half teaspoonful
of salt, and a cupful of milk gradually. When it is well
thickened add the beaten yolk of one egg and two tablespoonfuls
// 167.png
// 168.png
// 169.png
.pn +1
of grated cheese. Pour the mixture into a baking-dish,
making a layer half or three quarters of an inch thick.
Let it get cold. Sprinkle the top with grated cheese and put
it in the oven to brown. Serve it hot.
.if h
.il fn=fig-088.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 88. GNOCCHI À LA FRANÇAISE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 88. GNOCCHI À LA FRANÇAISE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
GNOCCHI À LA FRANÇAISE
Add to a quart of boiling milk four tablespoonfuls of farina
and half a teaspoonful of salt. Cook it about thirty
minutes, or until soft. Turn it on to a dish, making a layer
about half an inch thick. When it is cold and hardened cut it
into sharp, triangular pieces. Arrange the pieces on a flat,
round dish in a double circle as in illustration. Add to two
tablespoonfuls of the hot boiled farina, one tablespoonful of
butter, two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, and a dash of
paprika or red pepper. Pile this mixture in the center of
the dish, filling the vacant space in the middle of the pieces
of farina, and sprinkle it with grated cheese, not letting any
cheese get on the farina. Place the dish in the oven to brown
and serve at once.
This dish is made to resemble a sunflower.
// 170.png
// 171.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.pn +1
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch09
Chapter IX||EIGHTH COURSE
.nf c
GAME—SALADS—COLD SERVICE—CHEESE
.nf-
.sp 4
// 172.png
.pb
.pn +1
.sp 4
.nf c
GAME
.nf-
.sp 2
.in 6
.nf l
Quail, Broiled
Quail, Roasted
Squabs
.nf-
.in 0
.nf c
SALADS
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Lettuce, Plain
Lettuce Hearts
Bouquet Salad, Lettuce and Nasturtium
or Watercress
Bouquet Salad, Lettuce and Hard-boiled
Egg
Bouquet Salads, Illustrations Nos. #94:fig-094#, #95:fig-095#, #96:fig-096#, #97:fig-097#
Daisy Salad
Salad of Asparagus Tips
Salad of Artichoke Bottoms
Salad of Vegetables
Aspic of Vegetables
Cucumber and Tomato Salad
Tomato and Green Pepper Salad
Turnip Cups with Celery
Celery and Apple Salad
Individual Apple Salad
Cabbage Salad
Mashed Potato Salad
Shad Roe Salad
Chicken Salad
Chestnut Salad
Fruit Salad
.nf-
.in 0
.nf c
COLD SERVICE
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Chicken Aspic
Aspic of Pâté de Foie Gras
Chicken Mousse
Liver Loaf or Cold Timbale
Cold Cut Meats
Glazed Tongue
Boiled Ham
Boned Ham
For Buffet Luncheons or Fourth Course in Summer Service:
Cold Fish, Garnished
Jellied Cutlets
Fish in the Garden
Cold Halibut
.nf-
.in 0
.nf c
CHEESE
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Cream Cheese with Bar-le-Duc Currants
Camembert
Gorgonzola
Roquefort
Etc.
.nf-
.in 0
.sp 4
// 173.png
.pb
.pn +1
.sp 4
.h3
GAME
.sp 2
.h4
QUAILS BROILED
Split the quails down the back, and broil them for four
minutes on each side. Spread them with butter, pepper, and
salt. Serve them on toast.
.sp 2
.h4
QUAILS ROASTED
Lay thin slices of salt pork over well-trussed birds. Bake
them in a hot oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. Have in
the baking-pan a little water, pepper, and salt, and baste
the quails frequently.
Serve on slices of toast moistened with drippings from
the pan.
.sp 2
.h4
SQUABS
Cook the same as directed for quails.
.sp 2
.h3
SALADS
.sp 2
.h4
FRENCH DRESSING
.in 6
.nf l
3 tablespoonfuls of oil,
1 tablespoonful of vinegar,
½ teaspoonful of salt,
¼ teaspoonful of pepper.
.nf-
.in 0
Mix the salt and pepper with the oil, then add slowly the
vinegar, stirring all the time. It will become a little white
and thickened.
// 174.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
MAYONNAISE DRESSING
To the yolk of an egg add oil very slowly until the mixture
becomes very thick, then add alternately vinegar and
oil. Lastly add salt and pepper.
The proportions are one cupful of oil to one yolk, one half
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and one and a half
tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon juice. More or less oil
may be used, but it must be added very slowly at first or the
mixture will curdle. Have all the ingredients cold before
beginning to mix the dressing. (See “Century Cook Book,”
page 288.)
.sp 2
.h4
CREAM DRESSING
Add whipped cream to mayonnaise or plain cream to
French dressing at the moment of mixing them with the
salad. The proportions need not be exact: a little more or
less cream can be used as convenient.
Note.—An onion rubbed on the dish in which lettuce is
to be served improves the salad.
.sp 2
.h4
PREPARING SALADS
It is essential that leaf salads and celery be dry. Oil and
water do not mix, and if the salad is wet the dressing will
run off it and also lose its flavor. They should also be crisp
and clean. Divest them of imperfect portions and wash to
free them of dust and grit. Examine lettuce for a small
green insect and celery for a small white worm which infest
them, then place them in cold water to refresh and crisp
them.
Dry them carefully, shaking lettuce or watercress in a wire
basket, or carefully dry each piece in a clean napkin. Celery
may be drained or wiped. The salad may be dried sometime
before using it, and if kept near the ice will retain its
// 175.png
// 176.png
// 177.png
.pn +1
crispness, but the dressing must not be put on until the moment
of serving, as it wilts the leaves. The same rule applies
to vegetables used as salads: they should be dry and cold.
There need be no waste in lettuce. The imperfect and
hard leaves may be boiled and used as directed on page #55#
for green eggs. The rejected outside leaves of one head will
be enough for one or two eggs, or they may be used with
other odds and ends of vegetables to give a macedoine garnishing
to a meat dish.
.sp 2
.h4
SALADS
Of the many articles used for salad, lettuce is preëminently
first in favor. It is the king of salads; and, whatever else is
used, lettuce usually forms part of the dish to make it complete.
A plain lettuce is always acceptable and can be served
in several forms. Combined with one or more articles equally
common, a number of bouquet salads can easily be made, giving
dishes attractive both in taste and color. The bouquet
salads should be placed on flat dishes in order to show the
arrangement, color, and variety of articles used.
A variety in salads is desirable; and, as they can be eaten
every day, a little change in the combinations will give
variety.
The use of nasturtium blossoms is recommended. They are
not only beautiful to look at and decorative, but have a
piquant flavor. Combinations of green such as are obtained
by lettuce and watercress are pleasing.
In the illustrations a number of combinations are given
which will suggest others.
.if h
.il fn=fig-089.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 89. PLAIN LETTUCE SALAD.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 89. PLAIN LETTUCE SALAD.]
.sp 2
.if-
.ni
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Plain lettuce salad. The lettuce here is arranged to
resemble a cabbage. For this a head of cabbage lettuce
is used. The leaves are taken apart, carefully
// 178.png
.pn +1
washed and dried, and the stalks flattened by cutting
a little slice off the bottom to make them stand upright.
They are then put together again in the natural
form, but more spread open, and placed on a
round platter. Just before serving a French dressing
is poured over them with a spoon, to have each leaf
moistened, care being taken not to disarrange the
leaves.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-090.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 90. HEART OF CABBAGE LETTUCE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 90. HEART OF CABBAGE LETTUCE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 2. Lettuce hearts. Divest a head of Boston cabbage lettuce
of the outer leaves down to the hard head. With
a sharp knife cut the head into quarters and arrange
them on a dish with the stalk ends toward the center.
Sprinkle over them, or not, a little celery cut into
small dice. If celery is used, place a little in the center
of the dish and between the quarters. At the moment
of serving pour French dressing, using a spoon,
into the lettuce hearts, moistening them well.
The outside leaves taken from the head can be
broken into small pieces or cut into ribbons and used
as shown in other illustrations.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-091.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 91. BOUQUET SALAD—LETTUCE AND WATERCRESS OR NASTURTIUMS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 91. BOUQUET SALAD—LETTUCE AND WATERCRESS OR NASTURTIUMS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 3. Bouquet salad. Break crisp lettuce leaves into pieces,
arrange them on a flat dish, and place in the center
a bunch of watercress or of nasturtium blossoms.
Just before serving moisten the lettuce with French
dressing, and the watercress also if it is used.
.if h
.il fn=fig-092.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 92. BOUQUET SALAD. SHREDDED LETTUCE AND HARD-BOILED EGGS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 92. BOUQUET SALAD. SHREDDED LETTUCE AND HARD-BOILED EGGS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.ti -6
No. 4. Bouquet salad. Place a number of crisp lettuce leaves
together, and with a sharp knife cut them across into
strips about a quarter of an inch wide. Pile the
ribbons in the center of the dish and place slices of
hard-boiled eggs around them. Moisten with French
dressing at the moment of serving.
.in 0
// 179.png
// 180.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-093.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 93. BOUQUET SALAD. LETTUCE. TOMATOES. EGGS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 93. BOUQUET SALAD. LETTUCE. TOMATOES. EGGS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-094.jpg w=600px id=fig-094
.ca
NO. 94. BOUQUET SALAD. ARRANGED IN FIVE LINES OF
COLOR. RADISHES, CUT TO RESEMBLE ROSES, IN CENTER ON A LAYER OF CELERY
CUT INTO SMALL DICE. AROUND THE CELERY A RING OF WATERCRESS. BOILED
BEETS CUT INTO STRIPS AROUND THE WATERCRESS. LETTUCE CUT INTO RIBBONS
AROUND THE BEETS. THE WHOLE MOISTENED WITH FRENCH DRESSING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 94. BOUQUET SALAD. ARRANGED IN FIVE LINES OF
COLOR. RADISHES, CUT TO RESEMBLE ROSES, IN CENTER ON A LAYER OF CELERY
CUT INTO SMALL DICE. AROUND THE CELERY A RING OF WATERCRESS. BOILED
BEETS CUT INTO STRIPS AROUND THE WATERCRESS. LETTUCE CUT INTO RIBBONS
AROUND THE BEETS. THE WHOLE MOISTENED WITH FRENCH DRESSING.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 181.png
.pn +1
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 5. Bouquet salad. Use a good head of cabbage lettuce.
Arrange the white leaves, in a bunch resembling the
natural head, in the center of a flat dish. Garnish
with slices of tomato and hard-boiled eggs. Just before
serving cover the whole with plain French
dressing. Use a spoon and pour the dressing on
carefully so that all the parts will be moistened
without being disarranged.
.ni
Mayonnaise may be used on the eggs and tomato
if preferred, in which case the dressing should be
put on the eggs in the cups under the yolks.
.in 0
// 187.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-095.jpg w=600px id=fig-095
.ca
NO. 95. BOUQUET SALAD. A MOUND OF CELERY, CUT INTO
DICE, IN THE CENTER. RADISHES, CUT TO RESEMBLE ROSES, PLACED AROUND
THE CELERY AND ONE ON TOP. WATERCRESS AROUND THE WHOLE. ALL MOISTENED
WITH FRENCH DRESSING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 95. BOUQUET SALAD. A MOUND OF CELERY, CUT INTO
DICE, IN THE CENTER. RADISHES, CUT TO RESEMBLE ROSES, PLACED AROUND
THE CELERY AND ONE ON TOP. WATERCRESS AROUND THE WHOLE. ALL MOISTENED
WITH FRENCH DRESSING.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-096.jpg w=600px id=fig-096
.ca
NO. 96. BOUQUET SALAD. PILE OF CUT BEETS IN THE CENTER.
SURROUNDED BY ALTERNATE PILES OF CELERY AND WATERCRESS. A RADISH ON
EACH PILE OF CELERY. ALL MOISTENED WITH FRENCH DRESSING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 96. BOUQUET SALAD. PILE OF CUT BEETS IN THE CENTER.
SURROUNDED BY ALTERNATE PILES OF CELERY AND WATERCRESS. A RADISH ON
EACH PILE OF CELERY. ALL MOISTENED WITH FRENCH DRESSING.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-097.jpg w=600px id=fig-097
.ca
NO. 97. BOUQUET SALAD. HARD-BOILED EGGS ON A BED OF
MAYONNAISE. CIRCLE OF CUT BEETS AROUND THE MAYONNAISE. LETTUCE CUT
INTO RIBBONS AROUND THE BEETS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 97. BOUQUET SALAD. HARD-BOILED EGGS ON A BED OF
MAYONNAISE. CIRCLE OF CUT BEETS AROUND THE MAYONNAISE. LETTUCE CUT
INTO RIBBONS AROUND THE BEETS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-098.jpg w=600px id=fig-098
.ca
NO. 98. SALAD OF ASPARAGUS TIPS. A PILE OF BOILED ASPARAGUS TIPS SURROUNDED
BY A WREATH OF WHITE LETTUCE LEAVES AND RADISHES
CUT TO RESEMBLE ROSES, PLACED ALTERNATELY. ALL
MOISTENED WITH FRENCH DRESSING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 98. SALAD OF ASPARAGUS TIPS. A PILE OF BOILED
ASPARAGUS TIPS SURROUNDED BY A WREATH OF WHITE LETTUCE LEAVES AND
RADISHES CUT TO RESEMBLE ROSES, PLACED ALTERNATELY. ALL MOISTENED
WITH FRENCH DRESSING.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-099.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 99. SALAD OF ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, LETTUCE, AND PEAS,
WITH MAYONNAISE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 99. SALAD OF ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, LETTUCE, AND PEAS,
WITH MAYONNAISE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
Illustrations Nos. #94:fig-094#, #95:fig-095#, #96:fig-096#, #97:fig-097#. Bouquet salads arranged as explained in legends
under the illustrations.
.ti -6
No. 10. Daisy salad. Select tender green leaves of lettuce.
Cut the stalks so that the leaves will lie straight and
keep in place. Put a spoonful of mayonnaise in
each leaf, then arrange on each one in rosette form
the white of a hard-boiled egg cut lengthwise into
strips, and place a whole yolk in the center.
.ti -6
No. 11. Salad of asparagus tips. See illustration #No. 98:fig-098#.
.ti -6
No. 12. Salad of artichoke bottoms. Take artichoke bottoms
as they come from the can. Rinse them off with cold
water. Spread each one with mayonnaise and pile
on it as many vegetables as it will hold. Use green
peas, string beans, flowerets of cauliflower, or any
mixture of vegetables that may be convenient. Place
a little mayonnaise on top of the vegetables, and
place the artichoke cups on leaves of lettuce arranged
around a bed of mayonnaise. Or a glass
or cup filled with mayonnaise can be placed in the
// 182.png
.pn +1
center of the dish and the individual portions arranged around it.
.ti -6
No. 13. Vegetable salad. Mix together equal portions of cold boiled
string beans, cut in half-inch lengths, and lima beans. Pile them on a
flat dish with a surrounding border of lettuce leaves. Pour over them
slowly plenty of French dressing.
This is a good hot-weather salad to serve with cold meats on hot days
when hot dishes are not acceptable.
.ti -6
No. 14. Macedoine of vegetables. Boil small portions of as many
different kinds of vegetables as convenient, and keep them in separate
dishes. When they are cold, and shortly before serving, moisten them
with French dressing. Just before serving mix them together, adding
some mayonnaise.
Peas, string beans, lima beans, flageolets, carrots, cut into dice,
and beets cut into dice, make a good combination.
.ti -6
No. 15. Aspic of vegetables en bellevue. Fill individual timbale molds
with any or with different kinds of vegetables, then turn in enough
aspic (see page #125#) to cover them, and place them in the ice-box to
set.
Use these forms on cold fish or meat dishes with mayonnaise under
them. They require a dressing, but if it were mixed with the
vegetables it would cloud the jelly.
.ti -6
No. 16. Cucumber and tomato salad. Peel the tomatoes, cut them in two,
and cover each piece with mayonnaise. Place them on one side of a
vegetable-dish, and on
// 183.png
// 184.png
// 185.png
.pn +1
the other side place sliced cucumbers moistened with French dressing.
Separate the two with crisp leaves of lettuce.
.ti -6
No. 17. Tomato and green pepper salad. Cut peeled tomatoes into slices
three eighths of an inch thick. Cover them with a thick layer of
chopped green peppers. Place them in the center of the dish with a
border of crisp lettuce leaves. Moisten the whole with French
dressing.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-100.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 100. TURNIP CUPS HOLDING CELERY MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 100. TURNIP CUPS HOLDING CELERY MIXED WITH MAYONNAISE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 18. Turnip cups with celery. Select turnips of uniform size and
not too large. Cut off the tops to give a flat surface for the bottom
of the cups. Cut a slice about two inches thick from each turnip. With
a fluted knife pare the outside into rounding shape, then with a
potato-scoop take out the centers and form a cup.
Leave the cups in water until ready to use; they will keep twenty-four
hours or more in this way. Chop some parsley very fine and spread it
on a board. Moisten the edges of the cups and press them on the
parsley. This will give a green edge around the tops. Fill the cups
with celery mayonnaise, or with any vegetable salad.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-101.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 101. CELERY AND APPLE WITH CREAM MAYONNAISE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 101. CELERY AND APPLE WITH CREAM MAYONNAISE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 19. Celery and apple salad. Cut a bunch of crisp white celery into
small bits, add a chopped green pepper and a teaspoonful of chopped
pimento. Mix it with mayonnaise. Cut into dice one quarter as much
apple as you have of celery. Just before serving mix it with the
celery, and the whole with whipped cream.
Pile the salad in a mound on a flat dish and garnish
// 186.png
.pn +1
it with lettuce or other leaves and radishes. For one bunch of celery
there will be needed two apples and a half pint of cream.
The celery is quickly prepared by cutting the stalks into strips one
quarter of an inch thick, then laying them together in a pile and
cutting them all together into lengths of one quarter of an inch or
less. Tart apples of good flavor should be used. Remove the seeds and
ribs of the green pepper and cut it into fine bits. Pimentos are
Spanish red peppers and are very mild. They come in cans and can be
bought at the grocer’s.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-102.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 102. INDIVIDUAL APPLE SALAD. CELERY AND APPLE MIXED WITH
CREAM MAYONNAISE, SERVED IN APPLES. GARNISHED
WITH A WHITE LETTUCE LEAF.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 102. INDIVIDUAL APPLE SALAD. CELERY AND APPLE
MIXED WITH CREAM MAYONNAISE, SERVED IN APPLES. GARNISHED WITH A WHITE
LETTUCE LEAF.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 20. Individual apple salad. Select apples that are best both in
color and flavor. Take out the core carefully, using a pointed knife,
and make the hollow on the stem end. An apple-corer can be used, in
which case the end piece should be put back again to plug the bottom.
The wall of the apple should be half an inch thick. Fill the hollowed
out apple with creamed celery and apple mixture, as given on page #121#,
omitting the green pepper and pimento. Serve on individual plates with
one white lettuce leaf at the side of each apple.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-103.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 103. CABBAGE SALAD. SERVED IN CABBAGE LEAVES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 103. CABBAGE SALAD. SERVED IN CABBAGE LEAVES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 21. Cabbage salad. Add to a cupful of cream the beaten yolks of
two eggs, one teaspoonful of mustard, one half teaspoonful each of
salt, pepper, and sugar, and half a tablespoonful of celery seeds. Put
all this in a double boiler and stir until it thickens. Let it cool.
When ready to serve add to the dressing a tablespoonful of vinegar and
mix it with cabbage chopped fine. Serve in cabbage leaves as shown
// 188.png
// 189.png
.pn +1
in illustration. Cold slaw may be served in the
same way.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-104.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 104. MASHED POTATO SALAD.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 104. MASHED POTATO SALAD.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 22. Mashed potato salad. To a quart or a little more of
mashed potatoes add three tablespoonfuls of oil, a
teaspoonful each of onion juice and salt, a dash of
nutmeg, one half teaspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful
of pickled beets chopped fine, a tablespoonful
of cucumber pickle chopped fine, and a tablespoonful
of vinegar taken from the pickled-beet jar.
Beat all together until the potato is light. The beet
vinegar will color it pink. If a deeper color is wanted
add a little more of the red vinegar. The potato
should be a moist purée. If the salad is too dry
after the ingredients are in add a little soup stock
or water. Shape into a mound without pressing
it, and garnish it with slices of beets, pickles, and
lettuce.
.in 0
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.il fn=fig-105.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 105. SHAD ROE SALAD.
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[Illustration: NO. 105. SHAD ROE SALAD.]
