.dt Lloyd's Treatise On Hats, by Robert Lloyd—A Project \
Gutenberg eBook
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LLOYD’S || TREATISE ON HATS,
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WITH
TWENTY-FOUR ENGRAVINGS;
CONTAINING
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NOVEL DELINEATIONS OF HIS VARIOUS SHAPES, SHEWING
THE MANNER IN WHICH THEY SHOULD BE WORN, THE
SORT OF FACE AND PERSON BEST SUITED TO EACH
PARTICULAR HAT, AND RULES FOR THEIR PRESERVATION;
TO WHICH IS ADDED, THE WHOLE PROCESS OF
HAT-MAKING; TOGETHER WITH THE CUSTOMS AND
REGULATIONS OF JOURNEYMEN HATTERS, AND OTHER
USEFUL INFORMATION.
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Dedicated, with Permission, to the Head.
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SECOND EDITION.
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LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,
By F. Thorowgood, 9, Addle-Street, Aldermanbury.
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1819.
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.h2
PREFACE.
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To what trifles do some men owe a perpetuation
of their “famous memory.” There is
Nimrod, for instance, not but what he may have
had other and greater merits, yet he is
best known as a “mighty hunter,” and one
who “wore boots;” now, allowing the relation
to be true, and that he did hunt, and he did
wear boots, is there anything extraordinary
attaching to either, unless indeed, it could be
proved that he had wooden legs, or that he was
capable of sitting on the backs of two or more
animals at one time; and if such were not the
case, the simple fact of itself was never worth
recording; as well may it be said, a thousand
years hence, that LLOYD was a great Hatmaker,
and lived in a great City.
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But possibly the hunting system of this old
gentleman differed materially from the pastime
of our modern Tally-ho’s, and instead of running
after hares, snipes, and conies, Nimrod’s sport
was on the field of battle; in whose days the
most rational idea is, that all was game which
caused pursuits, and all pursuits hunting: If it
were not so, and his majesty’s capability only
extended to the riding upon a horse’s back,
there is not a butcher’s boy, in any country village
between Berwick and St. Ives, that would
not have ridden Nimrod’s rump off. But it may
be asked by those whose inclinations and patience
shall lead them to hunt through the following
pages, whether this is what it professes to
be, a Preface, which is supposed to explain, or
prepare the mind for something to come; the
answer to which is as follows: A horse that will
not go without another being led before him, is
not worth riding, and if what is herein written
requires a Preface to render it intelligible, it is
not worth the reading.
.ti 6
May, 1819.
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.h2
JOHN BULL.
.sp 2
The greatest difficulty a painter has professionally to
encounter is to produce a striking resemblance of a countenance
where there are no striking features: just so with
the Hat called “John Bull.” It has no marked style
of peculiarity in the formation; but, independent of the
fine texture, there is in it a combination of rare qualities
not often met with: for instance—it has in appearance
strong marks of becoming gravity—a bold but manly
dignity—a pleasing diffidence, with a conscious, yet unassuming
importance—and is recommended to persons
somewhat robust in form, features full and round, with a
complexion not too dark. In wearing, it should neither
be placed aside, thrown too far back, nor brought particularly
forward over the face, for the following reasons—the
first position would bespeak an air of non challance—the
second a sort of slovenly neglect in the person—and
the third an incommunicative sullenness of disposition.
.sp 2
.h2
THE WELLINGTON.
.sp 2
So called from the great Hero; not for the popularity
of the name alone, but for the reason that such a
Hat was actually worn by him; and, in fact, it is a shape
uncommonly well suited both to his face and person; the
.bn 005.png
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former being a sort of long oval, and the latter without
the least appearance of bulk: indeed a ponderous body,
tall or short, with a round, or what is vulgarly termed a
pudding face, cannot judiciously shelter itself under a
Wellington. This Hat is not only particularly becoming
the person of his Grace, but there is that in its appearance
which is strongly characteristic of his great mind;
for, to an excellently formed crown of about seven inches
deep, overspreading an inch at top, there is united a fine
arched brim of small dimensions, taking a smartish sweep
of the fourth part of a circle, and when placed on the
head somewhat a la Francais, carries with it an uncommon
degree of brilliancy and fire: and the fore and
hind parts terminating in a close point, clearly shows
that, whether advancing or retreating, this modern
Cæsar is always sure to carry his point.
.sp 2
.h2
THE TANDEM.
.sp 2
This is a Hat wherein is displayed a good deal of what
may be termed character; for which reason, its becoming
wearers, comparatively speaking, will be few in
number; but notwithstanding this marked peculiarity,
there is a sort of style in its general feature which is uncommonly
striking; nor is there any form whatever,
where so much of that airy lightness is to be seen, as in
the Tandem. Few persons over thirty become this
Hat, and none under twenty, and even between those
ages, if the head be more than twenty-two inches, or less
than twenty-one and a half in circumference, the
whole effect is destroyed. Shape of the face immaterial,
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provided the complexion is not too dingy; but, above all
things, neither overgrown or little fat gentlemen should
wear the Tandem. To have the best effect when on the
head, it should be placed rather forward, inclining a
little to one side.
.sp 2
.h2
THE TALLY-HO.
.sp 2
A very comfortable and convenient hunting Hat, partaking
in some degree the natural formation of the head:
has many advantages over the old fashioned cap; is light,
though strong—porous, which allows the heat of the
head, arising from exertion, to fly off—and elastic, the
effect of which is to sit close without pressure; but,
above all, it has a most gentlemanly appearance, which
it never fails to communicate to the wearer, particularly
if he be a true sportsman.
.sp 2
.h2
THE SHALLOW.
.sp 2
A Hat more admired for the ease and simplicity of
style than for any peculiar character in its general appearance;
being low in the crown, it is worn to most
advantage by tall thin gentlemen with very large heads;
and as the fore and hind part of the brim is set nearly
horizontal from the base of the crown, it has two great
advantages; the first of which is, that it may be conveniently
worn over a wig; and, secondly, if worn without, the
shirt collar is kept clean much longer than usual. This
Hat, to have its proper effect, should be placed on the
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head with a strict formality of set, which in many
persons will beget an air of importance. N. B. The
late Justice Addington generally wore a shallow.
.sp 2
.h2
THE COBURG.
.sp 2
For style and form has strong claims to favour; but,
being rather small in appearance, the wearer, to show
to most advantage, should be somewhat slender in his
make, features not too prominent, and in stature about
five feet five to five feet ten, but neither above nor below.
