.dt A Brief Sketch of The Long and Varied Career of Marshall MacDermott\
Esq., J.P., of Adelaide, South Australia by Marshall MacDermott-\
A Project Gutenberg eBook
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A BRIEF SKETCH |<s> OF THE</s> | LONG AND VARIED CAREER | <s>OF</s> | <I><B>Marshall MacDermott</B></I> |\
ESQ., J.P., | OF | ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
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<s>WRITTEN SOLELY FOR PRIVATE DISTRIBUTION AMONGST
RELATIVES AND SPECIAL FRIENDS.</s>
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ADELAIDE:
<s>WILLIAM KYFFIN THOMAS, PRINTER, GRENFELL-STREET.</s>
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1874.
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<l>A BRIEF SKETCH</l>
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<s>OF THE</s>

<xl>LONG AND VARIED CAREER</xl>

<s>OF</s>

<xxl><I><B>Marshall MacDermott, Esq., J.P.</B></I></xxl>

<s>OF ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.</s>
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<sc>The</sc> following pages were written very recently, under a degree of
pressure from some members of my family; and as I possessed no
memoranda whatever to aid me in such a work, I have had to rely
entirely upon memory; therefore errors in details may reasonably
claim excuse, after the lapse of so long a period of time. These
papers are written <i>solely</i> for private distribution amongst relatives
and special friends; and, as my family is rather numerous and
dispersed, the necessity arises of having them printed.

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I obtained a Commission in the Army of His late Majesty
King George III., at a very early age, through the influence of
Lord Hutchinson, at that time British Ambassador at the Court of
St. Petersburg, and joined the 2nd Battalion of the 8th (or
King’s) Regiment of Foot, in the year 1808, at Chester. Being
anxious to be employed on foreign service, I obtained leave in the
same year to join the 1st Battalion of the Regiment at Halifax, in
Nova Scotia, and towards the close of that year embarked again
with a division of troops under Sir Geo. Prevost, to attack the
French islands of Martinique, Guadaloup, &c., in the West Indies.
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The Halifax Division consisted of the 8th, 13th, 7th, and 23rd
Fusileers, with Artillery and Engineers; and we joined the West
Indian Division under the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Geo. Beckwith,
at Barbadoes.

During the voyage from Halifax, the convoy, including a large
fleet of transports, encountered a “white squall,” which only
lasted about fifteen minutes. From the fury of the tempest the
sea could not rise; it was smooth as a table, but covered with a
dense white foam. The fleet had been carrying a press of sail,
especially the dull sailers; when, like a clap of thunder, it was
suddenly thrown on its beam ends. Sails were torn into ribbons
and small spars and wreck were flying in all directions. Heavy
rains then descended, followed by a dead calm, when an enormous
sea arose—ships on the crest of the waves, finding others in the
gulph below them under no control, and in imminent danger of
crushing each other. Damages were repaired, and without any
serious losses the fleet proceeded on its voyage.

The united force sailed from Barbadoes for Martinique, accompanied
by the West India squadron, commanded by Sir Alexander
Cochrane, who took up a position with the West Indian Division of
Troops outside of Port Royal Harbour, on the west side of the
island. The North American Division landed at Bay Robert, on
the east side, and after two days’ sharp fighting drove the French
force, consisting of four regiments of the line and about 11,000
Militia, across the island, when they took refuge in the strong
fortress of Fort Bourbon, disbanding their Militia. On this
occasion I had the honour of carrying the King’s colours of my
regiment.

The siege of the fortress, armed with over 200 pieces of heavy
ordnance, then commenced. The 8th Regiment was placed in
position along a range of hills facing the fort, being a coffee plantation,
forming part of the estate of the Empress Josephine of
France. The ground had been recently broken up, and there being
no tents, the heavy tropical rains severely tested the constitutions
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of the soldiers, who left their moulds in the loose earth on rising
each following morning.

The mortar and breaching batteries maintained a heavy fire for
about six weeks, when two breaches being reported practicable, the
storming parties were told off for the assault on the following
morning. At the dawn of day, however, a white flag was discernible;
the garrison surrendered, marched out with the honours of
war at 12 o’clock, piled arms, and were immediately placed on
board transports for conveyance to Europe.

Four Imperial Eagles, the first Napoleon had ever lost, were
among the trophies; afterwards placed in the Royal Chapel at
Whitehall, London. The 8th Regiment chanced to encounter the
French 8th of the line on this occasion, as it had previously done
in Egypt; and was presented by the Commander-in-Chief with the
fine set of brass drums delivered up by the latter corps.

Just previous to the arrival of the expedition, a French frigate,
heavily laden with gunpowder for the garrison, had arrived at
Martinique; but before it could be landed, preparations for cutting
her out having been observed amongst the English fleet, she was
blown up at night by the French. The whole island was shaken
by the explosion; and the mountain of fire, with floating wreck
clearly visible, was inconceivably grand and awful.

At this time, war with America appearing to be imminent, the
North American Division was immediately embarked, and sailed
for the defence of these provinces, landing at Halifax.

The 8th Regiment was ordered to embark, and sailed for Quebec
in 1810, when it was thought the navigation of the River St. Lawrence
would be open. The transports passed through the Gut of
Causo towards evening, and entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence. About
midnight they found themselves surrounded by broken ice, and
four of the ships put back; but that in which I sailed continued
her course. For three days and nights she was imperilled amongst
floes of broken ice; fortunately, however, to leeward of a field of ice
extending about 40 miles in length. The nights were dark, and
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men were placed on the bowsprit to watch the floating ice and
give warning for the ship to put about. Very often the time
was insufficient, and the ship’s sides were so frequently felt to be
grinding against the ice, that it was feared the planks might not
be able to resist such frequent abrasions. A few days later she
cleared the Gulf and entered the noble River St. Lawrence, 90
miles wide at its mouth, and 400 miles distant from Quebec. On
approaching the city the scene was magnificent. On the right, the
large Island of Orleans—a perfect garden. Further on, the Falls
of Montmorency, 240 feet high; and in front, the river here taking
a bend, the Citadel, and the City of Quebec on a very lofty elevation.
The latter has a most remarkable appearance, all the steeples
and houses being covered with bright tin, to facilitate the snow in
shooting off from the roofs.

Both banks of the river, so far as it had been settled by the
French in Lower Canada, were laid out on a uniform military
plan—a town with a steeple every nine miles, where the Captain of
Militia was stationed, one of his lieutenants being on the other flank
and another in the centre.

The regiment was quartered at Quebec during the summer. At
this time, however, the 2nd Battalion of the 8th had arrived at
Halifax from England, and I was ordered to join it on promotion,
which I did, sailing on board a man-of-war in which I had been
offered a passage. Soon afterwards I was placed with a detachment
at Melville Island, in charge of French prisoners of war
amongst whom I observed an intelligent young midshipman, who
I regretted to find herded with the common sailors, and frequently
had him to breakfast at my quarters, after which we used to
practice the small sword exercise with foils, and became tolerably
efficient. After some time I applied to the Admiral, Sir J. B.
Warren, and obtained his parole, which the young scamp
subsequently broke, and disappeared.

In the year 1811, the 2nd Battalion 8th was stationed at St.
John’s, in the Province of New Brunswick, to which place, after
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marching through Nova Scotia, they crossed the Bay of Fundy.
Here the tides rise forty feet, and enter a small gulf leading to the
town of Windsor in the latter province, in the form of a bore, that
is, suddenly, as a wall of water, nearly perpendicular, and eight or
ten feet high.

During the year 1812 the Americans declared war against England,
at Washington, having previously ordered their army on the
frontier to invade Upper Canada, on the <i>same</i> day, being several
days before the intelligence could be known at that place. They
signally failed, however, in their first attacks. Reinforcements
being urgently required, and the River St. Lawrence being frozen
up for the season, the 2nd Battalion 8th was ordered to
attempt the winter march on snow shoes to Quebec; generally
through desert country, and partly through the enemy’s territory,
and where no baggage animals could travel.

The march occupied forty-two days, with a day’s interval between
each division or company. Fortunately, there had been just sufficient
time to form two depôts of provisions on the line of march, thus
making three stages of fourteen days each. On leaving each station
officers and men alike had to carry on their backs fourteen days’ provisions,
personal baggage, arms, &c., and frequently to march on snow
shoes, which, without other encumbrances, is a labour to those
unpractised. The camping at evening presented a novel scene.
Huts were formed of poles covered with branches of spruce-fir, leaving
the tops open for the smoke to escape. Large fires were kept up
the whole length of the huts; poles being staked down at proper
distances on each side, against which, the sleeping soldiers rested
their feet—their couches being formed of layers of spruce boughs
on the snow, which made capital elastic beds. The march was
successful, having only lost one man from the fall of a tree, and
fourteen men afterwards discharged disabled from being severely
frost-bitten.

When the snow was deep it was necessary to march in Indian
files, that is, only one man in front to tread down a path, the leading
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man falling in rear after fifteen or twenty paces, the next then
leading, and so on in succession, the fatigue on snow shoes
being great. Another rule was, that the last man of each
division should be an officer, to keep up stragglers. There
happened to be a long march of twenty-five miles across Lake
Tamiskwata, next to the grand portage between that lake and
the River St. Lawrence, when it was my turn to be the last
man of my division. A violent snow-storm commenced early
in the day, and after marching about eight miles, a man
was seized with convulsions. What was to be done? The snow
was drifting in eddies and circles, obliterating the path in front.
No wood was accessible to light a fire, and the man must not be
left behind. Fortunately, the party had with them an Indian contrivance,
called a “tobaugan,” being a thin board twelve feet long
turned up in front like a skate, used to relieve sick and weakly men
of their loads. This was unpacked and the load distributed amongst
those present; the sick man was covered with many blankets, tied on
and dragged by the party, eight in number, in turns. Happily, they
arrived safely at the end of their stage. My load on that day’s march
was, besides my own luggage and provisions, a soldier’s knapsack
and two muskets, my share of drawing the tobaugan, and marching
on snow shoes. The division in front encountered great dangers in
crossing the Grand Portage over a mountainous country; the
snow drifting in circles, obliterating paths, and filling up deep
hollows. Great risks arose from men lying down from fatigue,
which required unwearied exertions on the part of the officers to
prevent, to save them from perishing. After marching for twenty-two
hours until daylight next morning, the division had only progressed
eight miles, having been partially travelling in circles with the
drifting snow.

The divisions struck the St. Lawrence ninety miles below Quebec,
and the spontaneous kindness of the French Canadians could not
have been exceeded. The carrioles, sleighs, and sledges of the
whole district were assembled, and no man was suffered to march.
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They also fed the whole regiment during the route. On their
arrival at Point Levi, opposite Quebec, where the river is over a
mile wide, it was found that the ice had broken up and was
floating down in great masses with a current of about six miles an
hour. A number of large wooden canoes were collected, carrying
about twenty men each, in the management of which the Canadians
are very expert. After the men were seated the canoe was
launched into open water, and the crew paddled away with all
their might. When they encountered a large piece of ice they
jumped out, and hauled up the canoe upon it, dragged it across, and
launched it on the opposite side. This was rather a nervous
operation, as the inclines, both in launching and hauling up, were
very steep, and required holding on hard. This had to be repeated
several times during the passage.