.sp 2
.if-
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 23. Shad roe salad. Wash the roe carefully and place
it in salted water. The water must not boil or it will
break the skin. Simmer it for twenty minutes. After
cooling cut it with a sharp knife into slices quarter
of an inch thick. Place the slices, overlapping,
on a dish. Garnish with lettuce leaves. Pour over
the roe a plentiful amount of French dressing.
.in 0
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.il fn=fig-106.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 106. CHICKEN SALAD.
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.if-
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 106. CHICKEN SALAD.]
.sp 2
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.in 6
.ti -6
No. 24. Chicken salad. Cut cold chicken into half-inch dice,
using both white and dark meat. Moisten it with
French dressing. Cut tender celery into small dice
and mix it with the chicken, using two thirds as
much celery as there is of chicken. Mix the whole
with mayonnaise. Form it into a mound. Cover it
with mayonnaise. Decorate the mound as follows:
// 190.png
.pn +1
Begin at the top and form four lines of chopped pickled beet, dividing
the form into four sections. Follow the lines of beet with lines of
chopped white of hard-boiled eggs. This will leave triangular spaces.
Make another line of beets and fill the spaces left with the crumbed
yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Outline the small triangular spaces with
capers and finish the top with an olive and sprigs of parsley. Place
lettuce leaves and slices of hard-boiled egg around the dish. Veal
instead of chicken may be used in the same way. Lobster salad should
be mixed with lettuce instead of celery.
.ti -6
No. 25. Chestnut salad. Mix together two cupfuls each of tart apples
cut into half-inch dice, celery cut into small pieces, and boiled
chestnuts cut into half-inch pieces.
Put in a double boiler:
.in 6
.nf l
2 tablespoonfuls of butter,
9 tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
½ teaspoonful of sugar,
1½ teaspoonfuls of mustard,
1 teaspoonful of salt,
¼ teaspoonful of pepper,
yolks of four eggs.
.nf-
.in 0
.in 6
Beat all this well together and stir until thickened. After it has
cooled and just before serving add the dressing and a cupful of
whipped cream to the salad mixture.
.ti -6
No. 26. Fruit salads. Fruits are sometimes mixed with mayonnaise and
used as a salad.
The following mixtures may be used: Pineapple, oranges, and apples.
Grape-fruit, oranges, and canned pears. Pineapple and banana. Apple
and grape-fruit. Garnish with lettuce leaves.
.in 0
.pi
// 191.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
COLD SERVICE
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.il fn=fig-107.jpg w=600px
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NO. 107. CHICKEN ASPIC.
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[Illustration: NO. 107. CHICKEN ASPIC.]
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.sp 2
.h4
CHICKEN ASPIC
.pi
Make a chicken stock as for chicken consommé, page #46#.
Use a knuckle of veal and as many quarts of water as you
have pounds of meat. Remove the breast of the fowl when it
is tender. Clarify the stock, and if it has not made a jelly
firm enough to stand add a little gelatine,—a tablespoonful
of granulated gelatine to a quart of stock will perhaps be
more than enough, for the jelly must not be too hard, and the
jellied stock may need but very little extra stiffness to make
it hold its shape when molded.
Ornament the bottom of a ring-mold with slices of the
white of hard-boiled egg cut into diamond-shaped pieces.
Lay the pieces, with thin strips of egg between them, in a
manner to imitate a wreath of leaves. A long pin will be
useful in arranging the pieces of egg. Put the mold in a
bowl of cracked ice, and with a spoon add a very little liquid
jelly, taking care not to use enough to float the pieces of egg.
When it has set sufficiently to hold the decoration in place
add enough more jelly to make a layer a quarter of an inch
thick. When the layer has stiffened, put in a layer of
chicken breast cut into inch lengths, so the jelly will not be
torn apart when being served, but place the pieces close together
so they appear like large pieces. Add more jelly, letting
it rise a quarter of an inch above the chicken; when that
has stiffened, add another layer of chicken and fill the mold
with jelly. Let the mold be level and have a smooth layer
of gelatine on top, so when unmolded it will stand firm and
even.
Fill the center of the ring with celery mayonnaise, or a
macedoine vegetable salad.
// 192.png
.pn +1
.if h
.il fn=fig-108.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 108. ASPIC OF PÂTÉ DE FOIE GRAS.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 108. ASPIC OF PÂTÉ DE FOIE GRAS.]
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.if-
.sp 2
.h4
ASPIC OF PÂTÉ DE FOIE GRAS
Make a chicken aspic as directed above. When a mold is
used which has projections on top, as in illustration, the jelly
must be made a little firmer than for a plain mold. Pour
into the mold a layer of jelly, let it stiffen, and then add a
layer of pâté de foie gras and a little jelly to set it. Then
fill the mold with jelly. Care must be taken in unmolding
this form, for if held a moment too long in hot water the
points will fall off or lose shape.
.sp 2
.h4
CHICKEN MOUSSE
Put through a chopper cooked chicken, using the white
or the dark meat, or both. Grind it a second time, if necessary,
to make it very fine. If a meat-chopper is not at hand,
chop it by hand, pound it to free the meat from the fiber,
and rub it through a purée sieve.
Heat a cupful of chicken stock, pour it over the beaten
yolks of three eggs, add a teaspoonful each of salt and celery
salt, a dash of pepper and of paprika. Return it to the fire
and stir until it has thickened like a boiled custard; add
two tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine which has soaked
for an hour in a quarter cupful of cold chicken stock. When
the gelatine has dissolved, remove it from the fire and add
one and one half cupfuls of the fine chicken meat. When
the mixture begins to thicken stir it perfectly smooth and
fold in a half pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. Turn
it into a brick mold. The cream must not be added until
the mixture begins to set, or the ingredients will settle into
layers.
Serve with lettuce or celery salad.
// 193.png
// 194.png
// 195.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
LIVER LOAF OR COLD TIMBALE
Line a pint brick mold with thin slices of larding pork.
Pour in liver timbale mixture given on page #78#. Fill the
mold to within a quarter of an inch of the top. Cover it with
slices of pork. Set it in a pan of water and cook in a slow
oven for one hour, or until firm to the touch.
Serve cold in slices with salad.
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.il fn=fig-109.jpg w=600px id=fig-109
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NO. 109. SLICED COLD MEATS.
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[Illustration: NO. 109. SLICED COLD MEATS.]
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.h4
COLD SLICED MEATS
Illustration #No. 109:fig-109# shows an attractive way of serving
cold meats. On the right are overlapping slices of cold
tongue; on the left, slices of beef. A slice of tongue cut
round is placed in the center to cover the spot where they
meet. Slices of cold chicken are placed at right angles to the
tongue and beef. Aspic jelly is placed in the four angles.
The garnishing is sliced pickled beets cut into stars and
hearts, and small pickles or gherkins sliced down to nearly
the end, then spread into leaf shapes. The stars are placed
on the sliced meat, the hearts on the dish in front of the
jelly, with a slice of pickle on each side, and the leaf-like
gherkins are in the center.
The aspic used in this dish was jellied stock made a
little stiffer with gelatine.
Cold meats may also be attractively served by placing a
socle made of hominy in the center of the dish, the top of the
hominy ornamented with aspic or any garnishes, and the
sliced meats laid around and against the socle.
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.il fn=fig-110.jpg w=600px
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NO. 110. GLAZED TONGUE, GARNISHED WITH BUTTER.
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[Illustration: NO. 110. GLAZED TONGUE, GARNISHED WITH BUTTER.]
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.sp 2
.h4
GLAZED TONGUE
Boil a smoked or a fresh tongue until tender, then skin and
trim it. While it is flexible skewer it into a good shape.
Paint it with glaze (page #104#).
Whip some butter with a fork until it is soft and very
// 196.png
.pn +1
light. Place the whipped butter in a pastry-bag with star
tube and press it through, outlining a figure on the sides of
the tongue and down the middle.
Garnish the dish with parsley and a hard-boiled egg. Cut
the white of the egg in strips lengthwise, leave the yolk
whole, and arrange the pieces so they resemble a daisy.
Keep the garnished tongue in a cold place until ready to
serve, in order to harden the butter.
.if h
.il fn=fig-111.jpg w=600px id=fig-111
.ca
NO. 111. BOILED HAM, NO. 1.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 111. BOILED HAM, NO. 1.]
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.sp 2
.h4
BOILED HAM
Soak the ham overnight, with the rind side up. Thoroughly
wash and scrape off any bad parts. Put it in sufficient
cold water to cover it well. Add a bunch of soup vegetables
and two bay-leaves. Boil it slowly, allowing twenty
minutes to the pound, counting from the time the water
begins to boil. It is done when the meat around the bone is
tender. Place it on a board, peel off the skin, and by trimming
make it smooth and shapely. Take a slice off the bottom,
if necessary, to make it stand firmly. Serve it hot or
cold.
In illustration #No. 111:fig-111# the ham after being trimmed is
covered with cracker dust and sugar and placed in the
oven to brown. The bone is covered with a pleated paper
frill, and a lemon cut to imitate a pig (see page #16#) is set
on top.
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.il fn=fig-112.jpg w=600px id=fig-112
.ca
NO. 112. BOILED HAM, NO. 2.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 112. BOILED HAM, NO. 2.]
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In illustration #No. 112:fig-112# black pepper is placed in spots
on the fat, and then with the finger is rubbed into regular
circles. A whole clove is stuck in the center of each spot
of pepper. If the ham is to be served cold the parts not
covered by fat can be concealed with a layer of butter;
the butter should be whipped until smooth and soft and
then spread evenly with a knife. In this way the whole ham
can be made smooth and the spots of pepper can be extended
entirely over it.
// 197.png
// 198.png
// 199.png
.pn +1
The bone is covered with a paper frill (page #14#). The dish
is garnished with slices of pickled beets stamped into rounds.
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.il fn=fig-113.jpg w=600px
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NO. 113. GLAZED BONED HAM GARNISHED WITH WATERCRESS.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 113. GLAZED BONED HAM GARNISHED WITH WATERCRESS.]
.sp 2
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.h4
BONED HAM
Boil the ham as directed above. While it is still hot strip
off the skin, then turn it over and remove the bone. If the
ham is thoroughly cooked, the bone will come out easily.
Make a cut down to and along the bone in the center of the
under side, then work the knife around and close to the bone
until the latter is loosened enough to be pulled out.
Lay the boned ham on a cloth, draw it together and sew
the cloth around it, pressing the ham firmly together, and
giving it a good shape. Place a board and heavy weights
on the ham, and let it cool while under this pressure.
Remove the cloth. Trim it again, if necessary. Cover it
with a meat glaze (see page #104#). Garnish with a wreath
of watercress.
.if h
.il fn=fig-114.jpg w=600px id=fig-114
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NO. 114. COLD FISH COVERED WITH JELLIED MAYONNAISE AND GARNISHED
WITH BEETS AND OLIVES.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 114. COLD FISH COVERED WITH JELLIED MAYONNAISE AND GARNISHED
WITH BEETS AND OLIVES.]
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.h4
COLD FISH
Garnished cold fish makes an ornamental and useful dish
for buffet luncheons, and for summer service, when cold
dishes of any kind are acceptable. Illustration #No. 114:fig-114#
shows a bluefish boiled in upright position, covered with
jellied mayonnaise and garnished with pickled beets, cranberries,
and gherkins. It is placed on a layer of bread to
raise it on the dish. To prepare the dish, place a carrot
inside the fish to give it stability, then tie and prop it with
vegetables on the kettle-strainer, in the position desired.
Boil it slowly, allowing ten minutes to the pound. Put soup
vegetables, a bay-leaf, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in
the water. When cooked, lift the fish out carefully and let
it get cold before removing it from the strainer.
Take off the skin and cover it with a mayonnaise made as
// 200.png
.pn +1
follows: Heat a cupful of clear beef or chicken stock, and
dissolve in it one and a half tablespoonfuls of granulated
gelatine which has soaked for an hour in half a cupful of
cold water. When it has cooled add half a cupful of oil,
a tablespoonful of vinegar or of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful
of salt, a dash of pepper, and the beaten yolk of an egg.
When it begins to set spread it over the fish with a knife.
It will give a smooth, polished yellow covering. Garnish with
slices of pickled beets stamped into various shapes.
Bass, salmon, bluefish, and halibut are good varieties to
serve cold. They may be masked with the aspic mayonnaise
given above, or with a plain, thick mayonnaise, or with tartare
sauce, or with maître d’hôtel butter. The covering
should be spread with a knife to make it smooth, and the
fish kept in a cool place until the time of serving. Hard-boiled
eggs, capers, pickles, lettuce, watercress, and parsley
are suitable garnishes.
.sp 2
.h4
JELLIED CUTLETS
Cut cold boiled sheepshead or other fish into flat, even
pieces, each piece a size suitable for one portion. Lay them
in a pan, leaving spaces between them. Place on each piece
a thin slice of hard-boiled egg, then pour over them just
enough aspic jelly to cover them. The aspic should have
a little lemon juice or vinegar mixed with it to make it tart.
When the jelly is set, cut the pieces apart with a sharp
knife and arrange them on a dish with creamed horseradish
sauce.
.sp 2
.h4
FISH IN THE GARDEN
Skin a cold boiled trout, bass, or other fish. Cover it with
mayonnaise, or with maître d’hôtel butter. Garnish it with
aspic jelly and surround it with vegetables molded in jelly
as in illustration #No. 6:fig-006#. Use peas, beans, celery, etc.
// 201.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
COLD HALIBUT
Cover a thick piece of boiled halibut with mayonnaise.
Sprinkle the top with chopped capers. Garnish it with potato
salad, the potatoes being cut into balls.
.sp 2
.h4
CHEESE
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NO. 115. CREAM CHEESE WITH BAR-LE-DUC CURRANTS.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 115. CREAM CHEESE WITH BAR-LE-DUC CURRANTS.]
.sp 2
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.h4
CREAM CHEESE WITH BAR-LE-DUC CURRANTS
Beat with a fork a square of Philadelphia cream cheese,
or of domestic Neufchâtel, until it is light and smooth.
Whip three tablespoonfuls of cream to a stiff froth. Mix the
cheese and whipped cream together lightly and pile the
mixture on a dish in which it is to be served. Put it in a cool
place. Just before serving pour over it a glassful of Bar-le-Duc
red currants.
// 202.png
// 203.png
.pn +1
.pn +1 // blank pages sometimes included in pagination
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch10
Chapter X||NINTH COURSE
.sp 2
.nf c
HOT DESSERTS—COLD DESSERTS—PIES—TARTS
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.sp 4
// 204.png
.pb
.sp 2
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.nf c
HOT DESSERTS
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.in 6
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Farina Croquettes
Pudding, Huckleberry
Pudding, Chocolate Bread
Pudding, Cocoanut Bread
Pudding, Fig
Pudding, Green-Gage
Pudding, Tapioca, with Prunes
Bananas, Sautéd
Bananas, Baked, No. 1
Bananas, Baked, No. 2
Quinces, Baked
Strawberry Soufflé
Fruit and other Soufflés
Burning Peaches
Burning Cherries
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.in 0
.nf c
COLD DESSERTS
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.in 6
.nf l
Apples Richelieu
Apples, Stewed, No. 1
Apples, Stewed, No. 2
Apples, Baked
Figs, Compote of
Apricots, Compote of
Pears, Compote of
Bananas and Cream
Strawberries and Cream
Peaches and Cream
Bread and Jam Tartlets
Pine Cones
Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 1
Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 2
Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 3
Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 4
Pudding, Peach
Pudding, Tapioca
Pudding, Rice Prune
Pudding, Jellied Apple
Pudding, Pineapple
Savarins
Babas
Coffee Mousse
Peach Mousse
Chestnut Purée
Chestnut Bavarian
Charlotte Russe
Charlotte Russe, Strawberry, No. 1
Charlotte Russe, Strawberry, No. 2
Meringue Ring
Meringue Crown
Meringue Cream Tart, No. 1
Meringue Cream Tart, No. 2
Meringues filled with Whipped Cream or Ice Cream
Chocolate Cream
Chocolate Sponge
Sliced Bavarian Cream Garnished with Cream Cakes
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.in 0
.sp 2
.nf c
PIES-TARTS
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.in 6
.nf l
Jam Tart of Puff Paste
Strawberry Tartlets
Frangipane Tartlets
Frangipane Cream
Fruit Tartlets
Jalousies
Pie, Cranberry
Pie, Cocoanut
Pie, Currant
Pie, Lemon, No. 1
Pie, Lemon, No. 2
Strawberry Cake, No. 1
Strawberry Cake, No. 2
Currant Shortcake
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.sp 2
.pb
// 205.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.h3
HOT DESSERTS
.h4
FARINA CROQUETTES
Put two cupfuls of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt
into a double boiler. When the milk is hot add half a cupful
of farina, and moisten with a little milk to make it smooth.
Cook about twenty minutes, or until it is well thickened,
then add the yolk of an egg. When it is cold mold it into
small croquettes. Roll the croquettes in egg and white
bread crumbs, or cracker dust, and fry in smoking-hot fat
to a bright yellow color.
Serve with maple sugar scraped from the cake.
.h4
HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING
.in 6
.nf l
2 cupfuls of flour,
½ cupful of granulated sugar,
2 cupfuls of berries,
1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder,
½ saltspoonful of salt,
1 teaspoonful of butter,
Milk.
.nf-
.in 0
Mix well the sugar, salt, and baking powder with the
flour, then rub in a teaspoonful of butter, and stir in quickly
enough milk to make a batter which will drop from the spoon.
Add the berries well floured, and turn the mixture into a
greased quart pudding-mold. Steam or boil it for half an
hour.
// 206.png
.pn +1
It should be mixed quickly and the water should not be
allowed to fall below the boiling-point while the pudding
is cooking. Serve with any pudding sauce.
.h4
CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING
.in 6
.nf l
1 cupful of stale crumb of bread,
2 cupfuls of milk,
½ cupful of sugar,
3 squares of unsweetened chocolate,
½ teaspoonful of vanilla,
1 egg.
.nf-
.in 0
Scald the milk and turn it over the bread, broken into
small pieces. Let it soak until the bread is soft, then beat it
with a fork to a smooth pulp and add the chocolate, melted,
the sugar, vanilla, and yolk of the egg, also a dash of salt.
Lastly fold in the white of the egg whipped to a stiff froth.
Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.
.h4
COCOANUT BREAD PUDDING
Pour a cupful of scalded milk over a cupful of broken
bits of crumb of bread. Let the bread soak until softened,
then beat it to smoothness. Add a cupful of grated cocoanut,
half a cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and
the yolks of two eggs. Mix well, and then add the whites
of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake in a moderate
oven for thirty minutes. Serve hot or cold.
.h4
FIG PUDDING
Weigh three eggs; take the same weight of butter, sugar,
figs, and of crumb of bread. Chop the figs, put a little hot
water on them, and cook them to a pulp. Grate the bread
to very fine crumbs. Mix together the butter and sugar,
// 207.png
.pn +1
add the yolks of the eggs, then the figs and the crumbs,
and lastly the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth.
Turn the mixture into a covered quart mold, and steam for
two and a half hours; or put it into individual timbale molds,
set them into a pan of water, cover them with a greased
paper, and cook in an oven for thirty minutes, or until firm
to the touch. At the moment of serving pour over them a
little rum or brandy and light it with a taper.
Serve with wine sauce, or with any other pudding sauce.
.h4
GREEN-GAGE PUDDING
Butter well a quart granite-ware basin. Arrange on the
bottom a layer of green-gage plums (California canned
plums), then fill the dish heaping full of the crumb of stale
bread cut into dice. Beat two eggs enough to break them, and
mix them with two cupfuls of milk. Pour the egg and milk
mixture slowly over the bread with a spoon, so the bread will
soak up the liquid. Set the pudding-dish in a pan of water
and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Let it stand
a few minutes, then invert it on a dish and do not lift it
off the tin for a few minutes longer. Serve with a sauce
made of a cupful of juice from the can, with a heaping
tablespoonful of sugar added to it and then boiled until
clear.
.h4
TAPIOCA PUDDING WITH PRUNES
Soak three tablespoonfuls of tapioca in cold water for
two hours. Use two and a half cupfuls of water. Stew
dried prunes until they begin to swell. Add to the soaked
tapioca (there should be four heaping tablespoonfuls of it)
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of butter, and
two cupfuls of milk or water. Spread a layer of prunes over
the bottom of a quart pudding-dish, then fill the dish with
// 208.png
.pn +1
the tapioca mixture and bake it twenty-five to thirty-five
minutes in a slow oven.