One great advantage attending this Hat is, that the shape
of the wearer’s nose is not at all material, provided it be
not of that class known by the term “bottled.” It may
be worn a little aside, but by no means placed too far on
the head, a failing very general among country gentlemen.
.sp 2
.h2
THE MARQUIS.
.sp 2
A well-proportioned Hat in every respect, and may,
not inaptly, be termed the Universal, as it becomes most
persons who wear it; in point of form, there is nothing
of what may be called character or singularity in its
appearance, and has the rare property of giving to the
wearer a sort of dignified affability, a courteous condescension,
together with an agreeable modesty, at least
in appearance. It is named after a certain nobleman,
who has all the above qualities united, although in the
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prime of life. To show to advantage on the head, this
Hat should not go lower than the tip of the ears, both of
which it may barely touch, unless the wearer has a short
neck, in that case it must be worn somewhat aside,
touching one ear only, but by no means to be thrown
back.
.sp 2
.h2
THE ECCENTRIC.
.sp 2
Unique in its way, strongly embodying the name in
its form. This Hat is particularly recommended to gentlemen
(and many are to be found) who hold their understandings
libelled by acting, thinking, speaking, or
dressing like other men; but, it must be observed, that
slender persons with dark countenances, and about the
middle size, best become these Hats: for, however
eccentric a man would wish to appear, by adopting any
peculiar mode of dress, he never can hope to succeed
unless nature has done a little for him; it follows then
of course, that a tall or short man, if he be stout and well
grown, with a fine open florid countenance, cannot cleverly
become an Eccentric; but an agreeable contorsion
of the eye, a trifling disagreement in the symmetry
of the shoulders, or a slight bias of the body right or
left, are indescribable advantages in giving full effect to
this Hat, which may be worn a little on one side, with
a gentle inclination over the eyes, unless they are playing
at cross purposes, in the event of which it must be
thrown quite back, to give effect to their playful
humour.
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.sp 2
.h2
THE REGENT.
.sp 2
A finely-formed and most decidedly elegant Hat: is
somewhat upon a large scale, the crown being upwards
of seven inches high, much yeoman, with an excellently
turned and corresponding brim, producing together a
happy union of the nicest proportions: It is worn to most
advantage by persons whose height and bulk are above
the common stature; not that it is meant to be understood,
that every athletic or robust form would become a
Regent; on the contrary, there is not a shape in the
whole catalogue that demands in the wearer a greater
share of external requisites than this; even the very
gait is concerned, which, to strike, should be stately and
firm, though easy, each step measuring exactly half the
length of the whole body—more would become an absolute
stride—and less a mere strut; than which nothing
can be farther removed from graceful carriage: Be it
understood, also, that the Regent is most becoming when
placed a little on the right side, but by no means to come
within half an inch of the ear—unless the latter should
exceed its fair dimensions—in that case it were best hid
altogether; but then, to do this, the Hat is forced beyond
the proper position, and what was intended as ornament,
becomes the very reverse: So circumstanced, the Noble
Lord, the Shallow, or the John Bull, might be worn to
most advantage; but when Nature has been a little attentive
to the minuter parts, as well as the greater proportions
of manly exterior, the Regent cannot fail to give
additional dignity to the wearer; creating thereby a combination
of elegancies that must render his appearance
absolutely IRRESISTIBLE.
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.sp 2
.h2
THE KENT.
.sp 2
A very gentlemanly Hat, and although there is not
the dignity of the Regent about it, there is, notwithstanding,
much to admire: Indeed, the scale of proportions
are very similar in both; the only real difference
existing in the crown, which is about one-half of an inch
lower than the latter; and, in the nautical phraseology,
may not inaptly be termed a Regent cut down. It is
very singular, and worth remarking, that trifling as the
Kent differs from the Regent in actual measurement,
the contrariety of effect, when on the head, is great and
striking; which unquestionably proves, that a very slight
deviation from a given rule will produce results more
opposed to each other than the deviation is to the rule
itself. The style in which this Hat should be worn is as
follows:—if the head be of an oval form, place it thereon,
as near as possible, in an horizontal position; but if a
round head (which of all descriptions is most dreaded by
a castermonger) let the Hat be thrown a little back,
with a slight inclination on the side most agreeable, which
will tend to prevent its assuming that trencher-like appearance
too common from such causes. The personal
requisites suitable to the Kent, may be found on referring
to the Cobourg; with this difference, that, as the brim
is of larger dimensions, the wearer, if he pleases, may be
six feet high.
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.sp 2
.h2
THE CUMBERLAND.
.sp 2
This Hat, in outline and symmetry, is highly
prepossessing, and will always have a number of admirers. The
formation, dimensions, and style of the brim, are similar to the
Regent and the Kent; but the crown is taper and much
shallower than either. It should be worn as nearly
horizontal as possible; and, if the wearer be of the middle
stature, or above, his bulk or countenance
is immaterial.
.sp 2
.h2
THE VIS-A-VIS.
.sp 2
A remarkably STYLISH HAT, possessing great and
peculiar advantages over most others, on which account
its claims to patronage are of the highest order. The
brim, before as well as behind, being brought down quite
square, and almost in a perpendicular line with the crown
itself, gives the wearer an opportunity of observing things
en passant, by a sort of side-glance, without being seen
so to do; thus, it is well adapted for gentlemen who
would fain indulge in the most exquisite admiration of
the beauteous fair: but by reason of their extreme modesty,
shrink from the trial: There is, also, another and
a very important consideration, which cannot be allowed
to pass unnoticed—it is a well-known truth, that there
are certain situations in life where the falling into
is not at all times to be avoided; the result of which
is, to create in the imagination, a perpetual apprehension
lest some villainous intruder should, in defiance of
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eloquence or inclination, compel the acceptance of his
official or rather officious attendance: to counteract so
dirty a custom, as well as to nip the system in the very
bud, this Hat is most admirably contrived—for by a
simple elevation of the hinder part, the front may be
brought so far over the face, as to form a complete shade
for the countenance. Here then is the attainment of two
great ends—modesty encouraged, and impertinence restrained.
Lastly, and not the least of its useful purposes
is, that should the introduction of the Vis-a-Vis become
general, those novel and graceful evolutions of the body,
denominated the bend, the flutter, and the poke, may
be performed in a much smaller space than usual, and
without the least danger to the eyes, which is greatly to
be feared, when the distinguished votaries, in the eager
performance of these newly-imported civilities, are
brought too abruptly face to face.