Early in the following spring the regiment embarked in steam-boats
for Montreal. Shortly afterwards, a remarkable and most
interesting ceremony took place there, at which I was present.
The chiefs of about forty Indian nations, or tribes—some from the
shores of the Pacific Ocean, distant about 4,000 miles—assembled
at Government House for the purpose of holding a “talk” or council
with the Governor-General, Sir George Prevost, and concluding a
treaty with him—offensive and defensive. Each chief had been
presented with a scarlet robe, and the scene was very imposing.

The chiefs, generally, were remarkably fine-looking men, their
features Grecian, their carriage easy and graceful. Each chief,
while addressing the Governor-General, held a “wampum” belt,
handsomely embroidered with porcupine quills, and beads of various
colours, which is their record of the treaty. When the recognised
superior chief had concluded his speech he should have handed the
“wampum” belt to the chief next in dignity of the Sioux tribe.
It so happened, however, that he was passed over, and it was
offered to him as the third speaker. He declined the honour
in a most dignified and courteous manner, and would not deliver
his address until after all the others had finished.
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Their language was very poetical, figurative, and quite in the
Ossian style, somewhat in the following manner:—

“Father, listen to your Red Children.

“We have come from the setting to the rising sun to help our
Father in his time of need, and to live or die with him.”

“Listen, Father.

“In days long past our Father and his Red Children fought
with the Big Knives (the Americans) and they laid our Father on
his back; and he held out his hand to the Big Knives (made peace)
but forgot his Red Children. We hope he will not do so again.”

“Listen, Father.

“We ask our great Father at the other side of the Big Lake,
(the Atlantic Ocean) to supply his Red Children with arms and
ammunition, and to help us in our time of need.”

Their addresses were long, and very beautiful; and six Canadians
were found sufficient to interpret their numerous dialects.

After a short stay at Montreal, the regiment marched to La
Prairie, near Lake Champlain, on the frontier of the State of New
York, where a force of 10,000 men was assembled, including Militia,
for the purpose of attacking the American fortress of Plattsburgh,
on that lake. During the advance I was severely wounded
in a night attack. A ball struck my chain wing, on the right shoulder,
cutting it into three slugs which entered my neck (together with
six links of brass chain, a brass button, and some cloth and bullion)
close to the carotid artery, dividing the gullet, and lodged near the
carotid artery on the other side, whence they were afterwards cut
out, sundry sinews being attached to the brass chain. I lay all
night on the field in a pool of blood, and was carried into camp the
next morning. The copious bleeding—which was repeated three
times afterwards by the surgeon—was probably, humanly speaking,
the means of saving my life, which was spared by the mercy of
Almighty God. From excessive inflammation and swelling nothing
passed my lips for eight days, and then on taking a little milk and
water it passed out through the wound over my shoulder. I recovered
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in six months; but the wound broke out again after fifteen years,
from a cold, and was nearly fatal.

During the years 1813 and 1814 the 1st Battalion, 8th, 41st, and
49th Regiments, together with some Militia, had to defend a frontier
of 1,500 miles, from Montreal to Michilimakina, on Lake Superior.
The American fleets on the several lakes being generally superior,
were enabled to land numerous forces to attack weak points. On
such occasions the English troops had to concentrate by forced
marches during summer and winter. Numerous sanguinary actions
were fought, and their losses in killed and wounded were rarely
equalled. But they not only maintained their ground, but took
possession of the Michigan territory—larger than England—which
was not restored to the Americans until after the treaty of peace.

During these campaigns the 1st Battalion of the 8th Regiment lost
more in killed and wounded than their original number, viz., 45
officers and over 900 men. Its number, however, was maintained
by drafts from the 2nd Battalion and recruits from England.

During the winter of 1814-15 a king’s messenger arrived at
Montreal with despatches, announcing the conclusion of a treaty
of peace with America, and I was ordered to proceed with this despatch
to Upper Canada to put an end to further hostilities. I
travelled by sleigh with a pair of horses on the ice, driven by a
French Canadian along the River St. Lawrence, avoiding the rapids
at the several portages. When crossing Lake St. Francois—an expansion
of the St. Lawrence—it being near the close of the winter,
the ice broke under us. The driver was skilful, lashed his horses,
which sprang with their fore-feet on the firm ice, giving them a
fresh impulse; this also broke and several others in succession, until
at length the firm ice was gained at some distance. The current
underneath was very rapid. I delivered my despatch to the
Commodore, Sir Jas. Yeo, on board his flag ship the “Ontario,” 110
guns, at Kingston, Lake Ontario. This ship was an extraordinary
object to see on a fresh water lake.

After my return from Upper Canada I rejoined the 1st Battalion
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of my regiment, and intelligence having arrived of the escape of
Napoleon Bonaparte from Elba, 10,000 troops, chiefly composed of
regiments recently arrived, and which had belonged to the army of
the Duke of Wellington, were ordered to embark at Quebec, and
were to receive further instructions on reaching the English Channel.
Those troops were formed into three brigades, under Sir Geo.
Murray, Sir Thos. Brisbane, and Sir Fredk. Robinson, with artillery,
and equipped in all points ready to take the field. They sailed in
the month of May, and expected to reach Europe in time to take
part in the first battle with the army of Napoleon. When the
fleet of transports reached the banks of Newfoundland it was enveloped
in a dense fog, and the ships’ bells were constantly ringing
to prevent their falling foul of each other. Suddenly they entered
a clear atmosphere, which was caused by the presence of numerous
icebergs of enormous size. The Commodore, Sir Geo. Collyer, in
the “Liffey” frigate, sailed close to one of them, and his royal-masts
only reached two-thirds of its height. It must have been 100 feet
high, and ice is always two-thirds under water; its length was about
three miles, and its enormous bulk may thus be conceived. It
must have broken off from some very high cliff. It appeared clear
as crystal, and numerous rills of water were flowing down its sides
forming gullies. The clear atmosphere extended within a radius
of about five miles; after which the ships re-entered the fog on the
opposite side.

On entering the English Channel a frigate was waiting the arrival
of the fleet, and gave the intelligence that the Battle of Waterloo
had been fought only seven days previously. The strong regiments
landed in France and joined the army of occupation at Paris. The
8th landed at Portsmouth and marched to Windsor, where it was
quartered.

The 8th Regiment relieved the Coldstream Guards at Windsor,
and in their campaigning costume their appearance did not satisfy
the Princesses—daughters of King George III. It became
necessary, therefore, to purchase some new articles of clothing at
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the cost of the soldiers. Those ladies, especially Princess Elizabeth,
were very critical in matters of dress. Three officers happened to
be walking in the Green Park without their swords, and noticing
the approach of the Princesses, they turned into a side walk to
avoid them. The ladies, evidently intentionally, also turned off
into the same walk, and suddenly met the officers face to face.
Neither party could avoid laughing. But the circumstance of
their appearing without swords was afterwards mentioned to Sir
Herbert Taylor, the King’s equerry. His Majesty was at this time
insane, and occupied a padded room in the Castle, just over the
terrace, in care of an attendant. The terrace was closed against
the public, but the officers on guard, when visiting their sentries,
frequently saw His Majesty at the windows. His appearance was
most venerable, with a white flowing beard down upon his breast.
Previous to his insanity it was related of him that he accosted a
sentry on the terrace one morning, asking his name and if he had
a family; the man replied, “Yes.” The King then said, “Come,
along with me to the garden, and I will give you some cabbages.”
“Please your Majesty, I must not leave my post.” “O, well, well,
come when you are relieved, and I will fill your sack with
cabbages.”

On home service few events occur worth recording. Remaining
two years at Windsor, the regiment embarked at Portsmouth for
Malta. After passing Gibraltar, while becalmed off Cape de Gat,
on the Spanish coast, a number of turtles were observed floating
on the water. I, with some other officers, got into a boat and
rowed towards them. They were apparently sleeping, and eight of
them were caught by the fins and captured. One of them, however,
weighing about 200 lbs., caught three of my fingers in its beak and
cut me severely. I was quite willing to let my antagonist escape,
but my opponent would not consent, and he was hauled on
board still holding his prey. Fortunately, there was a marlinspike
on board and the fingers were released, thus affording an illustration
of “catching a Tartar.”
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Malta, with its magnificent harbour, is remarkable in many
respects. Valletta, its capital, is built on a rock surrounded on
three sides by the harbour, and is strongly fortified, as well as its
three suburbs and dock-yard situated across the harbour. The
parapets of the various fortifications by which all these places are
enclosed are said to measure forty-two miles. The works are of great
magnitude. When the island was held by the knights of Malta—formerly
knights of Rhodes, and originally knights of St. John of
Jerusalem—it is stated that at one period they had as many as
100,000 Saracens, prisoners of war, on the island, who were
employed on these stupendous works.

The ditch between Valletta and its suburb Floreana is sixty feet
wide and forty feet deep, cut out of solid rock, a sandstone
resembling that at Bath. The catacombs between Valletta and
Citta Vecchia, distant seven and a-half miles, are a perfect labyrinth
of excavated galleries, and so many persons have been lost there
that the dangerous passages have been walled up. Solid oblong
masses of human skulls and bones have been piled in various
places, and there are several spacious halls, supposed to have been
used as places of concealment.

At Citta Vecchia an ancient church exists—a re-building of one
erected on the spot stated by tradition to be the place where St.
Paul had been bitten by a viper. And you see before you the
channel “where two seas meet,” between the islands of Malta and
Gozo; where they “<i>cast out four anchors by the stern</i>, lightened the
ship, and wished for the day.” It is curious that Lord Nelson is
supposed to have gained the Battle of the Nile by adopting this
plan; for, when breaking through the French line of battle, the
latter reserved their fire until his ships should swing round at their
anchors; which, of course, having anchored by the stern, did not
take place, and they lost their opportunity of raking his ships.

The Malta stone when first quarried is soft, but hardens by
exposure. It is commonly worked in lathes in various beautiful
forms, such as vases, balustrades, &c.  The Palazzos of the
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Grand Knights are rich in architecture, generally quadrangles.
The churches and public buildings are also very fine, and some of
the monuments of the knights are beautiful; altogether the city
is very handsome. The ditch, before referred to, had been converted
by the knights into a beautiful garden, the soil of which had all been
conveyed from Sicily in ships; and the walks had been so skilfully
laid out as to convey a strong impression of extent.

While at Malta I was recommended for the appointment of Pay-master
of my regiment, which I accepted, my prospects of promotion
during peace being remote; and I proceeded to England, on leave
of absence, on board a post office packet. This vessel was obliged
to put in for repairs at Gibraltar, where she was detained eight
days; affording me a fine opportunity for examining that celebrated
fortress.