.h4
SAUTÉD BANANAS
Select bananas that are not quite ripe. Peel and cut them
in two lengthwise. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a sauté-pan;
when it bubbles add a tablespoonful of sugar and lay
in the bananas. When the bananas are tender take them
out carefully and lay them in an even row on a hot dish.
Add half a cupful of cream to the pan and mix it well
with the butter and sugar. The sugar should be cooked
enough to give a caramel flavor. Add two or three tablespoonfuls
of sherry, or just enough to take away the very
sweet taste. Pour this sauce over the bananas.
.h4
BAKED BANANAS, No. 1
Select bananas that are not quite ripe, detach the skins.
Bake the bananas in the skins for twenty to thirty minutes,
or until tender but not soft. Turn them out of the skins,
lay them in an even row on a hot dish, and pour over them
some melted currant jelly.
.h4
BAKED BANANAS, No. 2
Mix two tablespoonfuls of butter with three tablespoonfuls
of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and place
it on the fire to melt the butter. Peel bananas and lay
them uncut in a baking-pan; pour over them the buttered
mixture and bake them until tender, basting them frequently.
Place them in an even row on a flat dish and
pour over them the liquor from the pan.
.h4
BAKED QUINCES
Peel and core the quinces, then cut them in halves and
bake them in a pan with a very little water until tender.
// 209.png
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.il fn=fig-116.jpg w=600px
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NO. 116. GREEN-GAGE PUDDING.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 116. GREEN-GAGE PUDDING.]
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.il fn=fig-117.jpg w=600px
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NO. 117. BAKED QUINCES.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 117. BAKED QUINCES.]
.sp 2
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.il fn=fig-118.jpg w=600px
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NO. 118. STEWED APPLES, NO. 1, WITH JAM AND ALMONDS.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 118. STEWED APPLES, NO. 1, WITH JAM AND ALMONDS.]
.sp 2
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// 210.png
// 211.png
.pn +1
When they are cooked, spread the tops with butter and a
plentiful amount of sugar. Serve hot. Pass butter and
sugar.
.sp 2
.h4
SOUFFLÉS
Soufflés are one of the most elegant dessert dishes. They
are esteemed for their delicacy rather than their richness,
and the difficulty in making them gives them distinction,
as they are usually presented only from the hand of an expert
cook. There is no reason, however, that any one should
not succeed in making a perfect soufflé, though it is one of the
popular delusions that they are very difficult to make. With
intelligent care about the heat of the oven, a soufflé can be
made with less trouble than is given to many other simple
desserts. The whites of eggs must be beaten until filled with
air. They are then placed in a moderate oven, where the
heated air expands and puffs up the whole mass. The baking
is continued until the air-cells are enough hardened to
support the weight, and the dish must be served at once and
before the imprisoned air cools and the mass collapses.
.h4
STRAWBERRY SOUFFLÉ
Beat to a stiff, dry froth the whites of as many eggs as
needed, allowing one white for each person and one for the
dish, then fold in lightly enough strawberry jam to sweeten
it; or use strawberry pulp and sugar. Turn it into a pudding-dish
and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes.
Serve at once. The soufflé must go directly from the oven to
the table.
.h4
FRUIT AND OTHER SOUFFLÉS
To the whipped whites of eggs may be added half the
number of yolks and powdered sugar enough to sweeten, or
chocolate, or any jam, or softened jelly, or fruit juice, or
// 212.png
.pn +1
the pulp of any fruit with the juice drained off. Fruit must
be pressed through a purée sieve to make the pulp fine and
soft.
.h4
BURNING PEACHES
Place California canned whole peaches and the juice in a
deep dish. Just before serving pour over them some brandy
or rum and light it with a taper.
.h4
BURNING CHERRIES
Serve California white cherries in the same way as directed
above for peaches.
.sp 2
.h3
COLD DESSERTS
.h4
APPLES RICHELIEU
Take out the cores of well-flavored apples and cut them
crosswise into halves. Simmer them in sugar and water until
tender. Let them cool. Lay several pieces of sliced blanched
almonds straight, at regular intervals, upon the flat sides of
the apples. Sprinkle them with powdered sugar and set
them in the oven a minute to brown the sugar. Place candied
cherries cut in halves upon the apples between the almonds.
Just before serving put spoonfuls of whipped cream at intervals
on a flat dish and place the cold apples upon the
cream; or press the cream through a pastry-bag in circles
around the apples.
.h4
STEWED APPLES, No. 1
Select apples of uniform size and shape. Remove the cores
and peel them carefully. Put them into hot water with sugar
// 213.png
.pn +1
and lemon juice. Cook them slowly until tender, but not so
long that they lose shape. When they are cold fill the centers
with sweetened and flavored boiled rice and cover them with
apricot or any jam. Sprinkle them with blanched almonds
cut in strips.
.h4
STEWED APPLES, No. 2
Prepare the apples as for No. 1. Fill the centers with
well-flavored apple purée, or with apple jelly mixed with
chopped raisins. Sprinkle them with granulated sugar and
stick into them blanched almonds cut into strips and slightly
browned.
Serve with cream, if convenient.
Apple purée and apple jelly can be made from the parings
and cores of the apples. Put these trimmings in a saucepan
with a little water and cook them to a pulp. Press the pulp
through a sieve for the purée, or strain it through a cloth
for the juice. Return the juice to the fire, let it boil a minute,
then add half a pound of hot sugar to a cupful of
juice. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and boil until a few
drops put on a cold plate jelly. Turn it into glasses to set.
.sp 2
.h4
BAKED APPLES
Peel and core good-flavored, tart apples. Put a small piece
of butter in each one and sprinkle them with sugar so they
will brown well. Put them in a pan with a little water and
bake until tender, then remove and put on each one two drops
of almond extract. Add a little sugar to the water in the pan
and cook it down to a thick syrup, then strain it slowly over
the apples to glaze them; or stick three cloves into each apple
before baking them, and omit the almond extract; or fill
the centers with the sugar, lemon peel, and stick cinnamon
before baking, or with blanched almonds and raisins after
baking.
.if h
.il fn=fig-119.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 119. COMPOTE OF FIGS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 119. COMPOTE OF FIGS.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 214.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
COMPOTE OF FIGS
Put a pound of pulled figs in a bowl and cover them with
water. Let them soak for several hours, or until they are
softened and expanded, then press each one into natural
shape and pile them on a dish. Take the water in which
they were soaked, add enough sugar to sweeten it, and a
thick slice of lemon. Boil it until it is a good syrup, then
pour it over the figs. Let the figs cool before serving. Or to
each cupful of fig water add a cupful of sugar and boil it
to the crack, then pour it slowly over the figs. This will
give them a coating of sugar. Serve with whipped cream
flavored with kirsch.
The figs, being very sweet, are improved by using a flavoring
which is sharp like lemon or kirsch. If lemon is used,
pour the juice over the figs, as it will curdle the cream if
mixed with it.
.if h
.il fn=fig-120.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 120. COMPOTE OF APRICOTS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 120. COMPOTE OF APRICOTS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
COMPOTE OF APRICOTS
Prepare dried apricots the same as directed for compote of
pears. Place half a blanched almond in the center of each
piece to imitate a pit.
.if h
.il fn=fig-121.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 121. COMPOTE OF PEARS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 121. COMPOTE OF PEARS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
COMPOTE OF PEARS
Soak dried California pears in water overnight, or for
several hours until they swell to natural shape. Arrange
them symmetrically on a dish, or around a form of rice,
as in illustration. To the water in which the pears were
soaked add enough sugar to make it sweet, and boil it down
to a syrup, then add a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Pour
the hot syrup over the fruit. Serve cold.
// 215.png
// 216.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-122.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 122. BANANAS AND CREAM.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 122. BANANAS AND CREAM.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 217.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
BANANAS AND CREAM
Cut bananas into slices one quarter of an inch thick. Arrange
them in a pile in the center of the dish and place
around them spoonfuls of whipped cream. The cream may
be flavored with sherry or vanilla, but use no sugar, as the
fruit is sweet enough without it.
.sp 2
.h4
STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM
Mix enough sugar with cream to sweeten it thoroughly,
and then whip it until it is stiff and dry. A half pint of
cream is enough for a quart of berries. When ready to
serve, mix the berries in the cream and serve them piled on a
flat dish.
.sp 2
.h4
PEACHES AND CREAM
Cut peeled peaches into slices and put them in the ice-box.
Add as much sugar to a half pint of cream as will be
needed to sweeten the peaches. Whip the cream to a stiff
froth. At the moment of serving, mix together lightly the
peaches and cream; or an hour or more before serving, mix
the cream and fruit, put it in a covered mold, and pack in
ice and salt. Use but little salt, for the object is to make
the peaches very cold, but not to freeze them.
.if h
.il fn=fig-123.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 123. BREAD AND JAM TARTLETS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 123. BREAD AND JAM TARTLETS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
BREAD AND JAM TARTLETS
Cut very light bread into slices one quarter of an inch
thick. Stamp these pieces into rounds with a biscuit-cutter.
Put them in a sauté-pan with a little butter, and brown them
on both sides. When they are cool, spread them with any
kind of jam or preserved fruit, and just before serving
ornament them with whipped cream pressed through a pastry-bag
and star tube.
.if h
.il fn=fig-124.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 124. PINE CONES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 124. PINE CONES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 218.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
PINE CONES
Cut quarter-inch slices of bread into rounds and moisten
them with sherry or maraschino. Pile chopped pineapple
in cone shape on each round of bread. Canned, fresh, or
stewed pineapple may be used. Dilute the juice strained
from the fruit with a little water, and sweeten it to taste.
Add a teaspoonful of arrowroot moistened with cold water
to a cupful of pineapple liquor. Boil it until thickened,
then with a spoon pour it slowly over the cones. Serve
hot or cold.
.if h
.il fn=fig-125.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 125. INDIVIDUAL CORNSTARCH PUDDINGS WITH CURRANT JELLY.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 125. INDIVIDUAL CORNSTARCH PUDDINGS WITH CURRANT JELLY.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-126.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 126. CORNSTARCH PUDDING IN RING MOLD, ORNAMENTED WITH RAISINS.
GARNISHED WITH WHIPPED CREAM.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 126. CORNSTARCH PUDDING IN RING MOLD, ORNAMENTED WITH RAISINS.
GARNISHED WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-127.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 127. CORNSTARCH PUDDING ORNAMENTED WITH CANDIED
CHERRIES AND ANGELICA.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 127. CORNSTARCH PUDDING ORNAMENTED WITH CANDIED
CHERRIES AND ANGELICA.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-128.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 128. CHOCOLATE CORNSTARCH PUDDING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 128. CHOCOLATE CORNSTARCH PUDDING.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
CORNSTARCH PUDDINGS
Dissolve two heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch in a
little cold water or milk and turn it slowly, stirring all the
time, into a pint of scalding milk in a double boiler; add
three tablespoonfuls of sugar and a dash of salt. Stir until
it is thickened, then let it cook for half an hour, or until it
has lost the raw taste of the starch, then add the whipped
whites of two eggs and a half teaspoonful of vanilla, and
cook it a few minutes longer to set the eggs.
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. The cornstarch is molded in cups; when unmolded
a piece is taken out of the top of each one, and the
holes are filled with currant jelly, and jelly is placed
on the dish around the individual puddings. This
gives a good sauce as well as a nice effect of color.
Any jelly, jam, or preserved fruits may be used in
place of the currant jelly.
.ti -6
No. 2. Lay a line of seeded raisins on the bottom of a ring-mold
before turning in the cornstarch; or mix with
the cornstarch some chopped citron, currants, and
raisins. Fill the center of the ring with whipped
cream, or with plain boiled custard.
// 219.png
// 220.png
// 221.png
.pn +1
.ti -6
No. 3. Mold the cornstarch in a bowl. Decorate it with
candied cherries and angelica. Serve with it cream,
sweetened milk, custard, or preserved fruit.
.ti -6
No. 4. Add to the cornstarch two squares of melted chocolate
and a tablespoonful of sugar. Decorate the
mold with split blanched almonds. Dip the almonds
in a little half-set gelatine to make them adhere to
the mold. Put the mold into hot water for a second
to soften the gelatine before unmolding the pudding.
Serve with whipped cream or sweetened milk.
.in 0
.sp 2
.h4
PEACH PUDDING
Cover the bottom of a pudding-dish with canned peaches.
Take half the juice from the can, add to it two tablespoonfuls
of sugar, and boil it to a thick syrup.
Make a custard, using two cupfuls of milk, the yolks of two
eggs, and a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch. Cook in
a double boiler for half an hour, or until it is quite thick
and the raw taste of the cornstarch is gone, then add a little
of the peach syrup to sweeten it, and a few drops of almond
extract. Sprinkle the peaches with blanched almonds cut
in pieces, pour over them the syrup, then the custard. Cover
the top with meringue made of the whites of two eggs and
three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Brown the meringue.
Serve the pudding hot or cold.
.sp 2
.h4
TAPIOCA PUDDING
.in 6
.nf l
1 quart of milk,
½ cupful of tapioca,
4-5 eggs,
½ pint of cream,
4-5 tablespoonfuls of sugar,
½ cupful of sherry.
.nf-
.in 0
// 222.png
.pn +1
Soak the tapioca in cold water for several hours or overnight.
Boil the soaked tapioca in the milk until it is soft,
then add the beaten yolks of the eggs, the sugar, cream, and
wine, and lastly the whipped whites of the eggs.
Turn the mixture into a pudding-dish. Set the dish in a
pan of water and bake twenty to twenty-five minutes. Serve
cold.
.if h
.il fn=fig-129.jpg w=600px id=fig-129
.ca
NO. 129. RICE PRUNE PUDDING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 129. RICE PRUNE PUDDING.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-130.jpg w=600px id=fig-130
.ca
NO. 130. RICE PRUNE PUDDING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 130. RICE PRUNE PUDDING.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
RICE PRUNE PUDDING
Spread stewed prunes over the bottom of a basin or mold,
then fill the mold with boiled rice. Press the rice in just
hard enough to make it hold its shape. Turn it out of the
mold and serve it hot or cold, with the sweetened juice of the
prunes as sauce; or press the rice into a bowl or mold, and
arrange the prunes around the form after it is unmolded,
as in illustration #No. 129:fig-129#; or arrange it as in illustration
#No. 130:fig-130#.
.sp 2
.h4
JELLIED APPLE PUDDING
Add to one and a half cupfuls of strained stewed apples
the juice of an orange, the grated rind and juice of half a
lemon, three tablespoonfuls of sherry, three quarters of a
cupful of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine
which has been soaked for an hour in half a cupful of
cold water and then dissolved in half a cupful of hot water.
Stir the mixture until it begins to thicken, then fold in the
whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth, or a half-pint
of whipped cream. Turn it into a mold.
Serve it with whipped cream.
.sp 2
.h4
PINEAPPLE PUDDING
Grate a pineapple fine. Mix well together a cupful of
sugar and four eggs, then mix them with the pineapple
pulp. Turn the mixture into a mold, set the mold into a pan
of water and bake it slowly until stiffened like a baked custard.
// 223.png
// 224.png
// 225.png
.pn +1
When cold unmold it and decorate it with whipped
cream.
.if h
.il fn=fig-131.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 131. SAVARINS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 131. SAVARINS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
SAVARINS
Take some brioche dough (page #209#) and add enough milk
to make it almost soft enough to drop from the spoon. Add
sugar, raisins, chopped citron, and a little lemon juice.
Work all well together.
Butter some earthen cups, sprinkle them with sliced
blanched almonds, half fill the cups with the savarin dough,
and let it rise to double in size. Bake in a hot oven.
Turn them out of the molds, and while they are warm
dip them in a syrup made of one cupful of sugar syrup,
three tablespoonfuls each of kirsch, maraschino, and curaçao,
or flavor with any other liqueurs preferred. When the savarins
are well soaked place them on a sieve to drain.
.if h
.il fn=fig-132.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 132. BABAS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 132. BABAS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
BABAS
Take brioche dough prepared as for savarins, and mix
with it candied fruits cut into small dice. Butter baba-molds,
fill them half full of the mixture, let them rise to
double in size, and bake in a hot oven.
Soak the babas in sugar syrup flavored with rum and
drain. Place a candied cherry on each one.
Baba-molds are like large individual timbale cups.
.sp 2
.h4
COFFEE MOUSSE
.in +4
.nf l
½ ounce gelatine,
¼ cupful of cold water,
½ cupful of hot water,
1 cupful of coffee,
½ cupful of sugar,
1 cupful of cream, whipped.
.nf-
.in 0
// 226.png
.pn +1
Soak the gelatine in the cold water for an hour, then dissolve
it in the hot water and add the sugar. When the sugar
is dissolved add a cupful of cold, strong, clear coffee. Put
the mixture on ice and whip it until it becomes light and
frothy and has begun to stiffen, then add the whipped cream
and turn it into a mold. The gelatine must be thoroughly
whipped, as for snow pudding, and the liquid drained from
the whipped cream must not go in. This will make about
one and one half quarts of mousse.
.if h
.il fn=fig-133.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 133. PEACH MOUSSE GARNISHED WITH WHIPPED CREAM.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 133. PEACH MOUSSE GARNISHED WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
PEACH MOUSSE
Use fresh or canned peaches. Mash and rub them through
a colander. Add to a cupful of peach pulp half a teaspoonful
of lemon juice, a few drops of almond extract, and
enough sugar to sweeten it. Dissolve in quarter of a cupful
of hot peach juice one and three quarter tablespoonfuls of
granulated gelatine which has been soaked for an hour in
half a cupful of cold water. Add the gelatine to the peach
mixture. When it begins to set, mix it until smooth, then
fold in a half pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth, and
turn it into a mold. Serve with whipped cream. The cream
can be used to decorate the dish by pressing it through a
pastry-bag.
.if h
.il fn=fig-137.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 137. CHESTNUT PURÉE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 137.CHESTNUT PURÉE.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 230.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
CHESTNUT PURÉE
Boil for five minutes a pound of French chestnuts, drain
off the water and remove the shells and skins. Return the
chestnuts to the fire and boil them until tender. Put the
boiled chestnuts in a mortar, and pound them to a paste,
then add a teaspoonful of vanilla and a teaspoonful of lemon
juice. Make a thick sugar syrup, and beat it into the paste,
using enough to sweeten to taste. Grease a ring-mold with
oil, and put into it a lining half an inch thick of the
// 227.png
// 228.png
// 229.png
.pn +1
chestnut paste pressed through a pastry-bag with a tube
of small opening so it will come out vermicelli-like in form.
Fill the rest of the mold with plain paste. Turn it on to
a layer of sponge-cake. Just before serving fill the center
of the ring with whipped cream flavored with almond.
.if h
.il fn=fig-135.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 135. CHESTNUT BAVARIAN.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 135. CHESTNUT BAVARIAN.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
CHESTNUT BAVARIAN
Prepare chestnuts as directed for chestnut purée. To two
cupfuls of the purée add one ounce of gelatine which has
been soaked for an hour in half a cupful of cold water and
then dissolved in half a cupful of hot water. Mix well, and
when it begins to stiffen add a pint of cream whipped to a
stiff froth, and turn the mixture into a ring-mold to harden.
Fill the center with whipped cream, or with chestnuts boiled
in sugar and water until they look clear.
.sp 2
.h4
CHARLOTTE RUSSE
.in +4
.nf l
1 pint of milk,
1 pint of cream,
Yolks of four eggs,
½ cupful of sugar,
¼ boxful of gelatine,
1 teaspoonful of vanilla.
.nf-
.in -4
Mix the sugar with the yolks of the eggs. Scald the milk
and pour it over them. Place it on the fire and stir until the
eggs are cooked, but not thickened like a custard, then add
the gelatine, which has been soaked for an hour in half a
cupful of cold water. When the gelatine is dissolved remove
it from the fire, add the vanilla, and let it get cold. When
the mixture begins to thicken add the cream whipped to a
stiff froth, and turn it into a mold lined with lady-fingers
or with slices of sponge-cake.
.if h
.il fn=fig-136.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 136. STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE GARNISHED WITH STRAWBERRIES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 136. STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE GARNISHED WITH STRAWBERRIES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE, No. 1
.in +4
.nf l
⅓ box of gelatine,
¼ cupful of cold water,
1½ cupfuls of powdered sugar,
1½ teaspoonfuls of lemon juice,
1 quart of berries, crushed and pressed
through a purée sieve,
½ pint of cream, whipped.
.nf-
.in -4
Soak the gelatine in the water for an hour, then set it in
a pan of hot water to dissolve. Add to the crushed berries
the powdered sugar, lemon juice, and gelatine. Put it aside
for a while. When it begins to stiffen, beat it until it is light
and spongy, then mix in the whipped cream, being careful
not to pour in any of the liquid cream that may have drained
to the bottom of the dish. Turn the mixture into a charlotte-mold
lined with lady-fingers. When it is unmolded garnish
it with whole strawberries.