Although there is much of the dash in this Hat, it has,
notwithstanding, a sort of sombre appearance, which calls
on the wearer for a figure and countenance to correspond;
it is therefore, if ornamentally considered, recommended
to such only, whose complexion is of a
darkish hue, visage long, not over bulky in person, and
above the middle size; but, if usefully considered, all the
nicer distinctions must yield to imperious necessity.
.sp 2
.h2
THE PETERSHAM.
.sp 2
A connoisseur examining a fine painting, was asked by
a bye-stander, which part he most admired; his answer
was, “no part.” “What!” observed the other, “is it
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possible that so highly talented a production as this is acknowledged
to be, can have no merits in your estimation?”
To which the connoisseur replied—“Sir, a work
so masterly in execution—so striking in effect—so perfect
in all its parts, cannot be truly estimated but as a
whole.” Here, then, the picture is the Petersham—the
selection of beauties therein, the difficulty: To get
rid of which, be it sufficient to state, that the prominent
feature in this Hat is elegance of style, strongly visible
in all its parts, and each part in unison with the whole;
which for tonish and exquisite dash has no competitor.
It will be seen, from what is here stated, that, much as
this Hat is capable of transfusing its graces to the wearer
(and who can doubt it), some little attention to personal
requisites is necessary—which, in stature, should be over
five feet seven, and not too lusty; countenance or complexion
is of little consequence; but the visage should be
oval, such corresponding uncommonly well with the fine
arched brim, which forms nearly two-fifths of a circle;
and, when tastefully placed on the head, with a slight
inclination over the face, so as to bring the fore point on
a line with the tip of the nose, such will be the result,
that, whatever difficulty may attend a just description of
its astonishing effects, the advantages to a wearer will
most assuredly be FELT.
.sp 2
.h2
THE TILBURY.
.sp 2
This Hat is bold in appearance, but full of
character: Indeed, there is so much of the whip in
its general outline, that it can never, with propriety, be worn
but as a driving Hat.
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.sp 2
.h2
THE BANG-UP.
.sp 2
What a pleasing reflection it is, all things considered,
that near as the human form may approach to perfection,
still that form is capable of being improved by ingenuity;
but then, the difficulty is to decide on what
really are improvements: for instance, some will admire
a fine slope in the coat skirts, tapering off like the
tail of a goose; some (whether or no to catch the manners
of a hoyden) will put on the frock; others, again,
admire the pantaloon; and many give a decided preference
to inexpressibles. But the Bang-up, as a Hat,
is the very master-piece of inventive taste, wherein all
admiration must of necessity centre, having not only in
its general appearance a bold and manly front, but a
pleasing harmony of parts, all tending to produce an
agreeable union of taste and utility; who then would
mount the “box” without being decorated with its
chiefest ornament?
.sp 2
.h2
THE CLERICUS.
.sp 2
A very contemplative, sedate, pious-looking
Hat, much worn by Police-Officers, Quack-Doctors,
and Clergymen; this, it may be said, is a strange assemblage
of characters to bring under one head, and some
may hold the association to be a reflection on the latter,
when in truth the very opposite is intended; in proof of
which it is only necessary to observe that, where the
attainment of an object depends on outward show, such
contrivances will be resorted to as are best calculated to
secure the object in view; and the very assumption of
.bn 015.png
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the habit here spoken of by the “traps” and “quacks”
of the day, is evidence of the habit itself being in the highest
possible estimation. If taken in an ornamental point
of view, it would be no easy task to decide on its merits;
but if usefully considered, the conclusion is plain and
easy. It is an admitted fact, that an idea of dignity cannot
embody itself with little things, hence the custom
of wearing large wigs, for such doubtless these Hats
were originally intended, and for this reason, the hinder
part being drawn up with loops in two places, no peruke,
however large its dimensions, can receive the least injury;
in short, it may be worn under this Hat with as
little discomfiture to the intricate friz as though it were
absolutely on the very block itself: here then is produced
what may be termed a happy union of wisdom and piety,
inasmuch as it is allowed, when speaking of high legal
characters, that the wisdom is in the wig, and by the
same rule (when Clericus is worn by a Divine) the piety
must be in the Hat. The style of putting on will greatly
depend on the size of the peruke, without which it
should never be worn, particularly if the hair be lank
and black.
.sp 2
.h2
THE BON-TON.
.sp 2
In point of form and fine proportions, this Hat cannot
fail to rank high in general estimation. Its appearance
very much resembles the Wellington, or rather it is between
the Wellington and the Marquis; and, like the
latter, there is that becoming style, which not only harmonizes,
but gives a peculiar grace to the majority of
its wearers.
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.sp 2
.h2
THE BARONET.
.sp 2
This is a Hat highly respectable in appearance, and
well suited to gentlemen in the decline of life; but as
that is a state to which few will acknowledge while there
is a capability of hobbling without a crutch, something
definite had better be stated by giving the precise age;—take
it then at fifty, which will put all doubts at rest.
The reason for fixing on the Baronet, as suitable to those
in declining years, is its grave, reflecting, methodical
cast, such as would seem to say of the wearer—“Here
is one that possesses a serenity of mind, an easy indifference
of disposition, a tranquillity of thought, which
would quietly disentangle itself from the vain, shadowy,
fleeting desires of this life, and leave no regret behind.”
There are many other recommendatory properties in this
Hat, but those already particularized are the most valuable;
yes, valuable,—for it is a well-known fact, that
mankind are often made up of contrivance, that is, they
frequently give to appearance the shape of reality;—and
however strange the doctrine may at first appear, it
is nevertheless true, that the custom is often attended
with very beneficial results, inasmuch as by endeavouring
to maintain an apparent consistency between habit
and action, the propriety of doing right becomes so
strongly impressed on the mind, that the villainy of a bad
practice is seen in its worst deformity, and conscience,
the unerring monitor of the mind, rides triumphant over
all. These are recommendations of no ordinary nature,
and such that will no doubt cause much inquiry after the
Baronet. As to growth or countenance, there is an old
saying, that “beggars should not be choosers;” and the
wearer, if he becomes so from necessity, will feel the
propriety of leaving choice out of the question.
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Engraved for Lloyd’s treatise on Hats.
John Bull. The Cobourg. The Baron. Clericus. The New Dash. The Shallow.