The neck of land which connects it with Spain is only 400 yards
wide, over which the rock rises with a perpendicular face to a great
height. Two wide galleries—one over the other—have been excavated
along this north face, through which port-holes have been
cut out at intervals for cannon, commanding the neutral ground.
The east side is impregnable from perpendicular rock. The defences
towards the bay on the west and on the south sides are very strong.
The length of the rock from north to south is about three miles.
Toward the centre the high ridge of rock dips considerably, and
here a battery has been placed; on visiting which I found about
100 wild monkeys chattering. They jumped down the eastern face
of the rock, catching stunted shrubs at intervals with their tails,
until they reached the bottom. They are not allowed to be shot.
The population of Gibraltar—about 16,000—is entirely dependent
on rain for their supply of fresh water; but from flat roofs, and
tanks under every house, besides large public reservoirs, they
have sufficient and to spare for supplying ships of war.

During my visit to England the 8th Regiment was removed
from Malta to Corfù, one of the Ionian Islands, and previous to my
rejoining it overland I made arrangements for a tour extending over
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several months through France, Switzerland, and Italy. Passing
through Calais, Boulogne, Abbeville, Montreuil, Beauvois, and St.
Denis, I entered Paris, where I remained, in company with a
brother officer, for a fortnight. Being resolved to see everything
remarkable which time would admit of during this tour, I worked
hard, early and late. At this time (1819) Paris was not the beautiful
city it has since become, and its population has now (1871)
been more than doubled. The gutters were made in the centre of
the streets, which were not kept over cleanly; there were no footpaths—nor
was the improved system of road-making by McAdam
then adopted. Oil lamps were attached to ropes suspended across
the streets, and early risers ran the risk of encountering shower
baths of questionable purity, ejected from the windows. Leaving
Paris in a south-east direction, the ascent of Mount Jura commences
from Dijon, a distance of about 380 miles from Paris. Many of
the old Roman roads still remained, paved with large blocks of stone,
which were very rough travelling, and planted on each side with
poplars or cypress. On reaching the summit of the road over the
Jura Mountains you come suddenly upon a most magnificent view—Mount
Blanc, the range of Alps, the lake and city of Geneva,
Lausanne, the exit of the river Rhone from the lake, and many
other interesting objects. Days might be occupied in contemplating
such a view. Below Geneva, one and a-half miles, the Rhone
forms a junction with the Arve. At this place was fought one of
Julius Cæsar’s great and decisive battles.

Leaving Geneva the road skirts the northern shore of the beautiful
and extensive lake of that name, passing through the
picturesque town of Lausanne. At the head of the lake lies the
village of Vevay. Here I met with two Irish gentlemen of most
agreeable manners, and highly intelligent; and their plans being
very similar to my own, we agreed to travel together. It may be
here remarked, that not until the end of two months afterwards
was it discovered, from a casual observation, that all three had been
school-fellows. Proceeding up the valley of the Rhone the celebrated
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Pass of the Simplon across the Alps, between Switzerland and Italy,
is reached. After his great campaign in Italy, Napoleon I. ordered
this fine road to be made. The gradients are so easy that a carriage
may be trotted up nearly to the summit—above 8,000 feet over the
sea level—passing through a few short tunnels, where rocky spurs of
the mountain intervene. Here a monastery is situated, where the
noble dogs are trained to search for lost travellers in the snow.
No description is capable of conveying to the mind the magnificent
scenery of the Alps, which is ever varying. At one point the road
passes close to a perpendicular cleft in the mountain, said to be
1,000 feet deep, and only forty or fifty yards wide at the top.
A rushing torrent can be heard from the bottom, but in total
darkness.

After crossing the Simplon the first Italian town is Duomo
Dossola; after which the road passes along the shore of Lake
Maggiore—the scenery still being beautiful. The small island
of Isola Bella is situated in this lake, and is quite unique. On
its summit stands a palazzo, of Italian architecture, surrounded
by three broad terraces, below each other, down to the water’s
edge, and planted in a most tasteful and ornamental manner.
Under the palace there is an extensive natural cave, in which is a
spring of running water. This cave is formed into a grotto,
embellished with coral and shell work, and must be a delightful
retreat during the heat of summer.

On the shore opposite Isola Bella is situated the colossal bronze
statue of Prince Carlo Borromeo, a Bishop or Cardinal. The
pedestal is thirty-six feet high, and the statue seventy-two feet,
in all 108 feet. The figure appears in Roman costume, with a
Bible in the left hand. The interior is ascended by ladders, and it
is said that eight persons could sit within the head. This statue
was erected by the inhabitants of Milan in gratitude for the
devoted labours of the Prince during the great plague which
visited that city three or four centuries back.

Travellers enter Milan through a beautiful marble triumphal
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arch, erected in honour of Napoleon. The Duomo or Cathedral is
a wonderful building of white marble, the façade of which was not
completed until he had conquered Italy, although the remainder of
the building, which has been very costly, had been commenced in
the year 1386. At the top of each pinnacle, and in various
recesses, are placed marble statues, said to be 3,000 in number.
This building should be viewed at night during the full moon,
when it has the appearance of ivory, and is a sight rarely equalled.

Being desirous of visiting Venice, I left my fellow-travellers at
Milan; having arranged to rejoin them at Florence, I proceeded
through the valley of the Po, by way of Bergamo, Breschia,
Peschiera, Verona, and Padua, from whence I crossed the Lagoon
to Venice.

The Province of Lombardy is very beautiful, situated between
the Alps and Apennines, and watered by many rivers. The
country generally is divided into square blocks, and extensively
irrigated. These blocks are surrounded by mulberry trees planted
at regular intervals, and grape vines are festooned from tree to
tree. The fruit, being ripe at this time, presented a rich and
lovely scene. The fertility of the soil, consequent upon irrigation,
is very great, producing generally three crops annually. The
culture of silk is very valuable in many respects. It employs a
large number of women and children at their own homes, and the
annual export of silk, raw and manufactured, amounts to about
four millions sterling.

Venice is built on a number of small islets, and partly on piles,
and is situated in the centre of a large lagoon at the head of the
Adriatic Sea, from which the lagoon is separated by two narrow
strips of land stretching from opposite shores, leaving a narrow
channel between for ships to enter, which is strongly fortified.
Instead of streets there are very numerous canals; and horses and
carriages being useless, the inhabitants move about the streets
in a picturesque description of boats called “gondolas.” The Palace
of the Doges and the Cathedral of St. Marco are very fine
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buildings. The former is connected with the Hall of Justice by
Lord Byron’s “Bridge of Sighs.” The monuments of the Doges,
the paintings, and the Grecian antique statues collected here, are
beautiful. In the Palazzo Manfrini there are many valuable
paintings. The three portraits by Georgione, so greatly extolled by
Lord Byron in his “Beppo,” are here. A curious anecdote
respecting that poem has been related. It is said to have
originated in a bet. A literary party, including Lord Byron, Sir
Walter Scott, Tom Moore, and some foreigners of distinction, were
dining together at Venice, when the conversation turned upon the
flexibility or inflexibility of modern languages for the purposes of
“colloquial poetry.” A general opinion was expressed that the
English language was the least adapted. Lord Byron, however,
maintained the contrary, and proposed a bet to produce a short
poem in <i>that</i> style, within twenty-four hours, against any other
like poem that could be found in any language. The bet was
accepted, and resulted in his writing “Beppo.” The umpire
declared that Lord Byron had won his wager.

Leaving Venice, the road to Florence passes through Ferrara and
Bologna. Here the Campo Santo, or burial ground, is worth
visiting; it contains many handsome monuments, and the gateway
at the entrance is fine—the pillars of which are surmounted by
colossal marble statues of “Time” and “Death.” Exquisite
paintings are also to be seen here.

Crossing the Apennines, you pass a spot called Pietra Mala,
where gas escapes from the earth through small fissures, which
were burning at the time. The flame did not rise above five or six
inches, but varies according to the state of the atmosphere, and it
spread over about half an acre of ground.

I rejoined my fellow-travellers at Florence, where I remained ten
days. This is a most delightful city, containing a variety of
interesting objects.  The Palazzo Pitti—the then Archducal
residence—contains some of the most valuable paintings and
sculptures to be found anywhere—the latter including the Venus
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de Medicis and Apollo Belvedere. Costly works in Mosaics and
Cameos are produced at Florence, where artists in such works are
very skilful. The Duomo, or Cathedral, is a fine building, and the
fountains are ornamental.

Passing through Arezzo, Trasimene (the scene of a great battle),
Perugia, Spoleto, Terni, you enter Rome—the Eternal City. The
travellers here remained a fortnight working hard to examine the
objects of highest interest. The first attraction was the Cathedral
of St. Peter, which took 150 years to build, at a cost of forty-five
millions of crowns; and here you are lost in wonder at the magnitude
of its proportions, 569 feet long and 487 feet high. On the right
hand, as you enter, you see a baptismal font, supported by two
angels of a miniature size to appearance, compared with other
objects around; but when you approach them they are colossal.
In the nave there are twelve elevated recesses, in each of which
stands a statue of one of the Apostles. A ladder stood against one
of them, to enable a workman to do some repairs. As he stood in
the recess his head reached to the knee of the statue. The size
of each object is so admirably adjusted that nothing seems
disproportioned. There are twelve side-chapels—six on each side
of the nave; and over each altar is placed a copy, in Mosaic, of
some celebrated painting. They measured fifteen feet by twelve
feet high. The first examined by our travellers was a copy of the
transfiguration, by Raphael. One of them, who had long promised
himself a feast in viewing that picture, was in raptures, and it was
some time before he discovered that it was a Mosaic copy—the
original being in the Vatican. The High Altar, an elevation, I
think, of 104 feet, is grand. In the Piazza in front, 1,000 feet
long, stands an ancient obelisk brought from Egypt, being a
single piece of granite, eighty-three feet high, and two handsome
fountains; the piazza being enclosed on two sides by stately semi-circular
colonnades of four columns abreast, sixty feet high, and
372 in number.

The next object of attraction was the Colosseum. The place
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which once echoed the shouts of 100,000 persons was now silent.
It should be viewed by moonlight. It is a very ancient and
wonderful structure. The Vatican is an extensive pile of buildings,
situated close to St. Peter’s Church. When our travellers reached
the principal entrance, the hall was crowded, and they saw Pope
Pius VII. descending the staircase, leaning on Cardinal Gonsalvi.
The crowd all knelt except the three strangers, who stood
uncovered, to whom the Pope made a distinct bow.

The treasures of art contained in the Vatican are so numerous
as to baffle description. The studios of Canova and Thorvaldsen
were visited, as also those of the most skilful artists in Mosaics
and Cameos. Many of the antiquities deserve close inspection—the
Columns of Antonine and Trajan; the Triumphal Arches of
Septimus Severus, Titus, and Constantine; the Capitol and Tarpeian
Rock; the Temples of Concord, Jupiter Stater, Anthony and
Faustina, and of Peace, the prison in which St. Peter was
confined.

From Rome to Naples you pass through Frascati, Velletri,
Frosinone, Pontecorvo, and Capua, once the winter quarters of
Hannibal and his army. Shortly after leaving Rome you cross
the Pontine Marshes, extending south about thirty or forty miles,
which infect the air to such a degree in summer as to resemble a
plague. Although apparently fertile, it is almost depopulated, and
with few habitations. The malaria arises from stagnant swamps,
and their few inhabitants are wretched objects, emaciated and pot-bellied,
generally dying prematurely from dropsy. Few efforts in
modern times had been made to drain them, the resources of the
Pontifical Government being absorbed in unnecessary churches
and processions.