.if h
.il fn=fig-134.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 134. STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE, No. 2.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 134. STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE, No. 2]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE, No. 2
Line a china or earthen bowl or mold with strawberries
cut in halves, and with the flat side of the berries placed close
together against the mold. Arrange one or two rows at a
time, and then turn in the mixture to keep them in place.
Fill the mold with the same mixture used in No. 1; or fill the
mold with plain charlotte-russe filling, or with Bavarian
cream.
.sp 2
.h4
HOW TO MAKE MERINGUES
Put a dash of salt into the whites of five or six eggs and
whip them until very stiff and dry, then add slowly a quarter
of a cupful of sifted powdered sugar for each egg. The
sugar should be placed, a little at a time, at the end of the
platter, and gradually whipped in. Continue to whip until
// 231.png
// 232.png
// 233.png
.pn +1
the mixture is firm enough to stand without spreading, and
any little point left by the beater remains erect. Success
depends on the eggs being sufficiently beaten.
The mixture can be made into various shapes with a spoon,
but is better molded by being pressed through a pastry-bag.
The tops can be smoothed and any irregularities effaced with
a clean wet knife. The shapes should be arranged on paper
placed on inverted baking-tins, and set in a moderate oven
to form a thin crust, and to color lightly the tops, and then
placed on the hot shelf of the range to dry. If the meringues
stick to the paper, they can be easily removed by wetting
the paper slightly.
.if h
.il fn=fig-138.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 138. MERINGUE RING WITH WHIPPED CREAM.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 138. MERINGUE RING WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-139.jpg w=600px id=fig-139
.ca
NO. 139. MERINGUE CROWN.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 139. MERINGUE CROWN.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
MERINGUE RING
Place meringue mixture (see above) in a pastry-bag with
star-tube. Draw on heavy paper two rings four to six inches
in diameter, according to size desired. Any round utensil
of right size can be used for guide. Press the meringue
through the tube, following the circles marked on the paper.
One of the rings—the top one—should be made more ornamental
than the other. This is easily done by moving the
tube while the mixture is passing through it. With a wet
knife make a narrow, smooth, flat surface on the top of the
under ring. Lay the papers holding the rings on inverted
baking-tins, and put them in a moderate oven for a few minutes
to color them and form a crust. Watch carefully that
they do not get too brown. When lightly colored, remove
them to the hot shelf to dry. When they are sufficiently firm
take them carefully off the paper, turn them over, break
in the bottoms, then return them to the shelf to continue the
drying. Place one ring on top of the other, and just before
serving fill the center with whipped cream.
Meringues may be kept for some time, but in that case
should be freshened by heating before being used.
// 234.png
.pn +1
If preferred, the upper piece can be made into a cover as in
illustration #No. 139:fig-139#.
.if h
.il fn=fig-140.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 140. MERINGUE CREAM TART, NO. 1.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 140. MERINGUE CREAM TART, NO. 1.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
MERINGUE CREAM TART, No. 1
Make meringues (see page #150#) of oblong shape, three
inches long and two inches wide. After the tops are firm,
break in the bottoms in order to dry the insides.
Trim the edges of a round layer of sponge-cake, spread
it with jam of any kind, arrange the meringues around it,
and at the moment of serving fill the center of the tart with
whipped cream. Flavor the cream, if desired. It will take
a dozen meringues to make the crown.
Arrange the crown as follows: Put half a cupful of sugar
and a quarter cupful of hot water into a saucepan and stir
until the sugar dissolves, then let it cook, without stirring,
until a little dropped into cold water is brittle; it is then
boiled to the crack. Draw the saucepan to the side of the
range, so the sugar will be kept hot without cooking any more.
Dip the end of a meringue into the sugar and place it on
the cake; hold it in place while you dip a second meringue
and place it under the first one. Proceed in this way until
all are placed, then put a drop of the boiled sugar on the top
of each one where it touches the next one. The whole will
then be held firmly in place.
.if h
.il fn=fig-141.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 141. MERINGUE CREAM TART, NO. 2.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 141. MERINGUE CREAM TART, NO. 2.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
MERINGUE CREAM TART, No. 2
Make meringue mixture into small kisses, leaving the point
left by the tube erect.
Spread a layer of cake with jam as in No. 1. Stick a
candied cherry on the point of each kiss and arrange them as
shown in illustration. Fill the center with whipped cream.
// 235.png
// 236.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-142.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 142. MERINGUES FILLED WITH WHIPPED CREAM OR WITH ICE CREAM.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 142. MERINGUES FILLED WITH WHIPPED CREAM OR WITH ICE CREAM.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 237.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
MERINGUES FILLED WITH WHIPPED CREAM OR WITH ICE CREAM
Make oblong-shaped meringues, as for cream tart No. 1.
Just before serving, fill them with whipped cream, or with
ice cream, and press two together. If necessary, use a little
white of egg on the edges to make them adhere.
.sp 2
.h4
CHOCOLATE CREAM
Scald two cupfuls of milk. Melt on a dry pan two squares
of unsweetened chocolate, add the hot milk slowly to the
chocolate, stirring all the time. Let it come to the boiling-point.
Beat two whole eggs and two yolks with four tablespoonfuls
of sugar, stir the milk and chocolate into the eggs,
add half a teaspoonful of vanilla and a dash of salt. Turn
the mixture into a mold, set it into a pan of hot water, and
cook in a slow oven until it is firm. In order to have it
smooth and solid it must bake slowly. Test it by running
in the point of a knife; if it is not cooked, it will coat the
knife with milk.
Unmold when cold and serve with whipped cream.
.sp 2
.h4
CHOCOLATE SPONGE
Make the same mixture as for chocolate cream. Instead of cooking it
slowly, put it into a hot oven and cook it until the whey appears. By
cooking in a hot oven it will be full of holes and have a sponge-like
appearance. When cold, unmold it and let the whey escape. Serve with
whipped cream.
.if h
.il fn=fig-143.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 143. BAVARIAN CREAM GARNISHED WITH CREAM CAKES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 143. BAVARIAN CREAM GARNISHED WITH CREAM CAKES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
BAVARIAN CREAM GARNISHED WITH CREAM-CAKES
Make a Bavarian cream (see “Century Cook Book,” page
400), and turn it into a flat tin to harden. Have it about
half an inch thick. When it is set, cut it into pieces two and
// 238.png
.pn +1
a half to three inches square, and arrange them, overlapping,
in the center of a dish. Place around them small cream-cakes
of one inch in diameter.
Cornstarch pudding, jelly, or any mixture firm enough
to be sliced can be served in this way. Left-over jelly can
be melted and molded again in a layer, or it may be combined
with custard, cream, crumbed cake, or anything suitable
that may be at hand, and turned into a layer-tin to
stiffen; then cut and serve as above. Any small cakes or
sliced cake cut into rounds may be substituted for the cream-cakes.
Chocolate Bavarian garnished with small cakes covered
with white icing makes a good combination.
.sp 2
.h3
PIES AND TARTS
.sp 2
.h4
PUFF-PASTE
Puff-paste is made of equal weights of butter and flour.
The flour is made into a paste, the butter is worked until
it is flexible, and they are then rolled together and folded
several times so that many distinct layers of butter and
paste are obtained. During the rolling air is imprisoned,
and in baking the air-cells expand, separate the layers, and
so inflate the pastry.
In order to effect this result, it is necessary to keep the
pastry dry and cold, and the butter cold, so that they will
not mix in rolling, but be pressed into thin sheets. Careful
handling is necessary. Many failures are the result of pressing
the paste in spots with the fingers, which prevents its
rising evenly, if at all. A marble slab is desirable for rolling
the paste on, as it helps to keep it cold.
// 239.png
.pn +1
Either of the following mixtures may be used:
.in +6
.nf l
No. 1. 1 pound of butter,
1 pound of flour (pastry flour preferred),
About 1 pound of cold water.
.nf-
.in 0
.in +6
.nf l
No. 2. 1 pound of butter,
1 cupful of flour,
1 cupful of water,
White of one egg.
.nf-
.in 0
Cut one sixth of the butter into the flour for the paste.
No salt is needed if salted butter is used.
Put the flour on the slab, chop into it, using a knife, one
sixth of the butter, then moisten it with the water into which
has been stirred the beaten white of one egg. The exact
amount of water cannot be given, as that depends upon the
dryness of the flour, but care must be taken to have the
paste of the right consistency. It should be neither too hard
to roll easily, nor so soft that it will stick, but have a flexible,
dry consistency. Work it for a few minutes with the
hands to a perfect smoothness. Roll it to a rectangular
shape (a little longer than broad), and about a half inch
in thickness. The paste can be handled with impunity at
this stage, and care should be taken to roll it to an even thickness
and to have the edges straight and the corners square.
When just right, fold it over, wrap it in a napkin, put it in a
pan, and place the pan upon ice.
Work the butter with a spoon or a pat until it is smooth
and flexible, and press out as much of the water it contains
as possible, as this wets the paste and may make it sticky.
Mold the butter into a smooth, flattened square cake and set
it on ice.
When the paste and the butter are perfectly cold lay the
paste on the slab, place the cake of butter in the center, and
fold the paste over it, first on the sides, and then the ends.
// 240.png
.pn +1
The paste should be long enough to fold the end pieces entirely
across the cake of butter. Roll it out into a strip three
times longer than broad. Rolling is made easier by lightly
pounding as well as rolling the paste. Keep the edges even,
and finish by having the corners square and the whole of
uniform thickness. Fold the strip twice, making three even
layers, and place it on the ice again, wrapped in a napkin,
to prevent it from gathering moisture. When it is entirely
cold, roll it out again and fold it in the same way. Strike
the edges to keep the folds from separating, and turn the
paste so as to roll it in the opposite direction from the previous
time. Endeavor to keep the edges straight and corners
square, so the layers will be even. After each folding
and rolling, it is said to have one “turn,” and the pastry
is not finished until it has had six to eight turns. The rolling
becomes more difficult as the layers get thinner, and great
care must be used not to let the butter break through. This
will happen if it is not kept very cold; so, unless the rolling
is done in a very cold room, it is safer to put it on the ice
after each turn. If the butter shows signs of coming
through, cover the spot with flour, and set it away at once.
The paste should also be very cold when cut into shapes, so
that the edges will not stick together; and again, it should be
very cold before being put into the oven.
The oven should be hot. A simple test of the heat is
to place a piece of writing-paper in the oven for ten minutes.
If at the end of that time the paper is a light yellow, the heat
is right for vol-au-vent and large pieces. If it is a light-brown
color, it is about the heat used for baking bread, and is
right for patty-shells.
After a little practice the making of puff-paste becomes
an easy matter. The rolling need not be done all in one day,
for if the paste is kept dry and cold, and not allowed to form
a crust, it will keep for several days. So many high-class
// 241.png
.pn +1
dishes can be made of puff-paste, it is desirable to accomplish
the art of making it.
.sp 2
.h4
JAM TART
Tart cases may be prepared the same as vol-au-vent cases,
page 71, except that the paste should be rolled not more than
half an inch thick when ready to be cut; or, instead of cutting
the border in the paste, as for vol-au-vents, a strip of paste
one inch wide may be laid around the edge. The strips
should be cut diagonally on the ends, and these edges moistened
so they will stick together where joined. Lay the
strip carefully around the slightly moistened border of the
bottom piece, paint the top with egg, and bake in a hot oven
for thirty minutes. Remove carefully the top of the center,
and take out any uncooked paste, return it to the oven to
dry the inside.
Before using, heat the tart again to make it crisp, and
when cool spread the inside with a layer of any kind of jam
or preserved fruit, put on the center piece, which was taken
off to get out the uncooked paste, and cover the entire center
with jam. Serve it on a lace paper.
.sp 2
.h4
TARTLET SHELLS
Use puff-paste trimmings. Roll the paste thin, shape it
to the pans, being careful to press the paste as little as possible.
Trim the edges with a sharp knife. Put a piece of
paper in the bottom of each one, and fill the tartlet cases with
dried peas, beans, or rice, and bake in a hot oven ten to
fifteen minutes. When well browned, remove the filling,
being particularly careful, if rice is used, that every grain
is picked off the crusts. Return the shells to the oven for a
minute to dry the insides.
// 242.png
.pn +1
These shells can be kept for some time, but should be
freshened before using by being heated again. Fill them,
just before serving, with any kind of jam or preserve, or with
any freshly stewed fruits, or with creamed minced meat.
.if h
.il fn=fig-144.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 144. TART OF PUFF-PASTE WITH STRAWBERRY JAM.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 144. TART OF PUFF-PASTE WITH STRAWBERRY JAM.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
STRAWBERRY TARTLETS
Use tartlet shells made of any good pastry, puff-paste trimmings
preferred. Just before serving, freshen the shells
by heating them, if they have been kept some time, and fill
with stewed fresh strawberries. Serve the juice separately
in a sauce-dish.
To prepare the strawberries, put them in a saucepan and
cover them with enough sugar to sweeten them. Let them
stand in a warm place until the juice moistens the sugar.
Cook them slowly until the berries are softened, but not so
long that they lose their shape.
.if h
.il fn=fig-146.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 146. FRANGIPANE TARTLETS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 146. FRANGIPANE TARTLETS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
FRANGIPANE TARTLETS
Line patty-pans with puff-paste rolled one quarter of an
inch thick. Cut the paste an inch larger than the pans, and
fit it as carefully as possible, pressing it lightly with the
broad finger into the flutings. Prick the bottom crust and
lay on it a slice of bread cut to the size of the bottom of the
pan. This is to prevent the bottom crust from rising and to
leave the sides to puff, as the light pastry is an important
part of these tartlets. Bake in a hot oven about fifteen minutes.
When done remove any uncooked paste and fill with
frangipane cream. Cover the whole top with meringue,
piling it high in the center, and smooth it with a wet knife.
Make a border one half an inch wide of chopped almonds
which have been blanched and browned. Place in the center
a half cherry and two pieces of angelica to imitate a flower.
// 243.png
// 244.png
// 245.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
FRANGIPANE CREAM
.in 6
.nf l
¼ cupful of cream,
1 tablespoonful of flour,
4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar,
1 tablespoonful of sherry,
1 tablespoonful of brandy,
1 teaspoonful of orange-flower water,
1 grated lemon rind,
1 tablespoonful of chopped citron,
4 egg yolks.
.nf-
.in 0
Put the cream and flour in a small saucepan and stir until
smooth, place on the fire a few minutes to cook the flour, stirring
all the time. Remove from the fire, and when it is a
little cooled add all the other ingredients. Set the saucepan
in a second saucepan containing hot water and cook, stirring
all the time, until the mixture has become a thick cream.
.if h
.il fn=fig-145.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 145. STRAWBERRY TARTLETS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 145. STRAWBERRY TARTLETS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
FRUIT TARTLETS
Prepare tartlet shells as for frangipane tartlets. Half fill
the shells with frangipane cream, cover each one with half
a California canned peach or apricot, and decorate around
the outside of the fruit with meringue pressed through a
pastry-bag.
.if h
.il fn=fig-147.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 147. JALOUSIES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 147. JALOUSIES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
JALOUSIES
Roll puff-paste trimmings into a sheet one eighth of an
inch thick. Cut it into strips three inches wide. Lay half
of the strips on a baking-sheet and spread them with a layer
of well-seasoned and quite dry apple sauce. Cover them with
the remaining strips, which have been slashed into triangular
openings by being folded over and cut on the folded side
an inch deep in diagonal lines. Egg the tops and bake in a
// 246.png
.pn +1
hot oven. When done, sprinkle with sugar and return them
to the oven for a minute to glaze. Cut the strips after they
are baked into pieces three inches long.
.sp 2
.h4
CRANBERRY PIE
Add to half a cupful of hot water a cupful of sugar and
a tablespoonful of cornstarch diluted with a little water.
Stir until the water boils, then add half a cupful of molasses,
half a tablespoonful of butter, a saltspoonful of
salt, and a pint of chopped cranberries. Cook for a few
minutes, then turn it into the pastry and bake with or without
an upper crust.
.if h
.il fn=fig-148.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 148. COCOANUT PIE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 148. COCOANUT PIE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
COCOANUT PIE
Grate a cocoanut. Mix it with an equal weight of sugar
and the beaten yolks of four eggs. Mix together and scald
a cupful of milk and the milk of the cocoanut. Add a tablespoonful
of cornstarch diluted with a little water, and stir
it until it is a little thickened. Remove it from the fire, add
the cocoanut mixture, and lastly the whipped whites of four
eggs. Turn it into a deep pie-paste and bake very slowly
for half an hour, or until firm to the touch. Serve cold.
The cocoanut filling should be one and a half or one and
three quarter inches thick. A kitchen basin may be used
for the baking-dish, or the crust can be built up around a
pie-dish to make it deeper.
.if h
.il fn=fig-149.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 149. HUCKLEBERRY PIE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 149. HUCKLEBERRY PIE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
CURRANT PIE
Add to a cupful of mashed currants a cupful of sugar, half
a teaspoonful of butter, the yolk of an egg, and if there is
much juice a tablespoonful of flour. Bake with an under-crust
only, and cover the top with meringue.
// 247.png
// 248.png
// 249.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h4
LEMON PIE, No. 1
.in 6
.nf l
3 eggs,
2 cupfuls of milk,
2 tablespoonfuls of flour, scant,
1 tablespoonful of butter,
5 tablespoonfuls of sugar, or to taste,
Juice and grated rind of one and a half lemons.
.nf-
.in 0
Beat together the yolks of three eggs and the white of one
egg, then add, in the following order, the sugar, the flour, the
butter, and the milk. Lastly, add very slowly the juice and
grated rind of lemon. Turn the mixture into a pie-dish
lined with a bottom crust and bake it slowly until it is set
like a custard. Do not let it cook too long, or, like custard,
it will become watery.
Make a meringue of the whites of two eggs. Beat them to
a stiff froth, then add slowly two tablespoonfuls of sugar.
Spread the meringue roughly over the pie when it is taken
from the oven, and return it to the oven for a minute to
color the meringue. The top may be made more ornamental
by pressing the meringue through a pastry-bag on to the pie.
.sp 2
.h4
LEMON PIE, No. 2
Put into a saucepan on the fire one cupful of sugar and one
cupful of water. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then add
two cupfuls of grated crumb of bread and the juice and
grated rind of two lemons. Stir until the mixture is smooth,
then add the beaten yolks of two eggs and remove it from
the fire. Turn the mixture into a baked under-crust, and
bake the pie for ten to fifteen minutes.
Cover the top with meringue made of the whites of three
eggs and three tablespoonfuls of sugar.
.if h
.il fn=fig-150.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 150. STRAWBERRY CAKE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 150. STRAWBERRY CAKE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-151.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 151. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH WHIPPED CREAM.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 151. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-152.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 152. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH MERINGUE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 152. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH MERINGUE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-153.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 153. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH MERINGUE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 153. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH MERINGUE.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 250.png
.pn +1
.h4
STRAWBERRY CAKES
Make two layers of sponge-cake, trim the edges, cover them
with well-selected strawberries set close together, sprinkle
with sugar, and place one layer on the other. Pass cream
in a pitcher.
Prepare the cake as in No. 1, but cover the top with whipped
cream pressed through a pastry-bag.
Use a single layer of cake, cover it with meringue, then
with strawberries placed close together, and decorate with
meringue pressed through a pastry-bag with star-tube, making
a border, or a border and stars between the berries.
For the meringue use the whites of three eggs and four
tablespoonfuls of sugar. Flavor it with a few drops of vanilla.
Prepare the cake just before serving it.
.if h
.il fn=fig-154.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 154. CURRANT-SHORTCAKE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 154. CURRANT-SHORTCAKE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-155.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 155. CURRANT-SHORTCAKE CUT.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 155. CURRANT-SHORTCAKE CUT.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h4
CURRANT SHORTCAKE
This shortcake will be liked as well as, if not better than,
one made of strawberries. The latter has an established
reputation, which is based largely upon its attractive appearance,
but, as a rule, it is disappointing to the taste. Shortcake
can be made quite as inviting with currants as with
strawberries, and the tartness of the fruit gives it a flavor
which is especially grateful in hot weather, when currants
are in season.