The Cumberland. The Viz-a-viz. The Eccentric. The Wellington. A Noble Lord. The Tandem.
The Marquis. The Tally-ho. The Bang-up. Baronet. The Paris Beau. The Bon Ton.
A bit of Blood. The Jolliffe. The Dandy. The Regent. The Irresistible. The Petersham.
Designed by R. Lloyd, Hat Maker, No. 92, Newgate-Street.
.ca-
.if-
.if t
[Illustration:
Engraved for Lloyd’s treatise on Hats.
John Bull. The Cobourg. The Baron. Clericus. The New Dash. The Shallow.
The Cumberland. The Viz-a-viz. The Eccentric. The Wellington. A
Noble Lord. The Tandem.
The Marquis. The Tally-ho. The Bang-up. Baronet. The Paris Beau.
The Bon Ton.
A bit of Blood. The Jolliffe. The Dandy. The Regent. The
Irresistible. The Petersham.
Designed by R. Lloyd, Hat Maker, No. 92, Newgate-Street.]
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.h2
THE JOLLIFFE.
.sp 2
A mind which is struck, through the medium of sight,
with impressions of sublimity, will have those impressions
strengthened in proportion as the magnitude of the object
viewed is the greater, and as all things are but great
or small comparatively, it follows, of course, that bodies
of the same class, description, or affinity, which are
less than the largest, must suffer, when brought into
the scale of comparison with their superiors: agreeably
to these rules, the Jolliffe, whose dimensions exceed
all others, comes forward with strong claims to patronage,
for besides the importance with which it never fails
to strike every beholder, it is sure to convey a corresponding
importance to the WEARER. Here then are
considerations which should not be trifled with, particularly
as the assumption of a thing is often taken
for the thing itself—nay, are there not situations in life
where appearances become so vitally important that
it would be little short of criminality not to put them
on? and where the attainment of great ends may be
insured by nothing more than a simple attention to the
formation of a Hat, it would be worse than folly to
neglect the means. Rightly taken, what a multiplicity
of persons might be benefitted by the above hints; Princes,
Peers, and Plenipotentiaries; Senators, State-ministers,
or Trading Politicians;—all—all may find their interest
in the adoption of the Jolliffe; and that these great
personages may not plead ignorance as to the manner
in which it should be worn with the best effect, here
follow the proper instructions.
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If a Prince, let it be lightly placed on the head, and
a little aside, which bespeaks a sort of cheerful approving
confidence in one’s own actions.—If a Peer, it
should be worn in a firm horizontal position, just covering
half the forehead; which gives the appearance of a
wise and steady determination where great questions are
agitated, particularly when they become self interesting.—If
an Ambassador, it may be thrown a little
back, inclining somewhat aside; such position indicating
a bold and careless indifference to all around, which will
be taken for granted that such could not arise from any
other cause than a total disregard for the result of his
mission; a practice, although not often hit on, may have
many advantages. As to the three latter characters, their
pursuits having all the same end—POPULARITY—let
them consult the style of the Prince, and remember
that, in whomsoever confidence has credit, popularity is
sure to follow.
.hr 20%
⸪ As the Jolliffe is not likely to be worn unless for
special purposes, to give an idea who would best
become it is unnecessary.
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.h2
THE FOUR-IN-HAND.
.pm verse-start
A modern-styled whip,
Howe’er he may dip
Into fashion’s wide vortex his pinions,
To make a bold stand,
Lloyd’s prime Four-in-Hand
Must cover his upper dominions.
For ease, form, and set,
The like never yet
Was seen, at least so run opinions;
Then ye four-in-hand whips,
In your jarvey-like trips
Take care of your upper dominions.
.pm verse-end
.nf c
DIMENSIONS.
.nf-
.pm verse-start
It measures, by rule,
Near three inches full
In the brim, with a crown wide at top;
Nor is there a face
But what it will grace,
If purchased at Lloyd’s fancy shop.
.pm verse-end
.sp 4
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.h2
A BIT OF BLOOD.
.sp 2
The term itself naturally implies a something upon
a small scale, which is the fact, and although there
is nothing of that imposing dignity of style in the above
Hat, which characterizes the Regent, the Petersham,
&c. there is a lively, animated, and vigorous fire in
all its features, that will not allow of any falling off in
the general comparison. To give a complete catalogue
of the many VIRTUES belonging to a bit of blood, would
exceed the allotted limits; but it cannot be amiss to
detail a few of the more prominent, that all, whose
necessities may bear to the point, should be benefitted
by the wearing: First then, it is admirably calculated
for those who are about to ask favors, such being more
readily granted when they seem the less wanted, and
no one could suppose that the saucy animation which
would be so strongly visible under this Hat could make
the application from NECESSITY. Secondly, it will be
of singular advantage to elderly gentlemen in pursuit
of young wives, who nine times in ten decide on the
choice of a man from the cock—of his Hat. Thirdly,
(not that there is much need of it for such a purpose
now-a-days) its advantages for those that are tormented
with dunns are incalculable, for, by being placed pretty
firm on the head, inclining rather to one side, at the
same time assuming a sharp erect position of the body,
a stern direction of the eye, and arms a-kimbo, the devil
himself, in the shape of a creditor, would hardly hazard
the REPETITION OF A VISIT.
N. B. No service to gentlemen of the learned
profession.
.bn 023.png
.pn +1
.pb
.sp 4
.h2
THE || PROCESS || OF || \
HAT-MAKING || EXPLAINED, || WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, \
&c. &c.
.hr 10%
.sp 2
Turks are said to assign as a reason for not wearing
Hats, that they are put together by witchcraft. There is
certainly a great deal of ingenuity in the practice, and
some effects produced whose causes are as yet unexplained:
but, with all due deference to these turban gentlemen,
it is presumed that they have objections beyond what is
above stated, some of which are as follows:—First, their
country is destitute of the most essential material—FUR.
Second, the climate being extremely sultry, stoves, irons,
and scalding water are not likely to become favourites.
Thirdly, being compelled by their religion to keep their
heads close shaved, a Hat, above all human inventions,
would be the most ridiculous covering they could adopt.
There are many opinions as to the time Hats were
first invented, and, very probably, all equally erroneous.