A large body of banditti, generally prisoners, escaped from the
galleys, and then, supposed to number about 400, infested the
neighbouring mountains; and several gibbets were seen at
intervals on the road, at places where murders had been committed
by them. A few days previously they entered the town of Tivoli
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and carried off two of the principal inhabitants, for whose ransom
they demanded 3,000 crowns, and the Government seemed quite
unable to suppress those disorders.

The situation of Naples, with its magnificent Bay, is much to be
admired. The Royal “Museum Borbonico” contains objects of the
highest interest—a vast number of articles of ancient glass, mostly
Egyptian, Sicilian Vases, &c.; and the collections from Herculaneum
and Pompeii, consisting of ancient instruments, utensils,
female ornaments, and household articles found in those cities, and
recently removed here from the museum at Portici, are quite
unique. The Grottos of Posillipo and del Cane are close to Naples.
In the latter, a noxious gas is so powerful that nothing living can
exist within it. Dogs held by cords entering into it four or five
feet become insensible, and are dragged out. The tomb of Virgil
is near this place. The ancient manuscripts brought from Herculaneum
are like pieces of charcoal about a foot long. I saw a
person trying to unroll one of them. He used an apparatus like a
miniature windlass, with a number of fine threads hanging from
the barrel, under which the manuscript was placed. When the
end of the roll was found, those threads were attached to it by
means of scraps like goldbeaters’ leaf, and then most carefully
wound up until more scraps were required. Many gaps were left,
and in most cases the task was hopeless. I was informed that the
matter hitherto deciphered from those papyri was not of much
interest.

An early visit was made to Herculaneum and Pompeii, on Mount
Vesuvius. After being buried in lava or ashes for 1,600 years
their discovery was remarkable. A nobleman residing near
Portici, a spot of high elevation, thought that if he could penetrate
the various beds of lava by sinking a shaft he might find water.
After sinking about seventy feet, the workmen came upon a flight
of marble steps, which, being followed, led into a theatre in Herculaneum.
There had been a statue near this place, which had been
thrown down, and in the lava which had flown over it was found a
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fine cast of the statue. The theatre was excavated, and some
other buildings, but the city having been destroyed by lava, it was
too costly to make very extensive excavations, and everything
perishable was destroyed by the burning lava.

Pompeii had been buried in ashes, and was situated on a plain,
at the foot of Vesuvius. A vineyard had been planted over its site.
On ploughing the land nearly a century back, the workmen were
obstructed by a stone wall; and on excavations being made, houses
were discovered which proved to be part of the ancient city of
Pompeii. When visited by me a large portion had been cleared.
Its overthrow had evidently taken the inhabitants by surprise, for
many skeletons were found in the houses. One of them had been
laid prostrate on his face, with a bunch of keys in one hand and
some coins in the other. Many signs and names over shops remained,
and in the streets paved with lava the ruts of cart wheels
were visible. Fresco paintings on the walls still remained; and
also the inscriptions on tombs in the burial-ground. There were
some temples, but of no great magnitude, and the houses generally
had but one story.

The next visit was made to Vesuvius, and I having taken leave
with regret of my fellow-travellers and school-fellows, whose
journey terminated at Naples, proceeded to the Mount, accompanied
by three foreign gentlemen—a Russian, a Pole, and a Dane. At
this time (1819) the eruption of the volcano was very active, and
an English naval officer had his arm broken on the previous day
by a falling stone, owing to an unexpected change of wind; it
being necessary during eruptions to approach the crater on the
windward side. The party slept for a few hours at a hermitage
half way up the ascent, in order to obtain a view of the rising sun
over the Bay of Naples, which is certainly a most glorious sight.
From this place the ascent is very rough—over sharp-pointed,
heated lava; a stream of which, about six feet wide and four miles
long, was then flowing, falling over a cliff and filling a valley
beyond. Seen in the dark it was a bright red colour, but by daylight
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it was of a dull dark colour. A piece of it was scraped out,
and the impression of a coin was made on it. The crater was nearly
half a mile in diameter, and threw up large stones and ashes to a
great height, accompanied by a fearfully roaring noise. The
travellers were enabled to look down towards the bottom of the
crater, but from the confusion of flames, gases, and smoke, no
correct idea could be formed of its depth. The stream of lava was
flowing from a hole at the side of the cone. The stones thrown up
generally fell nearly perpendicularly, but the ashes are blown to
leeward, generally towards the east, where the descent is extremely
steep, and attended with some little danger. The ascent of the
mount occupies several hours, but the descent on this side is
effected with great rapidity. The travellers agreed to attempt it.
You step with one foot on deep fine ashes, which slide down with you
twenty or thirty feet; you then put down the other foot, sliding
down in like manner, and so on alternately until you reach the
bottom. The danger consists in over-balancing yourself, when you
must roll down to the bottom—some 5,000 or 8,000 feet, I think—but
by holding your head and shoulders well back you avoid this.

From Naples I travelled alone through Calabria and Apulia,
across the Southern Apennines to the Adriatic Sea—having passed
over the place where so many bushels of rings were collected from
the fingers of the Roman senators who had fallen in battle. On
my arrival at Barletta, I found a British gun-boat bound for
Corfù, in which I embarked for that island.

This most delightful tour, which can never be forgotten, was
thus accomplished. Travellers seeking pleasure will visit France;
those partial to magnificent scenery and tranquillity, Switzerland;
but for antiquities, and the arts, you must visit Italy.

I rejoined my regiment at Corfù, one of the Ionian Islands,
situated opposite the coast of Albania, where the celebrated
Ali Pasha, of Janina, nominally, ruled as Viceroy under the
Sultan of Constantinople. He was said to possess in his treasury
£8,000,000 sterling, and at that time contemplated shaking off
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the yoke of Turkey. He requested an interview with Colonel
(subsequently Sir) Charles Napier, then on the staff at Corfù, and
afterwards Commander-in-Chief in India; and it was believed that
the Pasha proposed to him to raise and command a military force
to accomplish his object. It was further said that Colonel Napier
agreed to the proposal, provided the sum of £1,000,000 sterling
was placed at his disposal for the purpose. This, however, the
Pasha declined, being very parsimonious. He shortly afterwards
rebelled, and lost his treasure and his life.

The citadel of Corfù was strong, but its value as a military post
was doubtful, as fleets could easily pass into the Adriatic unperceived
during the night. The chief products of the island were
olive oil and wine. At this time a violent earthquake took place
in the middle of the night. I was awakened from a sound sleep
by the shaking of my bed; the church bells were ringing from the
concussions; and the inhabitants were screaming and rushing into
the streets. Many walls were fractured, but no houses were overthrown
at Corfù. This shock, however, was very powerful throughout
the Ionian Islands, and nearly 800 houses were overthrown
or seriously damaged by it at Zante. Shortly afterwards, Colonel
Sir Patrick Ross was desirous of making an extensive tour, to
occupy a year, through Egypt, Nubia, Palestine, Asia Minor,
Constantinople, Thessaly, Macedonia, and Peloponnesus, and
invited Colonel Duffy, Dr. Cartan, and myself to join him. We
all agreed to do so, and our plans being arranged, we applied to
the Lord High Commissioner for leave of absence. He declined
to grant it, to our great regret, on the ground that, as the proposed
tour would be through countries subject to Turkey and
Greece, and the latter country being then in a state of insurrection,
we should be subject to insults, which might embarrass the
English Government.

The Greek insurrection having now become very general, the
inhabitants of Zante manifested a strong disposition to join in the
revolt. The 8th Regiment was suddenly ordered to embark for
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that island, having only four hours’ notice. The officers had only
time to pack up their portmanteaus, leaving the remainder of
their luggage behind, and some officers who had been out shooting
were obliged to embark in their shooting-dresses.

The regiment arrived at Zante after a passage of eight days in
a ship densely crowded, which had to put back to renew its supply
of water. It rained nearly the whole time, and the heat below
being intolerable, the greater number remained on deck night and
day. At this time the insurrection was in full activity, and the
Zantiates in a state of great excitement. Shortly afterwards a
cannonading was heard at sea, and a Turkish ship of war came in
sight, chased by sixteen Greek armed merchant ships. The Turk,
having been crippled in his rigging, found that he could not weather
a certain headland, and observing the red coats of a few soldiers,
who had been sent there to maintain the quarantine laws, he ran
his ship ashore to obtain their protection. He had fought a most
gallant action. For nearly two hours those sixteen ships had in
succession been pouring in broadsides, raking in crossing his bows,
firing again on the opposite side, and again raking in crossing his
stern, and yet he never struck his colours. When the cannonading
had ceased, the peasantry commenced firing on the Turk with
their long muskets. And when the soldiers were pushing them
back—forming a cordon—they began firing on the troops. I
happened to be there mounted as a spectator, and recommended
the young officer to collect his men on a neighbouring hill, and
defend himself as well as he could, while I galloped into town, four
miles distant, for reinforcements. These soon arrived, and quickly
dispersed the mob. Three soldiers, however, had been killed and
their bodies barbarously mutilated.

When the report reached Corfù, Sir Frederick Adam came down,
declared martial law, and held a Court of High Commission under
the Venetian laws, which had been guaranteed to the Islanders;
and after a very patient investigation, selected four of the principal
ringleaders, who were hung two hours after sentence was passed.
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The Ionian Greeks had always been in the habit of carrying
long muskets and pistols, even when pursuing their daily labour.
Sir Frederick Adam immediately issued a proclamation for disarming
the population. In every district, town, and village the
inhabitants were ordered, under severe penalties, to bring in their
arms, which were piled in heaps and burned in the presence of
English officers appointed for that purpose. A few years previously,
the French, with a garrison of three regiments, had attempted the
same thing and failed.

Some time afterwards I was seated at a window overlooking the
bay, and heard a distant heavy cannonading; presently a perfect
cloud of ships came in sight with all sail crowded, which proved to
be Greek armed merchantmen, numbering ninety sail. They
were pursued by the Turkish fleet, consisting of sixty men of war,
including four sail of the line and twelve heavy frigates. Just as
the two fleets were abreast of the bay, a violent squall of wind
came on, and the Turkish fleet entered the bay, allowing the
Greeks to escape. This they should not have done, as, in such
weather, heavy ships possess very decided advantages.

About this time, Major-General Sir John Malcolm, K.C.B.,
arrived at Zante from Persia, at which Court he had been British
Minister. He accepted an invitation to become an honorary
member of the mess of the 8th Regiment, and remained about a
fortnight. He related many interesting particulars respecting his
journey across the Syrian Desert to Cairo in his own curricle, he
being the first person who had ever travelled this route by such a
conveyance. He said he had encountered no difficulties, and had
found it a most convenient and comfortable mode of travelling.