Receipt for one currant shortcake which is enough to serve
to six persons:
Make a biscuit dough as follows: Sift together twice two
cupfuls of flour, one and a half teaspoonfuls of baking-powder,
and a half teaspoonful of salt (they must be thoroughly
mixed). When this is done, rub in one rounded teaspoonful
of butter or lard or cottolene, then add enough milk to make
a soft dough. Use a fork to stir in the milk. Mix it lightly
and quickly together, making the paste a little too soft to
// 251.png
// 252.png
// 253.png
.pn +1
roll. Turn it into a well-greased pie-tin, smooth the top with
a wet knife, and put it at once into a hot oven to bake for
thirty minutes. When it is taken from the oven trim the
edges and split the biscuit in two, using two forks so as to
tear, not cut, it apart. Spread each half with butter while
it is still hot.
Stem a box of currants. Reserve a few of the finest ones
to decorate the top of the shortcake. Put the rest of the
currants into a bowl and mash them, add enough sugar to
sweeten to taste, and let them stand an hour or more before
using them.
Spread the mashed currants over one half of the buttered
biscuit, lay the other half on it. Cover the top with meringue
made of the whipped whites of two eggs sweetened
with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Decorate with
whole currants as shown in illustration.
It can be more elaborately decorated by pressing the
meringue through a pastry-bag and tube into ornamental
shapes, and placing currants on it as the fancy dictates.
Serve very fresh.
// 254.png
// 255.png
.pn +1
.pn +1 // blank pages sometimes included in pagination
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch11
Chapter XI||TENTH COURSE
.sp 2
.nf c
ICES
.nf-
// 256.png
.pn +1
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 4
.nf c
ICES
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Ice Cream, Plain
Ice Cream with Hot Chocolate Sauce
Ice Cream with Hot Maple Sauce
Ice Cream, Strawberry
Ice Cream, Melon
Ice Cream, Peach
Water-ice, Lemon
Water-ice, Orange
Water-ice, Strawberry
Water-ice, Apricot
Water-ice, Pineapple
Water-ice, Macedoine
Café Frappé
Cake
.nf-
.in 0
.sp 2
// 257.png
.pb
.pn +1
.sp 4
.h3
PLAIN ICE CREAM
To serve with or without hot sauces.
.in 6
.nf l
2 cupfuls of milk,
1 cupful of cream,
½ cupful of sugar,
2 whole eggs,
1 teaspoonful of vanilla.
.nf-
.in 0
Mix the eggs with the sugar, then scald the milk and turn
it over them. Place the whole on the fire in a double boiler
and cook for a few minutes to set the eggs, but not so long
that the mixture thickens like a custard. Remove from the
fire and add the cream and vanilla. When it is cold, freeze
and mold it.
.sp 2
.h3
HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE FOR ICE CREAM
Put four squares of unsweetened chocolate into a saucepan.
Set the saucepan into a second one containing hot
water, let the chocolate melt on the dry pan, then remove
it and stir in first a cupful of sugar and then half a cupful
of hot water. Return it to the fire and stir until the sugar
is dissolved and the mixture is smooth, then cook without
stirring until a little dropped into cold water can be taken
up and rolled into a ball between the fingers. Do not let
it cook any farther, but keep the pan in hot water until
ready to serve, then turn it into a hot sauce-dish. It will
harden and form a crust when turned over the cream.
// 258.png
.pn +1
It is essential to prepare it exactly as directed. If the
chocolate is not first melted on a dry pan it will be grainy,
and if the water is added first it will harden.
.sp 2
.h3
HOT MAPLE SAUCE FOR ICE CREAM
Mix half a cupful of cream with two cupfuls of maple
syrup and let it cook without stirring until it threads, or a
little dropped into water can be taken up and rolled into
a soft ball between the fingers. Do not let it cook any
farther, but set the pan in hot water and keep it warm until
the moment of serving.
.sp 2
.h3
STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM
.in 6
.nf l
1 pint of milk,
1 pint of cream,
1 pound of sugar,
1 quart of strawberries, or of strawberries and raspberries mixed.
.nf-
.in 0
Mix the crushed berries with half of the sugar and let them
stand for several hours, then squeeze out the juice.
Scald the milk with the other half of the sugar, let it cool,
half freeze it, then add the cream and the fruit juice and finish
the freezing.
.sp 2
.h3
MELON ICE CREAM
.in 6
.nf l
1 pint of milk,
1 pint of cream,
1½ pints of melon juice,
2½ cupfuls of sugar.
.nf-
.in 0
Scrape out the soft center of a muskmelon, press it through
a colander, add half the sugar to it, and let it stand several
hours, then strain out the juice.
Scald the milk with the other half of the sugar, let it cool,
mix in the cream and half freeze it, then add the melon
// 259.png
.pn +1
juice and finish the freezing. Serve it in the melon rind or
mold it. To mold, line a melon-mold with a layer one
inch thick of the frozen cream, colored green, and fill the
center with the plain cream.
.sp 2
.h3
PEACH ICE CREAM
.in 6
.nf l
1 pint of milk,
1 pint of cream,
1½ pints of peach pulp,
2½ cupfuls of sugar.
.nf-
.in 0
Add half of the sugar to the peach pulp and let it stand
for two or three hours, then press it again through a sieve
or colander.
Scald the milk with half of the sugar, let it cool, half
freeze it, and then add the cream and peach pulp and finish
freezing.
.sp 2
.h3
WATER-ICES
Express the juice from any fruit, dilute it with a little
water, or leave it pure, make it very sweet with sugar, or,
preferably, sugar syrup, and add a very little lemon juice.
Freeze the mixture.
Syrup from preserve-jars, diluted to the right degree,
makes good water-ice.
Water-ices are difficult to mold, so it is better to serve them
in glasses or in individual dishes.
.sp 2
.h3
LEMON ICE
.in 6
.nf l
1 quart of water
Juice of four large lemons,
Juice of one orange,
2½ cupfuls of sugar.
.nf-
.in 0
Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes, then add the
fruit juice, strain it, and when it is cold freeze it.
// 260.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
ORANGE ICE
.in 6
.nf l
1½ cupfuls of orange juice,
Juice of 1 lemon,
2½ cupfuls of sugar,
1 quart of water.
.nf-
.in 0
Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes, add the fruit
juice, strain it, and when it is cold freeze it.
.sp 2
.h3
STRAWBERRY ICE
.in 6
.nf l
1½ cupfuls of strawberry juice,
2 cupfuls of sugar,
1 quart of water.
.nf-
.in 0
Crush the berries and let them stand in part of the sugar
for two to three hours, then strain out the juice. Boil the
water with the rest of the sugar for ten minutes, add the
fruit juice, and when it is cold freeze it by turning the crank
for five minutes, then stopping for five minutes, and so on
until it is frozen. Serve in individual glasses.
.sp 2
.h3
APRICOT ICE
Chop, mash, and press through a sieve a canful of California
canned apricots. To the pulp add the juice from the
can, two cupfuls of water, and enough sugar to make it
quite sweet. Freeze and serve in glasses.
.if h
.il fn=fig-156.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 156. PINEAPPLE ICE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 156. PINEAPPLE ICE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
PINEAPPLE ICE
Cut off the top of a pineapple and take out the center,
being careful to leave the rind uninjured. Grate the pineapple,
and to the pulp and juice add a cupful of water,
the juice of a lemon, and enough sugar to make it very sweet,
as it loses sweetness in freezing. Freeze it and serve it in the
shell of the pine.
// 261.png
// 262.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-157.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 157. MACEDOINE ICE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 157. MACEDOINE ICE.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 263.png
.pn +1
.h3
MACEDOINE ICES
Half fill glasses with mixed fruits cut in pieces, using any
combination of summer or winter fruits that may be convenient,
such as oranges, bananas, grapes, canned peaches,
canned cherries, and candied cherries; or fresh peaches and
pears, grapes, and preserved strawberries; or fresh strawberries
and cherries and sweet apples. Cover the fruit
with a water-ice made of any fruit juice.
Serve as an ice for dessert, or serve in small glasses as a
sherbet before the game course. In the latter case a mixture
of oranges, grape-fruit, and grapes with lemon or orange
ice would be suitable, and a teaspoonful of rum or sherry
should be poured over the ice just before serving.
.sp 2
.h3
CAFÉ FRAPPÉ
To a quart of strong coffee add a pint of cream or milk
and a cupful of sugar; freeze it and serve it in glasses, or
freeze the sweetened coffee and serve it in glasses with
whipped cream on top. In the latter case the coffee must not
be quite as strong as when mixed with the cream.
Note.—For other ices, parfaits, and directions for freezing,
see “Century Cook Book,” page 488.
// 264.png
// 265.png
.pn +1
.pn +1 // blank pages sometimes included in pagination
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch12
Chapter XII||ELEVENTH COURSE
.sp 2
.nf c
FRUITS
.nf-
.sp 4
.pb
// 266.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
FRUITS
.in 6
.nf l
Pineapple, No. 1
Pineapple, No. 2
Pineapple, No. 3
Pineapple, No. 4
Pineapple, Pulled
Currants
Cherries
Pears
.nf-
.in 0
// 267.png
// 268.png
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.if h
.il fn=fig-159.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 159. THE SAME PINEAPPLE AS SHOWN IN NO. 158 DIVESTED OF ITS
COVERING TO SERVE AT DESSERT.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 159. THE SAME PINEAPPLE AS SHOWN IN NO. 158 DIVESTED OF ITS
COVERING TO SERVE AT DESSERT.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-160.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 160. SLICED PINEAPPLE, NO. 2.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 160. SLICED PINEAPPLE, NO. 2.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-161.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 161. SLICED PINEAPPLE AROUND A FORM OF RICE, NO. 3.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 161. SLICED PINEAPPLE AROUND A FORM OF RICE, NO. 3.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-162.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 162. SLICED PINEAPPLE, NO. 4.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 162. SLICED PINEAPPLE, NO. 4.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 269.png
.pn +1
.h3
PINEAPPLE
.if h
.il fn=fig-158.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 158. PINEAPPLE USED AS A CENTERPIECE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 158. PINEAPPLE USED AS A CENTERPIECE.]
.sp 2
.if-
This is a well-selected pine called the sugar-loaf on account
of its tapering to a point on top. The top and bottom are
cut off square, and then the rind on the sides. The inside
is cut into slices quarter of an inch thick, and left together
in natural shape. The rind is then fitted around it and,
if necessary, held in place with wooden toothpicks used as
skewers. These will not show, and can be easily removed at
the time of serving. Use the pine as a table ornament or
centerpiece.
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. The rind is removed from the pine shown in illustration
No. 158; it is then covered with sugar and
passed.
.ti -6
No. 2. The pineapple has been cut into slices quarter of an
inch thick, and then in halves. The half slices are
stood on edge and powdered sugar is placed in the
center of the circle.
.ni
Pineapple is much better in thick slices. The less
taste of the knife the better. Cut in this way, there
is no difficulty about the pieces standing in place as
shown in illustration.
.ti -6
No. 3. Cut the pineapple into slices quarter of an inch thick,
and then into quarters. Arrange the quarters, standing
on edge, diagonally around the mound of boiled
rice. Place the sprout of the pine in the center of
// 270.png
.pn +1
the mound of rice. Have the rice sweetened and flavored.
Sherry or maraschino are good flavorings
to use.
Cornstarch pudding, blancmange, or any simple
jelly, can be used instead of the rice.
.ti -6
No. 4. Cut a pineapple into slices quarter of an inch thick.
With a small biscuit-cutter stamp out the hard centers,
leaving the pineapple in rings. Arrange the
rings, overlapping, in a circle. Sprinkle them with
granulated sugar, and garnish with a small leaf of
the pine laid in each hole.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-163.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 163. PULLED PINEAPPLE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 163. PULLED PINEAPPLE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.pi
Pulled pineapple. This is a delicious way of serving the
pine when it is very ripe.
Cut off the rind, and with a small, pointed knife take out
the eyes. Put a fork in the hard core to hold it, and with
a second fork tear off the soft pulp. Pile the pieces in a glass
dish and sprinkle them plentifully with sugar. Let it stand
a few minutes to extract the juice before serving.
.sp 2
.h3
CHERRIES
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Tie the cherries together by the stems into bunches
resembling bunches of grapes. If convenient, have
bunches of red and white cherries on the same dish.
.ti -6
No. 2. Turn lace papers into cornucopias and fill them with
cherries tied into even bunches; let the stems turn to
the points of the cornucopias, so the fruit only shows
in the opening.
Arrange the cornucopias on center dishes, in cone
shape, the points in.
.in 0
Note.—For other arrangements of fruits, see “Century
Cook Book,” page 529.
.if h
.il fn=fig-164.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 164. STRAWBERRIES SERVED WITH THE HULLS ON.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 164. STRAWBERRIES SERVED WITH THE HULLS ON.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-165.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 165. PEARS ARRANGED FOR CENTERPIECE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 165. PEARS ARRANGED FOR CENTERPIECE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-166.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 166. CENTERPIECE OF RED AND OF WHITE CURRANTS FOR THE
BREAKFAST- OR THE LUNCHEON-TABLE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 166. CENTERPIECE OF RED AND OF WHITE CURRANTS FOR THE
BREAKFAST- OR THE LUNCHEON-TABLE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-167.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 167. CENTERPIECE OF RED AND OF WHITE CURRANTS ARRANGED
IN A CIRCLE. THE COLORS ALTERNATING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 167. CENTERPIECE OF RED AND OF WHITE CURRANTS ARRANGED
IN A CIRCLE. THE COLORS ALTERNATING.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 273.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch13
Chapter XIII||LOAF CAKES—SMALL CAKES—FANCY CAKES
.sp 4
// 274.png
.pn +1
//.pn +1 // blank page included in the page count
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 2
.nf c
LOAF CAKES
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Gingerbread with Chocolate Glaze
Gingerbread with Whipped Cream
Gingerbread with Preserved Ginger
Orange-cake, No. 1
Orange-cake, No. 2, or Plain Cup-cake
Chocolate-cake
Cocoanut-cake
Cocoanut Cream-cake
Cake Decorated with Star
Cake Decorated in Two Shades of White Icing
Iced Cake Decorated with Pink Bow-knot
Cake Decorated with Candied Violets
Cake Decorated with Candied Rose-leaves
Cake-basket Holding Meringue Mushrooms
.nf-
.in 0
.nf c
SMALL CAKES
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Jelly-roll
Daisy Cakes
Medallion Fruit-cakes
Cup-cakes with Decoration of Flower Design
.nf-
.in 0
.nf c
FANCY CAKES
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Cherry-cakes
Domino Cakes
Marble Cakes
Hemispheres
Cream-cakes
Cream-cakes, Iced
Cream-cakes with Jam and Whipped Cream
Little Cream-cakes with Caramel Icing
Meringue Mushrooms
Cocoanut Meringues
Galettes
Pastry Fingers
.nf-
.in 0
// 275.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h3
LOAF CAKES
.h3
GINGERBREAD WITH CHOCOLATE GLAZE
.nf l
No. 1. ¾ of a cupful of butter,
1 cupful of sugar,
3 cupfuls of flour,
1 cupful of dark molasses,
1 cupful of black coffee,
1 teaspoonful of ginger,
½ teaspoonful of cloves,
1 teaspoonful of cinnamon,
1 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda,
3 eggs.
.nf-
Mix the spices with the molasses. Dissolve the soda in a
little boiling water and add it to the coffee. Cream together
the butter and sugar, add the eggs, one at a time, and beat
each one well. Add the molasses, then the coffee and flour,
a little at a time, alternately. Bake in two bread-tins in a
moderate oven forty to sixty minutes, or until the cake leaves
the sides of the pans.
Invert the loaves and cover the tops with a chocolate glaze
made as follows:
.sp 2
.h3
CHOCOLATE GLAZE
Put into a double saucepan two ounces or squares of
chocolate. When it is melted remove it from the fire and
stir into it half a cupful of sugar, then add a quarter cupful
of hot water. Return it to the fire, stir it until the sugar
// 276.png
.pn +1
is dissolved, and continue to cook it without stirring until
a little dropped in water can be taken up and rolled between
the fingers into a soft ball. Pour it over the top of the cake.
.ni
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 2. With whipped cream. Use the same receipt as No. 1,
substituting a cupful of boiling water for the coffee,
and using half butter and half lard; or two cupfuls
of molasses may be used, and the sugar omitted. In
the latter case two teaspoonfuls of soda instead of
one should be dissolved in a cupful of boiling water.
Serve the cake very fresh, and cover the top just before
serving with whipped cream.
The cake may be broken into squares, and the
pieces fitted together and covered entirely with
whipped cream. It can then be passed with a fork
and spoon, as a dessert.
.ti -6
No. 3. With preserved ginger.
.in 6
.nf l
1 cupful of black molasses,
½ cupful of butter,
2 cupfuls of flour,
½ cupful of boiling water with a teaspoonful
of soda dissolved in it,
½ teaspoonful of ginger,
2 eggs,
A dash of salt.
.nf-
.in 0
.pi
Warm the molasses and mix it with the butter, add the
ginger and salt, then the beaten eggs, and lastly the flour
and water, a little at a time, alternately. Bake in a square
pan. Break the cake into square pieces. Open each piece
and spread between the halves some icing, No. 1 or No. 2,
mixed with chopped preserved ginger; or use a chocolate
icing.
Serve very fresh.
.if h
.il fn=fig-168.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 168. GINGERBREAD.
1. WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 2. WITH CHOCOLATE GLAZE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 168. GINGERBREAD.
1. WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 2. WITH CHOCOLATE GLAZE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-169.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 169. ORANGE-CAKE IN CRESCENTS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 169. ORANGE-CAKE IN CRESCENTS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-170.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 170. COCOANUT-CAKE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 170. COCOANUT-CAKE.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 278.png
// 279.png
// 277.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
ORANGE-CAKE, No. 1
.in 6
.nf l
Yolks of five eggs,
Whites of three eggs,
2 cupfuls of powdered sugar,
2 cupfuls of flour sifted three times with
1 teaspoonful of baking-powder,
½ cupful of water,
Juice of one orange,
Grated peel of one half orange.
.nf-
.in 0
First beat the yolks and sugar together thoroughly, then
add the orange juice and grated peel, then the flour and
water, a little at a time, alternately, and lastly the whites
of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth.
Make the layer one and a quarter inches thick for crescents.
Bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes, or until
the cake leaves the sides of the pan. Cut the layer into
pieces with a crescent-shaped cutter, and cover the tops with
icing No. 1, page #191#, made of confectioners’ sugar and with
water strained from grated peel. Arrange the crescents as
shown in illustration.
The amount of mixture given in above receipt will make
a long layer which can be cut into eight crescents, and two
round layers one inch thick and six inches in diameter.
Spread the tops of the round layers with same icing and
place one on top of the other; or use cocoanut cream filling
in place of the icing, as in illustration #No. 171:fig-171#.
.sp 2
.h3
ORANGE-CAKE, No. 2, or PLAIN CUP-CAKE
.in 6
.nf l
¼ cupful of butter,
1 cupful of sugar,
2 cupfuls of sifted flour,
½ cupful of milk,
2 eggs,
½ teaspoonful of baking-powder,
Grated rind and juice of one orange, or of one lemon.
.nf-
.in 0
// 280.png
.pn +1
Beat together the butter and sugar, add the yolks of the
eggs and the flavoring, then alternately, a little at a time,
the milk and the flour which has been mixed with the baking-powder
by sifting them together. Lastly fold in the whites
of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a moderate oven.
If flavored with orange, cover the loaf with orange icing, or
bake it in layers and spread the icing between the layers as
well as on top. The icing should be mixed with the juice
of an orange and the part put between the layers should have
some of the grated peel in it.
.sp 2
.h3
CHOCOLATE-CAKE
Shave four squares of unsweetened chocolate, add half
a cupful of milk and half a cupful of sugar. Boil until
thickened, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla.
Mix half a cupful of butter and half a cupful of sugar,
stir them to a cream, then add the beaten yolks of three eggs
and the chocolate mixture, then alternately, a little at a
time, two cupfuls of sifted flour mixed with a teaspoonful
of baking-powder, and half a cupful of milk. Lastly, fold
in the whites of two eggs. Bake in loaves or in layers in
a moderate oven. This amount of mixture will make two
loaves.
Cover with chocolate icing No. 13. If in layers, use the
same icing between the layers.
.sp 2
.h3
COCOANUT-CAKE
Make two layers of cake, using any cake mixture. Spread
cream filling between the layers. Cut the edges even, using
a sharp knife. Cover the whole with icing and before it
hardens sprinkle it with a plentiful amount of grated cocoanut.