Some carry the date as far back as the foundation of
Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of whom
it is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair
or fur between them and his sandals, in which situation
.bn 024.png
.pn +1
friction and moisture caused such an interweaving of
particles, that the whole became strongly united, or
(technically called) FELTED. Whether the story, as
applied to Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that
such did happen with some one, is very likely; nor is it
at all unlikely, but that an occurrence of this kind did
really give the first idea of Hat-making. Having remarked
thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what
is not the less true than surprising, which is, that of the
various branches of manufacture which this country is
so highly distinguished for, none are less understood than
Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty who,
if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat
was or was not a woven substance; nor is there one in
500 but what suppose that the skin of a hare or rabbit is
worked with the fur attached to it, as in the natural
state; and, to form a correct judgment of the external
material, when manufactured, Whether it be hair, wool,
or beaver, although many pretend, none are really competent
but those experienced in the trade.
To show the absurd notions some entertain on this
matter, I state as a fact, that I do not know a manufacturer
or seller in the trade but what has been applied to,
by some one or other, to have a Beaver Hat made from
a hare’s skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very
good customer, and a man not wanting for sense either,
by an involuntary burst of laughter, on his presenting
the skin of a French lap-dog for the very same purpose.
It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on
pretty good terms with their capabilities to give opinions
as to the merits or demerits of a Hat; which opinions
are as opposite to the true state of the case as the sun’s
.bn 025.png
.pn +1
rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance,
although a trifling one, of a very common error among
persons who suppose themselves to have a knowledge of
the subject, which is this, if the picker has not a very
good eye, some of the larger hairs will be left in the
Hat, and consequently the most visible; these are
directly termed “grey hairs,” when the truth is, that
they are the blackest in the whole composition; but
being thicker than the general mass, they receive a
greater portion of light, which is mistaken for a grey
colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull
one of these grey hairs from the Hat, and place it on a
piece of white paper, the contrast will decide the
question.
Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the NAP,
is said to be the effect of the stiffening; this is not true
in every case, for it is frequently owing to improper
management in placing the Hat, when wet, before a
large fire, which should never be done; the better way
is, if very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping,
and when dry it is easily put to rights, by gently passing
over a clothes brush: if only slightly wet, wipe it with a
handkerchief, and, when dry, it will brush clean. But
the great fault with most persons is to put on their Hats,
day after day, in the same dirty state as when taken off
at night; from which it is natural to infer, that there
must be a vast accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when
exposed to the rain, that forms a sort of cement, or
paste, having all the appearance of what is commonly
called “gum.”
Another proof of erroneous judgment—Profuse perspiration
of the head is what many are subject to; by
.bn 026.png
.pn +1
reason of which, from the frequency of wearing, and the
porosity of the Hat, there is a continual absorption of
moisture going on until it becomes completely saturated,
particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies
buried in a greasy matter, which matter is also, but
very inappropriately termed gum or stiffening, when in
point of fact it is neither, for the very same effect would,
under the like circumstances, be produced, and in much
less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best
remedy for this is a piece of thin flannel under the
leather, and that frequently changed.
There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe
exposure to rain on the first, second, or even third time
of wearing; for this reason, the materials wherewith it
is composed are in a manner quite green, and require
seasoning; to effect which it should be frequently put
on in dry weather. I have always found that a Hat,
constantly worn for five or six weeks without being wet,
underwent every sort of hardship afterwards with little
or no injury, retaining at the same time its beauty—form—and
wearing three times longer than it otherwise
would have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent
accidents, render the Hat water-proof? that is,
impervious to the action of either atmosphere or rain.
The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there is
a choice of only two evils, it is always best to select the
least. We all know (or should know) that if a man were
to enclose himself, arms, legs, and body, in what is called
an oil-skin dress, and that drawn close round the neck,
the whole tightly fitted to every part of his person as a Hat
is to the head, the most unpleasant consequences would
ensue; the cause why is obviously this, the exhalations
.bn 027.png
.pn +1
of the body, particularly in a state of exertion, would
when so enclosed, be either prevented from flying off, as
nature requires, or otherwise checked altogether; precisely
so with the head if the porosity of the Hat was
destroyed, which it must be to resist effectually the action
of water. This deduction must be so clear and self-evident
that further reasoning is unnecessary. Another
great objection against water-proof Hats is, that the ingredients
made use of for such purposes, when exposed
to the sun’s heat, are so acted upon as to cause a decomposition
of the colour, and nine times in ten, the Hat,
before it is half worn out, becomes any thing but what
it was meant to be.
It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications
a Hat is said to have, and each as opposite to the other
as it is possible for any two things to be; some, for
instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless it is light,
others again will decidedly condemn it for being so, insisting
that the chief recommendation is its being firm
and stout. All that is requisite to be observed on this,
is that weight has no more to do with the quality of a
Hat, than the situation of prime minister has to do with
the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may be
made equally light with the most superior, and in both
cases the cost of manufacture will be less than if they
were made stout.
The length of the beaver too is another point on which
the difference of opinion is often experienced; many are
for very short naps, declaring all others to be outrageously
vulgar; but the majority of wearers seem best
pleased with long naps, which always take and retain
the best black, while, on the contrary those that are
.bn 028.png
.pn +1
very short never do. A medium between the two is the
most preferable.
Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain
in what way a fine Hat is made, describing as
accurately as possible the various processes it undergoes,
as also the materials with which it is composed, the proportions
of each as well as the quantity of work a man is
capable of doing, whether maker or finisher, in a week,
the amount of wages, together with some of the curious
regulations, by-laws, &c. &c. &c.
In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention
a few of the implements by name, a short description of
them may not be amiss.
There is the BOW, which in form is not unlike what is
used for playing on a double bass, but in length and
thickness is equal to a constable’s staff; there is a bridge
at each end, from one to the other of which is tightly
strung a stout line of catgut.
The HURDLE is situate in what is called the bow garret,
and is a sort of table, on which the fur is bowed, or
mixed, having the farther end and sides enclosed to prevent
the material from being blown away.
The BATTERY is somewhat like the hopper of a mill,
in this is contained the hot liquor, and is mostly constructed
for eight men, round which they stand when
making; the lower part is lead, the upper or working
part mahogany. All batteries are formed into divisions
called PLANKS, one of which is allotted to each man.
There are many other little things used by makers, but
these three are all that deserve particular notice.