The Zante currant is a most valuable product, and is there
extensively cultivated. There are two parallel ranges of limestone
hills in that island, and the valley between is a rich black loam,
varying from three to four miles wide, and twenty-five miles long,
or from seventy-five to 100 square miles. This valley is wholly
cultivated for that plant. When the fruit is ripe, oblong patches
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of ground, about twenty feet by thirty, are carefully levelled,
wetted, plastered over, and when dry, swept clean from dust; the
fruit is spread to dry on these in single layers, and awnings are
drawn over them at night to protect them from the dews. The
black surface attracts the heat; the fruit is generally dry and fit
to pack for market in about ten days, in hogsheads weighing 1,000
lbs. (a milliardo), and is usually repacked in England in small
boxes.

After passing a year at Zante, the military authorities were
desirous of removing the 8th Regiment to Cephalonia, but the
necessary shipping not being available, Captain Hamilton of the
“Cambrian” Frigate, volunteered to take them there, inviting half
the officers into his own cabin, the remainder being guests in the
wardroom.

The regiment landed at Argostoli, the capital of the island,
situated on a fine harbour—Colonel Charles Napier being then
Commandant. It is the largest of the Ionian group, and produces
the Zante currant, wine, and olives. An elevated range of hills
divides the island from north-east to south-west, cutting off the
two sides from intercourse with each other, there being neither
roads across the range or wheel carriages. Colonel Napier, with
his usual energy, caused a fine road of easy gradients to be made
over the range, and induced some of the inhabitants to introduce
wheel carriages, greatly to their own benefit. There is a remarkable
<i>Cyclopian</i> wall, with twelve projecting towers, across the neck
of a peninsula, about a quarter of a mile in length, in the northern
part of the island. One stone measured nineteen feet long, four
feet deep, and four feet high. Three courses of the wall and
towers, twelve feet high, remained perfect. It was probably about
3,000 years old.

A party, including myself, proceeded to visit Ithaca, a narrow
channel of about seven miles separating it from Cephalonia. This
visit was full of interest.

Ithaca is a small island in shape like an hour-glass. The far-famed
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castle of Ulysses is situated on this elevated narrow neck,
and commands a most magnificent view, second to none in the eyes
of persons of classical tastes. From that spot you behold Sappho’s
Leap (Cape Leucadia); the River Meander, on the Coast of Epirus;
Cape Lepanto; the snow-capped mountains of Albania—Mounts
Parnassus, Pindas, and Olympus; the Suitors’ Island, Ulysses’
Cave, and the spot where the Fountain of Arethusa is situated in
Ithaca. Of the ruins of Ulysses Castle there are still considerable
remains. The walls are Cyclopian, the stones of which weigh
generally eight or ten tons each, and form all sorts of angles so
admirably joined together as to present a level outer surface, with
very small openings at the joints, and without any cement, somewhat
like a tesselated pavement. This is the most antique description
of Cyclopian wall. Those of more recent periods are cut
square or oblong with smooth faces, and in the most recent the
edges are levelled.

It was an ancient custom of the Greeks to bury their dead
wearing their trinkets, and coins were placed in their mouths to
pay their ferry across the Styx to Charon. These were of gold,
silver, or copper, according to the position in life of deceased. A
place of interment was discovered not far from the castle; it was a
bare, smooth, sandstone rock of considerable extent. The graves
were excavated about three feet deep, and the stone slabs covering
them were so accurately fitted, the joints also being covered with
grass, that it required the most skilful and practised eye to detect
them. An English officer stationed on the island had made a
most valuable collection of these articles. He separated from his
most choice assortment the coins of the period of Alexander
the Great, as being “modernissimo”—too recent to deserve a place
in it.

Shortly after returning to Argostoli, a severe shock of an earthquake
took place. The regiment was standing in a line on parade,
and the line had a serrated appearance. The tiles on the roofs of
houses were moving, and a mounted officer had to dismount his
// 030.png
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horse which was trembling in every limb. The damages occasioned,
however, were not very serious.

About this time, Lord Byron arrived at Argostoli in his yacht
from Italy, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Trelawney, Count
Gamba, and an Italian medical gentleman. He retained his yacht
for about three weeks, and frequently entertained the officers of
the regiment on board, sometimes until late hours. He was very
temperate on such occasions; drinking claret and water, or soda
water. His conversation was usually full of interest. Trelawney
used to relate many of his wild stories during his residence for
some years in Arabia, amongst the Wahabee tribes. One evening
some one referred to Lord Byron having swam across the Hellespont,
from Sestos to Abydos; but Trelawney made light of it, and
challenged Lord Byron to swim with him across the channel from
Cephalonia to Ithaca. The challenge was accepted, but afterwards
Trelawney drew back. At the end of three weeks, Lord Byron
discharged his yacht, and took a villa about four miles from the
town. He usually rode in in the afternoon, and took his wine at
the mess, after which he frequently joined small parties of officers
in their rooms to smoke cigars. Lord Byron received a letter
from Lady Byron at his villa, when two of the officers were with
him, informing him of the illness of his daughter Ada. He shed
tears on that occasion, and appeared to be deeply affected.

At the mess the conversation usually turned upon the Greek
insurrection then raging, and the character of their leaders.
These were generally unprincipled men, who had numerous followers
while they obtained abundance of plunder; but when that
attraction failed they were deserted for more fortunate commanders.
Numerous bodies, in the field one day, were scattered the next;
and the central Government had no organized force on which they
could rely.

Lord Byron was fully satisfied as to the correctness of this
description. He said, however, that he felt so deeply interested
in their cause from admiration of the ancient glories of their
// 031.png
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race, that he had determined to place himself and all his means
at their disposal. As to the manner, however, in which he could
best accomplish his object, he was desirous of receiving advice.
The general opinion was that he should raise a permanent force,
to be regularly paid and trained, to be always held at the disposal
of the central Government.

Some time previous to this, the Suliotes, an Albanian tribe of
Greeks, obtained information that Ali Pasha of Yanina was
preparing to burn their villages as a punishment for some outrage
they had committed; the whole population, therefore, abandoned
their homes, and took refuge in Cephalonia. The small Peninsula
of Asso was assigned for their temporary residence, and there
they encamped. Their number, including women and children,
was about 2,000, and they could muster above 400 fighting men.
These readily entered into Lord Byron’s service, and formed the
nucleus of the force he afterwards placed at the disposal of the
Greek Government. They were remarkably fine men, and their
costume was quite picturesque.

Dr. Kennedy, the staff surgeon at Cephalonia, was very desirous
of delivering a course of lectures on the “Evidences of Christianity”
in the presence of Lord Byron, who accepted his invitation
for that purpose; and Colonel Napier offered one of his rooms for
the occasion. There were only eight persons invited to be present—namely,
Colonel Napier, Lord Byron, Dr. Kennedy, Colonel
Duffy, Lieutenant Kennedy of the Royal Engineers, Dr. Cartan,
a Commissariat Officer, and myself. The Doctor’s lectures were
most interesting and valuable, and Lord Byron occasionally argued
on various points. He did not believe, however, in prophecy, in
miracles, or in the inspiration of the Holy Scriptures; and at the
conclusion of the third lecture he excused himself from further
attendance, complimenting Dr. Kennedy by saying that <i>he was the
most gentleman-like Christian with whom he had ever held a discussion
upon the subject</i>. The other persons named continued their
attendance to the end of the course of eight lectures.
// 032.png
.pn +1

At this time I obtained leave of absence to England, and Lord
Byron entrusted me with the manuscript of the last portion of
any poem he ever wrote, namely, the three last cantos of “Don
Juan,” to be delivered to Sir John Cam. Hobhouse. I had a
handsome portable brass bedstead which Lord Byron was desirous
of having, and on that bedstead he died, in the fortress of
Missalonghi, opposite the coast of Cephalonia, which withstood a
long siege by the Turks.

It may here be mentioned the very general opinion held as to
the character of the belligerents. The Greeks were considered a
lawless race, in whose veracity or integrity no reliance could be
placed. The Turks, on the contrary, although sometimes fanatical,
were held to be a people of integrity, on whose word you might
rely. Neither, however, were wanting in bravery.

The 8th Regiment was ordered home, and was stationed in the
Citadel of Plymouth in the year 1826, where I rejoined it. While
there, the great storm took place, by which twenty-seven ships were
wrecked in Plymouth harbour, and the military barrack partially
unroofed. At one spot eight ships were so jammed together that
it was difficult to distinguish the wreck of one from the other. The
storm commenced towards evening with great fury, and while I
was on my way to the mess-room I met an old brother officer
hurrying to get on board his ship before dark, as it was to sail next
morning for Demerara. I persuaded him to dine with me at the
mess, and that night his ship parted in two at the water-line, the
upper works being new.

During the next year the regiment proceeded to Glasgow. At
a previous period it had been employed there in suppressing some
riots, and had fallen into bad odour. This had not then been
forgotten. Great distress, however, prevailed at this time, and the
officers and men subscribed a day’s pay towards their relief, which
created a most amicable feeling towards them.

After passing a very agreeable year in Glasgow, the regiment
proceeded to Londonderry, in the north of Ireland. While there,
// 033.png
.pn +1
the great Ordnance Survey of Ireland, under Colonel Colby, R.E.,
was in progress; and a <i>base line</i> eight miles long—said to be the
longest ever previously accomplished—was then completed. As a
great scientific work it is very remarkable. It was necessarily on
a dead level, bearing east and west, and was constructed by a
combination of different metals, sliding in grooves, so that their
expansion or contraction, caused by changes of temperature, indicated
the true medium.

The great length of this line enabled the surveyors to take very
distant bearings with perfect accuracy. At the same time, Mr.
Drummond, of the Royal Engineers, discovered the celebrated
light named after him, by means of which, exhibited from the
summit of a high mountain in the County Tipperary, its accurate
bearing was taken from the base line—a distance of 150 English
miles. By this means, also, a bearing in Scotland was obtained
for the first time, thus tying in the surveys of Scotland and
Ireland. The survey of Ireland was constructed on a very large
scale, and included the acreage of arable, pasture, mountain, and
bog lands, besides being a geological survey. And it is a curious
fact, that when the periodical work of twenty or thirty parties
were sent in, the chief engineer sitting in his office could detect
the slightest error in any one of them, and send it back for correction,
so that the whole should tie in with the most perfect
accuracy.

Leaving Londonderry, the regiment was next quartered at
Enniskillen, situated on Loch Erne. The scenery in this neighbourhood
is beautiful, and the hospitality of its numerous gentry
could not be surpassed. Sir Henry Brooke, Bart., had a splendid
mansion, including forty bedrooms. There were fox-hounds and
harriers, and the hunting parties generally included three or four
ladies. There was excellent shooting, and any number of guns
with gamekeepers; good salmon and trout fishing, with plenty of
tackle; and billiard tables. There was a succession of company
during the season, each party being invited for three or four days,
// 034.png
.pn +1
with horses and carriages for their use. The tenantry had been
living on the estate for three or four generations, many of them
wealthy, and to crown all the host and hostess were most amiable
and accomplished persons.

A general order to the troops serving in Ireland was issued at
this time, directing an officer and two sergeants from each
regiment to proceed to Dublin to be instructed in the broadsword
exercise, which they were afterwards to teach to the officers and
men of their respective regiments. I volunteered to proceed on
this duty, and became an honorary member of the mess of the
Rifle Brigade. A very eminent swordsman, Mr. Michael Angelo,
was the instructor at the Riding School of the Royal Barracks.
The instruction lasted for four months, and was a very fine
exercise, bringing every muscle into action. But the regimental
drills afterwards were very troublesome, and occupied much time.