// 281.png
// 282.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-171.jpg w=600px id=fig-171
.ca
NO. 171. COCOANUT-CREAM CAKE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 171. COCOANUT-CREAM CAKE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-172.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 172. LOAF OF CAKE DECORATED WITH POWDERED SUGAR AND
STAR OF POWDERED COCOA.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 172. LOAF OF CAKE DECORATED WITH POWDERED SUGAR AND
STAR OF POWDERED COCOA.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-173.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 173. LOAF OF CAKE DECORATED WITH ICING IN TWO SHADES OF WHITE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 173. LOAF OF CAKE DECORATED WITH ICING IN TWO SHADES OF WHITE.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 283.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
COCOANUT CREAM-CAKE
Use any cake mixture for the layers. The orange-cake
mixtures are recommended.
Make a filling as follows: put in a saucepan,
.in 6
.nf l
1 cupful of milk,
1 cupful of sugar,
½ cupful of cocoanut,
A piece of butter the size of a nutmeg.
.nf-
.in 0
Mix them and let them come to the boiling-point, then add
slowly a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch, moistened with
a tablespoonful of milk, and stir until the mixture is thickened.
Remove it from the fire and add the beaten yolk of an
egg. When it cools and is beginning to set, spread it over
the tops of both layers of cake and place one on the other.
Trim the edges. Sprinkle the top with powdered sugar or
with grated cocoanut.
The cake in the illustration has in the center a confectioner’s
rose. Various kinds of sugar flowers can be bought
at bakers’ supply stores.
.sp 2
.h3
CAKE DECORATED WITH STAR
Paint the surface of an inverted loaf of any kind of cake
with white of egg, then sift over it while it is moist enough
powdered sugar to whiten it. Place a star stencil on top, get
it exactly in the center, and sift powdered cocoa into the
opening.
The star could be made of granulated sugar, colored pink,
if preferred, or a space could be filled with small candies
called “hundreds and thousands.”
.sp 2
.h3
TO MAKE STENCIL
Place a piece of stiff paper over the bottom of the inverted
pan in which the cake was baked and crease it enough to indicate
// 284.png
.pn +1
the circle. Outline the circle with a pencil and draw
inside of it two other circles, the first half an inch and the
second one and a half inches inside the outer one. Draw
two lines across the circles at right angles, then two more
lines at equal distances between the others, then draw pointed
lines in the eight spaces between the second and third circles.
.sp 2
.h3
CAKE DECORATED IN TWO SHADES OF WHITE ICING
The illustration shows a simple pattern for decorating a
loaf of cake. The cake can be made of any mixture. It
is first covered with icing No. 3, page #192#, which gives
a clear icing and makes a good background for the white
lines. If it does not run evenly dip a knife in water and
smooth it. Most irregularities can be smoothed out with a
clean, wet knife. The lines are made of decorating icing,
which is white (No. 16, page #195#), pressed through a pastry-bag
with tube of small opening. Each one of the center
figures of the pattern holds a small silvered pellet of candy.
.sp 2
.h3
ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH PINK BOW-KNOT
Cover the cake with a smooth, hard icing (No. 2 or No. 4).
Put decorating icing (No. #16#), colored pink with cochineal,
into a pastry-bag with tube of plain, small opening, and
trace a bow-knot with it. Fill the space between the outlines
with pink icing, and flatten it, to look like a ribbon, with
a wet knife.
If the tracing is not satisfactory, take it off with a knife,
wipe the cake with a dry cloth, and make another trial. A
little practice with a pencil, drawing a knot of the right size
on paper, will enable one to trace more easily the outlines on
the cake.
// 285.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-174.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 174. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH PINK BOW-KNOT.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 174. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH PINK BOW-KNOT.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-175.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 175. 1. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED ROSE-LEAVES.
2. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED VIOLETS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 175. 1. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED ROSE-LEAVES.
2. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED VIOLETS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-176.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 176. LOAF OF CAKE COVERED WITH TUTTI FRUTTI ICING.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 176. LOAF OF CAKE COVERED WITH TUTTI FRUTTI ICING.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 286.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-177.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 177. CAKE-BASKET HOLDING MERINGUE MUSHROOMS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 177. CAKE-BASKET HOLDING MERINGUE MUSHROOMS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-178.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 178. 1. JELLY-ROLL. 2. DAISY CAKES. 3. MEDALLION FRUIT-CAKES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 178. 1. JELLY-ROLL. 2. DAISY CAKES. 3. MEDALLION FRUIT-CAKES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 287.png
.pn +1
.h3
CAKES DECORATED WITH CANDIED VIOLETS|AND WITH CANDIED ROSE-LEAVES
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Cover a loaf of cake with icing flavored with rose-water
or extract. Scatter over it candied pink rose-leaves.
.ti -6
No. 2. Make a loaf of orange-cake. Cover it with white
icing, and arrange around it candied violets forming
two wreaths.
.in 0
.sp 2
.h3
CAKE-BASKET HOLDING MERINGUE MUSHROOMS
Make a loaf of any kind of cake, cup- or sponge-cake preferred.
Bake it in a fluted pan.
Soften a long piece of macaroni in boiling-hot water. It
must be pressed carefully and gradually into the water as the
ends soften. When the macaroni is sufficiently softened,
pour cold water over it, lay it on a board, and bend it into the
shape of a handle of suitable size for the cake. Let it dry,
then brush it with the white of egg and sprinkle it with
granulated sugar.
Cut little holes in the top of the cake and insert the handle.
Cover the top of the cake with mushroom-shaped meringues
(see page #189#).
.sp 2
.h3
SMALL CAKES
.ni
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Jelly-roll. Make a layer of sponge-cake, and while it
is still hot cut off the edges, spread it with jelly, and
roll it together. Then roll it in a stiff paper and tie
it. If the cake is not over-baked and is rolled while
hot it will not crack. The paper will keep it in shape.
Cover the top and ends with icing. Decorate it with
tracings of icing, candied cherries, and angelica.
// 288.png
.pn +1
.ti -6
No. 2. Daisy cakes. Drop separate spoonfuls of sponge-cake
mixture at intervals on a baking-sheet. Bake
in a hot oven for a few minutes only, and watch carefully
that the edges do not burn. The cakes will
spread, rising in the center, and be thin on the edges.
Spread the flat sides with an icing colored green.
Blanch some almonds, split them, and cut them in
strips. Arrange them in a circle, and place in the
center a little icing mixed with yolk of egg to color
it yellow; or the icing can be white and the almonds
colored in the oven to a light yellow.
.ti -6
No. 3. Medallion fruit-cakes. Use a sponge- or a cup-cake
mixture and bake it in gem-pans. If they rise in the
center cut off the tops to even them. Invert them,
and with a small cutter stamp a circle in the center
of each one and take out a thin layer of the cake.
Cover the rest of the cakes with icing, or the cakes
may be moistened with water and then rubbed over
with powdered sugar to whiten them. Place in the
center of each, where the piece was removed, a piece
of preserved peach or other fruit, cut with the same
stamp previously used, so the fruit will exactly fit
the opening.
.in 0
.pi
.if h
.il fn=fig-179.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 179. CUP-CAKES, DECORATION OF FLOWER DESIGN.
.ca-
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 179. CUP-CAKES, DECORATION OF FLOWER DESIGN.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
CUP-CAKES WITH DECORATION OF FLOWER DESIGN
Make a cup-cake mixture and bake it in gem-pans. Invert
the cakes and cover them with icing Nos. 1, 2, or 3.
Place on top of each one half a candied cherry, the flat side
down, two pieces of angelica cut into diamond shape to imitate
leaves, and a thin strip of angelica to imitate a stem.
// 289.png
// 290.png
// 291.png
.if h
.il fn=fig-180.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 180. FANCY CAKES.
1. CHERRY CAKES. 2. DOMINO CAKES. 3. MARBLE CAKES. 4. HEMISPHERES.
.ca-
.if-
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 180. CUP-CAKES, DECORATION OF FLOWER DESIGN.
1. CHERRY CAKES.\_\_2. DOMINO CAKES.\_\_3. MARBLE CAKES.\_\_4. HEMISPHERES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 291.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
FANCY CAKES
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Cherry-cakes. Cut a layer of any kind of cake into
pieces three inches long and two and a quarter wide.
Ice them, lay on candied cherries cut in halves, small
strips of angelica imitating stems, and angelica cut
in diamond-shaped pieces imitating leaves.
.ni
The cakes in illustration are made of sponge-cake;
the two on the outside are covered with icing No. 4,
the other two with maple icing No. 5.
.ti -6
No. 2. Domino cakes. Cut a layer of cake into two pieces.
Cover one with chocolate icing and the other with
white icing. While the icing is still soft cut the cake,
using a sharp knife, into pieces three inches long
and one and a half inches wide.
Put a little decorating icing (No. #16#) into a pastry-bag
with plain tube of small opening, and press it
through on to the cakes in dots and lines to imitate
dominoes. Use white icing for the chocolate pieces,
and the same icing mixed with cocoa powder for the
white pieces.
.ti -6
No. 3. Marble cakes. Drop any cake mixture from a spoon
on to a floured baking-sheet, using about a dessertspoonful
of mixture for each cake, and leaving
enough space for the cakes to spread. Place on the flat
sides icings of three colors and let them run together
irregularly to give a marble-like appearance.
.ti -6
No. 4. Hemispheres. Make a cake mixture, using,
.in 6
.nf l
¼ cupful of butter,
¼ cupful of powdered sugar,
¾ cupful of pastry flour,
½ teaspoonful of vanilla,
Yolks of two eggs.
.nf-
.in 0
// 292.png
.pn +1
.pi
Cream together the butter and sugar, add the yolks and
flavoring, and then the flour. Make it into balls one inch in
diameter, by rolling small portions of the mixture between
the hands. Roll the balls in powdered sugar and place them
on a floured tin. They will flatten in baking and leave the
shape of hemispheres. Bake them in a moderate oven ten to
fifteen minutes. Cover the flat sides with icing of different
colors and ornament with decorating icing pressed through
a tube of small opening.
In the illustration some of the cakes have only the decorating
icing in rings with a spot of jelly in the center, others
have pistache with decoration, and others have plain icing
with a spot of jelly in the center.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM-CAKES
To a cupful of hot water add a tablespoonful of butter,
a tablespoonful of sugar, and a dash of salt. When the
sugar is dissolved and the butter melted add a cupful and a
quarter of flour. Cook it, stirring all the time, until it is
a smooth paste that leaves the sides of the pan. Let it cool
a few minutes and then add three or, if necessary, four eggs,
beating in well one at a time. The paste should have sufficient
consistency to hold its shape without spreading when
dropped from a spoon.
Put the paste into a pastry-bag with a plain tube of half-inch
opening and press it through into balls from three
quarters of an inch to two and a half inches in diameter,
according to the size of cakes wanted. Brush the tops with
egg and bake in a slow oven for thirty to forty minutes, or
until the cakes are puffed and feel light.
If they are to be used for plain cream-cakes, open them
on one side and put in a spoonful of cream filling made as
follows:
// 293.png
// 294.png
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.il fn=fig-181.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 181. CREAM CAKES, ICED.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 181. CREAM CAKES, ICED.]
.sp 2
.if-
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.il fn=fig-182.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 182. CREAM CAKES WITH JAM AND WHIPPED CREAM.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 182. CREAM CAKES WITH JAM AND WHIPPED CREAM.]
.sp 2
.if-
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.il fn=fig-183.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 183. MERINGUE MUSHROOMS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 183. MERINGUE MUSHROOMS.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 295.png
.pn +1
.h3
CREAM FILLING
Beat together the yolks of five eggs, half a cupful of sugar,
and a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch, add a pint of
scalding milk and stir over the fire until it is well thickened,
then add half a teaspoonful of vanilla or other flavoring.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM-CAKES, ICED
Make cream-cakes two inches in diameter, fill them with
charlotte russe filling, or with apricot or other jam, and
whipped cream. Cover them with icing No. 1 or 2; or fill
them with cream filling flavored with coffee and cover them
with icing No. 1 made with coffee.
.sp 2
.h3
CREAM-CAKES WITH JAM AND WHIPPED CREAM
Make cream-cakes one to one and a half inches across.
Open and spread the inside with apricot or any jam, and
then fill them with whipped cream. Boil a little sugar and
water to the crack; that is, until a little of the boiling sugar
dropped into water will be brittle enough to break with a
snap. Pour this over the cakes, and sprinkle them with
chopped blanched almonds.
.sp 2
.h3
LITTLE CREAM-CAKES WITH CARAMEL ICING
Make cream-cakes of one inch diameter. Fill them with cream filling,
and cover them with sugar boiled to the crack, as directed above.
Place each one in a little paper box and serve with other fancy cakes.
.sp 2
.h3
MERINGUE MUSHROOMS
Place meringue mixture (see page #150#) in a pastry-bag
with a plain tube, and press it through into shapes like mushroom
caps. This is done by holding the tube still until
// 296.png
.pn +1
enough of the egg is pressed through to form a cap of the size
desired and high in the center. With a wet knife lightly
press down the point left by the tube, and, if necessary,
smooth the whole top. On another paper make forms resembling
mushroom stems, and with a wet knife flatten the tops.
Place all in a cool oven for a few minutes to form a crust,
but do not let them color. When a little firm place them on
the hot shelf to dry. Sprinkle the tops of the caps with
powdered cocoa, and with the finger darken an edge around
the flat under surface to represent the gills of a mushroom.
Moisten the tops of the stems with white of egg and stick
them on the caps.
.sp 2
.h3
COCOANUT MERINGUES
Place meringue mixture (page #150#) in a pastry-bag with
plain tube of one-half inch opening, and press it through on
to paper in pieces about three inches long. Cut the meringue
from the tube to give clean ends. Sprinkle the tops with as
much grated cocoanut as will adhere. Desiccated cocoanut
can be used. Place in a moderate oven to color it lightly,
then remove to the hot shelf of the range to dry.
These meringues are also pretty if pressed through a star-tube
into rings.
.sp 2
.h3
GALETTES
Roll puff-paste trimmings as thin as possible. Stamp it all
over with some rough surface which will pierce the paste
(a wooden meat-pounder was used for those in illustration).
Then cut with a plain biscuit-cutter into round or oblong
shapes. Lay these on a baking-sheet, paint the tops all over
evenly with egg, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar.
Bake in a medium oven until lightly colored.
Every scrap of paste can be utilized for these cakes, which
are very nice with ice-cream or for afternoon tea-cakes.
// 297.png
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.il fn=fig-184.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 184. COCOANUT MERINGUES.
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.if-
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 184. COCOANUT MERINGUES.]
.sp 2
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.il fn=fig-185.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 185. GALETTES.
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 185. GALETTES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 298.png
// 299.png
.pn +1
There is a utensil for making these cakes, but it is too expensive
for general use. It is a metal plate with raised
pattern, and over this the thin paste is rolled.
.sp 2
.h3
PASTRY FINGERS
Roll puff-paste to one-eighth inch thickness. Cut it into
strips one inch wide and three inches long. Spread one
half of the strips with a thin layer of any kind of jam, and
cover with the remaining strips, making sandwich-like
pieces. Bake in a hot oven for ten minutes, or until done,
then paint the tops with white of egg and sprinkle with
powdered sugar and chopped blanched almonds. Return to
the oven to glaze and slightly color the nuts.
If not used at once place the fingers in the oven a few minutes
to freshen them before serving.
.sp 2
.h3
ICINGS
.ni
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. Using confectioners’ sugar. This is XXXX sugar, and
is exceedingly fine.
Mix confectioners’ sugar with enough water to
make it spread evenly. A little flavoring of any kind
may be put in the water, but is not necessary. This
makes a soft, clear icing, which is very nice and is
the easiest of all icings to prepare and handle.
For orange icing. Use strained orange juice instead
of water, or soak the grated peel in hot water for a
little while, and then strain it through a cloth and
use the water.
For yellow icing. Dilute the yolk of an egg with a
little water, and flavor with mandarin orange extract.
// 300.png
.pn +1
For pistache icing. Color the water with green coloring
paste, and flavor it with one teaspoonful of orange-flower
water and one quarter teaspoonful of
bitter-almond extract.
For pink icing. Use strawberry juice, or color water
with a little cochineal.
For wine-cakes. Use sherry instead of water.
.ti -6
No. 2. Hard, white icing. Take the unbeaten white of an
egg, dilute it with a very little water and flavor it.
Stir in powdered sugar until it is of the consistency
to spread.
This makes a hard, white icing.
.ti -6
No. 3. Boiled icing. Put a cupful of granulated sugar and
a half cupful of hot water into a saucepan and stir
until the sugar is dissolved, then let it boil without
stirring until it threads or, if dropped into water,
it can be taken up and rolled between the fingers into
a soft ball. Remove it from the fire and stir until
it slightly clouds, then immediately pour it over the
cake.
This makes a clear icing, and is a good covering
for cakes which are to be decorated, as it gives, with
the decorating icing, two colors.
.ti -6
No. 4. Boiled icing, No. 2. Cook, without stirring, after the
sugar is dissolved, one cupful of granulated sugar
and one quarter cupful of hot water until it threads,
then pour it slowly over the whipped white of one
egg. Beat the mixture all the time, and until it is
cool enough to spread.
// 301.png
.pn +1
.ti -6
No. 5. Maple icing. Boil to the thread or soft-ball stage
a cupful of maple sugar with a quarter of a cupful
of hot water to dissolve it, or use maple syrup. Pour
it slowly over the whipped white of one egg as in
No. 4.
.ti -6
No. 6. Caramel icing. Boil a cupful of granulated sugar,
a half cupful of milk, and a teaspoonful of butter to
the thread or soft-ball stage. Flavor with a few drops
of vanilla and stir until it begins to grain.
.ti -6
No. 7. Crystal icing. Spread any icing over a cake, and
while it is still moist sprinkle over it the coarse grains
of granulated sugar obtained by sifting.
.ti -6
No. 8. Powdered sugar. Moisten with a brush the surface
of a cake with the white of an egg diluted with a
tablespoonful of water and stirred just enough to
break the stringiness; then dust it thickly with powdered
sugar, using a sifter. After the egg has dried,
shake off the sugar that does not adhere.
.ti -6
No. 9. Whipped cream. Flavor a half pint of cream with a
few drops of vanilla and whip it until it is stiff and
dry. Just before serving the cake ornament it with
the whipped cream pressed through a pastry-bag and
star-tube.
This cream is used with strawberry cake and with
molasses gingerbread.
.ti -6
No. 10. Whipped cream with maple flavor. Heat two tablespoonfuls of
maple syrup and dissolve in it one teaspoonful of granulated gelatine
which has been soaked in a tablespoonful of cold water. Let the
// 302.png
.pn +1
syrup cool so it will not heat the cream, but before
it sets stir it into a half pint of cream. Whip the
cream to a stiff froth and press it through a pastry-bag
and tube on to the cake in an ornamental pattern.
.ti -6
No. 11. Butter. Whip a half pound of butter until it is
smooth and light, sweeten it with thick sugar syrup
flavored, and add a level tablespoonful of cornstarch.
Press it through a pastry-bag and tube on
to the cake in ornamental designs.
.ti -6
No. 12. Mocha cream. Whip half a pound of butter, using
a fork, until it is smooth and light. Flavor it with
syrup made of a half cupful of sugar and a quarter
cupful of strong coffee. Add a level tablespoonful
of cornstarch to give the butter more stability.
Press it through a pastry-bag and tube.
.ti -6
No. 13. Chocolate icing, No. 1. Dissolve one and a half
ounces of unsweetened chocolate in one third cupful
of cream or milk, and add half a teaspoonful of
butter. When this mixture is a little cool add the
beaten yolk of one egg, one half teaspoonful of
vanilla, and enough confectioners’ sugar to make
it spread.
.ti -6
No. 14. Chocolate icing, No. 2. Melt two ounces of unsweetened
chocolate on a hot pan, remove it from the fire,
and add half a cupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of
butter, and lastly a quarter cupful of milk. Replace
it on the fire and cook until a little dropped
into water will form a soft ball. Pour it over the
cake.
// 303.png
.pn +1
.ti -6
No. 15. Tutti frutti icing. Cook a cupful of sugar and a
quarter cupful of water to the thread or soft-ball
stage. Turn it slowly on to the whipped white of
one egg. Beat them together and add a tablespoonful
each of chopped blanched almonds, citron cut
in small pieces, seeded raisins, candied cherries cut
into pieces, and angelica cut into bits. Spread it
roughly over the cake. Any combination of fruits
may be used instead of those given above. As this
is a rich icing, it should be used on a plain cake, such
as cup- or sponge-cake.
.ti -6
No. 16. Decorating icing. Whip the whites of two eggs to a
very stiff froth, then add slowly powdered sugar
until the mixture is so stiff that every point and
thread left by the beater will hold its place. It requires
beating a long time. It is the same as meringue
mixture, except that it is made hard with
sugar instead of by drying, and takes about a half
cupful of sugar to each egg.