The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the
FUR, or raw material, which is furnished to him by
.bn 029.png
.pn +1
weight; the quantity being more or less, according to
the substance of the Hat required, and is in two parcels,
one of which contains the BEAVER, or napping; the other
the BODY (a proportionate scale of both will be seen
hereafter). Thus provided he takes it to the BOW
GARRET; the materials for the body are first placed on
the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for
support, is held in the left hand horizontally, so that the
catgut may come in contact with the fur; in the right
hand is placed a small piece of stick, with a nut at the
end, and in this position the work begins after the following
manner. The catgut of the bow (being first
placed in the midst of the fur) is pulled or struck with
the knotted stick, which produces, from a quick repetition
of the stroke, a continued vibration, this vibration
it is that causes a separation or flitting of the fur, at the
same time mixing and cleansing it. This operation is
continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next
divided into halves, one of which is laid aside, and the
other again bowed over. In this second operation the
workman contrives, partly by bowing, and partly by a
slight wicker frame, to bring the material into an oblong
form, and equal in size to a large sheet of cartridge
paper; this is called a BAT, and when done it is gently
pressed down by the wicker, after which a damp linen
cloth is laid all over, and on this again is placed a thick
piece of dry HORSE HIDE; the workman now begins to
press hard on the hide for about five minutes; in the
doing this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into
which it is doubled up, and once more undergoes the
pressure of the hand. Under this operation (which is
.bn 030.png
.pn +1
called BASONING) the bat becomes consolidated, and
may be thrown, when taken out of the cloth, from one
end of the garret to the other without injury. The
second half is next bowed, formed into a bat, and basoned
as the first. This half remains on the hurdle, and a
piece of paper, somewhat conical, is placed on it, over
which, and agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat
are doubled. Here then is formed one half of the body,
this is laid aside, and the first bat is then put flat on the
hurdle on which the one previously doubled is placed with
its open part downwards; the lower bat being transversely
doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of conical, or
harlequin’s cap; in this state it is once more put into the
damp cloth, where it receives another hardening for the
purpose of uniting or knitting both bats together; after
this it is folded into the compass of two hands, ready for
the plank. The next thing is the beaver, or covering,
which is bowed in form to correspond with the body,
but has nothing to do with it in this stage.
Matters being completed thus far, this is called the
first process of Hat-making. The second commences
as follows:—The workman having gone from the bow
garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery,
under which is a FIRE, for the purpose of heating the
liquor;[#] into this hot liquor the body is quickly immersed,
where it remains till soaked through; it is afterwards
laid on the plank to drain and cool; this done,
.bn 031.png
.pn +1
it is unfolded, gently rolled, turned at short intervals in every
direction, to prevent the sides uniting together; and as the
liquor becomes cold and rolled out, it is
continually supplied with hot and fresh, by the sprinkling
of a brush, which is dipped in the kettle for that
purpose; under this operation, assisted by the astringency of the
vitriol, the body shrinks, and begins to assume a
tough substance. When it has shrunk to a certain
size (say three-fifths, if to be double covered), it
is laid flat on the plank, and the first coat of
beaver, as it comes from the bow, is laid quite
over it; the brush is now dipped into the hot liquor, the
contents of which is sprinkled all over the beaver,
directly afterwards it is gently patted down with the hot
brush; here the body is put into a hair-cloth, rolled in
hot liquor, turned inside out, rolled again until the
beaver, is completely worked into the body; when this is
effected, it is in a fit state to receive the second
covering, which is put on as the first, the working,
turning, patting, and rolling still
continuing until it is reduced to a fit dimension, the
beaver quite clean, and all together assuming a
closely felted, fine, solid piece of workmanship; after
which it is immediately blocked in this same liquor, to
the size wanted, and put into a stove to dry, from whence
it is taken, and with a small fine card the beaver is gently
raised; without this, one half would lie buried, and the beauty
lost.—Here then is the complete PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING.
.pm fn-start
The liquor, which is always kept up to scalding heat, is
nothing more than clean soft water, with a wine glass of
vitriol, and a small quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The
first is to shrink the body of the Hat in working; the
other to destroy the pernicious effect of the vitriol.
.pm fn-end
It is next sent to the DYER from whom it passes to the
FINISHER, who, after stiffening, blocking, and
half finishing, sends it to be picked, which is performed
by a woman, whose place it is to pull out the kemps or
thick
.bn 032.png
.pn +1
hairs, without injuring the beaver,[#]
although that is not always accomplished. From the picker
it returns to the finisher who, by the IRON and velvet
cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and admired beauties
that an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished for. The
shaper next takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations by
the fancy of the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a
little whimsical. After shaping, it goes to the
trimmer, from whom it is returned to the TIPPER
OFF; he gets it ready for wearing; it is then sent to its
destination, when the master, if he is fortunate, puts the
amount into his pocket.[#]
.pm fn-start
It has frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with beaver
only, the answer is, there is not sufficient stamina
or strength in it to become a sound felted substance. It
would be worse than building a brick house without
mortar or some sort of cement, to bind the whole together.
.pm fn-end
.pm fn-start
Some have payment before-hand, which brings out the
following old, but very foolish saying, “there are but two
bad paymasters, he who pays beforehand, and he who
never pays.” How the latter can be a paymaster
requires some little ingenuity to determine.
.pm fn-end
.bn 033.png
.pn +1
.pb
.sp 4
.h2
THE || LAWS AND CUSTOMS || OF || JOURNEYMEN HATTERS.
.if h
.il fn=decoration.jpg w=100px
.if-
.if t
.nf c
[Illustration: Decoration]
.nf-
.if-
.sp 2
To enter fully into the various regulations and forms
that the “trade” have, from time to time, instituted
and acted upon, would of itself fill a volume; all that can
be done then in this small work will be to give the best
possible outline of such matters as are most likely to interest
those who may wish for information on the subject.
The most important laws of this trade are these:—
First—No man shall work as a maker or finisher,
unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to
what is called a “fair master.”
Second—To be a fair master, and entitled, according
to the rules of the trade, to take an apprentice, he must
have manufactured his own Hats, seven years prior to the
taking, or otherwise have served a fair seven years’
apprenticeship himself to the trade.
Third—Whether there be one, two, or more in a
manufacturing firm, that firm are not to have more than
two apprentices at one time.