From Enniskillen the regiment proceeded to Newry, and not
long afterwards from thence to Dublin. This station was very
popular with the officers, from its very extensive circle of good
society. At this time I had turned my thoughts towards the
Australian Colonies, and sought advice from Sir Thos. Brisbane,
in whose brigade I had formerly served. He strongly recommended
New South Wales, of which colony he had recently been
Governor. It may here be mentioned that when an honorary
member of the 8th mess in Lower Canada, when encamped on the
frontier of the United States, his conversation frequently turned
upon the subject of astronomy, and he expressed a wish, when
his military services were not required, to proceed to New South
Wales, for the purpose of observing the transit of the planet
Venus. This wish was gratified; and he caused the observatory
at Parramatta, near Sydney, to be erected for that purpose.

During the year 1829, I came to the decision of retiring from
the army, after a military service of upwards of twenty-two years.
I was permitted to sell a company, but was delayed for four
months, during the last illness of His Majesty George IV., as
// 035.png
.pn +1
no commissions could be issued until the following reign. It
is hardly necessary to say that parting from many old and
valued friends was very painful to me, and previous to my
departure the Colonel of my regiment, the late Hon. Sir George
Cathcart, accompanied by the two Majors, waited on me and
presented me with a handsome silver breakfast service in the name
of the regiment.

The colony of Western Australia was being formed at this
time; and the large concessions of land offered to the settlers by
the Government on easy terms induced me to select that colony
for my future residence. Two officers of the Rifle Brigade,
Captains Molloy and Byrne, proposed to accompany me. And it
was agreed that they should join me in purchasing a ship, to be
loaded with wooden houses and boats, and to convey the three
parties and their establishments to the new settlement.

I proceeded to Gothenburgh, in Sweden, for that purpose,
where a fine ship of 500 tons was purchased, and during her
repairs a cargo of wooden houses was framed and loaded. I then
proceeded with a fine Swedish crew to Christiansand in Norway,
where a large number of boats were shipped. The character and
scenery both of Sweden and Norway reminded me of Nova
Scotia, from their extensive pine forests, numerous lakes, and
granite rocks. Intemperance was prevalent from the use of
ardent spirits, the climate being cold; and the observation
occurred to me that in warmer, wine-producing countries intoxication
is much less frequent.

The ship proceeded to Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, and I by
Post-Office Packet to Harwich, on the coast of England. I
travelled from thence into Derbyshire, where the family of my
affianced wife resided at Holme Hall, and was there happily
married. I had been desirous of avoiding the frequent inconvenience
of moving about with a family while in the army, and my
wife was willing to share my fortunes in Australia.

From the delay referred to, arising from the King’s illness, I did
// 036.png
.pn +1
not arrive in Western Australia until June, 1830. The passage
from England was favourable, although tedious, only touching at
the Cape de Verde Islands. And on arrival at the anchorage at
Fremantle, I and my wife were hospitably received at the house
of Mr. George Leake, the leading merchant at that time.

An entirely new career now lay before me, but I had health
and strength for the undertaking. I was fortunate in finding
shelter in a colony only founded the previous year. My less
fortunate predecessors at an earlier period, finding neither houses
or sheds, had to resort to tents; and their handsome furniture,
including satin and gilt chairs, harps, grand pianos (some of them
afterwards gutted to make cupboards, &c.), lay exposed to all
weathers on the beach. My first object was to find land for a
homestead within a moderate distance from Perth, the capital.
But such lands had all been already selected; and although I was
entitled according to regulations to select 27,000 acres, in virtue
of property and servants introduced, I found it necessary to
purchase 5,000 acres on the Swan River, about nine miles from
Perth. The Governor, Sir James Stirling, had a summer residence
adjoining this land, the use of which he offered to me until I
could erect some temporary accommodation, and the offer was
thankfully accepted.

The purchased land was on the navigable part of the River
Swan for boats, and my luggage and stores were conveyed to it
by contract.

I had brought out as servants nineteen souls, including one
family; and now hard work was to be done, in which I took my
full share. In a short time, temporary accommodation, including
a small cottage, store, and huts for the men, were erected; the
luggage and stores under shelter, and a commencement made in
clearing land for tillage.

Troubles had to be surmounted at an early period. Not many
months had elapsed when an alarm of fire was given at a late hour
one evening, during my absence at Perth, and the store, containing
// 037.png
.pn +1
from twenty to thirty tons of provisions, luggage, furniture, &c.,
was in a blaze. As the roof was of thatch and the building contained
some gunpowder, it was dangerous to attempt saving anything—all
was destroyed. The dwelling was within thirty feet of
it, but the wind blew from it, and a providential shower of rain
then falling saved that building. The origin of the fire was not
discovered, but a discontented servant was suspected. His passage
from England had been provided, and he was under a written
engagement, at moderate wages, to serve for three years; this he
endeavoured to break without repaying his passage-money. However,
he was discharged, but was afterwards convicted, in another
service, on a felonious charge and transported.

There were some very fine alluvial flats, on the banks of the
Swan, on which no live stock had been depastured. In conjunction
with another gentleman I arranged, during the following season, to
mow the land for hay, at that time worth £14 per ton. Three
stacks, of fifty tons each, were made; but the aborigines, not having
seen anything of the sort before, were desirous of witnessing the
effect of a large fire, and stuck firebrands into them—which made
short work. They were all destroyed.

The Governor, Sir James Stirling, undertook to lead an exploring
party to examine the country between Perth and King George’s
Sound, which was then unknown. I and some other gentlemen
entitled to select land accompanied him, also some surveyors.
A couple of drays drawn by oxen, and loaded with provisions and
some surveying instruments, accompanied the party. The
character of the country was very variable. After a few days’
travelling, the cattle fed on some poisonous plants and several
of them died, at our camping place, during the night. One of the
drays, some provisions and instruments, were necessarily abandoned
there. Shortly afterwards, we struck on a river, then named the
Williams, situated in a fine and apparently extensive district.
Some of the party proceeded up the valley about twenty miles the
following day, and camped for the night. I and another gentleman,
// 038.png
.pn +1
however, strolled a couple of miles from the camp, in a southerly
direction, and returning northerly, we felt satisfied that the river
would bring us up and that we could not miss the camp, even at
night. The bed of the river at that time, however, was a succession
of pools, and the long intervals between them were thickly grassed.
We thus crossed the river without knowing it, after dusk, over one
of those intervals, and lost ourselves. Thinking there might be
some extraordinary bend of the river, we walked on until midnight,
and then lay down to rest. There was no water and nothing
eatable except a morsel of cheese the size of a walnut, which we
divided. After consultation, we started at daylight on a due west
course, hoping to cut the track made by Sir James Stirling’s party
travelling south. This we happily discovered towards evening, and
rested for the night. On the evening of the third day we rejoined
the main party, which had been searching for us, and had almost
given us up as lost.

It was arranged that on the following day those entitled to
select land should again proceed up the Williams River for that
purpose, accompanied by a surveyor, Sir James Stirling and the
remainder of the party proceeding in a south direction to accomplish
the chief object of the expedition. On reaching a selected point on
the river, the measurement was to commence. The surveying
instruments, chains, &c., had been abandoned where the bullocks
died. The surveyor had a compass, but distances had to be paced.
Long frontages to the river were desirable, and long legs possessed
an advantage—subject, however, to a final survey, when any surplus
would be struck off from the back land. The general course of the
river was from S.W. to N.E., but very winding. A tree was marked
on the river’s bank, from whence the surveyor started due east, the
paces being counted; but after pacing a mile, the river still receding,
a due north course was taken to strike the river again, and so on
alternately east and north, until the required due east direction was
attained. This process gave me about ten miles of river frontage,
although the due east measurement was scarcely half that distance.
// 039.png
.pn +1

The Williams district was undulating, well grassed, and the soil
in the vicinity of the river excellent, producing abundance of sandal
wood. A mob of about 200 kangaroos was started during the day,
and some of the party had a good gallop after them. About three
days were occupied in making the selections, after which the
surveyor was instructed on his return to Perth to explore a new
country westward of that already travelled.

The party started accordingly on a west course, and crossed Sir
James Stirling’s track. On the third day we passed over the
Darling range—an elevation under 2,000 feet—a rough, stony
country, heavily timbered, but with little arable land. The
following day we reached the coast, at the mouth of the River
Murray. This was the third day the party had been without water,
and the men made a rush to the river to drink, but found the
water to be salt. No efforts could avail to dissuade two of the
party from drinking immoderately, and one of them shortly afterwards
became insane. Fresh water was soon found, and after two
more days the party reached Perth. The character of the land
traversed on this occasion was very variable, but the proportion of
bad country was in excess.

In the early stage of the colony the deficiency of a circulating
medium was severely felt, and consequently few transactions could
take place, except by means of barter. The Government regulations
entitled settlers to claim land in consideration of the importation
of servants, provisions, agricultural implements, live stock, &c.;
but no claim could be made on account of capital in the shape of
money. The settlers therefore invested almost the whole of their
resources in such articles as would entitle them to claim land. If
you required a team of horses, the person desirous of selling one did
not want what you could offer in exchange, but wished for sheep.
You then applied to an owner of sheep, who desired something you
did not possess; and frequently two or three exchanges were
necessary before you could procure the articles you wanted—generally
losing something on each exchange.
// 040.png
.pn +1

Under such circumstances, I proposed a scheme for the formation
of a local bank, and was ably assisted by Mr. George Leake and a
few other friends possessing influence and property—but no cash.

We depended on the Commissariat issues for the Government
expenditure for supplies of coin. The necessary nominal capital
was subscribed, and the shareholders assembled to make the
arrangements required for opening the bank. At their request, I
undertook the management of it, with a Board of Directors. They
issued their notes, and the benefits derived by the public became
manifest immediately. The bank was very successful. A sufficient
supply of coin was gradually obtained from the Government
expenditure, and the shareholders for some time divided profits
of forty per cent. on their <i>nominal</i> capital, which was simply the
credit of their names.

The system which enabled settlers to obtain enormous grants
of land was found in practice to be neither advantageous to those
persons or to the colony. They could not make a profitable use
of them; they became a drag upon their resources to meet
necessary expenditure, and the lands were locked up from those
who might have turned them to better account. One settler,
Mr. Peel, obtained 250,000 acres, with a right under certain
conditions to claim a like additional quantity of land. The early
settlers introduced a large number of servants at their own
expense, generally articled to serve for three years at moderate
wages. Their employers were inexperienced, not knowing how to
apply their labour to the best advantage. For a short time
provisions reached famine prices, flour selling at two shillings and
sixpence per pound. Servants would not then accept their discharges,
but when prices fell they broke their engagements, and
instances have occurred of masters having become the servants of
their former ploughmen.

The local Bank had been in existence about five years, to the
great benefit of the colony, when the Bank of Australasia proposed
an amalgamation; and, after due consideration, it was thought
// 041.png
.pn +1
advisable for the interests of the colony to secure the co-operation
of that important corporation. The Manager sent from London
died before the Bank was opened, and the management of the new
Bank was conferred on me.