.ti -6
Note.—Sprinkle a cake that is going to be frosted with
flour as soon as it is taken from the pan. Before
icing, wipe off the flour. This prevents the icing
from running so much, and makes it easier to spread.
.ti -6
Note.—Smooth icings with the broad side of a wet knife.
Wipe the blade clean, and dip it in water each time
it is drawn over the icing. In this way very rough
surfaces can be smoothed.
.ti -6
Note.—Icing left over will keep any length of time, if excluded
from the air and not allowed to dry. Put it
in a cup, cover the cup with a wet cloth, double several
times, and cover the cloth with a saucer.
.ti -6
Note.—For other icings and directions, see “Century Cook
Book,” page 483.
.in 0
.pi
// 304.png
// 305.png
.pn +1
.pn +1 // blank pages sometimes included in pagination
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.h2 id=ch14
Chapter XIV||BREADS
.sp 4
// 306.png
.pn +1
.pb
.sp 4
.nf c
BREADS
.nf-
.in 6
.nf l
Stirred Bread
Water Bread
Whole Wheat Bread
Unleavened Bread-chips
Scotch Oat-cakes
Pulled Bread
Lace Toast or Zwieback
Swiss Rolls
Luncheon or Dinner Rolls, Braids, Twists
Striped Bread and Butter
Checkered Bread and Butter
Sandwiches, Bread and Butter
Sandwiches, Rolled or Motto
Sandwiches, Lettuce
Sandwiches: Cucumber, Egg, Cheese, Watercress, Pâté de Foie Gras, Chicken, Fish or\
Meat, Nasturtium Flowers, Olives, Nuts, Jam or Jellies
Sandwiches, Toasted Cheese
Brioche
Corn-muffins
Cheese-crackers
.nf-
.in 0
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.if h
.il fn=fig-187.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 187. STIRRED BREAD.
.ca-
.if-
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.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 187. STIRRED BREAD.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 307.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
STIRRED BREAD
.in 6
.nf l
1½ quarts of water,
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar,
1 tablespoonful of butter, lard, or cottolene,
1 tablespoonful of salt,
1 cake of compressed yeast,
Flour enough to make a thick batter, or about two and three-quarter quarts.
.nf-
.in 0
This quantity of material will make three loaves.
Have the water warm, not hot. Stir into the water the
sugar, salt, softened butter, and the yeast, which has been
dissolved in a tablespoonful of water (yeast is more easily
dissolved in a small quantity of water), then stir in enough
flour to make a batter as thick as can be stirred easily. Stir
and beat the batter well for about ten minutes. Cover the
bread-pan and set it in a warm place (eighty degrees is the
right temperature). When the dough is light, or about
doubled in bulk, stir it down, and beat it well for a few minutes.
Let it rise a second time, and again beat it, then turn
it into the pans, filling them half full. The tops of the
loaves can be made smooth by brushing them with a pastry-brush
dipped in water.
The stirring gives a fine texture. The dough rises quickly
after the first rising, and must be watched that it does not
get light enough to sour. Let the loaves rise in the baking-pans
to double in size, then bake in a hot oven for one hour.
Bread made in this way is very light and spongy, and
is much better than that which is made so thick with flour
// 308.png
.pn +1
that it can be kneaded. It has also the other advantages of
being easier to make, the results are more reliable, and the
objection of too much handling is removed. It requires an
experienced hand to knead bread without making it too
heavy with flour.
.if h
.il fn=fig-188.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 188. WATER BREAD.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 188. WATER BREAD.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
WATER BREAD
.in 6
.nf l
2½ quarts of flour,
1 quart of water,
1 tablespoonful of salt,
1½ cakes of compressed yeast.
.nf-
.in 0
Place the flour on the hot shelf to get thoroughly warm.
Let it be warm to the hand. Dissolve the yeast in a tablespoonful
of water, and add it, with the salt, to a quart of
warm water. Turn the liquid into the flour, reserving enough
flour to use on the molding-board. Mix it thoroughly. Turn
it on to the board and form it into well-shaped loaves.
This quantity of material will make three loaves. Let it rise
in the pans to double in size, which will take about one and
a half hours. Bake for one hour.
This bread is made in about three hours. It is the most
simple receipt possible, and gives excellent results. Some
judgment must be used about the quantity of flour, as it
takes a little more or less according to its dryness.
.sp 2
.h3
WHOLE WHEAT BREAD
.in 6
.nf l
2½ quarts of whole wheat flour,
1 teaspoonful of salt,
½ cupful of molasses or of sugar,
½ cake of compressed yeast,
About 1 quart of water.
.nf-
.in 0
Add the salt to the water. Mix the molasses with part of
the water and with the yeast, which has been dissolved in a
// 309.png
// 310.png
// 311.png
.pn +1
little water. Stir the liquid into the flour, and add enough
more water to make a thick batter. Beat it for some time, or
until it is well mixed and the batter is smooth. Let it rise
overnight. Early in the morning stir it down, and turn
it into the pans. Let it rise in the pans to double in size,
and bake for one hour. The above quantities will make
two loaves.
.if h
.il fn=fig-186.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 186. BREAD-PAN WITH CLOSE-FITTING COVER.
The cover excludes the air from the dough, so no crust forms while it is rising.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 186. BREAD-PAN WITH CLOSE-FITTING COVER.
The cover excludes the air from the dough, so no crust forms while it is rising.]
.sp 2
.if-
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.il fn=fig-189.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 186. ROUND LOAF AND BAKING TIN.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 189. ROUND LOAF AND BAKING TIN.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
ROUND LOAF AND BAKING TIN
Any bread mixture may be baked in this pan. The fancy
form is its only recommendation. Round slices are attractive
for a change, and made into toast give also an agreeable
variety.
The pan is filled barely half full of dough. It is left to
rise for one hour, and is baked for one hour.
.if h
.il fn=fig-190.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 190. 1. UNLEAVENED BREAD CHIPS. 2. SCOTCH OAT-CAKES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 190. 1. UNLEAVENED BREAD CHIPS. 2. SCOTCH OAT-CAKES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
UNLEAVENED BREAD-CHIPS
Mix into a quart of graham, or of white, or of whole wheat
flour one tablespoonful of butter and one level tablespoonful
of salt, then add about one and a quarter cupfuls of milk
and water, half and half, or enough to make a stiff dough.
Flour the molding-board and roll the mixture thin, fold it
together twice and roll it again. Again fold it, and again
roll it very thin. Mark it off, using a pastry-wheel, into
strips one and a quarter inches wide and four to five inches
long. Bake it in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, or
until the chips are cooked through and are brittle, but not
very brown.
This bread is recommended for dyspeptics and people of
delicate digestion, on the theory that the yeast-plant is not
thoroughly destroyed when baking bread, and that it continues
to ferment in the stomach.
// 312.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
SCOTCH OAT-CAKES
These cakes should be made of meal ground finer than
any we are able to get in our markets; therefore, one must
resort to the expedient of pounding in a mortar the finest
meal obtainable, and sifting it through a coarse mesh.
Add to one cupful of fine meal one teaspoonful of salt and
enough hot water to make a stiff dough. Sift some of the
meal on to the molding-board, and roll the mixture into
a thin cake. Bake it slowly on a griddle until it is thoroughly
dried.
.if h
.il fn=fig-191.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 191. PULLED BREAD.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 191. PULLED BREAD.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
PULLED BREAD
Take a loaf of freshly baked bread. Cut through the crust
around the loaf at intervals of two inches, then pull the
thick slices apart. Remove the crumb from the crusts, leaving
it in ragged pieces. Place it in a slow oven to color and
crisp, turning it often enough to have it dry and color on
every side.
.if h
.il fn=fig-192.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 192. BREAD-PLANE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 192. BREAD-PLANE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
THE BREAD-CUTTER
The bread-plane can be adjusted to cut slices of any thickness.
It will cut fresh bread very thin. Bread which is a
day old it will cut as thin as lace. For cutting bread for
sandwiches it is especially useful.
.if h
.il fn=fig-193.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 193. LACK TOAST OR ZWIEBACK.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 193. LACK TOAST OR ZWIEBACK.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
LACE TOAST OR ZWIEBACK
Use stale bread, and with the bread-plane shave off slices
as thin as lace. Spread the slices on pans and place them in
the oven for a minute to brown, or place them on a toaster on
top of the range.
It will take but a minute for them to dry and take an even
light-golden color.
// 313.png
// 314.png
// 315.png
.pn +1
This toast can be served with soup, or at any time in place
of cracker biscuits. It is a form of toast much liked by people
who do not eat starchy foods and so abstain from bread.
.if h
.il fn=fig-194.jpg w=600px id=fig-194
.ca
NO. 194. SWISS ROLLS IN THE DOUGH.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 194. SWISS ROLLS IN THE DOUGH.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-195.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 195. SWISS ROLLS BAKED.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: No. 195. SWISS ROLLS BAKED.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
SWISS ROLLS
Scald one cupful of milk to which have been added one
tablespoonful of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of butter.
When it has partly cooled add one half a cake of compressed
yeast. Stir in well about three quarters of a quart of flour.
Put it in a moderately warm place to rise. When it is light,
place it in the ice-box for at least three hours, or overnight.
When ready to use, turn the raised dough on a well-floured
board, and roll it to a half-inch thickness. Spread
the top with butter, and roll the sheet of dough like a jelly-cake
roll. See illustration #No. 194:fig-194#. Cut from the end of the
roll slices three quarters of an inch in thickness.
Place the slices in pans, leaving plenty of room between
each one, so they will not touch in rising. Let them rise
slowly until they are very light, and more than doubled in
size. Bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes.
.if h
.il fn=fig-196.jpg w=600px id=fig-196
.ca
NO. 196. LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS AND BRAIDS IN THE DOUGH.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 196. LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS AND BRAIDS IN THE DOUGH.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-197.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 197. LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS AND TWISTS BAKED.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 197. LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS AND TWISTS BAKED.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS, BRAIDS, TWISTS
For these rolls, any bread dough may be used. In order
to get the pieces of uniform size, mold the dough into a roll
about one and a half inches in diameter. Cut the roll into
pieces one and a half inches long, giving pieces the size of an
egg, or make the pieces larger, if desired. Turn each piece
into a ball, and then, using both hands, roll it into shape,
making a roll which is thick in the center and pointed at
each end. See illustration #No. 196:fig-196#.
Place the rolls in pans, giving them sufficient room to rise
without touching. When they have a little more than
doubled in size, brush the tops with beaten egg diluted with
// 316.png
.pn +1
a little milk. Bake them in a quick oven for fifteen or
twenty minutes.
For making braids, roll the dough into pencil-shaped pieces
about half an inch in diameter and five inches long. Brush
each one with melted butter. Press the ends of three pieces
together and braid them. Let them rise to double in size,
brush the tops with egg and milk, and bake for fifteen to
twenty minutes.
Twists are made the same as braids, using two instead of
three pieces of dough.
.if h
.il fn=fig-199.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 199. STRIPED BREAD AND BUTTER.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 199. STRIPED BREAD AND BUTTER.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
STRIPED BREAD AND BUTTER
.nf c
For First Course with Oysters and Clams on the
Half Shell. For Fish and Salad Courses,
also for Afternoon Tea
.nf-
Cut white and any kind of brown bread into slices from
three eighths to half an inch in thickness. Spread each slice
generously with butter which is soft enough to spread easily.
Lay the slices together in alternating colors, two buttered
sides coming together in each layer. When the pile of buttered
slices is three and a half to four inches high, cut it into
good shape, removing the crusts. Place the bread between
two plates under a light weight and set it into the ice-box to
harden the butter. When ready to serve, cut it into slices
about as thick as the original slices, and then into strips.
.if h
.il fn=fig-200.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 200. CHECKERED BREAD AND BUTTER.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 200. CHECKERED BREAD AND BUTTER.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
CHECKERED BREAD AND BUTTER
Cut, one inch thick, three slices each of white and of
brown bread. Spread a slice of the white bread with a thick
layer of soft butter. Lay on it a buttered slice of brown
bread, placing the buttered sides together. Cover the top
of the brown slice with butter, and lay on it a buttered slice
// 317.png
.pn +1
of white bread, the buttered sides together. You have now
three layers of bread, with the brown slice in the middle.
Repeat the operation, reversing the order of the white and
brown slices. Trim the two piles evenly, and place them
in the ice-box under a light pressure. When the butter is
well hardened, cut slices an inch thick from the ends of
both piles. Butter these slices as before, placing two buttered
sides together, and arrange them so that the colors will alternate
in squares.
The hardened butter holds the pieces together, and if the
slices are evenly cut, a checkered square of bread will be the
result.
Put the bread and butter under a light pressure in the ice-box,
and when ready to serve cut it into thin slices.
.if h
.il fn=fig-201.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 201. BREAD AND BUTTER SANDWICHES.
1. CIRCLES OF BROWN BREAD WITH NUTS. 2. CIRCLES OF BROWN AND
WHITE BREAD COMBINED.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 201. BREAD AND BUTTER SANDWICHES.
1. CIRCLES OF BROWN BREAD WITH NUTS.
2. CIRCLES OF BROWN AND WHITE BREAD COMBINED.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
BREAD AND BUTTER SANDWICHES
It is difficult to butter very thin slices of bread unless the
butter is soft. It is well, when making plain bread and butter
sandwiches, to whip the butter until it is light, soft, and
smooth, and then to spread but one piece of the sandwich.
Where filling is used it is not necessary to butter the bread,
as oil or butter is used in the paste.
.in 6
.ti -6
No. 1. In circles with nuts. Thin slices of buttered Boston
brown bread, or of graham bread, cut with a biscuit-cutter
into circles one and a half inches in diameter.
The meat of one half of an English walnut is placed
on the top of each one and held in place with a little
butter.
.ti -6
No. 2. Brown and white bread combined. Cut into circles two
and a half inches or less in diameter thin slices of
brown and white bread. Use a buttered round of
brown and of white bread for each sandwich.
.in 0
.if h
.il fn=fig-202.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 202. 1. LETTUCE SANDWICHES. 2. ROLLED OR MOTTO SANDWICHES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 202. 1. LETTUCE SANDWICHES. 2. ROLLED OR MOTTO SANDWICHES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 318.png
.pn +1
.h3
ROLLED OR MOTTO SANDWICHES
For rolled sandwiches the bread should be very fresh
and moist, and entirely free from crust. As it is difficult to
cut fresh bread with a knife, use a loaf which is a day old
if a bread-plane is not at hand. Cut it into slices one eighth
of an inch thick, using a sharp knife. It will cut easier if the
crust is first removed from the loaf. Arrange the slices
in a pile and cut them all together into good shape. Wrap
the bread in a wet cloth and let it stand in a cool place for
two hours. The bread will then be moist and pliable enough
to roll without breaking. The slices may be simply buttered,
or they may be spread with any mixture desired. If meat
or fish is used, it should be reduced to paste by chopping
and pounding, and be well seasoned. (See “Century Cook
Book,” page 364.) Use some butter or oil in the mixture,
so the slices will not need to be buttered. Spread the slices
with the paste and roll them carefully, then roll each one in
a piece of paraffin paper, cut long enough to wrap the
sandwich one and a half times, and wide enough to extend
an inch over each end. Twist the ends of the paper.
Keep the sandwiches in the ice-box until ready to use, and
serve them with the papers on. Wrapped sandwiches will
keep fresh for forty-eight hours. They are especially suitable
for travelers and for picnics.
.sp 2
.h3
LETTUCE SANDWICHES
Cut fresh bread into slices a little more than one eighth of
an inch in thickness, using the bread-plane if convenient.
Arrange the slices in a pile, and cut the bread into a shape
about four by four and a half inches. This removes the
crusts and leaves all the slices of exactly the same size. Uniformity
in size and shape is one of the points to observe in
making sandwiches. Spread the slices lightly with butter
// 319.png
// 320.png
// 321.png
.pn +1
which is soft enough to spread evenly without tearing the
bread. Place on each buttered slice a leaf of crisp lettuce
which is large enough to extend a little over the ends of the
slice, and from which the midrib has been removed. Sprinkle
the lettuce plentifully with salt. Roll the slices carefully,
and tie around each one a piece of paper the width of the
bread.
At the time of serving, this paper is removed and the
butter will then be sufficiently hardened to keep the rolls
in shape.
Place the sandwiches on a plate, cover them with a wet
napkin, and keep them in a cool place until ready to serve.
In this way sandwiches may be kept fresh for twenty-four
hours.
.sp 2
.h3
SANDWICH FILLINGS
Chicken and celery. Chop chicken and celery in equal
quantities until they are very fine. Mix them to a paste with
mayonnaise.
Egg filling. Chop hard-boiled eggs until very fine and mix
them to a paste with plain French dressing, or with mayonnaise.
Ham filling. Put in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter,
one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of sugar,
and the yolks of two eggs. Beat them together, and add
slowly, stirring all the time, three quarters of a cupful of hot
vinegar. Place it on the fire and stir until the mixture is a
little thickened, then add one cupful of minced ham and two
thirds of a cupful of tender celery, also chopped very fine.
Add salt and pepper to taste.
This preparation can be kept, to use as needed, if put into
preserve glasses and covered with melted butter or lard.
// 322.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
SANDWICHES
.nf c
Made of Cucumber, Egg, Cheese, Watercress, Pâté
de Foie Gras, Chicken, Fish or Meats,
Nasturtium Flowers, Olives, Nuts,
Jams or Jellies
.nf-
Cut the bread into slices one eighth of an inch thick, and
remove the crust as directed above. The filling of a sandwich
should be as thick as one of the slices of bread. After
the sandwiches are prepared, using the whole slices, cut them
into the shapes desired. This may be small squares, fingers,
triangles, circles, or hearts, as the fancy or occasion dictates.
Where a variety of sandwiches are being served at the same
time, each variety should be cut alike, but of a different
pattern from the others, and the dish garnished distinctively.
For instance, a hard-boiled egg cut lengthwise, a square of
cheese, a few olives, nuts, flowers, or whatever the filling
used, can be placed in the center of the plate, and the sandwiches
arranged in a circle around it. A wishbone makes
a good label for chicken, and parsley or gherkins would
indicate meat mixtures. The brown breads make excellent
sandwiches, and help to give variety. Cucumbers sliced, and
watercress freed from the large stems, may be mixed with
French dressing before being placed in the bread, or they
may be only salted.
Nasturtium flowers require no seasoning.
Olives and nuts are sliced or cut into small pieces, but
should not be cut very fine, as it injures their flavor.
Cheese may be sliced or grated.
See “Century Cook Book,” page 364, for further directions
about mixtures for fillings.
When the sandwiches are finished they should be placed
between plates under a light weight, covered with a damp
cloth, and kept in a cool place until the time of serving.
.if h
.il fn=fig-203.jpg w=600px cj=l
.ca
NO. 203. SANDWICHES.
1. ROLLED SANDWICHES FILLED WITH STRIPS OF CELERY.
2. HEART-SHAPED SANDWICHES FILLED WITH CHOPPED GREEN PEPPERS AND MAYONNAISE.
3. HAM SANDWICHES CUT TO THE SHAPE OF PLAYING-CARDS AND DECORATED WITH\
PICKLED BEETS TO IMITATE THE THREE AND FOUR SPOTS OF HEARTS AND CLUBS.
4. CHICKEN SANDWICHES STAMPED WITH CLUB- AND SPADE-SHAPED CUTTERS.
Nos. 3 and 4 are novelties to serve at card-parties.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 203.
SANDWICHES.
1. ROLLED SANDWICHES FILLED WITH STRIPS OF CELERY.
2. HEART-SHAPED SANDWICHES FILLED WITH CHOPPED GREEN PEPPERS AND MAYONNAISE.
3. HAM SANDWICHES CUT TO THE SHAPE OF PLAYING-CARDS AND DECORATED WITH
PICKLED BEETS TO IMITATE THE THREE AND FOUR SPOTS OF HEARTS AND CLUBS.
4. CHICKEN SANDWICHES STAMPED WITH CLUB- AND SPADE-SHAPED CUTTERS.
Nos. 3 and 4 are novelties to serve at card-parties.]
.sp 2
.if-
.if h
.il fn=fig-204.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 204. SANDWICHES OF VARIOUS SHAPES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 204. SANDWICHES OF VARIOUS SHAPES.]
.sp 2
.if-
// 324.png
// 325.png
// 323.png
.pn +1
Sandwiches prepared for a traveler’s luncheon should be
made a little thicker and larger than directed above, as they
must be hearty enough to constitute a meal. If wrapped in
paraffin paper, they will keep fresh for a long time.