Fourth—There are a number of masters who do not
manufacture their own “stuff,” but are employed by
“Great Houses,” who, although they have a right, by
law, to take apprentices, yet those apprentices, by reason
.bn 034.png
.pn +1
of their masters not working their own materials, are
never admitted to stand by the side of fair men, on
which account they must ever continue foul, and debarred
of the usual privileges, or submit to a second
apprenticeship. This is a case that frequently occurs;
indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife
and half a dozen children, himself near thirty years old,
serving a second apprenticeship for a fair time; the
hardship of this must be admitted, inasmuch as it is
punishing a man for a fault he never committed.
Fifth—A foul man is one that has not served his
apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has
been guilty of some act detrimental to the supposed
interests of the journeymen in general. These are
called “KNOBSTICKS.”
Sixth—A fair man has the privilege of what is called
“turns upon tramp,” that is, if he cannot obtain work in
the town where he resides, or has an inclination to
travel, he may journey or tramp to the next; should
any of the fraternity be there, and he wishes to get
“shopped” he is “asked for” by one in that factory,
(no man being allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there
are two night’s lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread
and cheese, and a shilling or two to forward him to the next
town. The money turn in London is five shillings, but no
man is entitled to a second turn in one place, until after
the expiration of six months from his receiving the first.
Seventh—If a journeyman has, by his own act, become
foul, nothing can absolve him but submitting to a fine,
and this is measured according to the offence, which, in
some heinous cases, such as “creeping” into favour
.bn 035.png
.pn +1
with the master, or going to work when all the rest have
struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas.
There are three distinct courts for the examination
and punishment of offenders. The first, or High Court
of Congress, is a sort of general assembly, composed
of either Makers or Finishers, just as their separate interests
may be concerned; but on all joint questions these
parties form a junction. In this court matters of importance
only are discussed; as, for instance, the advance
of prices, the abrogation of old laws, and the making of
new ones, under the operation of which, it sometimes
happens that both men and masters, as well as the law
of the land, are alike the victims. The fines levied in
this court are appropriated to special and “STRIKING”
purposes, often tending to produce a “COMBINATION”
of interesting effects. The masters too are not wholly
exempt from these pretty little combinations, which,
however, do not always realize or carry their intended
point; this is owing (it is thought) to the vast affection
journeymen bear towards their employers; indeed so
much so, that they cannot bear the latter should
“LOWER” themselves.
There is a court below this, which is formed by taking
one or two men from the seven nearest shops. Their
sitting, if not public, is sure to be in a public-house,
president, Sir John Barleycorn. The matters chiefly
brought here are those that relate to the misconduct of
journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and
which cannot be settled where they originated. This is
called “DOZENING,” and their power of FINE extends to
two guineas, which is drank in good old stout by the
whole seven shops; but as all dry subjects are prohibited
.bn 036.png
.pn +1
in this tribune, the extent of fine greatly depends
on the state of the weather; so that if it be a sultry
summer’s day, the punishment of an offender is in proportion
to the sun’s heat.
The third and lowest court is an assembly of shop-mates
only, this meeting is called a “GARRET MATCH,”
and may be demanded for the punishment of an aggressor,
by any aggrieved man in a factory. Power of fine
from two to ten shillings.
I have before stated that there are in this trade foul
men; in point of number they constitute about one-sixth
part of the whole; but their earnings, or price of
labour is the same as the fair trade.
A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an
average, from three to four pounds a-week; while, on
the contrary, a maker cannot get more than fifty shillings.
This is a subject of much jealousy and discontent;
nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter
can raise himself to an equality with the former; against
this there are many obstacles, one of which is, the
increasing foul trade, who would continue working,
even though the fair men had “struck.” Another is,
that they could never obtain the co-operation of the
finishers, who, being amply paid themselves, think it
best to leave well alone.
These are the principal regulations which govern
journeymen hatters, whether they have a good or a bad
tendency is questionable; there are many in the trade
who decidedly condemn them, giving as their reasons,
that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless
squabbles. Idleness—inasmuch as when men are summoned
to discuss the most trifling matters, even though
.bn 037.png
.pn +1
the meeting be at five o’clock in the morning, they
seldom feel disposed to return to their work that day.
Tippling—for the reason that, as fines are mostly spent
in drink, the conviction of a supposed offender is generally
thirsted after; but as the quantum levied seldom
suffices, all further supplies for the remainder of the day
are met by individual subscription. In these cases there
is no show of niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon
of the “sparkling entire,” is but an internal messenger,
bearing the glad tidings of another to come. Squabbles,
because it is natural, when the desire for a thing is once
created, and the gratification of that desire (where
nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by
having recourse to a little contrivance, that the opportunity
of so doing should be more frequently made, than
suffered to approach accidentally; which will account
for the trifling magnitudes that are allowed to agitate
shops and factories in general. The arguments in favour
of these laws are, that without them, apprentices would
be careless in serving out their time, the trade over-run
with bad workmen, hats greatly deteriorated in the
manufacture, the excellence of which is their chief
recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest
guarantee of the master’s profits at home.
Having given the contending opinions, in reference
to the laws of this trade, I shall say a word or two concerning
the shape, and manner of placing a hat on the
head.
.bn 038.png
.pn +1
.pb
.sp 4
.h2
ON THE || SHAPE AND STYLE || OF || \
WEARING A HAT.
.sp 2
There is no part of a man’s dress that makes or
mars his appearance so much as his hat; not that it is its
striking beauty when new, or a want of it when old, that is most
materially concerned in producing either of the above effects;
the grand point is the form, and the position which it
is made to assume on the head; yet how few there are who give the
least attention to either, except indeed military men, and they
in general are uncommonly tasty, affording the best example of
the precise style in which a hat should be worn. It is no less
singular than true, that the same hat, by being placed on the
head in different positions, will give, in appearance, as
many distinct characters to the same person as the
number of those positions amount to. The most striking are as
follows:—sullenness—indolence—gravity, and
good humoured impudence. To give the first, draw the brim
of the hat so far over the eyes that they shall be quite
concealed. The second is produced by the hat being thrown quite
back. The third by a prim horizontal set, covering equally
all parts of the head; and the fourth will not be easily
.bn 039.png
.pn +1
mistaken wherever an extravagant cock on
either side is brought full into view. These are undoubtedly all
extreme habits, and seldom pushed to the extent here
described; yet a slight inclination to either position may, under
circumstances, have a very good effect.