An opinion prevailed in the colony that the interests of religion
would be greatly promoted were Western Australia erected into
the See of a Bishop, and I proposed a scheme to create an
endowment for that object by means of subscriptions of land, to
which I contributed 500 acres. After an interval of several
years the object was happily accomplished by the appointment of
an excellent man, Dr. Matthew Hale, formerly Archdeacon of
Flinders, in South Australia, to be the first Bishop of Western
Australia.

After an experience of another five years the Bank of Australasia
came to the conclusion that their business in Western Australia
was too limited to justify their maintaining an isolated branch at
Perth. It was therefore ordered to be closed, and I was offered the
management of their branch at Adelaide, in South Australia,
which I accepted. Thus it fell to my lot to open and also to close
two Banks.

It was with feelings of much pain that I made up my mind to leave
a colony in which I had resided for sixteen years. The interest
felt in the formation and progress of a new settlement became a
tie binding society together. Being situated on a western coast,
where the sea breezes prevailed for nine months in the year, the
climate was excellent; and, although the average of the land was
of an inferior quality, yet there was abundance of rich land for
purposes of tillage.

Previous to my departure, I was gratified by receiving a
flattering address, signed by all the members of the Executive
Council, the magistrates, clergy, and many others, testifying to my
zeal in promoting objects of public utility.

In April, 1846, I and my family arrived in Adelaide, and
assumed charge of the Bank of Australasia at that place, at that
// 042.png
.pn +1
time temporarily situated in Hindley Street. A new and excellent
site was obtained in King William Street shortly afterwards, on
which handsome premises were erected. This ground, about
ninety feet square, was purchased in exchange for 640 acres of
excellent country land. To avoid the difficulty of proving the
signatures of a corporate body frequently changing, the mode of
conveyance chosen, being remarkable, is here mentioned. It was
the old feudal system of “livery of seizin.” I went upon the land,
pulled a twig off a tree, which I presented to the purchaser in the
presence of witnesses, using a few formal words. The transaction
was recorded and registered, and thus conferred an indefeasible
title in law.

At the period referred to, Adelaide was in a very primitive state
and I actually lost myself for a short time within its boundaries.
The streets and pathways were generally in their natural state, and
from the traffic in wet weather foot passengers were up to their
ankles in mud. St. John’s Church was like a barn; and, on my
appointment as warden, I collected a considerable sum to build a
vestry, plaster the walls, and make other improvements.

No superior school had been established for the education of
boys at that time, and I devoted all my spare time towards the
attainment of that object. I assembled a meeting of gentlemen,
representing various religious bodies, to consider the question,
which met on two or three occasions. Several of them, however,
strongly urged as a principle, that there should be no religious
teaching whatever. This principle was rejected by a large majority.
I then secured the co-operation of a committee of twelve gentlemen,
of which I was elected chairman, who agreed to form a
proprietary grammar school on Church of England principles, but
open to all denominations. I collected £2,000 from eighty subscribers
of £25 each, and after a delay of four or five months the
school was at length opened in the school-room of Trinity Church.
The Revs. W. J. Woodcock and James Farrell and Mr. G. W.
Hawkes were most energetic coadjutors.
// 043.png
.pn +1

Shortly afterwards I suggested to Captain Allen—a munificent
friend to education—that as the school had made a fair start, I
hoped some of our wealthy friends would push it on, as I wished to
secure a good site and erect buildings. In this he concurred,
saying he would give £1,000 and thought Mr. Graham would do
the same. I pointed out that Mr. Graham was in England and
not accessible, but hinted that the £1,000 might be increased to
£2,000, which Captain Allen at once agreed to. He afterwards
increased his donations to upwards of £7,000.

The Lord Bishop of Adelaide arrived about this time from
England. He had obtained a grant of £2,000, from the Society
for Promoting Christian Knowledge, which he agreed to place at
the disposal of the School Committee—provided accommodation
in their new buildings was set apart for four theological students.
This arrangement was concluded accordingly, and the school was
afterwards, by Act of Parliament, incorporated as the “Church of
England Collegiate School of St. Peter.”

A very valuable site of about thirty-seven acres of land close to
Adelaide was secured, on which extensive and handsome buildings
have been erected. The late Mr. DaCosta bequeathed a reversionary
property to the Institution, valued at £23,000; and the
late Dean Farrell bequeathed his estate, valued at £15,000, to the
College, subject to a few annuities. The school has attained to a
high reputation, many of its pupils having attained first-class
honours at the English Universities, including the degrees of
Wrangler at Cambridge, and its staff of masters is believed to be
unsurpassed in the Southern Hemisphere.

Through the munificent liberality of Captain Allen a school for
the education of the middle classes was also established, and suitable
building erected in Pulteney-street, the property being vested in
the then Governors of the Collegiate School, and on similar
principles, the object being to cheapen the cost of education to suit
the circumstances of that class. Mr. Masters endowed this school
with three country sections of land; the Government of that day
// 044.png
.pn +1
also contributing £500. The property of this Institution is worth
about £3,000, and it has been eminently successful.

Having been formerly stationed in the Island of Zante, one of
the Ionian Islands, I became aware of the great mercantile value
of the Zante currant, and while in Western Australia succeeded in
introducing the plant into that province. Its history was remarkable.
After a long correspondence in establishing agency, the
Curator of the Government Garden of St. Antonio, in Malta,
received an application from London for a supply of cuttings,
which reached him a month after the pruning season, but the
request being urgent he pruned a second time. The cuttings
were then rolled in damp flannel, packed, and soldered in a tin
case, and forwarded to Dr. Hooker, Curator of Kew Gardens, near
London. That gentleman planted them in a glazed case, but many
months elapsed before an opportunity occurred to forward them to
their destination. They at length reached Western Australia, but
at the wrong season. However, Mr. Mackay, the Judge of the
Supreme Court, had a conservatory in which they were planted
and most carefully attended. In the following spring they were
removed and planted out, the roots being like fine white Cambric
threads; but in the second year a few tolerably strong shoots
were obtained. To save time, the double system of budding and
grafting was adopted on old grape vines, and in the following year
about 400 rooted plants of the Zante currant were established.
None other existed in Australia. Mr. McArthur, of New South
Wales, wrote to request a few plants, which I had the pleasure of
forwarding, and distributed others to several gentlemen in South
Australia.

As kindred to the above it may be here noticed that, during my
residence in Western Australia, in conjunction with Mr. Richard
Nash, we formed a Vineyard Society, the object being to prepare
and trench a nursery for vines, to procure a collection of the
choicest varieties, to preserve their names and identity, and to
distribute them <i>gratis</i> to all who engaged to plant them in
// 045.png
.pn +1
trenched ground. Some gentlemen reduced the rents of their
lands to their tenants in proportion to the extent of their
vineyards. The Society procured a collection of 400 varieties from
Mr. Busby’s vineyard, in New South Wales, but the progress in
distributing plants was rather slow, until a few of the settlers
produced wine, which gave a rapid impulse to the operations of
the society, and within a few years some of them were enabled
to distribute a pint of wine daily to the men in their employ.
The society also published a pamphlet containing instructions for
the formation and cultivation of vineyards and for making wine.

Some time after the Lord Bishop (Dr. Short) arrived in Adelaide,
a Conference of the several Australian bishops was summoned to
meet the Metropolitan at Sydney. A new dogma was declared at
that conference to be an <i>article of faith</i>, after some opposition,
namely, baptismal regeneration. The Bishop returned, and on the
day previous to the annual meeting of the “Church Society” (the
then governing body of the affairs of the Church of England in
South Australia), the proceedings of the Sydney Conference became
known. The Governor, Sir Henry Young, presided, and after
routine business being disposed of, I strongly protested against the
Sydney Conference assuming authority to impose <i>a new article of
faith</i> in addition to the Thirty-nine Articles. Unfortunately, I had
not had time to give notice of my intention or secure a seconder of
my motion, and a pause ensued. Sir Henry Young then said that
as it was not seconded he would not put it to the meeting, when
Mr. G. S. Walters stood up and said he would not only second, but
support it. Sir Henry immediately left the chair in anger, and
retired—the Bishop then presiding. The meeting was greatly
excited; but after some discussion, His Lordship promised to call a
general meeting of the members of the church in a fortnight, to
consider the subject, on which the business of the day terminated.

The meeting referred to was held in the Pulteney-street schoolroom,
which was crowded, and the subject of the new dogma was
fully discussed. The resolutions opposed to it were carried almost
// 046.png
.pn +1
unanimously, there being only two or three persons who voted
against them. These proceedings were afterwards commented
upon with approval by the Archbishop of Canterbury in the House
of Lords, and were similarly noticed in the House of Commons.

An address of thanks on this occasion, most respectably signed,
was afterwards presented to myself and Mr. G. S. Walters.

At this time the position of the Church of England in the
colonies was very unsatisfactory. The Ecclesiastical Laws of
England were declared to have no force, and the Church appeared
to be cast adrift. A meeting of the “Church Society” took place,
at which a committee was appointed—consisting of Major Campbell,
Messrs. G. W. Hawkes, R. B. Lucas, and myself, of which I was
named chairman—to consider and report upon “the best means
they could devise for drawing the clergy and laity into closer
union.” The constitution of a Diocesan Synod appeared to me
to meet the requirements of the case, and I drew up a full scheme
to accomplish that object, which I submitted to the Committee,
and afterwards laid before the “Church Society.” This scheme
was considered to be extremely bold, as there was no precedent of
such plan having been adopted previously by any branch of the
Church of England, except some approach to it in the diocese of
Toronto in Upper Canada; and the only guide for such a system
was that of the Episcopal Church of America. The subject was
discussed at great length, and for several months. It was
adjourned, however, as the Bishop proposed proceeding to England,
where he could consult the highest legal authorities, including the
Attorney-General. The scheme was declared to be perfectly legal,
and on His Lordship’s return to the colony it was inaugurated by
a <i>consensual compact</i>, and has now, in the year 1871, been in
operation during seventeen annual sessions with the happiest
results, and has been also adopted in all the other Australian
colonies and New Zealand. Subsequently, another subject affecting
the Church of England attracted much notice. The colony was
visited by a very eminent and much respected Non-conformist
// 047.png
.pn +1
minister, the Rev. Thos. Binney. He was cordially received by all
classes of society, and was for a short time a guest at Bishop’s
Court. The Governor, Sir Richard MacDonnell, was desirous that
he should be invited to preach in the Church of England pulpits,
and procured his own election as a member of Synod, for the
purpose of proposing it, of which he gave due notice. A
preliminary meeting of the Standing Committee of Synod was held
to consider the subject, and I was requested to oppose the
Governor’s motion by an amendment, moving the “previous
question,” and thus defeating it. At the subsequent meeting of
Synod, Sir Richard MacDonnell delivered a long address strongly
urging the adoption of his motion, which was discussed at great
length; and I moved the amendment agreed upon, which was
carried by a majority of about two-thirds. The consideration that
the Synod had only recently bound itself by its <i>consensual compact</i>
to abide by the laws and usages of the Church of England, had a
powerful influence with the majority. An address of thanks from
the “Lincolnshire and Nottinghamshire Church Union,” dated
18th August, 1859, was afterwards received by me as the mover of
the amendment on this occasion.