.if h
.il fn=fig-205.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 205. TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 205. TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES
Make a filling of grated cheese, toast the sandwiches on
both sides, and serve them hot.
Many kinds of sandwiches may be toasted. Sandwiches
left over may be utilized in this way.
.if h
.il fn=fig-206.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 206. LOAF OF BRIOCHE.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 206. LOAF OF BRIOCHE.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
BRIOCHE
Brioche is a light bun. The mixture is also used for savarins
and babas. See page #147#.
Make a leaven as follows:
Add to a cupful of tepid milk a yeast-cake and half a
pound of flour. Mix it well and set it in a warm place to rise
until it is very light. It will take about an hour.
Sift on to a rolling-board one pound of flour, and make
a well in the center. Break seven eggs into a bowl, add a
teaspoonful of salt, and beat the eggs enough to break them
thoroughly. Cut three quarters of a pound of butter into
pieces.
Put three tablespoonfuls of milk and two tablespoonfuls
of sugar into the well of flour, add a piece of butter and some
of the broken eggs. Work all these together with the hand,
incorporating the flour gradually. Add the eggs and butter
gradually until all are worked in, and continue the working
for some time, then add the leaven and work the whole mixture
for a long time, or until it does not stick. Set it aside
to rise and double in size, work it again, and put it in the
ice-box for twelve hours.
// 326.png
.pn +1
.sp 2
.h3
TO MAKE A LOAF OF BRIOCHE
Mold the brioche dough into a round ball. Place it in a
pan, make a depression in the top with the hand, brush it
with egg diluted with a little milk, and put into it a small
ball of dough. Cut slits around the large ball. Let it rise,
then bake it in a hot oven.
.if h
.il fn=fig-207.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 207. CORNMEAL MUFFINS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 207. CORNMEAL MUFFINS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.h3
CORN-MUFFINS
.in 6
.nf l
1¼ cupfuls of white flour,
1¼ cupfuls of yellow meal,
½ cupful of sugar,
2 cupfuls of milk,
2 tablespoonfuls of butter,
½ tablespoonful of salt,
2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder,
2 eggs.
.nf-
.in 0
Put a cupful of milk in a saucepan on the fire and let it
come to the scalding-point, then stir in the cornmeal, and
continue to stir until the meal is thoroughly expanded. If
a coarse meal is used, it should cook for a few minutes to
destroy the grainy texture. Remove the meal from, the fire
and stir into it the butter and the sugar. Let it stand until
cool, then add the rest of the milk, the eggs, which have been
beaten (yolks and whites together), the salt, and lastly the
flour, which has been thoroughly mixed with the baking-powder
by sifting. Stir the mixture to smoothness and turn
it into well-buttered gem-pans. Bake in a moderate oven for
about forty-five minutes.
cornmeal should be thoroughly cooked, and the baking
can be continued until the muffins draw away from the sides
of the pans. The baking should be slow at first, so the
muffins will rise evenly, giving a flat top. This quantity of
mixture will make one dozen large muffins.
// 327.png
// 328.png
// 329.png
.pn +1
The receipt may be modified by using less sugar or less
butter, or by changing the proportions of meal and flour.
.if h
.il fn=fig-208.jpg w=600px
.ca
NO. 208. CHEESE-CRACKERS.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
.sp 2
[Illustration: NO. 208. CHEESE-CRACKERS.]
.sp 2
.if-
.sp 2
.h3
CHEESE-CRACKERS
Spread any biscuits with butter, and put them in the oven
to brown slightly. As soon as they are removed from the
oven cover them with grated cheese, let them stand a few
minutes, then shake off all the cheese that does not stick.
Saltine biscuits are especially good to use with cheese.
// 330.png
// 331.png
.pn +1
.pn +1 // blank pages sometimes included in pagination
.sp 2
.pb
.sp 4
.nf c
INDEX
.nf-
// 332.png
.sp 4
.pb
// 333.png
.pn +1
.pn +1 // blank pages sometimes included in pagination
.sp 4
.h2 id=index
INDEX
.sp 2
.ix
A
Anchovy canapés, #41#
Eggs, #40#
Apple and celery salad, #121#
Apple pudding, jellied, #146#
Apple salad, individual, #122#
Apples, baked, #141#
Richelieu, #140#
Stewed, No. 1, #140#
No. 2, #141#
Apricots, compote of, #142#
Water-ice, #170#
Aspic of chicken, #125#
Of pâté de foie gras, #126#
Of vegetables, #120#
B
Babas, #147#
Baked apples, #141#
Bananas, #138#
Fillets of fish with sauce, #66#
Hominy, #96#
Mushrooms, #79#
Quinces, #138#
Sweetbreads, #73#
Tomatoes and fontage cups, #81#
Bananas, baked, No. 1, #138#
No. 2, #138#
And cream, #143#
Sautéd, #138#
Bavarian cream sliced and garnished with cream-cakes, #153#
Bean croquettes, #98#
Beaten omelet, #52#
Beef consommé, #45#
Casserole, #85#
Boiled ham, No. 1, #128#
No. 2, #128#
Icing, #192#
Lettuce, #96#
Boned ham, #129#
Braids, #203#
Brandy peaches, #109#
Bread braids, #203#
Bread and butter, checkered, #204#
Sandwiches, brown and white combined, #205#
Sandwiches in circles with nuts, #205#
Sandwiches, remarks about, #205#
Striped, #204#
Bread-cutter, #202#
Bread and jam tartlets, #143#
Pulled, #202#
Round loaf of, #201#
Stirred, #199#
Twists, #203#
Unleavened, #201#
Water, #200#
Whole wheat, #200#
Brioche, #209#
// 334.png
.pn +1
Brioche, loaf of, #210#
Remarks about, #209#
To make, #209#
Broiled lobster, #63#
Quails, #115#
Shad roe, #64#
Smelts, #64#
Tomatoes, #97#
Browned sauce, #102#
Burning cherries, #140#
Peaches, #140#
Butter, maître d’hôtel, #104:fig-048#
Ways of preparing, #31#
Icing, #94#
C
Cabbage salad, #122#
Café Frappé, #171#
Cake, cocoanut, #182#
Cake-basket holding meringue mushrooms, #185#
Cake, chocolate, #182#
Decorated in two shades of white, #184#
With candied rose-leaves, #185#
With pink bow-knot, #184#
With tutti frutti icing, #195#
With candied violets, #185#
Gingerbread, #179#
With chocolate glaze, #179#
With icing and preserved ginger, #180#
With whipped cream, #180#
Jelly-roll, #185#
Orange, in crescents, #181#
In layers, #181#
No. 2, or plain cup, #181#
Strawberry, No. 1, #162#
No. 2, #162#
Cakes, cream, how to make, #188#
Iced, #189#
Cakes, cherry, #187#
Cup, #181#
Decorated with flower design, #186#
Daisy, #186#
Domino, #187#
Hemispheres, #187#
Marble, #187#
Meringue mushrooms, #189#
Meringues, cocoanut, #190#
Pastry fingers, #191#
With medallion of fruit, #186#
Calf’s brains à l’aurore, #75#
À la poulette, #75#
To prepare, #75#
With black butter, #76#
With hollandaise, #76#
Canapés, anchovy, #41#
Of caviare, #41#
Of salmon, #40#
Caramel icing, #193#
Casserole of beef, #85#
Of chicken, No. 1, #99#
No. 2, #99#
Celery, cream of, #48#
Sandwiches, #207#
Charlotte russe, strawberry, No. 1, #150#
No. 2, #150#
Checkered bread and butter, #204#
Cheese-crackers, #211#
Cheese, cream, with Bar-le-duc currants, #131#
Croquettes, #109#
Patties, #110#
Sandwiches, toasted, #209#
Cherries, #176#
Burning, #140#
Cherry-cakes, #187#
Chestnut bavarian, #149#
Purée, #148#
// 335.png
.pn +1
Chestnut salad, #124#
Chicken aspic, #125#
Casserole, #99#
Consommé, #46#
En surprise, #101#
Fried in cream, #100#
Joints, #100#
Mousse, #126#
Salad, #123#
Smothered, #100#
Timbales, #77#
Chocolate bread pudding, #136#
Cake, #182#
Cream, #153#
Icing, #194#
Sauce for ice cream, #167#
Sponge, #153#
Clam broth, #46#
Bisque, #46#
Cocktails, #39#
Clams, cream of, #47#
On the half shell, #41#
Cocoanut-cake, #182#
Cocoanut cream-cake, #183#
Meringues, #190#
Pie, #160#
Pudding, #136#
Coffee mousse, #147#
Cold cut meats, #127#
Cold fish, garnished, #129#
Halibut, #191#
Cornmeal muffins, #210#
Cold dishes, #20#
Service, #125#
Slaw, #61#
Compote of apricots, #142#
Of figs, #142#
Of pears, #142#
Consommé of beef, #45#
Of chicken, #46#
Coquilles of sweetbreads, #74#
Cornstarch puddings, #144#
Cottage pie, #90#
Cranberry pie, #160#
Cream-cakes, #188#
How to make, #188#
Iced, #189#
Little, with caramel icing, #189#
With jam and whipped cream, #189#
Cream cheese with Bar-le-duc currants, #131#
Dressing, #116#
Cream of celery, #48#
Of clams, #47#
Of oysters, #47#
Of spinach, #48#
Creamed egg baskets, #54#
Fish garnished with potatoes, #67#
Lobster, #63#
Poached eggs, #54#
Croquettes, #76#
Of beans, #98#
Of cheese, #109#
Of farina, #135#
Of shad roe, #64#
Crystal icing, #193#
Cup-cake, #181#
Cup-cakes with flower design, #186#
Currant pie, #160#
Shortcake, #162#
Currants, #38#
Frosted, #38#
On individual plates, #38#
D
Daisy cakes, #186#
Dinner rolls, #203#
Dishing and garnishing, #7#
Domino cakes, #187#
Dressing, cream, #116#
// 336.png
.pn +1
Dressing, French, #115#
Mayonnaise, #116#
E
Eggs, anchovy, #40#
À l’aurore, #57#
À la Romaine, #53#
Baked in green peppers, #53#
In tomatoes, #53#
Farci, No. 1, #56#
No. 2, #56#
In nests, #55#
Poached and creamed, #54#
Remarks about, #51#
Scrambled with tomatoes, #54#
Spanish, #56#
To poach, #51#
In French style, #51#
To scramble, #51#
With giblet sauce, #57#
Entrées, #69#
F
Farina croquettes, #135#
Fig pudding, #136#
Figs, compote of, #142#
Fillets of beef, remarks about, #85#
With tomatoes, #86#
And mushrooms, #87#
Fillets of fish, baked, #66#
Fried, #65#
Remarks about, #65#
With mushrooms, #67#
Fillets of flounder, #65#
Fillings for sandwiches, #207#
Fish à la Japonnaise, #67#
Cold, #129#
Creamed and garnished with potatoes, #67#
Cutlets, cold, #130#
Halibut, cold, #131#
In the garden, #130#
Fontage cups, #30#
Forcemeat, #101#
Frangipane tartlets, #158#
French dressing, #115#
Omelet, #52#
Fried fillets of fish, #65#
Oysters with cold slaw, #61#
Scallops, #62#
Frosted currants, #38#
Frozen punches, #109#
Fruit soufflés, #139#
Tartlets, #159#
Fruits, cherries, #176#
Currants, #38#
Pears, #176#
Pineapples, #175#
Salpicon of, #37#
G
Galettes, #190#
Garnishing, #7#
Garnished cold fish, #129#
Gingerbread with chocolate glaze, #179#
With icing and preserved ginger, #180#
With whipped cream, #180#
Glaze, #104#
Glazed tongue, #127#
Gnocchi à la Française, #111#
À l’Italienne, #110#
À la Romaine, #110#
Grape-fruit in glasses, #37#
Green-gage pudding, #137#
Green pepper sandwiches, #208#
H
Ham, boiled, #128#
Boned, #129#
And eggs, minced, #92#
// 337.png
.pn +1
Hard sauce, #105#
Hemisphere cakes, #187#
Hollandaise sauce, #103#
Horseradish sauce, #88#
Huckleberry pudding, #135#
I
Ice cream, peach, #169#
Melon, #168#
Plain, #167#
Strawberry, #168#
Icing, boiled, #192#
Butter, #194#
Caramel, #193#
Chocolate, #194#
Confectioners’ sugar, #191#
Orange, #191#
Pink, #192#
Pistache, #192#
Wine, #192#
Yellow, #191#
Crystal, #193#
Mocha cream, #194#
Powdered sugar, #193#
Tutti frutti, #195#
Whipped cream, #193#
With maple sugar, #193#
Individual currants, #38#
Pineapple, #38#
J
Jalousies, #159#
Jam tart, #157#
Jardinière, #81#
Jellied cutlets, #130#
Jelly-roll, #185#
L
Lace toast, #202#
Leg of mutton à la jardinière, #89#
Slices à la jardinière, #90#
Lemon water-ice, #169#
Lettuce, boiled, #96#
And nasturtium salad, #118#
Sandwiches, #206#
Liquid sauces, #105#
Liver loaf or timbale, #127#
Timbales, #78#
Lobster, broiled, #63#
Creamed, #63#
M
Macedoine water-ice, #171#
Maître d’hôtel butter, #103#
Maple icing, #193#
Sauce for ice cream, #168#
Marble cakes, #187#
Mayonnaise dressing, #116#
Measures and terms, #32#
Meat and potato pie, #91#
Sauces, #102#
Meats, cold, #127#
Medallion cakes, #186#
Melon ice cream, #168#
Meringue cream tart, #152#
Crown, #152#
Mushrooms, #189#
Ring, #151#
Meringues filled with whipped cream or ice cream, #153#
How to make, #150#
Minced ham and eggs, #92#
Meat with potato rings, #91#
Mocha cream icing, #194#
Motto sandwiches, #206#
Mousse, chicken, #126#
Coffee, #147#
Peach, #148#
Muffins, cornmeal, #210#
Mushrooms, baked, #79#
Of meringue, #189#
Stuffed, #79#
// 338.png
.pn +1
Muskmelon, #39#
Mutton chops à la soubise, #87#
Boned, with artichokes, #88#
With mushrooms, #89#
With horseradish sauce, #88#
O
Omelet, beaten, #52#
Chasseur, #53#
Plain French, #52#
Orange-cake in crescents, #181#
In layers, #181#
Orange icing, #191#
Water-ice, #170#
Oranges, #37#
Oyster cocktails, #39#
Oysters à la Newburg, #62#
Cream of, #47#
Fried, with cold slaw, #61#
On the half shell, #41#
Sautéd, #61#
P
Panned chicken, #100#
Pastry-bag, #30#
Pastry fingers, #191#
Burning, #140#
Peaches, brandy, #109#
And cream, #143#
Peach ice cream, #169#
Mousse, #148#
Pudding, #145#
Pears, #176#
Compote of, #142#
Pie, cottage, #90#
Cranberry, #160#
Currant, #160#
Meat and potato, #91#
Pineapple, Nos. #1#, #2#, #3#, #4#, #175#
Individual, #38#
Pudding, #146#
Water-ice, #170#
Pine cones, #144#
Pink icing, #192#
Pistache icing, #192#
Plain French omelet, #52#
Playing-card sandwiches, #208#
Poached eggs, #51#
In French style, #51#
With greens, #55#
Pork tenderloins with fried apples, #94#
Potato purée, #95#
Straws, #28#
Salad, #123#
Potatoes, baked, #95#
Mashed, #27#
Puffed, #28#
Pudding, chocolate bread, #136#
Cocoanut, #136#
Cornstarch, #144#
Fig, #136#
Green-gage, #137#
Huckleberry, #135#
Jellied apple, #146#
Peach, #145#
Pineapple, #146#
Sauces, #105#
Tapioca, #145#
With prunes, #137#
Puff-paste, how to make, #154#
Pulled bread, #202#
Punches, #109#
Purée of chestnuts, #148#
Q
Quails, broiled, #115#
Roasted, #115#
Quenelles of cornmeal, #96#
Quinces, baked, #138#
// 339.png
.pn +1
R
Remarks about bread and butter sandwiches, #205#
Brioche, #209#
Fillets of fish, #65#
Sandwiches, #208#
Scallops, #62#
Soups, #45#
Rice à la Milanese, #95#
Rice prune pudding, #146#
Rissoles, #71#
Roasted quails, #115#
Rolled fillets of flounder, #65#
Sandwiches, #206#
Rolls, luncheon, #203#
Swiss, #203#
S
Salad, artichoke bottoms, #119#
Asparagus tips, #119#
Bouquet, #118#
Lettuce and tomato and eggs, #119#
Cabbage, #122#
Celery and apple, #121#
Chestnut, #124#
Chicken, #123#
Cucumber and tomato, #120#
Daisy, #119#
Dressing, cream, #116#
French, #115#
Mayonnaise, #116#
Fruits, #124#
Lettuce and hard boiled egg, #118#
Lettuce hearts, #118#
Mashed potato, #123#
Plain lettuce, #117#
Preparing, #116#
Remarks about, #117#
Shad roe, #123#
Tomato and green pepper, #121#
Turnip cups with celery, #121#
Vegetable, #120#
Salpicon, #72#
Of fruits in glasses, #37#
On glass plate, #37#
Sandwiches, bread and butter, #205#
Brown and white bread, #205#
Celery, #207#
Fillings for, #207#
Green pepper, #208#
In circles with nuts, #205#
Lettuce, #206#
Playing-card, #208#
Remarks about, #205#
Rolled or motto, #206#
Toasted cheese, #209#
Sauce, brown, #102#
Hollandaise, #103#
Horseradish, #88#
Hot chocolate, #167#
Hot maple, #168#
Maître d’hôtel, #103#
Soubise, #87#
Supreme, #102#
Tomato purée, #103#
White, #102#
Sautéd bananas, #138#
Oysters, #61#
Savarins, #147#
Scallops, fried, #62#
Remarks about, #62#
On the shell, #63#
Scotch oat-cakes, #202#
Scrambled eggs with brains, #58#
With tomato, #54#
Shad roe, broiled, #64#
Croquettes, #64#
Salad, #123#
// 340.png
.pn +1
Shortcake, currant, #162#
Smelts, broiled, #64#
Smothered chicken, #100#
Soubise sauce, #87#
Soufflés, fruit and others, #139#
Remarks about, #139#
Strawberry, #139#
Soups, remarks about, #45#
Spanish eggs, #56#
Spinach, #97#
Cream of, #48#
Squabs, #115#
Stewed apples, #140#
Strawberry bavarian, #150#
Ice cream, #168#
Soufflé, #139#
Tartlets, #158#
Water-ice, #170#
Strawberry-cake, #162#
Strawberries and cream, #143#
On individual plates, #38#
Striped bread and butter, #204#
Stuffed green peppers, #81#
Mushrooms, #79#
Tomatoes, #80#
Stuffing for tomatoes, #80#
Supreme sauce, #102#
Sweetbreads, baked, #73#
Coquilles of, #74#
Glazed, #74#
Remarks about, #73#
To prepare, #73#
Swiss rolls, #203#
T
Tapioca pudding, #145#
With prunes, #137#
Tart, jam, #157#
Tartlet shells, how to make, #157#
Tartlets, bread and jam, #143#
Frangipane, #158#
Fruit, #159#
Pine cones, #144#
Strawberry, #158#
Terms, #32#
Timbale of liver, cold, #127#
Timbales of chicken, #77#
Of liver, #78#
Tomato farci, #97#
And green pepper salad, #121#
Purée, #103#
Tomatoes, baked, and fontage cups, #81#
Broiled, #97#
Stuffed, #80#
Stuffing for, #80#
Tongue, glazed, #127#
Tutti frutti icing, #195#
Twists, #203#
U
Unleavened bread, #201#
V
Veal à l’Italienne, #93#
Chops, #92#
Cutlets, small, #93#
Grenadines of, #94#
Vegetable salad, #120#
Vegetables, aspic of, #120#
Vegetarian dish, #82#
Vol-au-vent, #71#
W
Water bread, #209#
Water-ice, apricot, #170#
// 341.png
.pn +1
Lemon, #169#
Macedoine, #171#
Orange, #170#
Pineapple, #170#
Strawberry, #170#
Water-ices in general, #169#
Whipped cream icing, #193#
White sauce, #102#
Whole wheat bread, #200#
Wine icing, #192#
Y
Yellow icing, 191
.ix-
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.ul
.it Transcriber’s Notes:
.ul indent=1
.it Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
.it Typographical errors were silently corrected.
.it Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a\
predominant form was found in this book.
.if t
.it Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_); text that was\
bold by “equal” signs (=bold=).
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