There is another bad custom that ought to be noticed,
which I shall do by first observing, that a hat was
intended solely to keep the head dry—ON which it should
be worn; but many seem to differ from this opinion,
using it as a sort of NIGHT-CAP wherein is thrust head,
ears, and all. This is a most slovenly practice, as well
as a dangerous one, inasmuch as it tends to keep the
head in a continual and forced state of perspiration,
rendering a liability to “take cold,” every time the hat
is removed. Yet even this habit is not so bad as sticking
the hat on the back of the head, which, of all others, is
the most general, and carries with it the greatest impropriety,
because such a position not only destroys the
shape, but by lodging on the coat collar, the hind part,
from friction, becomes greasy, and the binding is always
in a state of raggedness; added to these disadvantages,
a most ridiculous effect is produced by the practice, that
is, the head in appearance is converted into a sort of
peg, AGAINST which the hat seems to hang, instead of
being placed upon. A man who indulges in so bad a
custom, should at least preserve a consistency in his
dress by walking “slip shoed,” breeches knees open, and
without braces, stockings down, waistcoat unbuttoned,
cravat half tied, one arm only in his coat sleeve, and at
least a six months’ uncombed crop of hair about his
pericranium; here he would be of a piece; and grotesque
as such a figure must appear, by a general adoption
.bn 040.png
.pn +1
of these “captivating negligencies,” there is no
greater inconsistency in the whole catalogue than that
of wearing a hat on the back part of the head.
As to the form of a hat, and what is best for this face
or that person, there is more in it than what is generally
supposed, and a great deal might be said on the subject;
but to talk of a standard fashion is absurd in the
extreme, in proof of which it need only be observed,
that if very large hats were adopted, a thin man of five
feet high, would, by the wearing, become as complete a
caricature, as a twenty stone man of six feet would by
wearing a very small one. The best fashion a man can
follow in a hat is that which best becomes him, and
various as heads, faces, and persons may be, all things
are now accomplished (so far as a hat is concerned) that
can either fit the one or ornament the other,
.ti 10
By the Head’s sincere friend,
.ti 15
and well-wisher,
.ti 20
R. L.
.sp 4
.bn 041.png
.pn +1
.pb
.sp 2
.in 4
.ti -2
Furs used in a Hat of fine quality, according
to the present improved system of making,
their proportions, value, cost of manufacture,
&c. &c.
.in 0
.sp 2
.nf c
FOR THE BODY.
.nf-
.ta h:40 r:6 c:8 r:10 w=90% ew=100%
|s.\_d.|per oz. |s.\_d.
4 oz. of seasoned coney wool, |1\_\_0\_ | .. |4\_\_0\_
½ oz. red wool |2\_\_4\_ | .. |1\_\_2\_
¼ oz. of silk |0\_\_9\_ | .. |0\_4½\_
.ta-
.sp 1
.nf c
FOR THE COVERING.
.nf-
.ta h:40 r:6 c:8 r:10 w=90% ew=100%
| | s.\_d. |per oz.|s.\_d.
1 oz. of prime seasoned beaver |8\_6[#] | .. |8\_\_6\_
Journeyman’s wages for making[#] | | |3\_\_6\_
Dyeing | | |0\_\_8\_
Stiffening, finishing, and picking | | |1\_\_8\_
Cost of lining, finding, band, and box | | |2\_\_6\_
Sewing in of ditto | | |0\_\_6\_
| | |—————
| | |£1\_\_2 10½
.ta-
.pm fn-start
No hat can be good, or well covered, with less than one ounce of
prime beaver; and, small as the quantity is, there was a time
when journeymen makers (catching the custom of their betters, and
by way of tythe) thought it no sin to appropriate a part of this
material to their own use; but, for the credit of the
trade be it said, the practice is long since abolished,
and a man attempting it at the present day would be scouted from
the factory where he worked, by every honest journeyman therein.
.pm fn-end
.pm fn-start
The average week’s work of a maker is about ten hats; that of a
finisher, from five to six dozen.
.pm fn-end
Such is the cost of materials and labour at the present
period; it is true that the above scale is drawn from
“credit prices;” but let every part of a manufacturing
concern be carried on for money only, which is rarely
the case, still the deduction from the whole cannot be
more than 7½ per cent. All substitutes for the above
materials are decidedly condemned; nor can their
quantities, as here stated, be lessened, without injury
to the remainder. Here then is sufficient evidence that
a fine hat must, under the most favourable circumstances,
stand the manufacturer in upwards of twenty-one
shillings, yet many assume a capability of retailing
such an article at less even than the charge of manufacture.
.bn 042.png
.pn +1
.pb
.sp 2
.in 4
.ti -4
A General List of Lloyd’s Fashionable Hats,
invented, manufactured, and sold by him,
at his Warehouse, 92, Newgate-Street,
London.
.in 0
.ta l:17 |l:30
The John Bull |\_\_ The Bang-up
The Wellington |\_\_ The Jolliffe
The Tandem |\_\_ Clericus
The Tally-Ho |\_\_ The Bon-Ton
The Shallow |\_\_ The Baronet
The Coburg |\_\_ The Four-in-Hand
The Marquis |\_\_ A Bit of Blood
The Eccentric |\_\_ The Baron
The Regent |\_\_ A Noble Lord
The Kent |\_\_ The New Dash
The Cumberland |\_\_ A Paris Beau
The Esquire |\_\_ The Brutus
The Vis-a-Vis |\_\_ The Exquisite
The Petersham |\_\_ The Irresistible
The Tilbury |\_\_ The Pic Nic
The Count |\_\_ The Viscount
The Medium |\_\_ And the Dandy.
.ta-
.sp 2
.nf c
CONCLUSION.
.nf-
If the foregoing treatise to be judged by the letter
and not the spirit—have mercy reader.
Rules for measuring a hat.—Take the circumference
on the outside, where the band is fixed, in inches.
The breadth of brim and depth of crown as wanted.
.sp 2
.hr 75%
.nf c
Entered at Stationer’s Hall.
.nf-
.hr 75%
.sp 4
.pb
.sp 4
.ul
.it Transcriber’s Notes:
.ul indent=1
.if h
.it For the two tables outlining the expenses in making a new hat, the \
shillings and pence abbreviations were moved to column headers to \
fit line-width restrictions.
.if-
.it The original caption for the illustration of hat styles was almost illegible.\
It was replaced in the illustration by typed-in text in a similar typeface.
.it Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected.
.it Typographical errors were silently corrected.
.it Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a \
predominant form was found in this book.
.if t
.it Text in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_); text in \
bold by “equal” signs (=bold=).
.if-
.ul-
.ul-
|