About the year 1848 a monetary pressure occurred, and the
merchants were calling in their advances made to the sheepowners.
I felt that if this course was continued it would probably lead to
a commercial crisis, which would depreciate the securities held by
the Bank. I therefore paid off the liabilities of those whom I
considered safe to the extent of about £70,000, taking up their
accounts, which prevented the expected crisis, greatly increasing
the business of the Bank, and nothing was ever lost on those
accounts. The London Directors became alarmed, however, at
those large transactions, and remonstrated with me. It is
difficult, however, for gentlemen residing at so great a distance to
form an accurate judgment on such transactions.

In the year 1849, I received a letter from Lord Fitzroy
Somerset, afterwards Lord Raglan, Military Secretary to the
// 048.png
.pn +1
Commander-in Chief the Duke of York, forwarding to me a war
medal and clasp. The Duke of Richmond had called the attention
of the House of Lords to the fact that no medals had been
granted to the army for certain distinguished battles and sieges,
and moved an address to the Crown upon the subject, which was
carried. A Board of General officers was appointed to consider
and report upon the matter, and their recommendation was
adopted.

The discoveries of gold in the Province of Victoria were so rich
that a perfect exodus of all classes of the male population of South
Australia, except the old and young, took place. It was a time of
great anxiety, on account of the numerous helpless families which
were left slenderly provided for. The Adelaide men were
generally successful, and having collected large quantities of gold,
began returning to their families in about six months, when the
scenes occurring in Adelaide were quite marvellous. A dozen
weddings almost daily taking place; the bridal parties driving in
carriages about town and country, and clearing the drapers’ shops
of silks and satins.

At the time of the exodus the notes of Banks were presented in
large quantities for payment in specie, of which the Bank of
South Australia, although wealthy, was nearly drained; but the
demand was so sudden that there was no time to procure supplies
from abroad. The Bank of Australasia held at that time about
£90,000 in gold, and was prepared to aid the other Bank for
mutual protection, when fortunately the scheme of the “Bullion
Act” was brought into operation, and effected an immediate and
wonderful change.

This Act was devised by Mr. G. S. Walters, a gentleman of
great experience in monetary affairs. It provided that the gold
dust already deposited in the Treasury, amounting to a large sum,
should be smelted into ingots of various sizes, stamped with the
Queen’s head, and the accurate assay, and declared to be legal
tenders at the rate of £3 14s. per ounce—gold dust then selling in
// 049.png
.pn +1
Melbourne at £3 7s. This immediately stopped the demand for
sovereigns, caused large additional quantities of gold dust to be
introduced from Melbourne, and quieted the public mind. Some
of the gold was so pure that it afterwards realized over £4 per
ounce in London.

There is no doubt that the Bullion Act was a direct infringement
of the Royal prerogative as to coinage, and demanded
anxious consideration. Sir Henry Young was then Governor, and
the Bank Managers were requested on different occasions to meet
him in Executive Council to consider the subject. Mr. Tinline
(Bank of South Australia) and myself (Bank of Australasia)
urgently supported the adoption of the Bill; the Manager of the
Union Bank opposed it. The responsibility was very great, but
the Executive Government submitted it to the Legislature, and
the Bill was passed into an Act for two years. The Home
Government approved of it, considering that it was warranted by
the great emergency.

Another very useful measure was adopted about this time. A
strong, well-armed body of mounted police was sent periodically
to the gold diggings at Bendigo, in Victoria, to escort the gold
found by South Australian diggers to Adelaide. The service was
continued for a considerable time, and the gold thus introduced
exceeded two millions sterling.

The successful gold diggers would, in all probability, have
remained in Victoria and removed their families from hence had it
not been that many of them were owners of land, which tied them
to the province; and they ultimately returned with their
unexpected wealth and purchased additional lands.

There can be no doubt that the land system of South Australia,
which provided that the country should be surveyed and sold in
sections of eighty acres, was the means of saving the province from
temporary ruin. The facilities for acquiring land by the labouring
classes were very considerable. The discovery of the Burra Copper
Mine gave the first great impulse to the progress of the colony; the
// 050.png
.pn +1
produce of that mine alone having exceeded £4,000,000 sterling
up to a recent period.

It is curious to follow the career of an immigrant after that
discovery. He became a labourer for one or two years, when his
saving of wages enabled him to purchase a team of oxen and a dray.
He then commenced carrying copper ore from the Burra Mine to
Port Adelaide, taking back stores and provisions, and in one or two
years more was in a position to purchase an eighty-acre section of
land and become a farmer. While his crops were growing, and
at other spare times, he again carried ore from the mine and was
soon able to purchase more land, and became a man of some
consequence in his district. This man was the type of a considerable
class of yeomen, who, having property to protect became
Conservatives, and exercised a material influence on the peace and
prosperity of the country.

The transactions of the Burra Mine were on a great scale at
that time, employing upwards of 1,100 men, who, with their
families, numbered over 4,000 souls supported by that mine. At
one period the shareholders divided annually 800 per cent. on
their £5 shares. Their Bank account, however, absorbed a large
amount of capital; at one period it was overdrawn about £72,000,
as they calculated on the value of the ore as soon as it was raised
to the surface at the mine, but before it could be shipped to
England and bills drawn against it. The Bank Directors in
London objected strongly to this, and even suggested more than
once that the accounts had better be closed. I, however, feeling
how very prejudicial to the interests of the Bank such a course
would be, and having visited the mine and satisfied myself as
to its great value, took the responsibility of continuing the
account—the Burra Directors having engaged on my representation
gradually to diminish the overdraft to a moderate amount.
I felt quite convinced of the correctness of the views entertained
by the London Board, as no single establishment should absorb so
large a proportion of the capital allotted to each branch.
// 051.png
.pn +1

There were also a few mercantile accounts the advances to
which the London Board objected as being too large, and they
appeared to think that I was not sufficiently cautious in conducting
their business, although they had sustained no losses, and
their business had been quadrupled. Some irregularity had also
occurred in the office, and I was offered the option of removing to
some other branch or receiving compensation on resigning, but
was requested to remain at the Bank for some time in order to
aid my successor until he became acquainted with the customers
and the nature of their transactions. I remained for some time,
but no other branch becoming vacant, and being also unwilling to
leave South Australia, I accepted compensation and retired.

Some time afterwards, having sold a property in Western
Australia for £3,000, I agreed to join in a mercantile business with
a gentleman connected with my family. On this becoming known
to Mr. John Ellis, he very handsomely and spontaneously presented
me with a letter of credit for £5,000 on the wealthy firm of Morrisson
& Co., of London; and Mr. G. S. Walters, in a similar manner,
introduced me to his father-in-law, Mr. Frederick Huth, of the
great firm of Frederick Huth & Co., of London, who opened credits
for the new firm with their several correspondents at Mauritius,
Calcutta, Bombay, Ceylon, Singapore, and China, for £2,000 each.
The business was thus commenced with a fair prospect, but not
proving very successful after a trial of a few years, I retired from
the firm.

In the year 1855 the second mixed Legislative Council, of
nominated and elected members, assembled. I had offered myself
as a candidate to represent the District of Willunga, in this
Council, but after a close contest was defeated. The Governor,
Sir Richard MacDonnell, however, immediately offered to nominate
me to a seat, at the same time stating that I was not to consider
myself bound in the slightest degree to support any Government
measure which I did not approve. I accepted this offer and
took my seat in that Council, which elected me in the
// 052.png
.pn +1
following November to the honourable position of Chairman
of Committees.

At this time the citizens of Adelaide obtained their supplies of
water from the River Torrens, which was subject to pollution, and
the cartage was inconvenient and expensive. Complaints were
numerous, and the Government introduced a Bill for constructing
water-works at a cost of £280,000. This amount was so large that
the Council did not believe the Government was serious, and at the
second reading the Chairman of Committees read some eighty
clauses <i>seriatim</i>, with scarcely a remark from any members. The
Bill was finally passed, and has proved a most beneficial measure.

On the dissolution of this mixed Council (elective and nominated)
on which had devolved the passing of the Constitution Act in 1857,
I was elected to represent the District of Flinders, and took my
seat in the Legislative Assembly, under the new responsible
Government, consisting of five members,—namely, Chief Secretary,
Attorney-General, Treasurer, Commissioner of Crown Lands, and
Commissioner of Public Works.

I offered myself as a candidate for the office of Speaker of the
House of Assembly in the year 1857, but was unsuccessful. In
the following month of September I was invited to join the
Ministry of Mr. (now Sir) R. R. Torrens, and became Commissioner
of Crown Lands. This Ministry lasted, however, but a short time,
and was succeeded by that formed by the present Sir R. D. Hanson.
The “Constitution Act” was passed during this session of Parliament.
Some of its clauses were objected to by me, chiefly that
relating to universal suffrage, on the ground that intelligent votes
could not be given by those who could neither read or write. I
succeeded, however, in introducing a clause requiring a fixed
residence of six months (twelve months were proposed) to qualify
for voting.

In the year 1859 I was appointed as a Special Magistrate under
the “Local Courts Act”—first, to preside in the Local Courts at
Willunga and Morphett Vale, and afterwards at those in the
// 053.png
.pn +1
Northern Districts, namely, at Redruth, Clare, Auburn, and
Riverton. I continued to perform those duties for upwards of ten
years, and on the amalgamation of two districts I retired, receiving
the usual retiring allowance.

On this occasion I was much gratified by receiving two flattering
addresses, one from the members of the bar practising in the
Northern Courts, the other signed by all the Magistrates of the
District and numerous other residents. This last was beautifully
illuminated and engrossed on vellum.

Having served over twenty-two years in His Majesty’s army;
six years farming in a new settlement (Western Australia);
seventeen years as a Bank manager; three years as a merchant;
four years in Parliament, during which I held office in the Ministry
for a short time; and lastly, over ten years administering the laws
in Local Courts—my career may be fairly considered as long and
varied. Having arrived at an old age, I may now rest from my
labours, trusting to the atoning merits of a merciful Redeemer,
the Lord Jesus Christ, for an eternal rest hereafter.
.sp 2
.rj
MARSHALL MACDERMOTT.
.sp 4
.hr 50%
.nf c
<s>William Kyffin Thomas, Printer, Grenfell-street, Adelaide.</s>
.nf-
.sp 2
.pb
\_ // this gets the sp 4 recognized.
.sp 2
.dv class=tnbox // TN box start
.ul
.it Transcriber’s Notes:
.ul indent=1
.it Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.
.it Typographical errors were silently corrected.
.it Two errata were applied to the text.
.ul indent=1
.it <sc>Page 5</sc>, line 28.–For “Gulf of Causo” read “Gut of Causo.”
.it <sc>Page 16</sc>, line 2.–For “Montreal” read “Montreuil.”
.ul-
.it Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a\
predominant form was found in this book.
.if t
.it Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_).
.if-
.ul-
.ul-
.dv-      // TN box end